canoe21

I would guess that the weather had much more an influence upon the calculation ;-)
 
On cold windy days with a lot of spray I would guess, one would not have to wait to long for a seat to get free ...
 
By the way, small trivia, did you realise it in MaC, THE film, the sequence, in the pursuit in the icy stormy waether, everybody hanging in the shrouds to balance the ship, but one who appears to be sitting and easing off ?!? I think no good idea!
 
XXXDAn

Just wanted to remind you at the calculation that I already made earlier about the average stay time there and at my prove, that this was a mere leisure event :-)
 
#5589 I cite myself:
 
Some small thoughts ...
 
... with 800 men crew and 6 seats we get this optimized calculation:    800 men (NCO) / 6 seats gives 133 men/seat    In a optimized 24 hours use using all seats we get the following numbers:    24 hours = 1440 minutes    1440 minutes / 133 men = 10,5 minutes/man per day. This means no second wasted and the next user always stand by.    If you take account of that not the whole day it is possible to have this steady usage because of time, scedules and weather, the usage time per person sinks dramatically. If I remember well, constipation was widely spread, which leads to longer men mean residence time.    So the conclusion is, that the heads, regarding the weather, daytime and service schedule, could possibly be a quite crowded place at certain moments.    This account only includes the "big business". There still would be some persons too to be expected at the heads for the "small business", if they are not preferring hanging out in the shrouds (leewards): One hand for the ship and one hand for yourself - now that line is finally understood.    A quick research in German Law and regulations indicates the following:    Puplic Law of the State of lower Saxony says for a leisure event of 800 visitors the calculation should be:  800:100 x 0,8 = 7 seated toilets and 800:100 x 1,2 = 10 urinals (always rounded)    The Law of Working Spaces "Arbeitsstätten-Richtlinie, ArbStätt 5.037.1, vom 26. Juni 1976 (ArbSch. 9/1976 S. 322)"  for 250 employes one needs 10 seated toilets and 10 urinals, that means more than double for 800 employees.    In a converse argument that leads to the conclusion:  For a working place the ship should have 5 times more seated toilets and this leads to - that by the number of seats - the ship must be a leisure event - Join the Navy - see the better world!    Sehr geehrter Gruß, Ihr treuergebener Diener most sincerely, your humble servant,   dafi

Karl,
 
Thanks again! yes I think that this would be the easiest to do
I will add two blocks below the fore and main upper platforms, then just drill a hole near the tops of the fore and main upper masts.
There should be a sheave also inserted - don't think so - already too much to think about. - All of this rigging is very new to me, especially if I add sails. I am, however enjoying the learning--AND the help
 
Muy amable de tu parte para ayudar de nuevo (:-)
 
PS: Going to Colombia in a couple of weeks need to practice my Spanish 
 
Cheers
 

 

Hola Michael:
 
I am sending you the drawings of the BB Wasa, I am not sure if they are correct or not (as many other parts in the instructions), but anyway is better something than nothing.
 

 
 
 
Saludos, Karl

Hi Mates,
 
Need your kind advice, if you don’t mind.
 
As work continues on putting together the upper masts for all three masts, I realize that I did not think about (nor understand) what method should be correctly used for hailing the mid and upper yards.
 
I went to Anderson, but it still left me a bit confused.
 
Putting ropes over the cap does not appear in any Vasa model that I have seen including the 1/10th (but I have NO good pics of that area) And I assume that grooves would be needed in the caps?
 
PS: All lower yards for all three masts have pulleys cut into each mast – so that is easy enough (pulley may be the wrong term). That part I understand.
 
  
 
Then I thought that I would add a second ring under the caps, but then it seems that those are actually used for hoisting topmasts. Makes great sense, but then why need the fid??
 

 
That leaves two other options;
 
Drill another hole in the upper masts adding a pulley within – I think that I’m too far gone for that option
 
Or add two more blocks under each of the platforms to use to hail the yards. 
 
