garyshipwright

Thanks every one and those folks for there likes. I have got the stove further along and do think  I have come close to the cast iron look, at least as close as my skill will let me. Well back to work on her gun deck guys. Here is some updated photo's guys, and Mr Jones finally got a paint job along with the stove. Some were he seem to have picked up a slop bucket. Now I wonder where he got that from. Thanks again guy's.
 
Gary

Thanks Michael, Pat and Alex. Well good sirs other then pot's and pan's the stove it complete, accept for the  stack. I finally added the pully's and chain, for the pit, which was just a little touche. Most of the new parts are made out of metal accept for the pulley's which are wood. Couldn't find any brass round stock big enough. Well back to the pump's. Gary

Thanks every one and those folks for there likes. I have got the stove further along and do think  I have come close to the cast iron look, at least as close as my skill will let me. Well back to work on her gun deck guys. Here is some updated photo's guys, and Mr Jones finally got a paint job along with the stove. Some were he seem to have picked up a slop bucket. Now I wonder where he got that from. Thanks again guy's.
 
Gary

Well guys, I got to finally do some cooking and if any one has a pig, bring it on over and we can have a roast. Only kidding but finally have Alfred stove just about finished. Been working on it for a couple of days and has been a lot of fun. Its built of copper and brass, and a few pieces of plastic and wood thrown in to the mix. Still have to put the  bar around it and finish the stack. A couple of the items, probably will get replace, such as the pot holder's and in the mean time will have to make some pot's and pans. Don't be to hard guys and still need a lot of work on it.   Also have to figure out how am going to get that cast iron look so if any of you have any ideal's on how to do this, let me know, would you please. Just to let you know there was a few items that came from Chuck's photo etch set which came in real handy, so thank you Chuck. Enjoy the photo's guy's.
 
Gary 

Thanks every one and those folks for there likes. I have got the stove further along and do think  I have come close to the cast iron look, at least as close as my skill will let me. Well back to work on her gun deck guys. Here is some updated photo's guys, and Mr Jones finally got a paint job along with the stove. Some were he seem to have picked up a slop bucket. Now I wonder where he got that from. Thanks again guy's.
 
Gary

Hi Michael. I have been going through your log for the last couple of days sir and must say that your metal and wood working are outstanding and top notch. It does seem that you have a very good relationship not only with wood but with metal which am still working my way through it. Will be keeping a eye on you log sir and have already learned a thing of two that should come in handy for Alfred. Have enjoyed your log very very much, and look forward to more updates. Gary 

Deck Fittings part 1
 
While waiting for caulking glue to dry, I unraveled some copper ground wire pulled it through the draw plate for the correct diameter to thread 0x80?
I spent some time bending up some deck eye bolts. These are going to receive rings as well. There will be a few sizes from 1 inch to 2 inch OD in scale
 

 

 

 
When they are all made they will be silver soldered.
 
Michael
 
 

Cabin Structure part 10
 
This series of pictures shows the laying of the long planks and the inserts of the "Screw Plugs"
 
The first picture shows the planks glued to the beams after they have been drilled with an .048" drill which is close to a 3/8th scale screw plug. a 3/64th would have been more accurate which is .046875" I can live with it.
 

 
Close up of the caulking rabbet
 

 
The first plugs glued in.
 

 
After the glue had set the dowels were cut off with an exacto saw blade proud of the plank surface.
 

 
The plug was then pared down with a very sharp chisel.
 

 

 
The rest of the plugs setting up.
 

 
The next part will cover the companionway and slide logs.
 
Michael
 
 

Thanks for the compliments Elmer , and Crackers.
 
I have been thinking about my build entries and like the style that Ed Tosti uses for his entries so I am going to see how it works from here on the numbers are starting at number nine because I have made 8 posts recently regarding the cabin structure. I will follow a similar pattern for different areas in the future.
 
Cabin Structure. part 9
 
After gluing up the sides and beams I noticed that I had not done as good a job making the beams line up on the top profile and this caused a problem with the gluing of the planks. My solution was to sand down the sides and ends to match the middle beams rather than removing the beams. this then ensured that all the curved surfaces were identical.
 
I made a long sander with some 220 grit and carpet tape strip of oak.
 
 

 
I used the narrow side first then the wide side to finish, i did not see the need to go any finer than the 220 grit because all the surfaces will be covered with glue and other wood.
 

 
This allowed me to set some new pine strips that were all the same thickness as the fir planks. These strips were glued to the perimeter and across the separation beam.
 

 

 
The fir planks will be pre drilled for the "screw plugs" (small dowels) before being glued to the top then the dowels and caulking before fitting the companion way slide logs and hatch.
 
