Ondras71

Thank you all very much for the wishes and likes friends..
 
Continuation with the production of "belaying pins". The form has been modified a little, the pins are now smaller..

Comparison with the old one, a total of 58 pcs..

Pins on the bow. I have to darken them to make them stand out..


 
 

Thank you all very much for the wishes and likes friends..
 
Continuation with the production of "belaying pins". The form has been modified a little, the pins are now smaller..

Comparison with the old one, a total of 58 pcs..

Pins on the bow. I have to darken them to make them stand out..


 
 

Thank you all very much for the wishes and likes friends..
 
Continuation with the production of "belaying pins". The form has been modified a little, the pins are now smaller..

Comparison with the old one, a total of 58 pcs..

Pins on the bow. I have to darken them to make them stand out..


 
 

Thank you all very much for the wishes and likes friends..
 
Continuation with the production of "belaying pins". The form has been modified a little, the pins are now smaller..

Comparison with the old one, a total of 58 pcs..

Pins on the bow. I have to darken them to make them stand out..


 
 

Hello,
the end of the ratlines have an eye splice, but in simplified form.
The following pictures show how it works.
The end is inserted twice through the strands:


 

Hello friends of model making,
another year has passed and you followed my project with interest. Therefore I would like to thank everyone warmly. With new energy and motivation, I hope we will continue to enjoy our hobby a lot.

Merry Christmas and good wishes for the coming year.

Hello,
meanwhile I made the various blocks with spliced Stropps.

 

@druxey
@davec
Hi, 
thanks for the positive feedback, and also all the others for the LIKES.
Slowly I work my way up the shrouds of the main mast with the ratlines. 

Today I want to give some details about the ratlines. Often pictures show more than words can describe.
I hope that it is the same in this case. Enjoy the pictures:




 

Hello,
the caps for the elavation thread have been completed in the meantime and then fixed.

Continuation: Ratlines - Enfléchures
With the lashing of the shroud ladder, the mizzen mast shrouds of the French corvette on the port side, including ratlines, could be completed. 

 
Now we continue with the ratlines for the starboard mizzen mast shrouds.
See you soon ...

@Vladimir_Wairoa
Hello,
thank you very much for the kind words and thanks to all the others for the many LIKES.
 
Continuation: Ratlines - Enfléchures
It's been quite a while since I finished the ratlines for the main mast shrouds. Especially with monotonous work, it is good for motivation to deal with other details, such as the signpost blocks, in between and thus provide variety.
Meanwhile I am again dealing with the ratlines, namely those of the mizzen mast shrouds, as you can see on the following pictures. The binding of the eye splice at the first and last shroud I have already described in detail in previous reports.

 

 

Hello,
the first of these blocks was attached to the main shrouds. 
As an aid I used a wooden strip which was covered with a double-sided adhesive tape.
Nevertheless it is a very difficult job to tie up these tiny pieces with Japanese silk yarn.
 

 

Hi,
thanks for your nice comments. And to all the others also a thank you for the many Likes.
Today I show step by step how I made these blocks.
The pictures speak for themselves.

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hello,
La Créole also had breast-backstays and had them on the mainmast and foremast. 
I am currently making the double blocks (length 6 mm) for the tackles. These will be hooked into an eyebolt on the channel.

 
Here is an attempt to show the leather lining of the hole in the cap.

 
Here I show an example from the L'Hermione.

 
 

Hello,
today I show the sister blocks that have been made in the meantime.
Now also properly integrated, not as incorrectly shown in the last post.

@Gahm
 Hello,
Thomas, many, many thanks for your kind comment. 
Thank you also to all the others for the many LIKES.
Such a response always makes us happy and gives us motivation to continue.
 
Today I would like to report briefly on a small mishap.
I thought that I could attach the sister blocks for the topmast shrouds directly to the model.
Of course, this does not work. Good thing I haven't tied the lanyards yet.
So I will have to remove the topmast shrouds again.
Before I do that, I made a prototype for a sister block to see how they will be attached.

Source: Atlas du Génie Maritime
 

The one hole is drilled too far in the middle. I will do better than that.
 

Hello,
before I start, I would like to show the mizzen topmast head with the standing backstays as a supplement to my last report.

 
Contrary to my announcement, I will finish all the standing backstays first. It makes more sense to finish the rigging on one level first and then go upstairs.
So I continued with the main topmast backstays. 

 
I made these backstays from a rope with ø 0.81 mm (8 x 3 jap. silk YLI). The dead eyes have a diameter of 4 mm). 

 
Here you can see the main topmast with the backstays.

 
The double blocks for the shifting backstays are already installed on the channel of the main mast.

 

@archnav
@Mic.fr
 
thank you both for the kind comments. Thanks to the others for all the LIKES, of course.
It is always a pleasure to receive such feedback. It motivates me and gives me strength for monotonous work.
 
I have now finished the mizzen topmast backstays for the starboard side. For these standing backstays, two on each side of the ship, I made the lanyards from Japanese silk 4 x 1, which gives a diameter of 0.30 mm.  

