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Shore thing

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About Shore thing

  • Birthday 12/26/1955

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Cambridge Maryland
  • Interests
    Boating, fishing, crabbing, woodworking, model building, photography, bird/nature watching, gardening, RC drone (aerial photography)

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  1. The next step was to make the pilot house and cabin sides. I was able to use the template that was supplied. It just needed to be shortened by about a half inch. Obviously, drilling the holes for the port lights and cutting the windows were done before installing the sides. After tacking it in place in several places, the front windshield was cut and fit. I also framed out the windows. From there I started working on the two sections of roofing. The pilot house roof was cut to length and a gentle curve cut along the front. The upper sides of the pilot hous
  2. Very nice looking model!! WOW, it's even got an active windless, cool. I will have a look and see if I can find some of that wire. I was just going to paint the edge but wire would definitely be better. Thanks for the info. Reed
  3. Great picture of the Breezin' Thru John. Yes, she's still there. I was waiting until later in the thread to comment on the fact that I am able to actually see the boat in person. I took a trip there a couple months ago because I needed to see some of the details that the directions don't mention. Unfortunately it was a rainy day and she was buttoned up tight. It was also a few weeks before fishing season was open so no one was there either.
  4. At this point I added the stem to the hull and then continued fairing the chunk along with the stem into the hull. Since my hull did not turn out exactly like the template that was provided with the plans, the template for the deck was mostly useless to me. However, it did give me a few basic measurements to go by. I flipped the model over and traced the shape on to construction paper. It's a little hard to see but this picture also shows the overhang of the rub rails. From there I plotted out the details in relation to my hull.
  5. Opps, I got a little ahead of myself. After planking the bottom to the point shown in the last photo, I needed to add the "chunk" of solid wood to the bow section. A chunk is used because the planking will no longed bend and twist enough to form the bow. Once again there was no mention or pictures of the chunk in the instruction booklet. Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures of the chunk before it was carved into it's rough shape. Here's a picture of the area that will require the chunk, This picture shows the chunk with the keel added and then roughly c
  6. Michael, thank you for your interest. You are correct, there is only the one row of side planking at this time. It was necessary to plank the bottom before adding more side planking so that the hull would would have enough structural integrity to hold it's shape. The next step will be to add frames/ribs to the inside of the hull. They will help to further define the shape of the hull and provide gluing surfaces for the side planking.
  7. At this point the instructions wanted me to start planking the bottom. I quickly realized that it had made no mention for the need to slightly bevel the bottom of the keelson for the planks to have a gluing surface. I used a straight edge and a block plane to form the bevels. Next, I realized that the instructions did not have me install a “chine log” at the bottom of the first hull plank. The chine log doubles the thickness of the hull plank, strengthens the chine and increases the gluing surface for the bottom planks. I glued a strip of 1/16” x 1/8” wood to the inside bottom edge of the firs
  8. This manufacturer uses a method where they have you produce what they call a “Keelson”. It starts by having you cut a ½” x ½” piece of wood at an angle to create an inverted scarf joint. This joint produces the angle of the stern section of the hull. After gluing, it needs to be sanded into its final shape and then have the transom attached. In this case a (roughly) precut transom was supplied. It was not symmetrical and did not match the template. To make matters worse, the template was not symmetrical either. I carefully sanded it into a symmetrical shape and attached it to the end of the ke
  9. As Forest once said, "You never know what you're going to get". Fortunately, this model is not that complex. The biggest problem is that it lacks the details that are needed to make it look as close as possible to the real boat. To quote my high school moto "Find a way or make one". A nd that is what I will do.
  10. “Breezin Thru” is a classic Chesapeake Bay charter boat. Here is a quick historical review of the boat from the Wye River Models instruction manual. “The “Breezin Thru” is a charter fishing boat that was built in Rock Hall Md. In 1949 by Andrew J. Stevens. It is 44’8” long and 13’6” wide. It has been in continuous service since it was built. The boat was originally owned and captained by Harry Carter, but is captained by it’s present owner Tilghman Hemsley. Tilghman is a renowned artist whose most notable work is the Maryland Waterman’s Monument displayed at Kent Narrow
  11. In closing. I never imagined that this journey would take almost four years to come to fruition. Granted, the model spent a good bit of that time not under construction and just sitting on a shelf collecting dust. Regardless of that, there were many, many hundreds of hours invested into the building of the model and all the research that was necessary to build it to the best of my abilities. It got to a point where the research was as fun and interesting as actually building the model. I read a small library’s worth of books and traveled to a good many locations in order to see som
  12. An update to my lack of rope issue. I went to a fabric store and was able to find a heavy, twisted thread that was very close to the color of the rope I have been using. As of now, I haven't rigged the last few lifting lines on the lazy jack but will soon. Worst case is that I will need to replace the two that are already rigged. The base. The kit supplied me with a basic wood base that held the boat in cradles. In the instruction booklet the boat was shown on a driftwood base. I really liked that look and decided to use it. The wife and I took a drive to a few of the
  13. Rigging. I am sure that many of you will find my next comment funny, especially those who have rigged much more complex ships. So do I. Even though there is only a small amount of rigging on this ship, at the beginning of the build, I was intimidated by the thought of having to do it. As usual the key was to spend time doing research and visiting some of the Skipjacks in the area to see first hand how they were rigged. It became apparent that the rigging would have to be done in stages along the way. For instance, the sails would have to be produced and attachment point
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