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    Ontario, Canada
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    Skiing, weaving, physics.

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  1. Hello Heronguy,

    I am a teacher at Hale School in Perth Australia www.hale.wa.edu.au

    I am designing an investigation for a group of our boys who will be staying very near the wreck-site of the Barque Stefano. Hale School is building a remote campus there and the Stefano story will be at the heart of the boys immersion into the areas history. So, I was intrigued to see your site and the wonderful model you are constructing. I have attached a planning document of the investigation I am designing. I wondered if you had any dimensions available to you of the cargo hold I could use to validate the projects outcomes?  with thanks for your time Michael Valentine Hale School Email  mlv@hale.wa.edu.au 

    Exmouth DL; Barque Stefano Cargo investigation.docx

  2. Good to see you back Pierre. Looking forward to seeing your progress again. Doug
  3. Planked and 2nd planked the deck Since I didn't scribe the planks before mounting them I had to resort to a chisel to create the plank joints. Then tried to drill trenails. A pin vis resulted in broken bits so I tried using the sensitive drill attachment on the mill. That worked pretty well but couldn't do the whole deck. I ended up using a small rotary tool to finished the drilling. Far from a precision job but it seems to look OK.
  4. The Essex has been adorning a corner of my desk for the past few months. Some progress since my last post but not really much time has gone into it. The rigging of the yards left me unsure how to proceed so I've been just enjoying what is there. Time to start up again! The most fun getting here has been the "outrigger eyelets" (Aeropicolla term) perhaps more correctly called the "studding sail boom irons" (Mondfeld) or "boom brackets" (Takakjian). I tried 3 different approaches - the wood from the kit, a brass strip bent into shape and soldered, and a brass bar milled on a Sherline CNC mill. The results were: The CNC milling was a nice little learning project; Programmed the g-code to mill the outside the bracket Ran the program on a thick piece of stock cutting only part way through the stock. Drilled the inside holes, then milled off the underside of the stock to free the bracket. I tried I couple of different thicknesses to choose a pleasing appearance. Then ran the milling program 3 more times to make the rest of the brackets required.
  5. On to building the armaments. I will use the kit supplied carronades and carriages A simple jig to hold the carriage sides was made by slightly widening the kerf from the table saw. The brass carronades and long guns were blackened with Casey "Brass Black" Assembly to follow.
  6. It has been a long hot summer and most if it has been away from the shipyard. Nevertheless there has been a bit of progress. I've finally committed to a companionway and main cabin design. Of the two implementations: I chose: The cabin and companionway and well as the hatches were made from boxwood milled here. In addition I mounted the hull on the launchways.
  7. Don, I'm looking forward to planking now that my fear of an earlier mistake has diminished. I was concerned that the stern section wasn't deep enough to allow for the deck. Now that the balsa block has been carved out I'm happy to say that it is OK.
  8. Funny about that popeye - I feel cross-eyed! In any event planking a deck seems very different than planking a hull.
  9. Thanks Chuck. Good explanation. I'm certainly using Syren rope as my benchmark to determine when I eventually get it right! It's kinda fun trying. Being a bit of a technophile it is appealing to me to tryout these various tools.
  10. Thanks - new to the process and still learning. I have over-twisted on a few attempts so I'm probably over-compensating somewhat. When you refer to "tensions" are you saying each strand having equal tension or are you suggesting additional weight to increase tension on all the strands? I'm presuming the latter.
  11. it's taken a long time to get back to the rope making experiments. I have done a few trials both to learn the tools and to evaluate the ropes that I can make with the yarns at hand. I'm using a Domanoff Planetary Ropewalk for the fine yarns and then the Domanoff Prosak v3 for the heavier rope (made from the strands that came off the Planetary). The threads I've tried out are the 90/2 lace linen, 60/2 lace linen, and some ne50 Cotton. The cotton tread is Gutermann ne50 packaged for quilting machine in 800 meter spools. The cost was under $10CDN The ropewalks allow 3 or 4 strand ropes at each stage (with or without centre-core) I've started to make a table of resulting rope sizes in various configurations but have not done an exhaustive list. I was disappointed in the 60/2 black linen as it was quite dull in appearance and somewhat "slubby". Oddly enough the 90/2 linen (tan) and 60/2 linen (tan) both produced good rope. The cotton rope was also quite good. The smallest rope I've made has been 0.015" the largest 0.047" Here some of the ropes shown coiled on a dowel to measure diameters I'm using some of the cotton rope 3 strands of (ne50 3 strand) .8mm (.032") for my Essex Cross-section shrouds. It is on the left - the rope on the right is .025" from Syren Ship Model Company ( the closest size that I have).
  12. The 2nd planking is done and there is lots of it. I've enjoyed the exercise but I'm pleased to be on to a new step. And like others who have gone before me I wanted to see what the hull would look like with a coat of wipe-on-poly My intention is to follow build instructions and paint above the waterline and copper below so we won't see the beech wood in a while.
  13. I haven't yet developed any affection for deck fittings but then again most of my model ship building has involved planking hulls! I really have to move on to the rest of the ship! I gather you enjoy fitting out the decks, your builds always have pretty cool fittings - something to learn from.
  14. I'm told its is beech (see Don Robinson's build log). The parts list for the kit says it was to be walnut but it clearly isn't! The beech is very easy to work with (at least at this thickness - I don't have any other experience with it)

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