Last pic is obviously a complex and prob. 18th century vintage
 
The two extra blocks under each platform could be the easiest to do.
Any thoughts will be appreciated indeed.
 

 

Hi Mates,
Working on the mid-foremast installation - how I fashion the mast cap release pins;
====================
1) Using a small brass nail squeeze its head with standard size pliers.
 
2) Using a rotary tool smoothen (a bit) the now flattened head – top and bottom only
 
3) Drill a hole through the flattened head first measuring the drill bit so as to have it conform to the other nail that will serve as the vertical locking pin.
 
PS: the attrition rate tends to be high with this step –it’s hard to align the drill bit so that it remains centered and drills the hole where you want it to be on the flattened nail head (doing it without a drill press)
 
3) Then with a rotary tool flatten the sides to square off its look.
 
4) Now flatten the head of the other smaller nails
 
4) Blacken all the parts with Black Brass Metal Finish.
            Over time I do not think that black hobby paint will
            Stay adhered and may flake off (IMO) only.
 
5) I found that the tiny vertical lock pins tend to slide too low.
            So I use a super small smudge of CA as I insert the pins
            Holding the pin where I want it to remain.
 
6) Cut off the too long vertical pin ends
 
PS: Thanks mates for the help with the mast fid bits. I’m happy to have learned this detail. J
I think that it was Peter Jensen – I need to go back through to check your kind advice…
 

Hi Mates,
 
Happy New Year to all of you here at MSW J
And thank you Micke R for your interest in following along. Welcome aboard indeed.
 
So the New Year’s first shipyard “tweak” had to do with the bowsprit. After finishing up the galleries I moved to the fore area to finish tying up the foremast shroud deadeye ropes then, of course, thought hmmm.
 
So decided to first update some of that bowsprit previously completed area. As the bow area looked
 

 
Looked at a photo of the 1:1 and noticed this bit of left out detail. Then thought that I might as well also add the extra bits/paint that I had just completed at the stern area.
 

 
Used these rings as well as those left-over canon door hinges
And added an extra touch with these two great white markers.
 

 
Here are some updated shots of the extra details. I’m not sure about those little flattened hinges yet. May pull them and try to do something in wood instead, but I have absolutely NO idea how to carve details.
 
And last pic: (Added the white marker highlights to the gallery trim as well).
 
PS: The pillows were in case the Proxxon vice lost its suction allowing the ship to keel over. It happened to me once before. I have since learned that the Proxxon suction pad is actually very stable but it MUST be on a surface that has absolutely no pores (hence the piece of glass) and the pillow insurance, the first time I cranked the suction cup directly to that little white table in the photo and the ship fell over after about ten minutes. That resulted in a broken main mast lower top.
 
Cheers,
 

 

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for the likes, and thank you LMDAVE29 for being kind enough to want to follow along. Welcome aboard this very slow build…
 
Evolution of Corel Vasa galleries (Evolution because this area is now part of three years of on-and-off intermittent changes, and additions – finally - Done)
 
As it turns out got “side-tracked” again trying to add further details to the kit’s galleries (to be a bit more representative of the actual ship) after looking at the 1/10th TOO many times, and feeling bouts of frustration. So as I was (moving forward) attaching the mizzen shrouds, it mentally clicked that I could “play” with the galleries again just a bit more.
 
First, if you don’t mind, some changing looks of these for me “troubling galleries”; then the final finish.
 
First pic is out-of-the-box kit build per Corel’s official photo.
 
The next two are from a brilliant example of a right out of the box Euro commercial builder’s work. And he added sails J  - Posted only for comparisons to the kit provided bits…. Kudos to this builder’s excellent work.
 
 

 
What Corel supplied in the kit for, and my earliest attempt at adding initial extra details to the galleries (decided to initially scratch built in any case)
 
 

 
Early attempt at painting the very poorly represented guilded figures that Corel supplies in this kit.
 

 
That just did not suit - IMHO. So tried to instead “antique” paint the figures, and then also added a basswood border relief along the lower platforms of both galleries.
Though I am very happy with the many other guilded pieces that Corel included, and enjoyed painting those as they appear today.  
 
