hamilton

Time for another quick Sunday update. I have a "week off" work this coming week (not really off fully, but without as many calls to my attention as usual) so I hope to make some forward progress on Bellona. For now, this post will document the first part of the stern framing.
 
Several transom frames are installed on the aft side of the stern bulkhead assembly and another bulkhead piece is slotted down onto these to lock them in place. There were a few minor adjustments needed to get everything to fit nicely and snugly, but this was not too tricky an operation. One photo you see below makes it seem as if there is some real asymmetry here - but I promise you this is an illusion produced by my iPhone based sub-amateur photography. You'll see in the photos how I drilled and filed out square sections on bulkhead 16 to mark the position of the stern chasers.
 
The other work documented here is the marking out and installation of the filler piece for the f'csl cabin bulkhead and for the aft quarterdeck support. In one photo you can see where I've marked out the position of the king plank on the main deck for later installation.
 
The balcony is fit atop the transom frame pieces, which (as you'll see) need to be adjusted for a slight camber prior to installing the balcony. The last part of the stern framing (which is the next stage of the build to be completed this week I hope) will be to add framing and filler pieces for the quartergalleries and to install the stern balcony. Then it's onto the other decks, which are a bit of a puzzle - particularly the two-part quarterdeck, which the plans seem to indicate is installed after the poop deck, but which I think will be easier to install beforehand. I have to consider the sequence of the coming stages carefully as I feel like it might be easy at this point to build myself into a corner....This is, after all, the first multi-deck model I've built (apart from Blandford, which was smaller and much simpler than this).....
 
Enjoy the photos and happy modelling
hamilton

Hiya Hamilton, I've just come to that same conclusion, I started the stern framing today, and I'll get on to the first planking after that, and I'll leave the quarterdeck and poop for when the hull is a lot more stable.
 
I've fixed the broken bulkhead with a peg but it's difficult to get the alignment right.  I'll keep trying.
 
Look after yourself in the snowy north.

Time for another quick Sunday update. I have a "week off" work this coming week (not really off fully, but without as many calls to my attention as usual) so I hope to make some forward progress on Bellona. For now, this post will document the first part of the stern framing.
 
Several transom frames are installed on the aft side of the stern bulkhead assembly and another bulkhead piece is slotted down onto these to lock them in place. There were a few minor adjustments needed to get everything to fit nicely and snugly, but this was not too tricky an operation. One photo you see below makes it seem as if there is some real asymmetry here - but I promise you this is an illusion produced by my iPhone based sub-amateur photography. You'll see in the photos how I drilled and filed out square sections on bulkhead 16 to mark the position of the stern chasers.
 
The other work documented here is the marking out and installation of the filler piece for the f'csl cabin bulkhead and for the aft quarterdeck support. In one photo you can see where I've marked out the position of the king plank on the main deck for later installation.
 
The balcony is fit atop the transom frame pieces, which (as you'll see) need to be adjusted for a slight camber prior to installing the balcony. The last part of the stern framing (which is the next stage of the build to be completed this week I hope) will be to add framing and filler pieces for the quartergalleries and to install the stern balcony. Then it's onto the other decks, which are a bit of a puzzle - particularly the two-part quarterdeck, which the plans seem to indicate is installed after the poop deck, but which I think will be easier to install beforehand. I have to consider the sequence of the coming stages carefully as I feel like it might be easy at this point to build myself into a corner....This is, after all, the first multi-deck model I've built (apart from Blandford, which was smaller and much simpler than this).....
 
Enjoy the photos and happy modelling
hamilton

Here's my progress so far.  I got the frames for the foc'sle on and planked it the same way as the main gundeck.  I'd got a pack of Chinese walnut on eBay, and She Who Must Be Obeyed said it might be nice if I outlined the gratings in it.  Historical accuracy went out of the window, and I did as I was told.  I think it looks quite nice though. Chinese walnut seems to be a lot darker than the European, so it gives a better contrast against the Tanganyika. 
 

 
 
When all the deck furniture is fitted, and the masts and rigging are up I think that will blend in nicely.  You can see the broken frame I've mentioned before, frame 12, I'll have to try and make a dummy bit to form the planks on to.  It won't be visible from the inside, as the quarter deck will cover it up, but I'll know it's there.
 
