Fernando E

A quick update on the Quarterdeck, with a small improvement and modification of the original kit: The National Maritime Museum model presents a nice molding above the rear bulkhead.
 

 
That molding is not present in the CAF Model kit and I wanted to add it: 
 

 
I used one of the 2 x 2 mm strips in the Session #4 box and after scrapping it with the correct shape, came up with this sandwich. Instead of the sub-floor going directly against the balusters/columns, I think it offers a little bit more realism for the stern of that ship.
 

 
You can see (above) how the molding is placed: a 2 x 2 strip sitting on top of the bulkhead and a 2 x 2 strip scrapped and glued to it. It does not cover entirely the top of the balusters, but once the top deck is in place, it will be impossible to see that.
 
Because of the introduction of that decorative molding, the top deck is raised by another 2 mm. At that point, the beams supporting the top deck must be raised to accommodate the change: 
 

 

 
This is easily done by placing a 2 mm thick piece of wood on top of the elbows, supporting the beams: 
 

 

 
Once everything is sanded smooth and cleaned, the poop deck fits nicely with just a slight curvature to eliminate the standing water: 
 

 
Note that the installation of these beams is part of the last Session #5.
 
Overall view of the rear section and quarterdeck: 
 

 
Time to move back to the Gallery and the bow. Thank you all for your comments and encouragements, as they are very much appreciated.
 
Yves

Here's a small update...very small!
 
This is Indy's figurehead, albeit still needs some touching up. Again, this was done by my friend, Mark. He's far more patience (and ability!) than I have. 

Finally, the building of the bulkhead separating the main cabins: 
 

 

 
Overall, it is pretty much the same way of building that partition. It is finally glued in place: 
 

 

 
Not much to see, once the poop deck will be in place: 
 

 

 
Time to install the diamond floor: 
 

 

 

 
That's it, for the quarterdeck. I still have the doors leading to the "Johns/Galleries" to build and a few details and we will be able to close the lid on all this :-(
 
Yves
 
 

The next phase is the building of the screen bulkhead. Here I wanted to depict it as close as possible to the National Maritime Museum model, which is basically painted in white. I only used some light gray for the windows and the wainscoting of the panels. Inside. the wood is just stained, lightly: 
 

 
The white putty is used to provide a very tight seal between the bulkhead and the planking. This prevents the light to go through.
 

 
 
 

 
The rear screen bulkhead is slightly convex in shape.
 
Yves
 
 

At this stage, I can finally finish sub-floor and planking of the rear quarterdeck. But before we install the sub-floor, the rudder must be set in place and connected to the spring for an automatic neutral positioning: 
 

 

 
A little bit of vacuum cleaner to get rid of the dust and the sub-floor can be installed: 
 

 

 
Planking can be completed at this point: 
 

 
As usual, 0.5 mm maple planks, glued individually, sanded with 400 grit and treated with three coats of Wipe On Poly for depth of color and protection.
 

 

 
Yves
 
 

Time to populate the quarterdeck with a few features: 
 

 

 

 

 

 
The CAF Model kit does not provide the base plates to the deck. I took the inspiration from the superb 1/72nd Bellona built by Chris Watton and figured that if Chris had built these, he probably knew better than the CAF folks. It also makes for a much sturdier railing overall.
 

 
Yves

After installing the red window frames on the gallery, you can finish the poop windows: 
 

 
Those will cut very easily as the glass is paper thin and very easy to remove. Tracing paper is glued behind, sandwiched between two heavy plates for drying and the panes can be glued in place, as long as you can access them from behind, for optimal placement.
 

 
Yves

I have not published an update in a little while and thus, here are some progress. I am still working on the second gallery, trying to make it as similar as the first one, which is not exactly easy. 
 
But first, let me present how these are built, according to CAF, in their Session #5: 
 

 

 
If you manage to get anything out of these instructions, on a finished hull, you are really gifted !!! That is probably why the Internet abounds with pictures of the finished CAF Bellona.... (sarcastic grin).
 
Below is my way of doing it, probably not the best but it works: 
 

 
This is the starting point. As you will see, I am not following the CAF Model instructions and have modified the parts (slightly) to fit my hull and simply because their way of doing it, does NOT work.
 

 
The following part is soaked in alcohol and bent/pre-shaped to accommodate the multiple curves: 
 

 
It is then glued in place. As you can see, I have added a little strip to increase the length of that partition (1I-3): 
 

 
Then a couple more parts are glued on top as well as a strip in the front of the gallery: 
 

 
After a little bit of painting, things are looking much better. Here, Liquitex UltraMarine blue is used with a coat of Future Floor on top:
 

 
We can now install the windows, which in turns will allow us to finish the sub-floor and planking of the rear quarterdeck: 
 

 
I started trying to cut the openings and after breaking two rungs, quickly decided to change strategy. Instead, I used Tamiya Sky Gray to paint the window glasses with a drop of Future Floor to bring some reflections to the window glass. You can see on the front window, the two rungs that snapped immediately. The reason these rungs break is that the CNC machine that built these frames did not go deep enough and left too much material between the rungs. The problem does not exist with the main rear window but only with the galleries windows. I may have to ask CAF to send me a replacement set for that specific window pane.
 

