Fernando E

SESSION #3
Folks, I am starting a little bit Session #3. I have decided to leave Session #2.5 (my own...) for a later date, as I want to move forward and see how the main deck is going to fit. From now on, I will read.. (actually browse ) at the instructions and decide if I may take a different route. I think that in a lot of cases, it will be safer and clever to not follow exactly what CAF is suggesting.
 
However, as promised, here is the review of Session #3 with all its parts: 
 

 
You can see that I started cutting the rear deck E, on one side.
 

 

 

 
and all the wooden parts required to assemble the mid-size guns on the main deck. The larger guns parts were delivered in Session #2, without the brass barrels. Same here, no brass guns.
 

 
As you can see in the pictures above, it is all about the main deck.
 
Yves

- SESSION #2 is now completed - 
 
Session #2 is now completed. This was by far the largest, longest and most difficult session with 90% of the hull being built.
 
The original (read early...) CAF Session #2 kits included all the material and parts required to build the 28 large cannons (wood and brass). However, when I received my kit, the contents of Session #2 had been modified and the gun barrels in brass were no longer provided in the kit. They are now part of Session #5. I suspect it is a ploy to make you purchase all the sessions at once....
 
Thus, even though I have all the parts to build the guns, I will not include them in Session #2 and move them to Session #3, which is the building of the main deck. These large guns will have to be built before you can close the gun deck and cover it with the main deck.
 
First, a few images of the gun deck. It is simplified in a way, as 95% of it will not be visible in any ways: 
 

 

 

 

 
I have added some wood gutters to direct the dirty water pumped out from the base of the main mast (bilge). These are not provided in the kit.
 

 
I did not build the crankshaft and handles required to operate the pumps as nothing will be visible. There is plenty of "visible" work to be done and I did not have the patience and energy to build this kind of details.
 
A few pictures taken from the gun deck: 
 

 
The plan is to make the capstans rotate, when the main deck capstan are turned by hand. They will be coupled.
 

 

 
At this stage, the model weights close to 5 Kgs or 10 pounds and 11 ounces. It is heavy, large and will present a challenge to manipulate when the main guns are in place. The Future Floor provides a nice protection for the copper tiles and so far, I did not have any mishaps.
 
A few pictures showing the overall lines of the hull and where we stand at the end of Session #2: 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Let's talk briefly about the quality of the kit: 
The white wood to plank the hull is okay. I think it is Lime wood and is overall of decent quality. The 3 x 8 mm planks are hard to bend and will require some pre-bending on a jig after soaking them in isopropyl alcohol. Some of the planks are irregular in size (10 mm instead of 8 mm) and sometimes the thickness varies. Overall, CAF is rather generous and there is plenty wood left over to correct mishaps or to select the planks. For the copper tiles, I believe I should have convinced our readership to not go with the CAF tiles (expensive and too small) and use the 3M copper tape instead. The gun deck parts will require a significant amount of adjustments to make them fit in the hull. The planking of the gun deck could have been done inside the hull, with the risks of breaking all the knees used to hold the other decks. It is a lot easier to plank these outside of the hull. A better job than mine could have been done, but you have to choose your battles and realize that nothing will be visible beside the muzzle of the guns or the closed lids. The wales could have been laser cut instead of being simply made of strips. it is unfortunate that on such big kits, CAF does not provide you with pre-cut wales like Vanguard does on some of their models. The respect of the dimensions and exact assembly of the frames in Session #1 is paramount to the success of Session #2 and following sessions. What irritates me the most is the complete lack of instructions and guidance. The manual is just a collection of 3D computer based renderings and does not provide much help. Fortunately, I am learning a lot from the various people building these gorgeous and very well designed Vanguard kits. The kit does not call for any tree nailing and I like that approach. I have looked at a few pictures of restored period ships and cannot see any nails in the hull. I respect the desire by some modelers, to drill thousands of oversized holes in their models and fill them with small extruded bamboo nails, but it is simply not something for me. I will definitely do it for the main deck and upper decks but it does not make sense to do it on the hull, in my humble (and lazy) opinion.  
A few final pictures, showing the beast next to other 1/48th scale models: 
 

 

