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    Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    Skiing, weaving, physics.

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  1. There a several builds on this site. In addition when I was starting my build I found the following site: Online I found a set of articles on this model produced by John H. Earl (http://www.modelboatyard.com/bluenose2.html). I decided to follow his instructions. (John is also an MSW Member). There are a couple of versions of the AL Bluenose II that differ from each other. The kit I have was #20500. The newer one is #22453. I have the 20500 manual that someone sent to me since my kit was missing the english language instructions. If you have that version I could forward them to you.
  2. I emailed with John Garcia at Model Shipways and he confirms that he has no problem with your scanning the manual of the Prince De Neufchatel.  I much appreciate your help.  What can I do?



  3. Ya can’t steal what’s freely given! I agree that it works well on the slots. I was using a sanding stick and found it was splintering the plywood a bit. This method worked much better for me. (Quicker too)
  4. I have received the new plywood. I'll have to get back to the print shop to get the 11x17 sheets but I have lots to do 'til then. Now starts the task (2nd time around) of cutting and sanding the formers and bulkheads. I came across a YouTube video of a DIY scroll saw sanding blade. The trick was double sided tape and a used saw blade. Seems like a useful way to clean up the areas where neither the disk sander or spindle sander will reach.
  5. Denis, Don, It's nice to be back at it. I hope the momentum will build. When is your Stefano back on the bench Don?
  6. Once the waterline was established the hull above was painted black. It was time to install the wale (called a rubbing strake in the instructions). This proved to be a bit of challenge for me. I was aware from early in the build that I may have made the stern curve too soon losing a deep enough flat (vertical area). Once the planking was done I was thinking I "got away with it" but it came back to bother me in fitting the wale. I just couldn't get the run of the wale to work out After much agonizing and fiddling I pushed ahead and finished the task. Although the wale at the stern does not lie flat on the hull I think from the normal viewing perspective (i.e. slightly above looking down) it looks OK. However the gap is there and is pretty obvious on close inspection. A compromise in favour of my sanity.
  7. Once the timbers were in place it was time to drill some holes in the hull (mooring line openings, scuppers, anchor shafts, rudder post etc) and assemble the blocks
  8. To position the top timbers I printed out the deck plan and used it to guide the installation. A small jig was used to place the strips vertically.
  9. Last autumn's work! The waterway is made from a walnut strip. Edge bending the strip at the bow and the stern did not work for me! For the gentle bow curve I cut some narrower strips, bent each of them, and then glued them together. The same approach was not feasible for the stern due to the sharp curvature. Instead I milled a small walnut sheet from which I could cut out a curved section using a print of the deck plan as a template. I cut three sections to there would not be weak cross-grain section Precision smooth curve was a challenge for me but it turns out this section will be under a grating so will not be visible for close inspection and I think I can count on my own memory soon forgetting that I left it like this! Next step is to add the top timbers.
  10. The calipers say 17/64” (.264” .666mm). Yes the ply is a bit rough and was g1s grade. Your comments make me consider heading to a bigger centre to purchase better plywood. I can chalk this one up to a practice sheet! I am at least comfortable with my little scroll saw.
  11. Just lucky I guess. Local building supply store. Nothing there dimensioned in metric so that doesn’t likely explain it either.
  12. The last 2 pages in the Chapter One notes from Chuck show his board and supports - you can estimate sizes from that.
  13. Plans have been printed and the the 1st dust created. I was expecting to need to purchase a scroll saw for this build but noticed a post here (can't find it to give credit) that the dremel motosaw did the trick for the bulkhead former and bulkheads. So... These are cut from some inexpensive plywood as a test. I don't have easy access to Baltic Birch ply for the bulkhead former so I may go ahead with this wood. I will recut the bulkhead with the exterior ply running vertically to reduce the amount of chipping at the pointy parts. This plywood is a bit more than 1/4" so I've had to make the slots in the bulkheads and BF a bit wider to fit. It turns out it is easier to cut close to the correct size 1st and not try to widen the slots after. I kinda botched the efforts on THAT process so I'll recut the BF. All part of the learning!
  14. With trepidation I'm starting this project. I will be attempting to scratch build the components although I'm likely to take advantage of special mini-kits like lanterns and carvings. I have most of the tools I need for a scratch build but not much useful experience! I'm happy to follow the suggestion and stick with cedar for the build. I have too many unfinished projects to warrant starting another. However this one pulled me in both by the promise of learning some new skills and by the (probably optimistic) belief that I can multitask several builds at different stages completion. It is also motivation to be part of a group project. Chuck's willingness to mentor the group is a great plus. Cha Gheill

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