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Paul Jarman

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  1. Paul Jarman
    The hull is ready for priming and painting. All the structures on the deck are dry fitted. I added the guns so I could get an idea of how large the model will be. The bottom of the hull has been sanded with wet and dry to remove all the seams. I have reduced the armour plating as recommended on the HMS Hood website. It is not as thick as it was now and looks a lot sleeker. I have fitted the first 2 lengths of degaussing cable. It is a bit more time consuming then I expected. But will improve the look of the hull so much better then the moulded strip that represented the same part. All the port holes have been drilled out and I have the port hole rims from the MK1 kit. They have the rigols on top again as mentioned needing to be added on the website. The smaller ones do not have any of these. But there are so many parts that I will try to remove the rigols to add to them. They will also be glazed. The gun barrels are held in place with blu tack. They will eventually be replaced with white metal ones. The propellers are held in place on their own. The odd looking funnel colour is the replacement resin one.
  2. Paul Jarman
    Small update. I gave it my best on those tiny slivers of PE for the anchor fairings. But they where just to small and after the second one flew out of the tweezers I decided to use the plastic rod to make the supports. Which has come out just fine. They look strange on the hull. That's because they are held in place with a bit of blue tac to get an idea of how they will look. Once painted and glued in place they should look OK. They certainly change the look of the bow without having the thick plastic moulds. Also one bit of advice on the HMS Hood web site was to drill out the stern anchor hole. The diagram is from the Anatomy of the ship book and I drilled the hole through the deck at an angle. I also found an anchor amongst all the bits I keep from various kits that I never complete. It looks quite good although it may be out of scale.
  3. Paul Jarman
    I'll be back in a month or so with another update. I am about to start preparing the hull. Along with the PE degaussing cable there are two anchor fairings. The two areas marked need to be removed to add these. Those fairing supports are as small as they look. The end one is just about visible so it should be a challenge to fit them. I've just checked the HMS Hood web site and they mention that trumpeter have the propellers the wrong way round so will need to check that out somewhere. Unless anyone here is familiar with this problem and can help me out. They also suggest sanding down the hull plating as it is to thick. Although it is not a huge problem and may take some time to get it correct without throwing the hull out, so I may leave it as it is.
  4. Paul Jarman
    It looks like it was put together in around 5 sections. I've tried to show the joins in the picture.
  5. Paul Jarman
    It's a one piece hull. And apart from a bit of cleaning up a very nice one.
  6. Paul Jarman
    I'm committed to the PE degaussing cable now. The raised area came off fine. Just had to be carful near the bow section. Now I have to give it all a light sanding and a final clean up with some wet and dry. The PE should improve the hull and add better realism to the model. It is out of focus because I blew the picture up to try and give a better idea of how it will look. And I only sliced one finger as the scalpel blade slipped. Not to deep luckily.
  7. Paul Jarman
    The decks and shelter deck and a couple of structures dry fitted. Everything goes together really well. One of the funnels will be replaced with the resin one. I have removed the wooden deck. I just do not like these decks. They look so false and a painted one will look a lot better. There are some very nice details in the wood effect plastic deck. As the wooden deck came away so easy, I could see this being a problem in a year or so. And needing continuous maintenance over time.
  8. Paul Jarman
    Thanks Jeff,I reckon around a year depending on how much PE I add. I will check Micro Master out.
  9. Paul Jarman
    The base board has been built and the model is on the nice big square columns. The nuts are glued in place and I will give it 24 hours for the glue to fully cure. Then the hull will be removed to work on and replaced back on the columns when completed so all the work on the model from the decks up can take place with no need to touch the hull. I have also done a trial run on removing the raised rail going round the hull and it is going to be a long but worthwhile job. it requires a very sharp flat scalpel and a bit of sanding with a very fine sanding stick. Having just spent nearly 2 years 10 months building Titanic and Queen Mary 2 I think I might treat myself to a week of no modelling to wind down and come at this project fresh. I know being retired means I am on constant holiday. But I reckon you need a break every so often. It will also allow me to do a bit more research and decide on how to do the various alterations to the model. Forgive the dog hairs in the picture. They get everywhere. I have to ban her from the work area once I start painting.