 

 
Added the circular opening in the forward bobbinets along with a basic wood trim ring. At that point I left this area alone thinking that I was done.
 

Revisited the area by adding painted white extra vertical bits, and those green decorative pieces on the bobbinets (sourced from a necklace at Michael’s art Supplies)
 

Added small basswood lower horizontal trim pieces as well to the lower bobbinets. And removed their forward wood rings adding decorative guilded pieces instead– same as those provided in the kit for weather deck cannon openings
 
(PS: Corel has ALWAYS been very kind in sending me any requested extra parts)
 
 

 
That was when I thought that I was (again) done “obsessing” over this area. Then another thought crossed my mind; decided to use anchor chain links, kit included lion heads and cannon door hinges to finally finish off this area’s detailing.
 
I kept referring back to photos of the 1/10th gallery details for help  --
 

 
So final solution –
Painted the chain link centers with green paint as well as the canon door hinge centers. Then added the two lion heads per side.
 
some pics of the finished efforts – I WILL leave this area alone now – I promised myself- Though the very last pic  - Still makes me nervous – ha ha
 
Cheers,
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Mates,
 
 
Finally installed the mizenmast. As I had previously noted I was going to add bracing pins to mizzen pulley housings.
Have been using this black nylon fishing line with great success for details such as this.
 

 
 
Thought it best to attach upper shrouds - off ship. Seemed much easier using the vice. Won’t have that option with main and foremast Hmmm.
 

 
Lower shrouds - I found easy to do
 
 

 
Added a rope wrap at lower mizzenmast. Also satisfied that I pulled out and rebuilt the deck bracing for that mast. My first effort was weak.
 

 
A few more general shots
 

 
Now onto the upper main, and upper fore bits, at least those parts have been built, and were patiently waiting in line. 
 

 
This might take me through the Summer 017 ha ha. Then I’ll go back and tightly secure all shroud tensions as well as wrapping deadeye ropes for all three masts.
 
Cheers
 

Hi Mates,
 
Patrick _ Thanks I do, in fact, have those plans AND never saw the fid there either. Nice bit of detailing on the part of Billings.
=========================
Mizenmast bits have all been put together. Some general pics….
 
A few personal quibbles;
 
Lower cap is too close to platform and prob. a bit too big,
 
Flag mast is too thick. hmmm
 
Will now attach upper mast shrouds to deadeyes and do ratlines as well before attaching mast to deck. Will add some of those bracing pins as noted in photo.
 
And, as always, thanks for the likes, helpful advice and just dropping by – always so appreciated.
 
Cheers,

Hey Michael
 
Nicely done as always
 
Here you have a picture of the other side
Taken in the museum.

 

Take a look at the Wasa plans from Billings.
Who also use a "fid"
 
BB490 Wasa_Instruction-2-min.pdf
 
Groetjes
Greetings
Patrick

Peter,
 
What's that song with --"Open your eyes"??
 
I've had that photo in my files and never "saw" the fid staring at me right in the middle of the photo. Looked at the photo for help with the platforms and totally ignored the masts - Gee whizz--But thanks so much for your guidance. much appreciated indeed. Now I will also add a fid to the main (:-)
 
Cheers,

 
Making some progress
 

 
 
 
 

Peter,
 
Thanks so much for your answer - super helpful - now I understand more (:-)
 
And thanks for your so kind words. The tops were a bit of a challenge, I'm comfortable with how they came out. 
 
Regarding your post - This is what I understood you to say. Hope that I got it right?
 

 
 

Hi Mates,
 
I NEED some advice, before I attach the two mizzenmast shafts together, I don’t know what should be the correct mounting?
 
Pic 1)
 
Lower main then attaches its mid shaft with the correct clamp and pins, along with the center pulley that will have a rope run through it – then attached to the lower cap on each side. This I understand – in case of a need to lower that mast.
 