 

 

 
I will not start Session #3 immediately. There is plenty to be done on this hull, none of it being covered by the absence of instructions. I call it my Session #2.5 ☺️
Drill the scupperways on the wales. I will use the COREL plans to get an idea of their locations. Drill all the small holes for the gun lid lifting ropes. Brush an nth coat of red on the gun ports. Decide which ports will be closed and which one(s) will be open. Build the 28 large pounds guns and fix them permanently on the gun deck. Only after doing that, will I be in a position to start session #3. I also suspect that with Session 2.5 and 3, I may not be able to follow exactly the (lack of...) instructions and will have to introduce many parts normally assembled (and only available...) in Session #5. We will have to be creative and careful.
 
Yves
 

Some folks use the first layer of planking  as a learning cycle to properly plank the second layer rather than following the kit instructions.  Did you by chance study the planking tutorials here at MSW?  It would be a great help for you in the future, including the second layer of planking on this model.
Allan

Got some time yesterday and managed to get some hull work done

Pat,  I have set all the lower deadeyes in the channels and chained then down to the hull.  The shroud deadeyes are then caught in the shroud, the first lashing across the looped shroud, then two lashings up the shroud.  The holes in the deadeyes are lined up and then CA to fix the deadeyes in the right orientation.  I then lash the deadeyes together.
The twist I refer too is represented in the second shroud of the 1st pair where there is rotation toward the bow.
Please note that the odd colouring of the lower deadeyes is a result of dipping the deadeye and chains in brass black solution.  I plan going over the deadeyes and lashings with a black wash anyway....

Getting into the Shrouds on the Foremast.  I'm not glueing the mast in place so its position and straightness will be down to the rigging.  One thing I have noted using ropes of scale is that when I tension the shrouds, they twist.  I am putting about 5mm of tension into the Shrouds. I will have to go through glueing the deadeyes straight in the channels to remedy. The first four pairs are in with after installing a pair of Burton Pennants; one more pair each side before heading to the Fore and Aft Stays. 
I have also temporarily fitted the Jackstaff and the Jib Boom Traveller.

Well its time for rigging the ship so first things first, the bowsprit.
 
I am following the rigging sequence per Biddlecombe's "the art of rigging".  The inner and outer gammoning, Bobstay collar, both Bowsprit shroud collars and both Fore stay collars have been installed as have the bobstay, and shrouds.   I have also fitted the Bumpkin stays and my first thimble (for the Fore topgallant stay)
I will need to redo the outer gammoning as I only have 6 turns instead of the correct 8 (miscounted during install), and I have a further lashing to do on the bowsprit should deadeye.
 
QUESTION:  Where thimbles brass or iron?

Session #2 is coming to a closure soon. The decks have been installed and a couple of oak stain coats, applied. A gun deck reeks of powder, blood, urine and fear.... It just cannot be clean and of a light color.
 

 

 

 
I still have to build the capstans, pumps and the various grates to really call Session #2, completed.
 

 
In the meantime, a second coat of Future Floor on the copper tiles to prevent them the urge to run away, during the manipulations of this massive hull.
 

 

 

 
Et voila...
 

 
Yves

Still working on the gun decks: 
 

 
Some people may notice that the sections are not connecting. This is intentional, since this whole part of the vessel will be invisible once the main deck is built. In addition, it would be very impractical to plank in that deep hull and the risks of breaking the knees are not worth the trouble.
 

 
Through a closed gun port or by poking a gun in your eye, you will not be able to see much of the gun deck. That is the nature of the beast.
 
Yves
 

MAKING TREENAILS
Before starting treenail production I double-checked some measurements. This forum continues to be a great source of information!
 
From what I read, treenails appear to usually be around 1.1-1.3" in diameter. At 1:54 that's 0.020", or 0.5mm.
 
I used a ruler to keep a line against which to drill the treenail pattern. And carefully pre-drill the pattern across both decks.
 

 
Then I pulled some bamboo skewers I stole from the kitchen through my makeshift drawplate. I found that going through multiple times and at different angles helped shave off excess to downsize.
 

