Dutchman

Window has been cut, sanded and installed. It fits perfectly on the top but the bottom end has tiny gap between window frame and planks...
 Little bit of glue was applied around the frame to keep it in the spot.. and piece of scotch tap was applied over to protect it during work process on other parts of the ship.
 

Few planks were installed... They are long enough to leave some extras for trimming at the stern..
 



Happy modelling.
 
 
 

Hi all,
 
A small update on the construction of the Hermione. While measuring the gun ports I found out that I've been a bit too enthusiastic about cutting out the gun ports. I had to repair 2 gun ports on the port side.
Fortunately, you won't see anything here once the hull is painted.

After some sanding, the hull looks a lot better



On pictures of Hermione I saw that the first deck is supported by hanging knees, which looks a lot more realistic.

Decided to remove the bulk heads and replace them for hanging knee pieces.

With a half-wood L joint I can cut out the hanging knees properly.

Now that I've finished the template for the hanging knee I can do all the knee pieces at once.


After applying a layer of black primer and the first layer of red paint.

In the meantime, I applied a layer of filler to the hull and sanded it.


More filler and sanding

The sanding dust has yet to be removed but the hull is ready to be painted.

That's all for now.
 
Stay safe and well,
 
Peter
 
 
 

Since I have been building for 4 weeks I will give a short impression until today, then I will try to keep the build log more up to date.
 
Dry fitting of al the part, no problems appeared
 
started to glue all the bulkheads in place.

Didn't had a smaller clamp but it's working fine

The parts at the stern.

At the bow

The stiffeners in place                                                                                                                                                      Dry fit of the gun deck after adjustments

Gun deck is planked and main deck  adjusted.

Finally started to fit the first planking

Forgot to make some pictures during planking. First eight strakes from the wale up to the bulwark on both sides, also the gun ports cut out.


Rubber bands to keep the stern castle in place while the glue dries

I just finished planking and found out that I forgot to take pictures again. The stem, false keel and stern post are fitted and glued in place.

 
Made some adjustments on the hull for placement of the ornaments under the quarter gallery .

Ornaments held in place with double-folded masking tape

 
 

So far the update,
 
Stay safe and well
 
Peter
 
 
 
 

Hi all,
 
About a month ago I received the construction kit for my second ship by post. I finished my first ship, the President Scale 1:60 Sergal kit, for about two months now and couldn't wait to start a new ship. After some searching I finally chose the frigate "L 'Hermione La Fayette". Although I would normally not choose to fully paint the hull,  in this case I think it has something. Due to my enthusiasm while building, I  forget to open a ship build log, but, better late than never!

What's in the box!
Unfortunately no 1: 1 drawing for the exact measurements
T
Everything is neatly packed

Sails
After checking the parts, it appears that a strip of 6x6 mm is missing, luckily there was still one left from my previous ship.
 
Music in the background, on your marks, let the build begin!  😄
 
 
 

The window frame was cut, sanded and assembled on the model. Window is then protected with a scotch tape..

The wale was next, it consists of two piece of veneer for both ship sides. It is laser cut but still does require very slight sanding on edges which is absolutely not a problem at all. 🙂


Just for fun, first i applied glue on the hull instead of wale..

And wale is attached, no issues here. All fits perfectly... Started from bow and made my way back...

And the port side first plank was applied.

Tomorrow will continue planking using hot iron technique to see how that does..
 
Happy modelling.
 
 
 
 
 

Finally after a long couple of years I can say that this model is done. The only thing left to do is to add a few more rope coils. Here are the final pictures:

Continuing working on inner frames for gun openings... moulding were cut in 9mm length, glue applied on the frame and veneer piece pushed in. Then i sanded all parts that are sticking out and made them flush with the outside planking. Few more to go... i did not work on inner edges yet..

A bit of a work happened on stern as well.. Area previously filled with wood putty was sanded and ready... Veneer part was sanded lightly and glued on the stern..

Windows were cut of and sanded lightly...

.. installed in the window openings..

Even dough i have applied a minimum amount of glue around windows, some glue leaked out and cured showing some discoloration on the veneer. So i run a tiny layer of black paint all over the piece. Still need to protect window frames and finish painting.. this is for today

Hopefully this will correct glue issue. Now i will paint all black veneer pieces so they all matches....
 
Happy modelling.
 
 
 

The place where rudder will be mounted, has to be painted in black...

Then i start adding frames to the cannon openings; using miter cut tool..
.. i cut 6 frames/mouldings that will be going on first. I happened to have this tool but forgot about it hiding it during my last workshop cleanup; any cutting tool will do the job, no problem.

