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    Calgary, Canada

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  1. I had similar problem. After adding all veneer layers to the counter its curvature slightly changed. Maybe this will help you, but this is what I did when I was gluing it to the hull. I mostly used PVA glue with a couple dabs of thick CA glue near the edges where there were gaps between the hull and the counter. Then I pressed it firmly to so the counter conformed to the curvature of the hull and held it until CA glue dried. This worked and the counter was "persuaded" to maintain the shape and, more importantly, stayed attached to the hull.
  2. Looks great! Next step was the most difficult for me - getting the wales match the counter in the back. Just go slowly there and you'll be fine!
  3. Ben, Using iron is a special secret of these Russian kits! It makes the whole process so much easier and cleaner.
  4. Hi Ben, I like that you used pearwood inserts around the oar and gun ports. This is the only thing I regret not doing when building Avos.
  5. The work continued. Here came the most dreaded part for me - sails... Previously when building MK kits I always used the sails they provided. Their sails are pretty good quality, the only thing that always bothered me was that the boltrope was always too thick for the scale and it looked fluffy and not too neat. I heard that some builders use this material called Silkspan and decided to give it a try. I was really surprised by its looks when I finally bought it. It really looked like 1-ply toilet paper to me, very thin and transparent. And on top of that I had no idea how to make it look
  6. We finally have 7mm blocks from Master Korabel. These are the most detailed blocks on the market 7mm (9/32") Single blocks VIEW 7mm (9/32") Double Blocks VIEW
  7. So, the work continues... Once the hull was done I switched my attention to making the remaining yards and the mast. This is a small model, so there is only a handful of spars: boom, gaff, bowsprit, spreadsail yard, topsail yard, mast and topmast. I have already made the bowsprit earlier, so only 6 spars were left to do. The workflow I follow for making them is always the same: 1. I narrow down the part (by sanding the part so It has square cross section everywhere): 2. Then I use a mini-plane and cut off the edges of the part to make it
  8. We've got all of them If you never built one, let me know and I'll help you choose.
  9. 13. The work continued with the rest of the deck fittings. Pin rails, cleats and the sail traveller: Tiller and its tackle: Windlass, anchors and anchor ropes: After most of the fitting were installed, I proceeded to assemble cannon carriages and cannon breech ropes. I used a very simple jig to prepare breach ropes. It is a small board with a few holes drilled into it and a rubber band on top. To make breech ropes I first attach a longer piece of rope to the cannon and then insert it under the rubber band:
  10. Thank you! This kit is really of excellent quality and because of that a lot of usual planking issues are avoided.
  11. 11. Before starting work on hatches I finished up some details on the keel. In the stern: And the horseshoe in the bow: 12. Once the hull was all done I switched to making all hatches, gratings and the companionway. I used an aftermarket lasercut grating instead of the kit provided one. I think they look much better at this scale: Once all these little parts were built I added hinges, handles and eyebolts: After that I attached all the cleats and the eyebol
  12. Finally we have Alexey Vikulaev's beautiful ropes in stock! Black Rope (0.25mm - 0.65mm) Handmade black ropes for standing rigging Length of each spool is 21 feet (6.5 meters) These ropes are made of 100% polyester Gutermann Skala 360 thread All black ropes are 3-stranded left handed VIEW Tan Rope (0.25mm - 0.9mm) Handmade tan rope for running rigging Length of each spool is 21 feet (6.5 meters) These ropes are made of 100% polyester G
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