 
Finally, the balusters/columns are installed. Painting the panes (versus cutting the openings)  is a big time saver and actually the only viable option for these window frames.
 
Yves
 
 

....continued.
 
Now, those laser cut rails. These are now glued into the engraved positions on the outer bulwarks. Some extra parts are added to these to create a 3D relief.






 
 
 
 
What we believe is the remainder of the original second wale from her 64-gun days, is now fitted. The position of this is crucial. Here you see the area around it masked off and the wale sanded.  

 
 
 
 
The timber which is obstructing the gun port is now carefully snipped away and sanded flush with the gun port edges.

 
 
 
More gunwale position levelling, and the parts finally glued into place.



 
 
 
The gun port positions on the forecastle gunwale are also prepared.

 
 
 
 
Now it's the turn of adding rails to the stern of this beast. These are all laser cut and engraved. All you need to do is to make sure you fit them all in alignment. 



 
 
 
 
At this point, I glue in the second set of foremast bitts.

 
 
 
 
And here is Indy so far.

 
 
 
I have actually done more than this in preparing other assemblies, such as binnacle, ship's wheel, catheads etc. At this point, it's not long off adding some colour to this hull.

This update concerns fitting the inner bulwarks, finishing off the stern (for the moment) and fitting rails, gunwales etc. 
 
I alway find snipping and sanding away the last vestige of visible MDF from the model, to be very satisfying. This being the removal of the bulkhead ears above deck. Sandpaper is then used to properly level them.
 


 
 
 
 
As this model is being fitted with the optional maple deck, test fitting and trimming that is the next task. Finally, this is carefully glued into place, checking alignment as I go. Plenty of 2-inch clamps are used to make sure the whole surface is in contact around the various openings.


 
 
 
 
Before the forecastle maple deck can be added, I need to fit the foremast bitts. This is fitted at this stage to allow the lower ply sub deck to be fitted. This is now slotted through the deck beam frames and then the small deck section slotted and glues over it. With that in place, the maple deck can then be fitted. Deck test fitting is of course done before fitting the bitts.

 


 
 
 
 
Lastly, the gangway maple deck section are glued into position.

 
 
 
With the deck sections fitted, the inner bulwarks are painted in red and fitted. The forecastle ones were first soaked and clamped to shape before working with them. 


 
 
 
More gun port tidy up now, using the same homemade sanders I used for the main gun deck.

 
 
 
 
At this point, I needed to fit some of the external details, such as rails etc. These are a combination of strip timber and pre-cut parts. Firstly, a 1mm² strip is glued to the edge of a 3mm² strip, left to dray and the edges subtly rounded. The rail is then fitted at a position equidistant from the wale below it. 


 
 
 
 
A 12-inch steel rule is now wrapped in sandpaper and used to level the gunwale positions for later.

 

Just a quick update on the Quarterdeck: 
 

 
The gratings are made with a special box that came with Session #4. Apparently, it is an "upgrade" kit, that contains all the hatched and grtings for the Bellona. These gratings are pre-cut, slightly convex and are ten times easier to assemble than the original hatches provided with Session #2. I did not know that, because there was no relationship between the instructions that came with my kit and that "upgrade" kit. Anyway, I will be using these gratings from now on and may even try to remove the visible ones, on the main deck and replace them with these. We will see.....
 

 
The fundamental problem with this Bellona kit is ..... THE INSTRUCTIONS or more precisely, the LACK of them.  I find myself spending a lot of time, figuring out what is going to be my next step and how I am going to do it. Honestly, I don't think you can finish the ship by following blindly the instructions and their sequence of order. Anyway, enough rambling.....
 
I am now working on trying to complete the rear quarterdeck. Before you can finish the planking, you have to install the poop windows: 
 

 
You absolutely need a finger on each side to position correctly these window frames. THEN, you can glue the sub-frame for the planking: 
 

 
And then you can plank.....
 

 

 
As usual, a couple of Wipe on Poly on the maple planks, to give it more depth and protect the wood (0.5 mm thick).
 

 
Above: that is a very big quarterdeck..... You could play bowling on it 
 
Oh, I forgot to mention: the lack of bulwarks in visible places such as this one (see below). The kit has nothing, so it is up to you to fabricate it: Yes, all this will be easily visible, as it surrounds the main wheel.
 