Installed..

All 6 were put in place.. A little bit of moulding shaping is required to make it fit nicely. After gluing it, i sanded it with the hull..

Happy modelling.
 

Progress.
 
As my ship fell down on stern when sanding the alignment in stern isnt what it should be. Photo etched decoration has lower corners little sticking out etc. 
thought about possible solutions but didnt have any to make it better so i kept it. To be honest tou probably will notice it if tou dont raise the ship and look from bottom.
 
Railing done. Seems one part should be little more over bulkwark. Have to find a jig for buture build.
 
Laser cut part where rudder comes out....i broke it....agan broke the new one i made also.....
 
How to get little moro color for sanded pear(similar to bulkwarks)-danish oil or varnish will do the trick?

interesting is that on the pictures the faults seem worse...they are much better real life

Like promised here are pictures from morning without tapes.
 
Whats the difference between ca and normal super glue?

Hi
 
Decided to open a new blog for 3rd ongoing build-i hope no hard feelings from oldtimers as newbie hasnt finished any but allready has 3rd ongoing plus pile waiting to be started.
 
As my Cruiser and Terror are waiting for parts i started MK Polotsk that was waiting for its time, guess that time arrived. 
 
My Polotsk is Plus version with pearwood planking.
 
I chose MK Polotsk due to really positive feedback regarding laser cut part and instructions as it goes together like Lego cause allmost everything is laser cut and requires little or no sanding.
I have to admit during the build hours i have smile on my face and im truly impressed about the engineering work behind it.

Some points;
1) Hull has building template with a lot of holes. Everything fits there nicely.
2) Bulkwark have markings where to sand a after putting it together little extra sanding was needed.
3) All planking os laser cut and fits perfectly. 2nd planking is oearwood and black is ebony.
4) Deck planks (from one piece) and waterways are precut but needed adjustment to fit perfectly.
5) Level of detail is really high but it will also make the parts really fragilr and easy to break.
 
I had an accident also where i dropped the boat during sanding and i lt fell on stern gunport bulkwark corner. A lot of glue and clamps was used to het it into near shape. Therefore i have some deciations with mesaurements in that part. Nothing that eye will really catch if you dont know to look for it.
 
Below you can see progress. I have basicly finished planking on one side-last plank needs to be adjusted according to keel.
 
For 2nd planking i started with pva and ca but wasnt happy with result as edges were rounded up. It came to my mind that i had alplic rapid glue from Cronwall. Didnt use that before vause it had yellow look. This time i took the risk. I have to say best glue so far. Graps quick and you have enough time for adjustments. This means you can plank as much as you want.

For last i have to say that detail of the ship is super-laser has done its job!
Only real issue is that it ahould be bigger. I will definitely run into problems with smaller details but will try to keep the quality up.
 
Defenitely will order more kits from Master Korabel, probably Phoenix and others that they have on line dor future years.
 
 
 

Planking process continues.. this time plank was cut in half on purpose since some shaping, sanding, test fitting, sanding, etc will be needed on both ends.


It does not follow the proper planking techniques but since it is a first layer i think i can get away with it..

First plank layer has been completed; now the fun part begins...
 
A bit of a scraping..

Then lots of sanding with different grit number..




Now i need to fill up those holes and spaces with wood filler to make it as smooth as possible for second planking layer..
 
Happy modelling.
 
 
 

After a long time There is one small update. Unfortunately there is no free time to spent on AVOS these days but today I have received the Glass display. (so to do list is again little longer). At least one picture under the cover 

All pins are now equiped with coils..... So I can move to cleats. 

And few overview pictures. 

While waiting for this virus outbreak to leave us alone, continue making eye bolts...
 
First the spring was made out 0.3mm wire, using 0.9mm drill bit..
 

Then rings were cut out of it, one at a time since i dont have small enough wire cutters to cut few of them at once..
 

The flakes of solder were cut as well...
 

Small amount of soldering paste was applied to ring and, lets call it a leg, was positioned in such a way so it touches the ring, in the place where the ring circle is closing.. and tiny piece of soldering flake was added to..
 

And soldering can start, small amount of flame, kind of easy cooking process..
 

The end result...
 

For next batch of eye bolts, i prepared a small assembly line: several eye bolts lined up, ready to be solder....
 

Sometimes that small solder flake just does not want to stay put... second eye bolt needs resoldering..
 

Then i decided to make a soldering balls out of solder flakes, just to make it a bit more fun..
 

The assembly line does not change a lot..
 

Completed eyebolts and parts waiting for assembly..
 

These sets of eyebolts will be used to attach the cannon rope to the ship... the smaller eyebolts will be attached to the cannons....
 