 
Pics 2 & 3)
 
But – here is my confusion – for the mizzenmast I also added the metal brace and pins.
SO should the mid shaft of the mizzen be attached permanently to its lower mast with those two pins? (Excuse my lack of correct vocabulary)
 
Are those two pins correct?
 
As always thanks for the posts, and for the likes.
Thanks in advance for your advice for this bit.
 
Cheers,
 

Hi Mates,
 
Took some time, and now getting back to the yard. Here is a minor update (as mine seem to always be) so still working on the mizenmast putting the bits together;
 
••Fiddle blocks for mainstays (amazing how long these small bits actually take to put together) – nothing new here you have all certainly thought the same thing working on your builds—
 
••Lower cap along with its release clasp metal bits- done
 
••Completed the lower platform
 
••Finished the lower mast as well
 
So now - onto installing everything Hmmm….
 
PS: those two locking pins will be cut to proper size (:-)
 
Cheers
 

 
 
 
 
 

E.J, thanks glad to be helpful. It's nice that we all learn from each other (:-)
 
Buck, Don't know the bit size (all Greek to me). I just "eyeballed" it. (as I do all of them) hmmm
 
That said I really need to give a 5 Star review to the Proxxon Rotary tool AND I't Flex shaft. This shaft is SO precise. It accepts the absolute smallest of drill bits and rotates perfectly in line. Absolutely no wobbling whatsoever - bearings are absolutely precise. Love this combination tool, super dependable doing this kind of detailing.
 
PS: last photo is the supplied Corel platform along with its metal trim ring. FYI
 
==========================
 
Heading out-of-town for an anniversary celebration with my 19 year old girlfriend from 43 years ago xo
 
Cheers Mates
 

 
 

Hi Mates,
 
A little more work on the mizzen lower platform. Self-explanatory so keeping text to a minimum.  As always thanks for the likes.
 
Michael
 

 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for all of the kind words, very much appreciated.
 
Mizzenmast continued;
 
Getting used to the Proxxon – used it to open a slot within the mast for the single needed sheave
 

 
Added some lateral wood bits to shape the platform braces.
 

 
Now time for the pulley, glued together two pieces of wood. Rounded the wood by spinning it on a rotary tool, and using a Dremel sanding drum in counter rotation. Neat trick that I learned from another builder (though he was using this to make carriage wheels).
 
Lastly used a routing bit to add the groove, as the now rounded wood was spinning. The routing bit needs to be held very stiffly because it wants to wander sideways, which would destroy the groove edge. Took two attempts to get this one right. 

 
Put the mast aside for now, and working on the platform base. First photo is of the three lower mast platforms, along with their relative size differences. 
 
The foremast platform is not configured quite right, but I built it before I discovered the reference that I used for the main, and now for the mizen platform. These also take a bit of time, as they end up with many tiny parts that need to be fashioned.
 

 
There must be an easier way of making the rings? If anyone has an easier procedure I’m up for it ---
 

 
 
Cheers,
 
 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Small update. Now working on the mizen mast installation, or should I say –re-working that area again.
 
Turns out that the framing I had installed (quite a while ago) was incorrect, and the mast (per Corel) was too thin;
 

 
so reconfiguring was needed.
 

 
Made a new mast deck framing more with the shape of the 1/10th. Not sure about that center darker piece (don’t know what I was thinking). Also edging trim details were not added, but its an improvement.
 

 
More noticeable Corel errors that I did not know about when I first started this build, and when I was mostly building “out of the box” referring to Corel’s plan sheets
 

 
Will update as this moves forward (lower mast and platform)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Peter,
 
This is the book. I was not too clear in my post.  
PS: I went through your Lotus build log - brilliant work indeed. Thanks for sharing. 
 

Dave, thanks indeed. One of these days I may get to your level with interior lighting.
 
Martyn, JanV is right. This has been discussed with we Vasa nut cases. And yes that new DAgostini looks to be excellent. Even the canon artillery is correct.  Though it is a very big model. In a way I’m relieved that it will not be available in the USA, I would be too tempted. Too few here probably know much about the ship. This, of course, is not the case in Europe. The vasa Museum is one of the most popular in Europe. So for modelers the Vasa is a well known ship.
 
