Paul Jarman
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Everything posted by Paul Jarman
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Some of the PE glued onto the bow deck. I did this because it was better to glue it onto clean plastic rather then painting it first. This will be painted in situ. Then there are all the other parts that can be added once painted. Still a fair bit to do along with plenty more PE.
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Middle deck completed. Didn't take long to do this section. There are over 90 PE enhancements from the MK1 upgrade kit on this deck. Which will be all but invisible once the shelter deck is in place. the Hawser reels where the worst part of this stage of the build. The parts are so fragile that most of the sides broke away. But managed to make a good job of repairing them. The cable drums are painted beige to allow them to stand out rather then using red paint which would be to overpowering. Onto the bow deck next. just have to decide what to replace and what to enhance.
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Stern deck complete. The blast bags are painted with ocean grey with a bit of white added to lighten the colour. I have added the brass tompions to the barrels which I think makes them look better than open barrels. Onto the middle deck next. There is quite a bit of work to do on this deck with all the added PE. Most of which will be hard to see once the shelter deck is in place.
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The stern deck is now complete and all the hand rails are in place. They look very good considering how fragile they are. Of all the PE I can put up with some of the very tiny parts, but I really hate PE handrails. These are the MK1 upgrade rails. They have the various areas cut out where there are cleats and bollards. The kit PE does not have this option. There are a few parts that will attached to the side. These will be added on completion. The davits are soldered together rather than gluing them, they look a lot better doing them that way. Number 3 is the davits for elsewhere, they have the advantage that when bent into shape they will have a tab on the bottom to add them to the deck which these ones did not have. The picture of the stern booms has had a part made up from plastic rod. The original supporting part was so fragile it bent out of shape. The part is not as big as it looks. I will concentrate on the stern guns next before moving onto the middle deck.
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The kit comes supplied with two extra gun turrets. A is as built from the box. There are no blast bags with kit and nothing to hide the gap where the barrels come through the turret. B is the Trumpeter upgrade blast bags and barrels. C is the MK1 upgraded barrels with blast bags. As can be seen there is a marked difference between the three versions. Especially in the length and diameter of the barrels. I am now almost certainly going to go with the MK1 upgrades.
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Starting the detailing. I like to work stern to bow on my models. The deck is painted deck tan as I don't like the wooden decks. I like it and it has come up really well. A lot of the fittings have been added. the guns are the replacement metal ones from the MK1 kit. The only thing I don't like very much are the resin blast bags. I did not realise working in resin is so complex. The slightest bit filed down to much could ruin the part. They are not terrible but there is a very slight gap where the guns fit in. There is a PE ring that goes around the base of the guns. They might look better once that is added and they are painted up. If not they can be removed and replaced with the Trumpeter gun upgrades. Although their version of the blast bags are almost twice the length of these ones. They are growing on me as I keep looking at them though.
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The hull is complete except for a few ladders and bits that will be added once the model is nearing completion. I reckon the mix I have made up for the upper hull is very close to the Home Fleet grey used on the ship. The degaussing cable is visible above the props and has not disappeared as I was worried it would do once painted. The model is now bolted firmly on the baseboard and I can work on the decks and superstructures without the need to touch the hull.
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The hull repainted. I did not have enough of the Tamiya neutral grey to make a good mix. But I did have a number of different Vallejo greys from previous models. They where far to light to really look authentic. But I mixed them with some black and a candy racing blue also from Vallejo. I have manage to mix just over 200mls and that has been decanted into 50mls jars. So if I have another accident which I almost certainly will I won't loose most of the paint. I think I have come up with a better colour than the neutral grey I was originally painting the hull. Not quite as dark as I would have liked but looks good with the dark grey bottom. I also remembered why I prefer The Vallejo colours the are so good. Excellent coverage and all round better paints to work with. The black boot line is Tamiya lacquer paint. This is very good paint and covers well. It dries very fast. But looks good. It looks lighter than it is in the photo because of the flash on the camera.
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I did the same working on Titanic.Only I managed to drop a pair of pliers on the stern railings.
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This is how the model looks at present. I have lost around half of the approximately 200 mls I had mixed.I have a number of grey paints. So I may redo the upper hull and mix another batch and share it between some 50mls pots I have.
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To say I am a tadge miffed is an understatement. I have the hull almost complete. I was tidying up the boot line and knocked the paint jar over. Very lucky that most of the paint that went on the model is on the bottom of the hull. But because I made a mix of two different greys and added some blue to get the colour right, I don't know what the mix was. And there won't be enough to paint for all the deck structures and fittings. If it was a smaller model I would just start again from scratch and buy some more paint and make up another mix. Just hope I can get the mix right when I can afford to buy some more paint.