 

 

 
Finally, I pricked the treenail into some wood glue and pushed them gently with tweezers into each drilled hole, snipping off at the base. I've left these ones to cure and will cut down after a couple days.
 

PLANKING THE LOWER DECK
I visited the Endeavour's virtual tour to check the decks. I captured the 4 butt shift and treenail pattern for reference, and counted how many planks there were laid across the width of the ship at its widest point (totalling 31).
 

 
The lower deck is widest at 160mm, so 5mm per plank is close enough for me to totalling 31, with some wriggle room.
 
I opted to cut each length to 150mm; I'm not sure (and despite searching could not find) what the Endeavour's specific deck plank length was. 26' is usual, which translates at 1:54 to 146mm. Given the OcCre kit is probably closer to 1:51, I rounded up to 150mm length.
 
I followed the 4 butt lay, adopting the 1-3-5-2-4 pattern. To do this, I broke the length of the plank into 5 sections (each 25mm long), testing before gluing to the false deck.
 

 
I simulated caulking by running a 3B pencil over each edge of each board, including the ends.
 
I then brushed on Titebond to the false deck and laid each plank, starting from the centre.
 

 
I've completed the port side of the lower deck for now. I still need to complete the starboard deck and then develop a method for simulating the treenails.
 

 

 

Thanks for these figures, Allan -
 
I had started research and stumbled upon (across multiple sources, including the NRJ) the rule of thumb as the round camber (X) in inches for every foot of the ship's maximum beam.
 
So I ran some calculations (converting to my scale and mm) as such...
 
The formula = camber (max beam / foot)
= x(y/f)
 
HM Bark Endeavour maximum beam (y)
= 30.4'
= 171.59mm at my 1:54 ratio
 
1 foot (f)= 304mm
 
Quarter deck camber
= 6.5" / max beam (y)
= 6.5 / 30.4
= 0.21"
X = 5.33 mm
 
Therefore X(y/f)
=5.33(171.59/304)
=5.33(0.56)
=2.98 mm, or 3mm
 
Upper and forecastle deck camber
= 6 " / max beam (y)
= 6 / 30.4
= 0.197" 
X = 5.0 mm
 
Therefore X(y/f)
= 5(171.59/304)
=5(0.56)
=2.81 mm
 
So, the camber for the upper and forecastle decks is 2.8mm and for the quarter deck 3mm.
 
I then drew the max beam, cutting it a touch to reflect the distance from deck to deck rather than max beam (to 144mm), and cut it in half to 72mm.
 
I then created a temporary jig to hold both ends and measure cambers for 3mm (quarter deck) and 2.8mm (upper and forecastle decks) respectively.
 
To get the curve, I used a flexible piece of scrap wood between the three points.
 

 
And I now have two templates for the different cambers!
 

 
When the time comes I'll sand down pieces of wood as required to fit these templates.

Thank you, shipaholic - great point and I'll make note as I move into decking.
 
On inspection of the following section in the instructions and related componentry, none of the decks appear to have camber.
 
While the lower deck is no worry as it won't be especially visible, I'll need to add camber following shipaholic's suggestion to all other decks.
 
I'm going to do some digging to see if I can't find out what camber variations there may have been for the Endeavour (or equivalent ships of this period) between these decks. A rabbit hole to scurry down!

The HM Bark will be my second model ship; a birthday present from my partner and significantly more complex than my first build, the Bluenose II from AL.
 
As an Australian, the Endeavour holds a close place in my heart and I have visited the replica on my trips to Sydney countless times. The Endeavour is also much more widely available and built than other well-known ships of Australia's maritime history, like the Batavia, James Craig or Duyfken. A good place for a newbie to the hobby.
 

 

 
I opted for the OcCre kit after much research, choosing this kit as it appears somewhat more detailed and accurate than the AL, but not as much as a ramp up as the Caldercraft. One day I would like to complete the Caldercraft Endeavour, but want to learn more and hone my skills first.
 
Before opening the box, I ordered two resources to help me make updates to the kit to make it more accurate: Parkin's HM Bark Endeavour (1995), which is still in print, and Marquardt's Anatomy of the Ship (AOTS) HM Bark Endeavour, which appears out of print and proved a touch more difficult to find... but I was nonetheless able to secure a good secondhand copy.
 