  10. Paul Jarman
    Yes I've watched all of his videos. That's where I picked up a lot of tips I am using. And will dip in and out of his build every so often. His painting guide is excellent. And it is one of the guides that they recommend on the HMS Hood web site. The deck is pretty much glued on solid. I tried to lift it but it was starting to split. So I may stick with them as it would look out of place with only one fitted. Its hard to plain off the planking on the deck to fit the MK1 deck as none of the boxes and such are replaced as they are with the Pontos kit.
  11. Paul Jarman
    Thanks,it is quite an undertaking. Yes, I have seen that review. As they point out such a shame Trumpeter didn't liaise with them . It could been an even better kit. But at least the alterations needed seem straight foreword. Paul
  12. Paul Jarman
    The first job is the degaussing cable. The area marked needs to be removed. Have to be very careful not to take to much off as the hull above the marked area has to stay. this is a case of taking my time to make a good job of this part of the build.
  13. Paul Jarman
    Thanks for the kind comments.
  14. Paul Jarman
    Good Evening everyone. My HMS Hood build log. I won't bore you with to many photos of the kit parts, but have included a few to give an idea of the quality of the parts. This 1\200 scale kit from Trumpeter is very well detailed. It could be built out of the box without any alterations or aftermarket sets. However there are quite a few areas that do require some attention. These areas can be found on the HMS Hood web site. There are around 50 in total, most of which are minor alterations. There are two areas that need quite a bit of altering. One is the degaussing cable that runs along the top of the hull. trumpeter represent it as a raised strip which is incorrect. I have been able to buy a PE upgrade for this from Scalewarships. The other incorrect part is one of the funnels. They should both be the same size. The kit has the rear funnel smaller then the front one. Also from Scalewarships I have purchased a resin upgraded funnel. As can be seen from the pictures they will now be correct. And as a gift for ordering these items they send you a PE fret of the splinter shields. I need to make a decision on the use of the wooden decks. I have to admit I don't really like them. I attached one and although it looks fine it is showing signs of lifting around the various ammo boxes. I have read that this is a downside to using these wooden decks. So I may try and lift it off and paint the decks. But if not then I will stick with them and see if I can get some glue under the areas it is lifting. I will be using the colour guide as near as possible with the information provided on the HMS Hood website. The Ani Fouling on the hull below the boot line will be grey not red. With grey above. So it will be dark grey below and light to medium grey above the boot line. I also have the HMS Hood Anatomy of a Ship book for reference. I need to make up a baseboard to attach the hull on wooden blocks to work on. I have an old DVD unit that I no longer use so this should be perfect once cut to size. I have invested in the MK1 upgrade set and there are a lot of extras to add to the model. Some of which is so small you have to ask yourself whether it is worth adding as it is unlikely to be seen once painted. This is a large model at 51 inches long. I have included a picture alongside Titanic and Queen Mary 2 to give an idea of the scale. I have never untaken a model kit of this size before so am looking forward to giving it my best shot. A breakdown of all the parts is as follows: Plastic parts = 1008 on 20 sprues MK1 PE parts = 4827 give or take 50 on 24 frets Turned metal parts = 157 resin parts = 41 White metal parts = 6 Chain = 1 that is 6040 parts if they are all used. Plus there are the 7 frets of PE that come with the kit. These will come in handy if any mistakes are made with the MK1 parts.
  15. Paul Jarman
    Queen Mary 2 finished. And displayed along with Titanic. both very nice looking ships. This has been a very good build from a good kit from Revell. However it has not been without the odd problem. Most notably the amount of broken and warped handrails. It has gone together very well for the most part. And the ships boats are 95% in a straight line. It has made a real change to complete a kit in such a short space of time. I could have made it look a lot more detailed with the added PE. But I did not want to add even more time to the build. Time for that with my next build.
  16. Paul Jarman
    And the boats ready to be added. Just got to add decals to them all.