Michael
 

Sherry, thanks for your kind words.
 
John, thanks yes I think I will get a round tuit.
 
I had to rearrange the workshop again today, I was bumping the build table every time I used the mill, and I was walking round it too much to do any other work. so basically I have just swapped the build and work tables positions and kept them lengthwise in the shop.
 

 

 
This arrangement will work better I think.
 
Today I thought for a change of pace I would try a cleat the model one is 1 inch long which equates to an 8 inch cleat in scale. I modeled it roughly on the one in the background.
 

 
Thinking about the complexity of the shape and realizing that the most complicated area to make is the underside I tackled it while it was still part of the 1 inch bar
 

 
First the lower sections were cut off with the jewelers saw,then the bottom sides were filed with a couple of needle files  then the wings were tapered with a flat file and given a wire wheel treatment. which makes it look a bit like a casting.
 

 
Next the top curve was cut with the jewelers saw to remove the cleat from the stock.
 

 
Then a couple of .011" counter bores down .050 and then drilled through with a .067" drill some # 1 round headed wood screws were reworked on the lathe to make them a facsimile of a domed cheese head screw. and the cleat cleaned up with files and emery first 220 then 320 then 600 a final polishing with a bit of steel wool.
 

 
Mounted it on the deck, and cleated the tackle for the bob stay. then coiled the rope without any glue or other means, one of the beauties of working rigging.
 

 

 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 

John, if you do eventually get here, there are some great views in the Rockies not too far from here just three hours away. and we do have a spare room.
 
Joe thanks for the kind words.
 
well the bowsprit shrouds were a bit more fiddly than I thought they would be, Had to make a few more thimbles and shackles
 
I decided on the dark rope for the shrouds and a light rope for the tackle.
 

 

 

 

 

 
I need to make some cleats now so that I can tie ropes and lines off better, just need to sort out where to put them and what type to make, they will probably be brass.
 
Michael

John I'm retired
 
This evening after supper I finished off the rough fitting of the grating in the bottom of the cockpit. it still needs the edge wood and I'm not sure yet whether to use a contrasting wood or to go with some more of the Yellow Cedar that the grating is made of.
 
I cut a slab of 3/4 x 3 1/2" yellow cedar from a 4x4 of it that i have had for a while now.
 

 
Then stripped it up into some scale 1 1/4 inch thick boards and made a couple of passes to create the square stock and the wider stock was milled with a "19 modified twist drill into an end mill The drill is .166" diameter this gave a nice snug fit to the square stock when it was assembled.
 

 
checking the size to mark out for sanding.
 

 
next the assembly was rough sanded to fit into the cockpit on the disk sander.
 

 
Michael
 
 
 

John, thanks.
Popeye, glad you are finding it interesting.
Joe, thanks it seems that sharing how we do things is what makes this site so enjoyable, i have learned so much from all the great work and Ideas that make up the bulk of the posts here on this forum.
Bob, yes answering those questions seems to be a never ending task.
 
Today I did some major reorganizing of the shop, and finally got the pilot cutter off the floor, and opened up some room to work on both models;>)
 

 

 

 

 
Then this evening I redid the block set up at the end of the bowsprit I used a new twisted shackle and a single block with a becket for the arrangement. I glued the rail posts and knees down to the deck at the base of the mast. It is so much easier working on the deck hardware and woodwork at desk height.
 
Michael
 
 

John yes that would be a problem.
 
today I made a new eye-bolt for the mast for the topping lift. and added the small block.
 
Also made a .156 mill bit for slotting the inside of the block shell cheeks, basically I snapped of the bottom part of a .156 drill bit and reground it on the bench grinder it works like a charm.
 

 
Also today I worked on a jig to create the small curve at the bend of the metal frame of the block, I basically used the same method as for the thimbles for the eye-slices.
 
I cut a slice of 1/8th gauge plate and filed it smooth then rounded the end and filed in a small groove using a needle file.
 
Next I bent some 1/8th diameter hard steel rod (heated it to cherry red) into a sort of hook and attached a handle so that I could keep my fingers away from the hammer.
 

 

 
After removing from the form.
 

 
I did anneal the very middle section before bending it to fit over the form
 

 
The new 6 inch block I made today with maple, I like the look of it as much as the apple and I have lots of strips of maple so I will probably use it for the rest of the blocks.
 
Michael
 
 
 

Matt missed you on the last post sorry about that.
 
Daniel, John, Russ, and Druxey, thanks for all you kind words, at the rate I'm going I sometimes wonder when it will get to the lake.
 
