canoe21
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canoe21 reacted to herask in LENA by IgorSky - FINISHED - scale 1/290 - BOTTLE - steam schooner
you people doing these are all insane!! this is incredible!!! that little thing on your finger... O.o kudos, and good luck with final parts!
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canoe21 reacted to IgorSky in LENA by IgorSky - FINISHED - scale 1/290 - BOTTLE - steam schooner
Many thanks, Patrick!
I think that all these actions were simple enough, as you can see in the photo. I'm a little disturbed by some of the forthcoming stages.
Best Regards!
Igor.
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canoe21 reacted to captainbob in SS Mariefred by captainbob - 1:96
Nils, My preference is to build in 1:48 but I live in a smaller house now. Now I build to keep the finished boat less then 15" long.
Bob
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canoe21 reacted to captainbob in SS Mariefred by captainbob - 1:96
I finally got a start on the Mariefred. The drawings I received from the museum in Stockholm were the best drawings I have ever received. When I get drawings of a boat the first thing I do is scan them into my computer and open them in an ancient copy of AutoCad. Then I check length, breadth and height as though I were designing her. Usually there are errors that must be corrected. But these drawings lined up and were correct. When designing a boat the designer draws one side of each bulkhead these then have to be redrawn and each one needs to be mirrored to make a full width bulkhead. These are then transferred to and cut out of wood sheet and mounted on a board. That is where I am at the moment.
Bob
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canoe21 reacted to EJ_L in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
I have a similar problem coming up on my build with the lamp arm. One thing I have done which has helped in the past is to mount the base of the arm on the side of a forward corner. This still allows it to swing to all the places that I need but also keeps it in front of the ship so there is less chance of it hitting a mast. Combining that with the lights on my OptiVisor, I am usually covered for safe lighting.
Another option you could try would be to mount the base on the wall higher than your model. Then you can pull the light down and the arm swing should be above all your work instead of next to or behind it.
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canoe21 reacted to donrobinson in Trabakul by donrobinson - FINISHED - MarisStella - 1:32 scale
Hey Mike, Thanks for stopping in. The stove stays on deck, I am still unsure as how I will secure it as I would think it might have been portable. The coin I just heated it up pounded it with hammer until thin enough then just shaped over a 1/2" steel rod. I should have taken some pictures. If I get the chance I will do it again and document
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canoe21 reacted to HIPEXEC in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
The door has been disconnected since I moved in 5 years ago. Thanks for the tip, though.
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canoe21 reacted to HIPEXEC in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
Hallelujah! All my starboard side gunports match the supplied template!
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canoe21 reacted to HIPEXEC in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
Here's the aft gunport repair. It looks straight now. I guess I made one or more lintels too snug and they put lateral stress along the whole series of lintels. When the bulkhead was cut it allowed the stress to relieve itself with an upward bulge. Moral of the story....do not make lintels too snug.
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canoe21 reacted to HIPEXEC in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
The instructions said to wait until the last frame before sawing bulkhead #24 because the structure will now be very strong. They were right. I had no trouble sawing through the bulkhead frame. If you remember....these same frames were very fragile when first installed.
I then lightly sand the frame smooth, so I can glue the the gunport sides. These side do not appear to be square with the frame.
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canoe21 reacted to HIPEXEC in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
I glued in the first gunport sides. Some sides are not as thick as most. The great news is there will only be a small amount of sanding to fair these pieces once installed since they are almost net size.
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canoe21 reacted to HIPEXEC in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
I used the port and starboard templates provided to mark the gunport sides. I was surprised that it was a harder task than meets the eye. The goal is to get gunport symmetry, but on a couple I had to tweak them a millimeter or so? Go figure. This frame is as straight and square as I can make it, but it is off just a tiny bit?
(I placed the template in the photo just to show you what it looks like. When making the marks it has to be fixed up tight to the gunwale.)
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canoe21 reacted to HIPEXEC in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
Still sanding lintels. My shop looks like it snowed and I'm not finished.
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canoe21 reacted to HIPEXEC in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
Let the fairing begin!
There was a tremendous amount of excess material on the lintels, so I rough faired the lintels with my Dremel, and now the tedious task of smooth fairing the lintels on both sides. In the pic you can see the bent plank I use for a gage along with the various sanding sticks I use.
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canoe21 reacted to HIPEXEC in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
I'm working up the energy to start sanding, so to still stay busy without sanding, I built a 15/32" X 15/32" square jig to help me when I start making the gunport sides. Somehow using a jig to supplement my eyeballs will give me square gunports.
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canoe21 reacted to Heronguy in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
Hi Rich,
It does look like a fair bit of fairing! But then the gun port framing! Leave me lots of good advice for when its my turn!
Great progress though.
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canoe21 reacted to HIPEXEC in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
Well it took me a while to figure out how to post this picture. New site is pretty, but an old dog like me is slow to learn new tricks.
Anyway, I rough finished the lintels. Now I will spend a bunch of time fairing and squaring all of them before proceding to the next step.
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canoe21 reacted to HIPEXEC in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
I didn't disappear. I'm still working on the rough lintels. Should finish soon, then begin fairing and squaring them all.
BTW...I put some masking tape over the pre-drilled mast holes so they don't fill up with debris.
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canoe21 reacted to HIPEXEC in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
I installed the first lintel last night using my spacer. There's a lot of excess material at the top of these bulkhead extensions. That means a lot of sanding! See you in 23 more lintels.
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canoe21 reacted to HIPEXEC in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
I made this gunport jig or form to make it easier to install the gunport lintels. It's 15/32" high.
I must say...this is a lot of figuring and work to make gunports and gunwales!
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canoe21 reacted to HIPEXEC in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
I finished sanding the port side sill. You can see the plank I bent on to use as a sanding guide.
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canoe21 reacted to HIPEXEC in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
I rough finished the port side gunports. I drew a line between the bulkhead extensions with a tick to show curves so I do not sand too much off. Once you sand it off there is no putting it back on.
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canoe21 reacted to HIPEXEC in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
l finished fairing the starboard sills, but I had to violate my own rules about touching my ship with power tools. I started sanding and realized I would still be sanding two weeks from now, so I drew a "do not go past" line on the sills and used my Dremel to get rid of most of the extra wood down to that line, then hand sanded the last 1/32". So much for my "rules"
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canoe21 reacted to HIPEXEC in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
As per the instructions, I nailed a temporary batten along the starboard side so when I set the gun port sills they will flow smoothly along the side.
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canoe21 reacted to HIPEXEC in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
I looked very far ahead in the plans about masting. The instructions say to carve a round tenon on the heel of each of the two masts. Since I am terrible at carving symetrical anything, so I Center drilled the mast material provided in the kit and will glue a dowel to fit that hole. That will be the heel of each mast. Then I drilled holes the size of the dowels in the bulkhead frame to the correct rake angles. The fore mast is almost perpendicular while the aft has a considerable aft rake (on the Argus plan,)
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