  17. Paul Jarman
    Davits fitted ready for the ships lifeboats. All lifeboats painted ready to be constructed and added. Then a few handrails to add and it is finished. May finish Tomorrow or by Thursday at latest. Took two and a half years to build Titanic from wood. The difference between a wood and plastic build, this has taken just over 4 months. And I have these four models for my next project.
  18. Paul Jarman
    All the clear railings complete. Just the davits and ships boats to be painted and added. then the final sets of railings and she is finished. Adding all those 48 small clear parts was by far the most frustrating part of this build. Most where easy to place as they sat against a column at the back so just needed a small dab of glue on the column. But 14 of them just sit on the floor of the cabin. And the glue would not grab instantly. Apart from that is on the couple of occasions I accidently dropped them onto the baseboard when they stuck instantly. As I will be starting the Hood next, I have treated myself to some Christmas presents. I have the Trumpeter 1/200 scale Bismarck ordered and on the way. And also the Trumpeter 1/350 scale Prinz Eugen and Tamiya 1/350 scale Prince of Wales. This will low me to display the four ships that took part in the Battle of the Denmark Straight. Should keep me going for a few years as I am buying the MK1 upgrade kits and other upgrades for all those models. I did think about buying the 1/200 scale Occre Prinz Eugen but there is a lot of work in that kit and I don't really want to do another wooden model just yet. I may however change my mind in a few years.
  19. Paul Jarman
    thanks
  20. Paul Jarman
    Started adding the hand rails in front of the sea view cabins. These clear rails have the tops painted brown and the columns are black. Once added they improve the look of the model by quite a lot. They tone down all the open cabins and make them look far more realistic. However, for some reason Revell have decided to make the top lines out of very small lengths instead of the single straight lengths the same as all the other ones.
  21. Paul Jarman
    Thank you. The only ships Ive ever been on are the River Mersy Ferry and the Ferry to France.
  22. Paul Jarman
    Thank you. Yes I do like the hull lines myself. Once finished I will display it alongside the Titanic.
  23. Paul Jarman
    Queen Mary 2 decks completed. I have not used all the photo etch that came with the kit just some of the bits that add a bit of detail. I must have been unlucky and got a kit that was not in perfect condition. There are so many broken and warped hand rails. I decided to use the plastic ones as the are already moulded in shape. I could have improved the look a lot more if I used the photo etch ones but it takes to long to shape them. I decided not to use the flags. I did put one on the jack staff but it just did not look right. They appear far to big. I also filed off all the raised mouldings that went along the various deck structures rather than trying to paint them. I used a 0.001mm square plastic rod instead which looks a lot cleaner and more realistic. I now just have the clear balcony rails to add and the ships boats and a few more railings and it will be complete. I am happy with way it looks without all the added PE. The other reason I stuck with a literally out of the box build is because I want to get it finished so I can start on the Hood, for which I have the MK1 upgrade set. so that will be around a year to eighteen months build perhaps even pushing two years.
  24. Paul Jarman
    Thanks for the tips on cleaning the plastic. I will buy some and give that a go. They are not completely flat as they have raised moldings. Which is why I have not tried sanding them yet.
  25. Paul Jarman
    Deck fitted in place and the superstructures dry fitted. Most go together just fine but some will require a bit of work. Just need to prime and paint them and then onto the lifeboats and clear parts. The instructions have you adding the clear parts in front of the balconies before adding all these parts. but I will add the clear parts after completing the deck fittings. Every window at the back of the balcony cabins has been individually glazed. That is around 900. One of the problems is the clear parts that have become fogged somehow. This is how they came out of the box. So far I have tried various techniques to clean them without success. If any one has any tips on how to clean these that would be much appreciated. Also, not Queen Mary associated but I have been sorting through all the MK1 upgrade kit for the Hood ready for when I start to build her. I don't particularly like wooden decks but decided to give it a go on this section. Everyone of those deck structures has to be cut out. But I think it has turned out just fine. Not brilliant but once all the structures are added it should look OK. The highlighted section will be cut out and there will be columns added underneath. Hopefully will be able finish the Queen Mary and start a build log for the Hood in the New Year.

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