Today I managed to get enough time in to make a double block with a Becket. The sheaves are .375 diameter and the axle is .062, the brass is .125 x .031
I remembered a quote that one should treat every part as model in itself and this seems to work well for me.
 

 
Machined up a block of Degame (lemon-wood)
 

 

 

 
Did a lot of sanding and finishing with some fine steel wool. Made a pin for the Becket. the ring is .011 music wire.
 

 

 
Set it up on the mast with the other double block to see how it looks for the Gaff up-haul, I just used the weight from the ropewalk to give some body to the rope. I must finish those seizings on the shrouds.
 

 
The blocks work well together, this is a lot of fun, I need to get on and finish the gaff now, and of course there will be a few more blocks but the next few will be singles.
 
Michael

Bob, I am really looking forward to getting her wet.
 
I did manage to do a little work yesterday and today, I worked on the Jib stay, I might just sew this into the sail and have it fly and not hank it to a stay
 

 
I made a thimble for the 1/16th cable first I filed a couple of grooves at each end I annealed the centre part only and shaped the thimble using the same tools and methods as before
 

 

 
At the moment it is attached to the bowsprit end cap but it will be attached to a traveler on the bowsprit, so that it can be hauled it to change sheets.
 

 
Started working on the Gaff, by planing down a square of spruce to a tapered round section
 

 
This evening I spent a couple of hours making one of the blocks for the gaff up-haul
 

 
Michael

Daniel thanks for the kind words.
 
Druxey, thanks yes it feels good to finally have solved this one.
 
Bob thanks, it was a bit more difficult to work with than I anticipated.
 
John thanks again for all your encouragement and critical support.
 
Today I finished seizing the other three shrouds, and I realized that I did not want the forstaye to lay on top of the shrouds. there are some great drawings in the book "The Gaff Rig" by John Leather ISBN 0 229 97489 9 published by Adlard Coles Limited. That show some different variations on Cranes for raising the Gaff, some with a seat for the forestay. so this was today's project after finishing up all the seizings on the shrouds.
 
 
I needed to make the crane so that I could determine the new length of the forestay.
 
I did a scribble on some 1/8th inch thick brass sheet and drilled a few holes.
 

 
Then I used the jewelers saw to fret out the shape
 

 
The long section was then turned in the lathe while held in the four jaw chuck and threaded 5x40
 

 
I test fitted it to the mast.
 

 
next was the toughest part filing it to the soft shapes, and a final buffing on the wire wheel, which gives the brass a sort of "cast" look.
 

 
And a shot of it on the mast.
 

 
I will drill and add a 1/16th pin in the lower end to prevent it from rotating and also file a seat for the forestay before it is locked onto the mast.
 
Michael
 
 

John Thanks.
 
Back at the block Factory, A long time ago I purchased a small board  of Lemonwood or Degame to make some wagon type wheels, the blanks were cut but the wheels never got made. I re-cut the small curved sections to use for blocks. the wood is quite hard and takes a fine polish it is similar in texture to Boxwood but a little darker. I wont be using this many double blocks, after shaping the profile I will cut a number of them in half to make single blocks like the ones on the right.
 

 
and a metric rule
 

 
The big blocks are Lemonwood the small ones in the front are Boxwood
 
I also worked on a maple one with a metal frame
 

 
The pin is 3/32 in diameter
 

 
the new block attached with yesterday's shackle
 

 

 
 
Michael
 
 

Russ, John, Mark, Bob, thanks for stopping by.
 
Mark My plan is to make everything that would work on the full size boat, also work on this model within reason.
 
I took a break from the winch this morning and finished another shackle this one with a ring instead of a threaded section.
 

 
The ring is made from some .011 music wire.
 
the pin diameter is .073" or scale 5/8th inch the gap is 1 1/4" in scale
 

 
Michael

John are you suggesting something like this?
 

 

 
Michael

Bob, Thanks for that information, it makes a lot of sense to me.
 
So thinking about the post and the position of the ratchet, I rearranged the items on the shaft to shift the ratchet to the starboard side this gives me a lot more room for the post I also machined up a less complex channel to take the second pawl, everything is just held in place with double sided tape. If this looks like a reasonable set up I will cut the hole in the deck and make the post with the top so that it can be used as another "hitching post".
 

 

 

 

 
What do you think?
 
Michael
 
 

The saga continues...
 

 
The new sub-frame for the anchor side it is turned up from some maple broom handle.
 

