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    Ontario, Canada
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    Skiing, weaving, physics.

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  1. I was just gifted with a set of blueprints for the Zulu Muirneag. Plans were drawn by Harold Underhill in the 1950's. His book "Plan-on-Frame Models" has reduced version of three of the plans. I can't use the blueprint set so they're listed in Traders... One source of detail.
  2. Thanks for the advice. I had cut the frame guides from some 3/64" sheet but couldn't get them to stay in place even with rubber band pressure. Clearly then 'll have to unglue the ST-CD upright and adjust the slots until things more closely match the framing guide.
  3. Now I have run into some difficulty and would benefit from advice! I'll preface my problem with a reminder that I had decided to try to scratch build. To me that meant milling my own wood and using Chuck's plans to cut out all the pieces rather that using the lasercut components. I did purchase the chapter 1 laser cut material as a reference. So far I have used it only to compare my scratch bits with the precision ones. (aside : as I look at quarter gallery description in Chuck's build log and the more advanced builds in this group I'm questioning my hubris at attempting this - oh well) To the stern. I slapped it together with the hope that things would lie just right. A quick visual inspection showed that ST-A on the port side was a little low but maybe that didn't matter (I've subsequently fixed that). I printed the stern frame guide to use as a visual check on the stern uprights - printed on clear acetate so I could put it on the outer surface. Things didn't look too good! Printed again on paper so I could glue it to be inside surface for an easier view. The middle three uprights I could coax into alignment with the draft quite easily but the outer one are very rigid and not able to be coaxed with pressure. (BTW this image is before I fixed ST-A(port)) I figured I was going to have to remove ST-CandD from both port and starboard, change the angles of the slots in bulkheads 28&29 and iterate until I got a better visual. However before starting that I thought to try the stern window guides to see how well they fit. They weren't bad so I I tried the upper sills. Here I had another disappointment. Using the laser cut sills to check it appears the the port side fit nicely but the outer two on the starboard side don't. As Chuck describes in the chapter 1 notes the guides will fall out if the sills need a bit of tweaking. When I see how far out the starboard ST-C&D upright is I'm a a loss for what I should do to try to salvage what's here. Advice gratefully accepted!
  4. You're motoring' along I can see I'll have to catch up to you!!
  5. Heronguy


  6. here are the instructions Bluenose II AL20500 Instructions.pdf
  7. Hi Popeye, i had scans of the instructions that I sent off to sandcastle. All is well
  8. I have scans of instructions for my version of Bluenose II ans well as the later version from Artesania Latina. That I can send.
  9. One of my 1st build was the Bluenose II. I hope your enjoying it
  10. Nemo, don’t despair, there are good options and some of them are listed on the site - sponsors like Model Expo and Syren Ship both carry supplies you’ll need. Crafty Sailor , which is local to you has a range of fittings. I get things like acrylic paints or Tamiya masking tape through Great Hobbies which probably has a store near you. your best bet might be to start a build log and/or ask some specific questions on the appropriate Shop Notes topic.
  11. I'm used to seeing the planks narrow at the bow. I wonder if that will improve the lay of the planks for you?
  12. The kit instructions simply suggest attaching a small eye pin with the twisted wire holding the deadeye. The stem of the eye pin is inserted into a drilled hole in the rail and affixed with glue. Once again I had to use CA to bond the wire to the wood. (The chainplates mounted on the hull are not connected to the deadeye - just simulating the practice on the actual ship) I’ve “tested” each one with a good tug to see if they may hold when under tension from shrouds and don’t expect too many challenges there! A long time from now at the current rate!!!
  13. The coppering is going to be a long term project. I expect to get perhaps 10-20 plates per hour. I am using CA glue despite my general dislike of the substance. This is a pretty big hull. Makes me glad the Winchelsea won't be coppered!!
  14. I think it is looking good. If I’m able to generate a bit of firewood along with planking the model then I’ll be ahead of the game😁. I suppose you you don’t need as much kindling in FL You’re doing a good job and leading the way! Perhaps we’ll get a group build soon?

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