 
At this stage, I have done everything I could in the quarterdeck.... I have been trying to postpone the inevitable task of building the second gallery and the "pleasure" of cutting carefully 81 window panes.... Call me procrastinator if you want, but there is absolutely nothing fun in this process.
I am going to try to gather my courage and energy and do it again.... It is that story of needing one finger on each side..... to position perfectly these windows frames. If you follow the official instructions, you just cannot do it...... Every access you can get to the inner galleries is so precious.
 
Yves
 

I re-took the photo of the cabin area as there was too much glare on the deck and the background was dirty. 
 
So, here it is. 

It is now time to work on the rear quarterdeck. Below is the last picture of that part of the ship, never to be seen again: 
 

 
As usual, I am gluing each side separately: 
 

 
Planking can be started for the starboard side of the ship: 
 

 
The floor is treated with Wipe On Poly and you can see the demarcation where the wood has not yet been treated.
 
The kit offers some bulwarks, unfortunately too short, leaving an impressive gap between the floor and the bulwark.
 

 
I am thinking to remedy to that error with a strip of wood carved as a water channel: 
 

 
That strip of wood is 4 mm high/thick and will fill that enormous gap. The other side is glued and the planking is completed: 
 

 

 

 

 
Et voila, where we stand: 
 

 
Yves
 
 
 

The cabin walls and internal cabin screen are now painted, and the screens fitted out.
 


 
 
 
I can finally glue into place the cabin walls, screens and partition. Note the eyelets are added to the ports and floor. 

 
 
 
Did I say this came with a cabinet? No? Well, it does, and this is now fitted into place.


 
 
 
The carronades in this area differ from the others as they will retract into hull during the hull painting process. They can be rolled out into position when that job is complete. These are now fitted to the cabins area.




 
 
 
Time for some furniture and maps too. 


 
 
 
Hope you like the work so far. Onwards!!

This is my weekend update time as I'll be working flat out from this stage to get the upper deck work done. Getting the cabin built and fitted out seemed like a good time to post.
 
The first thing that's to be done is to fit the vertical face for the benching in rear of captain's office. 

 
 
 
With that fitted, the parquet floor is added. This is supplied in card and it looks nicer than the maple version, and a cool contrast. Titebond is used to fit this. The remainder of the rudder housing boxing is then completed.


 
 
 
The bulkhead screens are supplied in two 0.6mm engraved laminates. Instead of using wood-curling white glue, 3M Spray Mount is used. The parts are lovely and glass flat.


 
 
 
The outer bulkhead screen is fitted with laser-engraved columns.

 
 
 
The inner bulkhead screen and the partition wall are temporarily fitted so that the engraved maple floor sections in that area can be trimmed to size. Once they are done, the floor sections are glued into place and the screen and partition removed until later.


 
 
 
This picture will give a good idea about the post design process that I am engaged in when building the production prototype. I will invariably find a small number of things which needed amending. This is either because it was missed during the initial cut build, or because something in the design was changed and a small number of affected areas may have missed an update. Here you see the cabin side wall and the changes made from the initial part. That includes shifting details by 2mm to align gun ports and also packing out the rear to cater to the lowered cabin shelf. Hey, at least we can show you how we do this as a tag-team!


 
 
 
I temporarily fit the cabin walls and the screens so that I can draw a demarcation line to guide me for painting the cabin interior. 

 

Ok, just an interim update. 
 
I was going to leave this until weekend when the office was installed, but I may as well show the upper deck being fitted and prepped for further work. Indy will be supplied with deck planking material as standard. At the moment, this looks like it will be red alder, which is gorgeous. I have some here that I'll do a couple of stages showing how to present it, assuming the modeller will have a good idea already. Indefatigable isn't marketed at modellers who are novices or intermediate. This is an 'Advanced' level kit in VM's new 5-point kit categorisation. More on that when it's released. What you see here are the standard ply sections which are laser-engraved so you have something as a planking guide. 
 

 
 
 
This is where checking the lay of the deck beams really does pay off. This deck is fitted in halves, unlike the main deck, simply as it's a more complex item. With everything test fitted and dry run several times, the deck beams have glue added to them and the deck is slotted into the outer bulkhead ears. Weights and clamps are then used to hold things down until dry. The 2 inch clamps are perfect for this, especially the cutouts where the front end clamps the joint and the clamp tail holds down the opposite side. 

 
 
 
And then the other deck half is fitted in the same way. 

 
 
 
There is a little more internal fairing to do, but this is easy enough. This is where the cabin walls will be installed and I need to make sure there's no bumps anywhere. 

 
 
 
And while this seems drastic, these frames DO need to now be removed as the next build stages will incorporate engraved inner bulwarks which glue onto the the sides.