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Thanks,I will paint the shafts the same color as the bottom as recommended on the web site. Which will be dark grey. The color scheme is also based on information from the web site,whitch is the best available at this time.
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Two coats of primer on. It's a lighter shade of grey than the kit colour. Takes a lot of paint on that hull. I was worried it would hide the degaussing cable to much. But it actually makes it stand out more. Need to leave it overnight now and then a rub down with a very fine wet or dry sheet and maybe a final coat of primer before starting the painting.
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So true. I dread to think how much Amazon have made out of me over the years in paints.
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I'm adding rigols above the smaller portholes. These are part of the MK1 kit porthole covers.
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Received my paints this morning. Dark grey lower hull and neutral grey upper hull and superstructures. The LP25 is a brown lacquer paint for the cortisine deck and concrete colour for the semtex deck, with wooden deck tan for the deck colours. I usually buy all my paints through Amazon prime. When I put all these in the basket it came to just over £193 with around £9 in savings. I was about to break them down into two orders and buy half this month the rest next month. Before doing so I decided to check if they where sold elsewhere, to find out that Amazon are putting a huge mark up price on them. I found and brought them from Emodels. Total price £67. A saving of over £120. never will I buy paint from Amazon again.
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Port side degaussing cable fitted. Just needs a bit of tidying up. I followed the anatomy of a ship diagram more than the instructions that came with the PE. Good job I did because the part that is attached to the hull that the cable goes over is not shown in the PE instruction sheet. It was better to glue the cable to the anchor fairing before attaching it to get it correct. The fairing looks a lot better now than the clump of plastic that sat there. Looking at the photos on the web site I have probably made it to neat as it looks a right mess in reality. The picture from the book is of the Starboard side. But I reckon I have followed the run of the cable pretty much as it looks on the ship. Just a shame it will be mostly lost once the hull is painted. If you have the patience with adding PE it so worth the investment in a good upgrade set.
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The hull is ready for priming and painting. All the structures on the deck are dry fitted. I added the guns so I could get an idea of how large the model will be. The bottom of the hull has been sanded with wet and dry to remove all the seams. I have reduced the armour plating as recommended on the HMS Hood website. It is not as thick as it was now and looks a lot sleeker. I have fitted the first 2 lengths of degaussing cable. It is a bit more time consuming then I expected. But will improve the look of the hull so much better then the moulded strip that represented the same part. All the port holes have been drilled out and I have the port hole rims from the MK1 kit. They have the rigols on top again as mentioned needing to be added on the website. The smaller ones do not have any of these. But there are so many parts that I will try to remove the rigols to add to them. They will also be glazed. The gun barrels are held in place with blu tack. They will eventually be replaced with white metal ones. The propellers are held in place on their own. The odd looking funnel colour is the replacement resin one.
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Small update. I gave it my best on those tiny slivers of PE for the anchor fairings. But they where just to small and after the second one flew out of the tweezers I decided to use the plastic rod to make the supports. Which has come out just fine. They look strange on the hull. That's because they are held in place with a bit of blue tac to get an idea of how they will look. Once painted and glued in place they should look OK. They certainly change the look of the bow without having the thick plastic moulds. Also one bit of advice on the HMS Hood web site was to drill out the stern anchor hole. The diagram is from the Anatomy of the ship book and I drilled the hole through the deck at an angle. I also found an anchor amongst all the bits I keep from various kits that I never complete. It looks quite good although it may be out of scale.
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I'll be back in a month or so with another update. I am about to start preparing the hull. Along with the PE degaussing cable there are two anchor fairings. The two areas marked need to be removed to add these. Those fairing supports are as small as they look. The end one is just about visible so it should be a challenge to fit them. I've just checked the HMS Hood web site and they mention that trumpeter have the propellers the wrong way round so will need to check that out somewhere. Unless anyone here is familiar with this problem and can help me out. They also suggest sanding down the hull plating as it is to thick. Although it is not a huge problem and may take some time to get it correct without throwing the hull out, so I may leave it as it is.
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It looks like it was put together in around 5 sections. I've tried to show the joins in the picture.
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I'm committed to the PE degaussing cable now. The raised area came off fine. Just had to be carful near the bow section. Now I have to give it all a light sanding and a final clean up with some wet and dry. The PE should improve the hull and add better realism to the model. It is out of focus because I blew the picture up to try and give a better idea of how it will look. And I only sliced one finger as the scalpel blade slipped. Not to deep luckily.
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