Next job is the quarter deck, but I'm debating whether to put some upper hull planking on first, so I can cut gunports and fit the four cannon that go under the quarter deck first.   Any suggestions gratefully accepted.
 
 

great to see you and chief williams doing this model.....like i said before Hamilton.....it has every emotion contained in my Bellona....so very nearly got binned but so glad I continued with it....

I installed the two part deck after the poop deck and cant remember it being difficult or awkward, but it may be easier the other way round....remember the belay rack which is underneath the quarter deck.  

Time for another quick Sunday update. I have a "week off" work this coming week (not really off fully, but without as many calls to my attention as usual) so I hope to make some forward progress on Bellona. For now, this post will document the first part of the stern framing.
 
Several transom frames are installed on the aft side of the stern bulkhead assembly and another bulkhead piece is slotted down onto these to lock them in place. There were a few minor adjustments needed to get everything to fit nicely and snugly, but this was not too tricky an operation. One photo you see below makes it seem as if there is some real asymmetry here - but I promise you this is an illusion produced by my iPhone based sub-amateur photography. You'll see in the photos how I drilled and filed out square sections on bulkhead 16 to mark the position of the stern chasers.
 
The other work documented here is the marking out and installation of the filler piece for the f'csl cabin bulkhead and for the aft quarterdeck support. In one photo you can see where I've marked out the position of the king plank on the main deck for later installation.
 
The balcony is fit atop the transom frame pieces, which (as you'll see) need to be adjusted for a slight camber prior to installing the balcony. The last part of the stern framing (which is the next stage of the build to be completed this week I hope) will be to add framing and filler pieces for the quartergalleries and to install the stern balcony. Then it's onto the other decks, which are a bit of a puzzle - particularly the two-part quarterdeck, which the plans seem to indicate is installed after the poop deck, but which I think will be easier to install beforehand. I have to consider the sequence of the coming stages carefully as I feel like it might be easy at this point to build myself into a corner....This is, after all, the first multi-deck model I've built (apart from Blandford, which was smaller and much simpler than this).....
 
Enjoy the photos and happy modelling
hamilton

What an incredible build! The coppering will be a challenge, but she's really going to look great once that's done! 
hamilton

The second Planking of the bow is now completed. The wood has been covered with multiple coats of Wipe-On-Poly and is hard and smooth to the touch.
 

 

 

 
Now, to the stern..... It will not be so easy....
 
Yves

Excellent work, Yves! I'm really enjoying following your build.

The delicate and crucial phase of marking the waterline is done, after careful measurements on the plan and according to pictures: 
 

 
I am using the little Model Shipways kit, which works relatively well, as long as you use a flat surface all around the ship.
 
The hull will be copper tiled under the flotation line and double-planked over it. Following some exquisite models found in Museums and Art galleries, I have decided to glue a tiny separation all over the flotation line. This is done with a 1 x 2 mm mahogany wood strip, carefully glued with CA glue. The strip is flexible enough to marry perfectly the curves of the hull. This approach is not described in the CAF kit nor are the mahogany wood strips provided.
 

 

 
With that nice separation in place, I can now move to the upper parts second planking, using the 0.4 mm x 8 mm maple strips, provided abundantly in the kit.
 
Yves

Planking of the hull is now over. Phew !!! That was a major task !
 

 
An enormous amount of sanding needs to take place but that will be for later.
 
Let's take a look at the instructions from CAF Model: 
 

 
The above steps have all be completed, although in a different order:
- Step 5
- Step 6 verification.
- Step 4 (minus part 24 which will be glued much later on).
- Step 9 (wales)
- Step 3 (planking of the hull)
 
 Hull has been planked and coated internally, with epoxy resin. The stern has been built (it was actually built before the planking) and the Part #25 has been glued. On the other hand, I am not placing part #24 yet, as it includes eight windows and would be automatically broken at this stage (not sure why the instructions only shows 6 windows...go figure....).
 