 

 

 
 
 

The next step is to attach the shifting backstays for the mizzen topgallant.
 

In the meantime I have finished the mizzen topmast shrouds.

 

 

 
I have made the preparations for the mizzen topmast backstays. The implementation will take place soon.

Here I show how to determine the diameter of a rope relatively accurately (13,6,41 mm / 20 = 0,67 mm).


The picture shows a dead eye with a diameter of 2.8 mm for the tackle to be attached to the mizzen topmast backstays on the channels.
You can also see a rope with a diameter of 0.67 mm for the mizzen topmast backstays.

 
 
 
 
 

@captain_hook
@bruce d
Thank you very much for your nice comments and to all the others for the many LIKES.
 
In the meantime I am already working on the mizzen topmast shrouds. There the dead eyes have a diameter of only 2.3 m. 

 

 

@druxey
@Keith Black
Hello,
thank you for the interesting comments.
 
Continuation: Main masthead with weather vane and war pennant (flamme de guerre)
To take into account the discussion about the flow technique of a windsock, I now made the windsocks with a small opening at the top for the three masts. I dyed the silk a little darker.


The next picture shows the weather vane (girouette) with windsock (Manche de vent) on the foremast.

 

     
And here again in a modified form, the arrangement of the weather vane with windsock on the main mast.

Now I will start the first attempts for the war pennant.
To be continued ...

 

@druxey
Hello,
first of all I would like to thank you for the appreciation of my work.
Of course, I'll be happy to show you how I make the thimbles. I hope that the following pictures explain this as far as possible.
Should there be any unanswered questions, please don't be shy and just ask.

 

 

 

Continuation: Standing rigging of the royal masts
Meanwhile I am already installing the royal shrouds of the foremast. To keep the distances of the thimbles more or less equal, I use a correspondingly curved piece of wire for the installation.
 
 
See you soon ...

Standing rigging of the royal masts
Before I lash the boats, I would like to finish off the standing rigging as a whole.

To complete the standing rigging of the royal masts (shrouds, stays), a few more detailed clarifications and preparations were required.
As can be seen in the image section of the upper rigging of the original model, the royal masts are very filigree components. In the model, the royal masts are between a maximum of 2 to 3 mm thick.
In the picture I have the stays
marked in yellow and the royal shrouds in red.
 
Source: Monograph by J. Boudriot, detail of the original model

Since neither the plan nor the description of the monograph contain any specific information on how the edition of the royal stays and shrouds should look in detail, I tried to find relevant information in relevant sources (literature, internet). Unfortunately, I was unable to get much information on this. Somehow the stays and shrouds have to be given a fixed position. Therefore, I orientated myself on the book by KLAUS SCHRAGE - RUNDHÖLZER, RUNDHÖLZER, RUNDHÖLZER, RUNDHÖLZER UND SEGEL page 92, Fig. 255. There you can see cleats on the royal masts. Accordingly, I tried to make these cleats as suitable as possible.
In the first step, the fastening of the cleats (model size 2.8 mm / 1.2 mm) had to be clarified. For this I needed tiny bolts, which I made from brass wire ø 0.25 mm using the method of a Russian model maker.

 
Furthermore, the ropes for the royal shrouds (mizzen mast ø 0.25 mm or fore mast and main mast ø 0.35 mm) and the stays (ø 0.25 mm or ø 0.40 mm) were made with the rope making machine manufactured.
There was also the question of how to manage the lifts for the royal yards. There was only one royal shroud per side. In this respect, the thimbles for the royal lifts could not be integrated. So I made a mast collar with two thimbles (ø1.2 mm).
A serving of these thin ropes was not given in the original either. The stays are placed with one eye on the cleats. The stays were brought down using thimbles and fixed with lanyard lashings. I still have to clarify these fastening details.

 
The location of the cleats on the royal masts was above the sheaves for the royal halliard, as can be seen in the following picture (mizzen royal mast).

 
Sequel follows …

Continuation: Garnet tackle - Palan d'etai
In the meantime I have finished all the components for the garnet tackles.
The pendants were hung up on a specially made mast collar with a thimble. I made these hooks with thimbles using my own method. For this purpose, an 18 mm long brass rod with a diameter of 1.2 mm was turned off with a needle file on the Proxxon fine grinder so that the thickened areas were created at the corresponding points on the hooks. I made the thimbles in the tried and tested manner from brass tubes.

 
The next picture shows the finished hooks with thimbles, not yet blackened.

 
The other two pictures show all components of the 3 garnet tackles:
- 6 double blocks, 3 of which have swivel hooks for the tackles
- 4 single blocks for the guides, 2 of them with hooks
- 2 guide elements
- 2 mast collars (one tackle was lashed directly to the stay with an eye)
- ropes ø 0.46 mm and ø 0.67 mm (original ø 32 mm or ø 22 mm)
- 3 pendants ø 0.90 mm (original ø 43 mm)

 

 
Sequel follows …