 
 
 
The forecastle bulkhead ears are now history too.

 
 
More at weekend when I have the painted furniture in hand.

A very brief update before the weekend one. 
 
The office furniture has been painted by a friend of mine, and here it is. The round table will not be included with Indy, but the other table will, along with a couple of chairs. Here you can see a couple of incarnations of the furniture, 3D-printed and painted with oils. My friend also added the navigation charts for some extra effect!
 

 
These items, including the round table are available already though. https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product/cabin-furniture/

Oh yeah… I got the hammocks in too.

I’ve been having a bit of a play and tinkered with doing the cannon…
I’mquite pleased how they turned out.
I mixed the bronze paint with a little black to dull it down a little, which worked well I feel.
…but I didn’t like how the guns just rested on the carriages, so I cut tiny pieces of wine bottle foil  to use as restraints (capsquare?)and painted them black.
The carronade looks good too. 
Did you know that the name ‘Carronade’ is derived from the Carron ironworks in Falkirk, where they were made.(Found this out doing family history research… one of my wife’s ancestors worked there!)

Moving along with the rear quarterdeck. The opening provided in the kit is not right (round opening) for the main mast: 
 

 
Therefore, it is necessary to perform some surgery.... and turn it into a square opening. I suppose the round opening may have been created to position exactly the sub-floors in relation to the main mast. We will give CAF the benefit of the doubt.....
 

 
Yves
 

Then, we have this issue that we discussed a few posts ago: the conflict between the main ladder and the rear capstan !! 
 
I finally found a way around it, by simply cutting two spikes of the main capstan to free up some space for the ladder: 
 

 

 
That fits and it still retains that working (no longer now...) capstan. I recommend gluing the ladder before closing the second half of the sub-floor.
 

 
All this precious and delicate work is now fully covered. It is one of the drawbacks on these large ships with their multi decks, hiding all the equipment underneath.
 

 
A few pictures of what should remain unseen..... :-(
 

 

 

 
Yves

I am now working on the railings in the mid-section of the ship: 
 

 
The space inside the bulwarks is filled with pieces of wood for the hull planking. They fit perfectly and are glued with Titebond for additional strength and stiffness: 
 

 
After a nice sanding, the top rails can be installed: 
 

 
Et voila...
 

 
Yves

Included in the kit will be a set of optional lodging and hanging knees. It'll be up to you if you want the extra work, but for the manual, I have to take one for the team! These are the hanging knees. The truncated ones are the parts that will be fitted where the gun port would otherwise be obstructed by the longer part. Of course, each part also needs to be specifically shaped to its position. Plenty of spares are supplied.
 

 
 
 
 
Here they are fitted, along with the lodging knees.

 
 
 
 
And the fore deck beams are now added, with the optional knees also installed, followed by the boat beams. These also have optional knees. 


 
 
 
And here she is so far!!
 

Time to install the sub-floors of the Forecastle and Quarter deck. For the Forecastle, CAF proposes two large pieces, which are covering 6 beams: 
 

 
That is not only difficult to size and adjust exactly, but it makes the gluing on the intermediate beams a little challenge. This is mostly due to the curvatures in two directions of these floors. In addition, CAF Model went with a 2mm thick plywood which is on the stiff side. I wish they had use 1.5 mm or even 1 mm thick, instead.
 
So, to get more precision and control about the gluing, I decided to cut these long parts in two: 
 

 
These are a lot easier to install and control.
 

 
The same is done for the rear quarterdeck: 
 

 
Cutting....
 

 
Time to glue all four parts: 
 

 

 

 
Overall view: a lot of the main deck details are occulted for ever.... so sad !!
 

 
I am approaching the Forecastle and Quarterdeck in this way for multiple reasons: 
I can work on the bow, catheads and rails on the outside of the hull....and use clamps. I can work on the mid-ship railings (see below) It gives me some time before putting together the second gallery, rear balcony and main rooms on the Quarterdeck.
 
Yves

Time to assemble the stove and install it into the kitchen. The stove is entirely made of Photo Etched parts, brass cast part for the socket of the chimney and a brass tube for the chimney.
 

 
Instructions are detailed, for once: 
 

 

 

 
I decided to solder the main body of the stove for added solidity and stiffness. All the other parts are glued with CA: 
 

 

 
I created a small base and simulated the bricks that are holding the stove and protecting the ship structure from the heat. The CAF kit has no provision for such thing.
 
The stove is painted Tamiya flat black: 
 

 

 

 

 
The insertion of the stove is delicate and the base is glued to the main deck: 
 

 

 

 
Unfortunately, not much is visible....oh well, at least, we know it is there.....
 

 
 
Yves