 
To coat the inside of the hull and protect the wood in the long term, I use an epoxy resin: easy to mix, odorless and fluid enough to be brushed inside the hull: 
 

 

 

 
Planking the hull was done in a very conservative way and I would recommend this approach. The wood strips provided in the kit are not of great quality. Quite a few strips did split, providing me with two nice triangular shapes, that can come handy occasionally. Technically, the planking would require a set of 25 planks from keel to wales and three sets of planks per side (Bow, stern and side), or the equivalent of 75 planks. CAF model provides exactly 150 strips of 3x8 mm wood. Some of the planks (a small number fortunately) were 10 mm wide, some were made of a very soft wood, some made of very hard poplar or white wood. Basically a lot of disparities in the strips.
 

 
Because of that, I went with a very conservative route and tried to use as much as possible the left overs and cuts. I managed to plank the entire hull with exactly 103 strips and have 47 left of various qualities.
 

 
The next set of instructions calls for the following: 
 

 
Although I have glued the rear decks, I disagree with the approach of gluing all decks at this stage and prefer to wait until the hull is completely done. After a thorough sanding of the hull, the flotation line should be marked and coppering (tiling - A) as well as a light second planking (0.4 mm thick) in the visible wood sections, should be made.
 
Step #9 has been done in part, as the wales (B) were glued before the start of the planking. Upper hull and channels (C) will come later (see below): 
 

 
I am going to take a break on this hull, in order to try to finish the 3D printed Corvette that I have neglected for a few months. In the meantime a few pictures of where we stand: 
 

 

 

 

 
Hope you are enjoying this massive build log.
 
Yves
 
 
 

One side done: 
 

 

 

 
Now, I have to brush the resin on the inside and do some sanding to make it silky smooth: 
 

 
Yves

The third quadrant has been completed: 
 

 
I know that a lot of experts will see my construction as blasphemy and heresy to what should be done. It is okay and I understand their point of view.
I did the best I could, knowing that this hull will be copper tiled and that most of the planking will be hidden. The most important for me was to embrace the shapes and curves of the hull and to make progress in a relatively decent amount of time.
 
The original planks are 8 mm x 3 mm of poplar/limewood strips. To accommodate the sharp curve of the bow in two dimensions/directions, I decided to slice each plank into two 4 mm x 3 mm strakes. It is a lot easier to handle and I built the planking from the whales up to the mid hull, like a stair with enough steps overlap. Once sanded, the hull is very round and still offers a decent level of sturdiness and solidity. A tiny amount of wood paste is necessary in some places to fill up some of the steps, so created.
 

 
From the keel down, the planking is placed directly against the bulkeads, until the strakes meet as pictured below: 
 
 
The overall results is rather nice (at least in my humble opinion) and replicates quite accurately the external curves of the ship. It is a lot of work as close to 40 small strakes had to be glued one after the other to create the bow: 
 

 
This is where I stand at this moment: 
 

 
I think I will be finishing the port side of the hull, before moving to the other side: 
 

 
Yves

I just glued the rear gun deck section. The hull has been coated with resin and so the deck can be installed permanently: 
 

 

 
The figures (AMATI 35 mm) may be a tad too small, although 35 mm is about right for 1/48th scale: 
 

 
A goofy picture: 
 

 
Yves

Second quadrant completed. Of course, lots of sanding remains to be done.... but the overall shapes are there: 
 

 

 

 
I am leaning very strongly in favor of a coppered hull. Copper tiling has always been a fascination for me (the glittering of the metal...) and since Bellona was tiled later in its existence, it makes sense to try to do it. Besides my planking is far from being presentable as such and will require a second planking in the non-tiled sections (above the water line). I also suspect that the bow is going to be even more difficult to plank than the stern...
 
Therefore, I am learning about the tiling process by reading what the members of this forum have done on their models. 
 

 

 

 
The deep blue is the one that matches the best, the English paint used on these period ships.
 
Inside the hull, I am brushing some acrylic resin on the wood, to seal it and increase the bonding strength of the planks to the bulkheads. There is an enormous amount of pressure and tensions taking place and I do not wish the planks to start coming out, in a few months or years. Planking has been done with Thick and Quick Titebond glue (or is it Quick and Thick?) and I trust them to a certain point. The only glue I trust fully is the two components epoxy, slow curing glue.
 

 
Before brushing the resin....
 

 
And after ! I noticed that the lime/poplar wood  provided by CAF Model was occasionally splitting. Soaking that wood into resin is probably a good insurance for the long term. Interestingly, no resin seeped through the hull....indicating that it is waterproof.
 