All cannons completed and waiting for a rope...
 

Happy modeling..
 
 
 

Still waiting for ropes to arrive, so in the meantime, i continue to add a few more details to the gun carriage...
 
Simple made a pilot holes first, drill a hole and insert a piece of a wire, cut the extend and push it in with opposite end of scalpel holder.
 
Pilot holes and holes drilled..



During this process, accident could happen... pressing to hard with a scalpel holder and snap...
 


But it can be fixed correctly..

All cannons completed. Next will add a small eyebolt, train tackle loop.

Happy modeling.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Little pins were made and ready for installation.
 
First i made a pilot hole with a needle in the carriage. Then drilled a hole, 0.45mm with Proxxon and pushed pins in.
The final adjustment push was done with opposite end of the surgical scalpel as it has kind of triangular end, small enough to push the pin in without damaging the wood..
 

During the hole drilling process the drill leaves a tiny marks that was corrected with touch of oil, the same one used to cover the carriage..
On the above photo, it is a shinier part of carriage that has a new oil layer..
 

This is a "brush" used to apply oil: piece of bounty hold in tweezers.. Very sophisticated..
 
And all 12 cannons completed...
 

I have ordered a new rigging ropes; the ropes are on its way so will continue with cannons once ropes arrive..
 
Happy modeling.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Managed to cover all cannons with a layer of oil...
 

Before and after

I will be adding additional pins to make the carriage a bit more interesting. For that i used 0.4mm wire, cut in 3mm length and decided to round the wire top so it does not look uncompleted, with cutting marks, etc.
For that i use a small concave bur that will, hopefully do the clean up job...

And the pin...

It looks nice and clean.
 
Continue making these little pins..
 
Happy modeling.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

All cannons were assembled. Here are some stages of the assembly process...
 
First i worked on axles, shaping them to accept trucks.

Then all capsquare were simulated with a black paint.

The left side bracket was attached..
 


Guns were next and right brackets were attached..

All 12 of them waiting for an oil layer...
 

Happy modeling.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Not much to report, continue working on cannons; glued all eyebolts and rings...

and after sanding, dry fitting and some other small adjustments, assembled two cannons..
 
They are tiny and took me appr 30min for each...
 

Next, will put a layer of oil on them...
 
Happy modeling.
 
 
 
 
 

@yvesvidal, thank you. I really appreciate it!
 
It is first time I'm doing this (I made a few hulls but never got to this stage). Coils will take some time but it is worth sending time and make it! Anyway I really like how it is turning out. 
 
Starting equip bow section..... 
 

The cannons are treated with a graphite powder between my fingers. This provides a bit more realistic look...
Top cannon treated and bottom not.

Then the wheel axle has to be rounded to accept the wheels..
 

The wheel mounted..
 

All parts has to be filled a bit to fit without effort; they are very breakable and tiny..
 

 
 

And assembled gun:
 



Now need to rotate a ring and eyebolt on right hand side so the rope can fit correctly..
Next i need to cover it with a small layer of danish oil, install nail simulation, etc.
 
Happy modeling.
 
 
 

The eyebolts and rings have been completed.
 
Now i started cleaning up laser burns...
 

Next, painting tiny "metal" plates was completed.
 

And all other cannon parts were cut..
 

Next will be cleaning up laser burns...
 
Happy modeling..
 
 
 
 
 
 

Now i am working on rings that will be inserted into eyebolts. The wire was cleaned with sand paper to make blackening process successful.
 
First i make a spring using special tool, instead of a drill bit.
The smallest diameter is 1.5mm which is perfect for rings that will be used on these cannons. Total of 30 rings are made, 24 for cannons and few extras..

Next, i am making soldering flakes that will be used to solder rings. The small pieces of soldering wire were cut and flattened by squeezing them with pliers.
Sorry, not quite clear picture...
 

Then the flake is cut into 4 pieces; no need to use the whole flake for one ring, too much solder...
 
The ring is placed into position..
 

Small but very small amount of soldering paste was applied to the joint and flake quarter was put on.
 

Soldering was done with flame using pen torch tool. A bit of filing might be needed to clean the ring.
 

And 21 more to go...

Completed 20 yesterday, today will continue with rest of them and will finish up with blackening...
 
Time consuming work that will sharpen up your patience..
 
Happy modeling.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Yards have been formed and then prepared with a  pass of cellulose sealer and then had a fine sanding with a 240 and 320 sandpaper. After that two passes of black acrylic vallejo paint did the miracle.
 
After drying the yards were equipped with their fine quality  double and triple blocks from Syren Model ship Co.