 
After gluing up I set up and drilled all the bolt holes these are .046 or 3/64th I also increased to shaft to 1/4 which is scale is 2 inches and added square ends for fast winding with a handle I still need to cut the square holes for the extra leverage handles.
 

 
The posts needed to be set through the deck so the holes were drilled and swan then filed square
 

 
Set in place not glued yet so that I can add the other parts of the winch supports.
 

 
The added parts glued in place. Then about ten minutes after the glue had been applied I realized that the whole winch was too low for the chain to go under , I was so focused on clearing the under side of the bowsprit when it is retracted. after getting all that sorted I also noted that to clear the bowsprit I had already moved the winch a little further to the stern so the distance between the bowsprit posts and the winch barrel was longer that the pawl I had drawn for the ratchet (don't you just love dominoes) I decided to cross that bridge later.
 
 

 
I snapped  off the newly glued parts and raised the posts so that there was clearance under the staves for the chain. so then I had to re-drill the holes for the top bar of the bowsprit posts, this did not go as well as planned the 1/8 drill was not aligned properly and came out the second post off to the stern about 3/64ths.  It took a while to sort out I used a scrap of oak and drilled a hole 5/16 in diameter. This guide block was clamped to the port post and I used a 5/16 end mill in the hand drill to start the new larger hole to encompass both 1/8th holes.
 
I marked a datum across the oak and the posts so that I could re-clamp it to the starboard post.
After both holes were drilled I used a 5/16 reamer to ensure that a 5/16 dowel would slide through smoothly.
 
I still needed to shave about 1/16th off the bottom side of the bowsprit after that was done the bowsprit cleared the winch barrel as it was retracted.
 

 
I made a compromise and formed a bracket that will be screwed to the deck with 4 screws to hold the hinged end of the pawl. I will sleep on this solution and see how it feel tomorrow.
 

 
Michael

Andy, thanks for the compliment, I was tired by the time I got to the photographs, I left the holes for today.
 
John, yes, the interesting thing is that there are all sorts of shackles, I have some that are made from sheet stainless that are used in small boats., looking at the photographs of the full size smacks and Cutters it seems that many of them are either galvanized or bronze.
 
Alex today I used the metric side of the scale so that you don't have to do the calculation, I also made some smaller shackles.
 
Druxey I suppose that swageing the ends is akin to forging in a way, thanks for stopping by.
 
Tom, The first one is still OK it is going to stay in the lower bob stay fitting, I must say though that I prefer the aesthetics of the turned and swaged shackles.
 
Mark thanks, for that comment.
 
Daniel, I am happy that you think it looks easy, As I was working on them I was thinking about some of the metal work done by the folk here like Remco and Recon and Gaetan turning up all those cannons and all the little bits that go with them , makes my humble little shackles seem rather clunky.
 
Regarding the little cutter I am giving my eyes a rest, I will get a little more done soon.
 
Sometimes I wonder why I go to all this effort but I am having a lot of fun.
 
Today I started to manufacture a few more shackles some were turned from some 1/8th inch rod and some from some 5/32 inch rod, a couple were from 3/32 Inch rod. I used the same process as before, I did these while waiting for the segments to glue for the winch barrels.
 

 
Flattening the ends of the turned parts
 

 
This pic shows the smaller shackles
 

 
Evening up the ends prior to drilling
 

 
Gluing up the barrel staves I am gluing them in pairs which I find much easier that trying to glue them all at once. this way they do not need clamping.
 

 
family shot of the different sizes of shackles. The new smaller one has a 1x72 threaded pin which was made from 1/16th rod
 
I have a busy day tomorrow in town and into the evening so that's it for a little while I will be happy when this snow is finally gone and I can get the door open and get the hull painted with some top coats.
 
Michael
 
 
 

The Gammon Iron was mounted today and a saddle carved for the bowsprit along with finishing cleaning up the bowsprit end cap. I will need to make a protective metal saddle for the anchor on the opposite side of the Gammon Iron and also the winch for the anchor chain.
 
I'm beginning to see why these models take a while.
 

 

 
I put 4 screws to hold the cap to the bowsprit.
 

 

 
The next items are the jib traveler for the bowsprit and the bob stay fitting on the stem.
 
Michael

John , Johann, thanks for your kind words.
 
Bob here is a couple of pictures that will hopefully show the way that the blade is clamped.
 
The screws are 4x40 the top one is a regular cap screw the bottom one is a round head cap screw
 
for the top one I drilled a #43 hole and slotted the end with a .010 slotting saw and the bottom one is by having a clearance hole #33 through the brass arm and a piece of 1/4x 1/4 brass threaded with the 4x40 to clamp to the main bar.
 


 

 
Michael