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etsinko

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    etsinko

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    Calgary, Canada

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  1. I think I used 0.6mm thread for the breaching ropes and for rings, I made my own using 1.5mm (I think) drill bit.
  2. I noticed extra blocks in the videos too. But for my model I decided to go just with the breaching ropes only.
  3. 23. Finally I moved to installing the chainplates. First, I installed all deadeyes into the chainplates and carefully positioned them in the channels. I used green painter's tape to mark their angles: Then I spent quite a lot of time adjusting the chainplates on each side to make them symmetrical: When I was finally satisfied with their positions, I drilled the holes and inserted nails: 24. Next I installed the ship's boat on the keelblocks. I used some sailcloth to simulate a furled sail: 25. Then anchors were installed (I haven't lashed them to the knightheads just yet, will do it once bowsprit is rigged). I used heatshrink to simulate bands on the anchor stock:
  4. I'm finally back from my long break and begin to continue working on my model of Polotsk. I'm getting back into it slowly hence there is not too much progress so far. All that is left before rigging and masting can begin is to assemble and install the cannons, install and rig the tiller, the binnacle, the anchors, the boat, the chainplates and some other little things on the deck. 21. Getting cannons assembled was very easy but super boring. There are 12 of them altogether and it was very repetitive. I needed to make and install 48 jump rings into 48 eyebolts. First I built carriages and tied breeching ropes to cascables: Then I seized two eyebolts into the breeching ropes: And using a simple jig tightened and adjusted seizings so they are all of the same length: No other cannon tackles were used on this model, so the cannons finally could be installed on the model. Here, I only glued the eyebolts into the bulwark without attaching the cannons to the deck, I will glue them to the deck once the chainplates are installed. Also, in this picture you can see anchor cable being laid down: 22. Then I rigged the tiller and installed the binnacle and the skylight:
  5. SpyGlass, please take a look at Vikulaev's video. He shows how to assemble these pumps easily. There are english subtitles for this video.
  6. SpyGlass, When you build the pumps, I recommend soldering handle supports (the ones that consist of two folded photoetched brass parts). I have built three sets of these pumps and gluing brass to brass was nightmare. Soldering makes everything easy and the end result is so much better.
  7. For sure, he is a talented presenter and his videos are very educational and inspiring. I'm happy to help him extend his audience
  8. The first 13 Phoenix videos now have English subtitles (actually, first 3 don't have any, because there is no voiceover in them). The rest of them are coming soon.
  9. The second Avos video now also has subtitles. I'm wondering if there are any other Vikulaev's videos that people want subtitles for.
  10. Tender Avos review video now has proper English subtitles without funny nonsense like "I do not hesitate can not be". Eventually more Vikulaev's videos will have subtitles.
  11. 18. I patiently continued chugging along and adding more and more details... The mast bitts, the windass, the smokestack, the channels, the belaying pin racks. I also carved and installed 16 knight heads. Thankfully those came laser cut and minimal carving required to finish them: 19. I really liked working on the head decorations. The kit included a lot of details including two "sailors' thrones"! All parts were laser cut and were pretty easy to install and minimal sanding was required. All decorations were made of photoetched brass: 20. Finally all hull details were complete and I switched to spars. Altogether there were 15 spars including a couple of flagpoles - reasonable amount. Most of the spars came as laser cut parts and required rounding. I used a mini plane to make them octogonal and then sanded them further down. Some spars had pretty complex shapes: Yards were pretty detailed for such scale: Each crosstree consisted of 6 lasercut parts: And this is where I stand right now. All that is left is to assemble 12 cannons, rig and install them and then rig the ship. I will continue posting my progress here as it comes along.
  12. SpyGlass, this technique works for veneer (less than 1mm thick). With thicker planks there is not enough time for heat to get glue boiling before the other side of the plank begins to smoke. Yes, try with scrap first. That is how I learned it. It is a great technique and you'll find it handy!
  13. SpyGlass, The idea behind gluing with hot iron is that when you heat up PVA glue it melts and as soon as you stop applying heat it solidifies very quickly (~ 5 - 10 seconds). The benefit of this is that this can be repeated multiple times. 1. I dryfit the plank, make sure that it fits nicely where it supposed to go 2. I apply PVA glue (I'm using Weldbond white PVA glue) on the back side of plank and make sure to spread it with a toothpick so it covers the whole plank consistently Really, the beauty of this method is that there is no rush, glue can dry but it won't stop it from melting and gluing. So you can take your time here and make sure that everything is covered. This is how it looks like when covered whith glue (actually this is a bit too much): 3. I usually wait until the glue is tacky and then begin to put the plank on the hull. I start from the bow and put the plank as close as possible to the stem and to the previous strake. Just lay it out along the hull trying fit it properly (its ok if it is not a perfect fit) 4. Then I apply the tip of the hot iron to the plank where it touches the bow. I move it back and forth a little and press it slightly. Really like ironing linens. The goal here is to get the plank glued to the bow section so you have starting point. 5. After a few seconds (depends on how hot your iron is) the glue will melt and you can start pushing the plank with your fingers. I try to get it as close as possible to the stem and to the previous strake. You'll have about 5 seconds to do that. If glue dries before you finished you can apply heat again 6. Once I'm happy with how fore section turned out, I continue to work in ~ 2" sections: heat up, push the plank towards the previous strake and wait till it's dry 7. After the plank has been glued, I check the whole strake for gaps. If I see them, I apply the tip of hot iron and push the plank again 8. Finally, I look at the open end of the plank (the side that is opposite from the previous strake) and if I see any gaps, I just heat them up and push down with fingers And that's it! Another good thing about this method is that you can use an iron to remove a plank as well! Just start from the stern and move in short sections heating the plank up and lifting it with a tip of a knife. As for the temperature. I crank my iron to the max, but it is probably an overkill. You can practice on scrap veneer and see what works for you Hope this helps!
  14. 15. Next I assembled the rudder and the pintles: Glued the horseshoe to the keel: 16. After applying a layer of wipe-on-poly to the hull I glued brass decorative details to the taffrail and installed the rudder: 17. Next I decided to spend some time assembling all the deck details. They are done as a small kits included with the ship and were easy to assemble. The capstan: The pumps. The manual suggests gluing the metal handles with some BF-2 glue. I couldn't finds this glue in Canada. I think this is some special glue that can only be bought in Russia. I tried gluing them with CA glue but it doesn't hold brass. In the end I decided to solder them and the result was phenomenal. I highly recommend soldering brass parts instead of gluing them! The binnacle: Finally I assembled the hatches and the grates. I used aftermarket lasercut grates which have 0.6mm square openings. I think these are much better for this scale: 18. Then I installed catheads and some decorative elements in the ship's head:

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