Just for fun, I could not resist trying the various gun deck pieces: 
 

 
And the Upper deck and misen mast: 
 

 

 
It is getting exciting....
 
Yves
 
 

Some progress on the planking. I almost finished one quadrant of the ship: 
 

 

 

 

 
Most of the planks were placed in this crude jig: A little dipping in pure alcohol and then placed between the nails - 
 

 
Four planks can fit nicely, while drying in shape. When released, they rebound a little bit, but are more willing to comply to the difficult shape of that hull.
 
Now, I just have to do the other side, with more than 24 planks....
 

 
A first pass of "scraper" and some rough sanding took place. I am still debating if I will paint the hull (anti-worms white) or copper plate it. I would love to do the copper plating but need to learn about that process. Non-covered section of the hull may require a second planking made with 0.4 mm thick maple planks, provided in the kit. 
 
I still have plenty of time to think about it....
 
Yves

SESSION #5
 
This is the richest session and heaviest box: 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I am planning to follow the sessions independently. Every time I start a new session, I will describe the contents of the box, in greater details.
 
Yves

Since there seems to be a lot of interest and questions about the various Sessions, here is a quick rundown on what they offer: 
 
Session #3: 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
SESSION #4: 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Yves

While planks are drying, I started working on the pleasant stuff of Session #2: Some parts of the gun deck and the rear capstan.
 

 
The assembly above will be glued to the deck and will provide a sturdy pivot/bearing for the main axle.
 

 
The capstan will be rotating. The lower part of it is fixed and is used as pivot for the axle. The upper part and the 10 feet long sticks are rotating and will be coupled with the capstan on the upper deck. It probably won't be easy to see the lower part rotate, but I will know that it is there.
 

 
The bars are made of bamboo sticks, for Smores (Publix stores). Each bar is cut at the right length (real bars were 10 feet long) and inserted into the upper part of the drumhead (see pictures below).
 

 

 
The upper part of the capstan rotates smoothly and is a pleasure to operate.
 
The deck is planked with maple planks of 0.4 mm thick, 8 mm wide (easy to cut with a pair of scissors) and stained with old oak Minwax varnish (very smelly).
 
Yves
 

I completed the wales on the port side. I still have to fix and paint the gun ports on that side, as well as install the upper wale. That one is easy (1.5 mm basswood) compared with the main wales (3 mm x 8 mm cherry wood).
 
For a change of pace and more self inflicted torture, I decided to start planking that monstrous hull. Each plank is made of 3 mm thick by 8 mm wide poplar/lime wood and is very stiff. I split the hull in three belts, following the recommendations of experts (such as Chuck) and started planking the garboards and the first planks to the keel.
 

 

 

 
So far, I have installed 4 planks on each side. About 24 planks should go under the wales, on each side.
 

 
This is still Session #2 and it is by far the biggest session, with the hull planking, wales, upper hull planking, channels, gun deck and 28 big caliber guns to assemble, not counting two capstans, bitts and numerous grates.
 
Session #2 also includes the copper tiling of the hull. I have not decided if I will tile the ship and it will depend of the appearance of the hull. Honestly, I have never planked such a big and curvy hull and each plank presents its amount of challenges.
 
I may be stuck for months on Session #2 and the sanding of that behemoth will require an electric sander, preceeded by a wood scraper.
 
I have secured all five sessions of the kit (you never know what may happen between the USA and China) and I will be presenting the remaining three sessions at a later time. Crazy stuff for sure and tons of parts to assemble for a life time.
 
Yves

I am exploring some colors for the upper part of the hull and the channels: 
 

 
On the left side, we have Wipe-On-Poly on basswood and maple strips. The WOP may get darker with multiple applications.
On the right side, Minwax Mustard water based color. The mustard will get duller with time.
 
Overall view to get a better feel: 
 

 
Let me know your preferences and some other tricks to color the maple and basswood. The original model is shown below: 
 

 
And a painting of HMS Bellona by Geoff Hunt: 
 

 
Yves

Breaking away from the CAF instructions (which are recommending planking the lower hull first) I went ahead and worked on the Wales. After carefully measuring and getting the right positioning of these from pictures and the blueprint, I went ahead and started gluing the thick and stiff strips of cherry wood, provided in the kit. These are 8.5 mm wide by 3 mm thick and quite a challenge to bend. Some warm water allowed me to follow the natural curve of the hull: 
 

 
The wales are glued with slow curing two components resin epoxy. I have to wait about 6 to 8 hours for each strip and there are nine strips total. Maybe I need to be less generous on the amount of glue....
 