I also purchased a good bit of various sizes of wood from Bud Nosen, including Bass, Cherry and Walnut to upgrade the kit supplied materials where needed, and restock my spares drawer.
 
TAKING STOCK
The first thing I noticed about the Endeavour is that she sure is chonky. Fat and short compared to the Bluenose schooner. The kit is also very large. My hand for scale... the Admiral is getting worried!😂
 

 
Before lifting a scalpel, I read through the instructions.
 
The OcCre kit did not come with pre-numbered laser cut parts, with the reference map instead provided at the back of the instruction booklet.
 
I carefully numbered each of the laser cut pieces for future reference. This will make it easier to find the pieces I need when I'm knee deep in build mode in the months to come.
 

 

 
 
FIRST CUTS
I replaced my scalpel blade with a fresh one, and carefully extracted the keel pieces, which are to be reinforced with two square blocks.
 
I lightly filed the off-cut tabs to ensure each part is flush (without distorting the shape), then glued the keel together with a touch of Titebond wood glue.
 

 

 

 

 
With one block pressed into place, I then clamped the keel to a flat board of basswood to ensure that the keel dries straight. This is a tip I found in Mastini's Ship Modelling Simplified.
 

 

 
My next step will be to carefully extract each bulkhead, dry fit and square in place on the keel, before glueing into place - potentially with some blocks to support alignment and rigidity. Any advice moving to this stage is welcomed!
 

STEADY PROGRESS
I am getting faster at making treenails, though it is by its nature a slow and careful job. My DIY drawplate is working well, though the soft brass is starting to deform, and I will be buying a Byrne's one for future models as I don't think it'll last another build.
 
Photos of the progress so far, where I've been careful to keep each treenail down to 0.5mm. 
 

 

 
ANECDOTES
A new book arrived in the mail today. This one, while focused on the very popular HMS Victory, also contains a sheer awe inspiring amount of detailed information, measurements and drawings common to ship modelling and especially to ships of this era.
 
This book I believe has the foundations to become a seminal cornerstone of my slowly growing maritime history and modelling library.
 

 

 
Just as a courtesy, I'll be taking a break from the ship for the next couple of days as we're going camping with some enthusiastic friends. It's supposed to rain so please wish me luck! 🥲
 
Thanks for following along!
Kristyn

PROGRESSING THE TREENAILS
I made some great progress on the treenails, finishing installing all on one side and half on the other.
 

 
Once the skewers had cured with wood glue for a good few hours and were sturdy, I then trimmed the excess off with a pair of side cutters as close to the deck as possible.
 
At this point, I needed to redo a couple that hadn't been installed far enough into the deck and came loose. 
 

 
As the final step I started to use a safety razor to cut close to the deck, ensuring each treenail was flush.
 

 
I'm pleased with the way these treenails are looking; small and close in colour to the deck enough that they're not too obstrusive.
 
This photo shows all treenails cut with side cutters (yet to be trimmed with the razor blade):
 

 
This final photo shows only some of the treenails cut to the deck with the razor (closest to the camera):
 

 
The treenails will be finished tomorrow and the lower deck installed on the keel and bulkheads.
 

INSTALLING THE LOWER DECK
I finished the final treenails and cutting them down with side snips and safety razor.
 

 
I'm pretty chuffed with how they look; nothing too over the top. While they certainly took some patience to install (not to mention my fingers took a beating), I'm happy with the effect and plan to emulate on the top decks.
 

 

 

 
When installing the lower deck, I noticed a visible gap between the two halves. Both false decks are butted squarely against one another; the gap is at the planking layer only.
 
I think I will replace the centre-most plank on the port side, and bring it over a smidge to better fill this gap, though I welcome suggestions.
 

 
Next is installing the top deck beams, and that all essential camber of 2.8 and 3.0mm depending on deck. To do this, I'll be scratch building a filler on top of the kit supplied beam supports.
 
Thanks for following along,
Kristyn

Thanks kindly for the recommendation on the chisel, Alan -
 
I've carefully chiselled down each treenail using this miniature Japanese chisel I have in my toolbox.
 