E.J, This is only my second model ship. The first one was soooo many years ago. Did some other hobbies (plastic) in between, but always wanted to get back to wood. Here is one that fell through the cracks. Needs to be completed. Hmmm.
 

 
Back to wood -pitting aside the falconets for a bit after redoing the vertical frames and instead starting the mizzenmast and its platform.
 
 
Thanks, mates for your continued interest
 
Cheers,
 

 
 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for dropping by -always;
 
EJ_L  Yes, my thoughts as well – but needed to make the changes. They would have indeed bugged me J
 
Edwin-  always a pleasure when you drop by and comment –thanks !
 
Buck, see my notes below regarding wheel sizes as well as carriage framing. Thanks so much for your thoughts.
 
Mark, see last pic lol
 
JanV, yes a bit of a headache trying to add arguably a bit too much detail. But I am mostly enjoying the challenges.
 
Dave & Patrick Thanks for your suggestions and photos.  Good idea on the angling. Dave point well taken indeed,,,
 
Some thoughts –strictly for edification, not as complaints.
 
Mentioned before; Vasa was mounted with many diff. size artillery. I chose the two that are circled as my guides for the main weather deck, and the two falconets for the quarterdeck. Chose to replicate the looks of the carriages and their wheel sizes.
 
Even so the actual artilleries are all wrong. (Casting is way above my skill set – forever!!) So after-market examples were good enough; actually very nice indeed. Huge improvement over Corel included examples (as with most kits)
 
Note Clayton Johnson’s amazing work in these two photos.
 

 
In regard to carriage spacing, note the actual carriage length beyond back of cannon. I had originally built all carriages in this correct way, but subsequently realized that I needed to trim the entire overhang away in order to have the carriages fit more properly onto the too narrow weather deck. Again Corel!!.
 

 
Main deck (no forecastle) seems better scaled. Though I still needed to cut carriage overhangs. Also - I know that I need to re-paint my knighthead figures (PS; weak quality castings)

 
For the dummy carriages in the upper and lower gun decks, well that was a gift ha ha.

 
So working on the fix for the quarterdeck falconets. Smaller blocks are the first step, scaling also looks better.

Chuck and his Syren Comp.  We are very good acquaintances. In fact all rigging are also from his company, excellent quality products indeed; well deserved plug Chuck…

 
 
 

Maybe something like this.
 
in the museum there is a reconstructed part of the hull
 
Some of the guns are arranged inclined (angled).
 

ps,
You might get in trouble when the door must be opened .
 



 
 
 
 
Greetings Patrick

Hi Mates,
 
A rather frustrating bit here with these falconets. First, as has been discussed Corel’s deck is too narrow. So carriages tend to be too close to each other in any case.
 
OK then the double blocks that I am using, as I had thought earlier, are a bit too large.
 
When laced with carriage single blocks they run into each other.
 
Then pulled the carriages away from the hull sides a bit, but as you can see they are (the carriages) way too close to each other now.
 
Then ha ha  I also realized that the blocks and tackles were way too close to the cannons on each side.
 
After looking at the other installations, realized that cannon vertical framings are double pieces, allowing for the blocks to mount a bit away from the carriages (pic 4)
 
Well as you can see in last photo – time for a fix again.
 
Cheers as always,
 

 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for the “likes” much appreciated, as well as for your visiting this shipyard. 
 
Finished up the falconets. Install will be easy compared to the busy work that these little pieces required, but I am pleased with the results. Pics are self-explanatory so keeping this brief.
 
PS: I simulated the axle braces and the metal framings attaching cleats by using a small drill bit and barely indenting those surfaces. The illusion works well enough to look as if these parts are in fact properly attached to the carriages, I think J
 
The washers that became wheel caps were sourced from a model railroad hobby company. The washers are a bit too large, but I did not want to increase the size of the wheels. Close enough hmmm.
 
Cheers,