 
Wales are glued staggered, in order to define a nice and regular curve, along the hull.
 

 
Three strips are about 25 mm wide, which is one mm short of what the blueprint is indicating. However, following the Anatomy of the Ship book, I will be approaching the wales on a more gradual basis, instead of the way it is done in the kit.
 
In the kit, we have 3 mm thick (wales) and we then plank the upper hull with 0.4 mm maple strips. That creates a brutal transition which is contradictory to what the reference book is showing. Instead, I will use 3 mm for the wales, 1.5 mm transition strip (not provided in the kit) and the 0.4 mm upper hull planking.
 

 
Still plenty of sanding to be done....
 
Another aspect of the upper hull that needs to be addressed, is the upper deck gun ports: 
 

 
These present a large opening which is not right and will create a void, when the external planking is installed. Using 1.5 x 1.5 mm strip (not provided in the kit), I am filling up the gap created between the outer shells and the futtocks. The lower gun deck, does not need that treatment since the gun port lids are supposed to be inserted there. When dry, everything is sanded smoothly and the upper hull planking could be technically started at that point. We will not do that quite yet....
 

 
An overall view of the starboard side with the wale installed. To accommodate the sharp curve at the bow, I took my 8.5 x 3 mm cherry strips and split them in two, on the length of the bow curve. After a soaking in alcohol, the smaller strips created by the cut are easier to bend and less likely to break. At the bow, you can actually see 6 small strips.
 
 
About four coats of Model Shipways acrylic black paint to get a sense of the wale: 
 

 
Still plenty of sanding to be done and another four coats to make it look nice.
 
Another point to not forget, is the painting of the gun ports and some wood putty in places where they may be small imperfections in the smoothness of the hull. I am trying to finish one side before moving to the port side of the hull. I hate repetitive tasks.... when building a 74 guns ship, what can you expect?
 

 
Yves

Moving along with the stern. I have glued the famous #25 part with 2 components epoxy glue, after carefully checking alignment and dimensions.  I do not have Session #4 yet, which includes the balcony and floor that will be resting on that part, but I suspect it will work fine.
 

 
The central futtock #1, is not glued since it will be discarded: 
 

 
After positioning carefully the windows, I am gluing the first plank on the stern. This one and the following will be curved after soaking them in luke warm water. Not easy as these planks are made of 3 mm thick lime wood (I suspect it is lime).
 

 
Moving on with the planking of the poop: 
 

 

 

 

 
Yves
 

SESSION #1 is OVER !!!!!!!!
 
So, Session #1 is officially over and Session #2 has been started as indicated by the following excerpts of the IKEA style instructions: 
 

 
A few views to show you the overall beast! Impressive and massive: 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 As a conclusion for Session #1, I would say the following: 
 
CAF should provide the parts that allow you to verify the correct spacing between the top of the futtocks. These parts are only available with Session 3 and 4 and this is way too late in the hull construction process. Other manufacturers like ZHL or Model Shipways provides bulkeads or futtocks with a removable middle sections. Once assembled and glued, you cut the top and voila.... On such a kit, this lack of help is not acceptable (even the spacing between futtocks is not indicated on the plan, in a clear way). When building a Framed model (POF), a full jig is provided allowing you to assemble the hull without major mistakes. Here, it feels at times like flying a plane in the dark without IFR instrumentation. The Stern should not be assembled until you have Session #2 in your possession. I suppose this is a trick to force you into purchasing the additional sessions. Wood is of very good quality and a pleasure to work with. The cuts are very precise, well done and parts are very easy to detach from the sheets. I wish the stand (to hold the hull) would be offered in Session #1 and not in Session #4..... Instructions need a lot of improvements...... a lot!!!!  
Overall I am very pleased with this kit and would recommend it even to beginners (like me). It does not require any special tools besides sandpaper, files and X-Acto tools.
 
So, let's move on with Session #2..... the planking and the Gun deck !!!
 
Yves