 

 
I then hand sanded down the deck, first with dry 240 grit, then dry 400 grit, before using wet 400 grit to pick up any loose fibres.
 

 

 
At this time I was able to apply a small amount of wood glue and use the sawdust from sanding to fill the large gap between planks between the two sides I noted previously.
 
I brushed the sawdust off with my model brush. I then wiped the deck with a damp cloth to make sure the whole thing was squeaky clean.
 

 
I applied a light coat of Vallejo's satin varnish, and will let it dry.
 

 
Some close ups of the final product (only three more decks to plank! Not to mention the hull! 😂)
 

 

Handrails on and holes filled ready for sanding.  Have made some preliminary progress with the transom; some cleaning up to do.  I have also mounted the channels and started on making up the deadeyes; 24 down, 22 more to 'wire up' before assembling and fitting to the channels.
The boom has been fitted and 'bolted" in place under the foremost bitts.  The catheads have also been installed as have the bumpkins.  You may note that the ships bell has not yet been fitted but as its a swinging bell I did not want to to go astray.  Some hatch covers have been installed on the STBD side too.

The bow section of the gun deck is now completed: 
 

 
Bitts and front mast holder.
 

 

 

 
And with a coat of oak wood stain: 
 

 
The overall color will become dull with time, matching the stern gun deck.
 
Yves

Time for a little check point on this long and delicate Session #2. The hull is partially completed although there is still a lot of detailing work to be done.
 

 
We still have a lot of parts left for Session #2 and tons of delicate work with the interior of the hull and the gun deck: 
 

 
I am going to start decking from the bow, since the stern deck (E) has been already put in place. The front deck requires some reworking and the CAD design does not exactly fit my model: 
 

 
Nothing major as you can see, just some adjustments necessary on such a large model. I will plank these decks outside of the hull for multiple reasons: 
Comfort of working and precision. The hull is deep and access is not easy. I do not want to place unnecessary stress on the hull, while trying to fiddle with the decks. It  is easy to break parts, especially inside the hull. Once completed, the gun deck should look like the picture below: 
 

 
As you can see below, I changed the order of assembly and kept the deck(s) installation for the end. So, let's get started with the bow....


 
Yves
 
 

The port side is almost completed. I still have to paint the gun ports, carefully.....and endlessly.
 

 

 
The stern is wide open and I am skipping the installation of the window frame as it would result in a broken part (8 windows wide): 
 

 
Same for the bow, which si coming in Session #4, after the installation of the main deck: 
 

 

 
The next big task of that endless SESSION #2, is the building of the gun deck: 
 

 
Overall view of the beast: It is starting to get heavy.....
 

 
Yves
 
 

ADDING BLOCKS TO THE BULKHEADS
I added some wooden squared blocks to help add rigidity and ensure the keel and bulkheads remain aligned.
 
To do so, I used some spare wooden 30mm cubes I had in the drawer, and divided them up into parts.
 

 

 
I used my coping saw to cut them to size. I am preparing my argument to the Admiral for the need of a good table and scroll saw.
 

 
I sanded down the pieces using my mini lathe, modified to act as a disc sander. I wasn't too particular with this as these blocks will be covered.
 


 
Then I clamped them at regular intervals on both starboard and port sides and left them to sit overnight.
 

 

The upper hull on the port side, has been planked and is now ready for its first coat of ultramarine blue: 
 

 
This will allow me to better see the numerous small imperfections that are always present on a model of such size.
 

 
Yes, there will be two to three more coats of yellow, with some sanding in between.
 

 
And of course, the fine detailing with a red brush.... After that, I will install the rails and we will be able to transition to the main gun deck.
 

 
Overall, I am glad I did not finish the gun deck and broke free from the sequence of instructions. Not having the deck in place, allows you to grab the hull using the bulkheads.
 
Yves

Well, after an Easter long weekend with a cold (negative RAT results) I have managed to get from stern to midships with the deck blocks and rings.  I have attached thread to all rings and blocks as well as sheaves in the bitt pins to make it easier to run rigging through them when the time comes.
Still have to attach cleats to transom, bulwark etc before I start mounting the bumpkins, catheads and bowsprit.