Roger Pellett
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Henry Grace a Dieu (Great Harry) by Louie da fly - Scale 1:200 - Repaired after over 50 yrs of neglect
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
How to stain or dye boxwood?
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Looking for homemade or cheap solution for heating & soaking planks
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Looking for homemade or cheap solution for heating & soaking planks
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druxey reacted to a post in a topic:
How to stain or dye boxwood?
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Yes, industrial and hospital applications use autoclaves to contain pressure above atmospheric thereby raising steam temperature. Simple steam boxes do not do this. The temperature difference between dry and moistened wood is also striking.
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Looking for homemade or cheap solution for heating & soaking planks
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
How to stain or dye boxwood?
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
USS Cairo 1862 by MPB521 – Scale 1:48 - American Civil War Ironclad - First Scratch Build
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Steam Temperature: Water at standard atmospheric pressure boils at 212F (100C). If you live at a high elevation like Denver, Colorado the boiling point is less. There are two ways to increase steam temperature both used in power plants but impractical for ship model builders: Increase the pressure at which the water boils. That’s how a pressure cooker works. Heat the steam after leaving the pot that it boils in. This is called superheating. That’s it, you can’t fool Mother Nature. Steam coming out of a pot of boiling water contains more he
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Boat and color looks good, Brian
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Consider the customers likely to use hardware store stains like Minwax. Most woods that they are likely to come into contact with are open grained Woods like softwoods and red oak. These stains are often used by do it yourselfers trying to make these cheap woods look like something more expensive. These stains are good enough to satisfy these customers. On the other hand, anyone using stain on a scratch built model is using high end woods; maple, cherry, holly, apple, pear, and yes boxwood, Castillo or the real stuff. The reason that these woods are used is the same reason that
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The wood that Tony is using is not the same as that sold commercially today. Old wooden drafting tools were manufactured from “real” boxwood. I’ll leave the scientific nomenclature to others. This is light yellowish tan wood, very dense and hard. When cut with a sharp blade it takes on a polished surface. This wood is commercially unavailable today. Since wood stain needs to penetrate the surface, it’s not hard to understand why Tony is having trouble staining it. Today, model builders eager to build “boxwood” models are using Castillo a different species that the tr
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Jaager, Thanks for your clarification. My post was intended to introduce Neophytes to the mysteries of ship drafting and was based general principals. My Naval Architecture education occurred in the early ‘60s, prior to the dawn of CADD. We were still required to manually make a lines drawing from a table of offsets with the finished drawing India ink on vellum. What a mess! The ship in question had a steel hull and if lines drawing sections were a multiple of frame spacing we had no way of knowing. I certainly agree that there were many framing conventions in the
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No buttocks
Roger Pellett replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Two out of three plots, waterlines and body plan shapes plus bow and stern profiles, define the shape of the hull. Modern naval architects add buttocks and diagonals to check the fairness of the hull. Do you plan to redraw the lines? Relying on the downloaded image without making a new drawing is unlikely to yield a set of frames that will produce a fair hull. -
Roger Pellett reacted to a post in a topic:
Chaperon by joep4567 - 1:48 - Sternwheeler
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OK! Naval Architecture 101 The hull’s shape Is defined by a specialized drawing called a “lines drawing.” If you’re familiar with mechanical drawings, the lines drawing is an orthographic projection showing the hull in three views; the top view is called the “half breadth,” the side view the “sheer,” and the end view the “body plan.” To save drafting effort since the hull is symmetrical only one side of the hull is shown on the half breadth drawing. The body plan appears to be odd to some as one side shows the view looking forward and the other looking aft. The hull’
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Roger Pellett reacted to a post in a topic:
Section line questions
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Are these EU regulations that will be relaxed by Brexit?
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AP and FP stand for after perpendicular and forward perpendicular. They define the dimension, length between perpendiculars or LBP. In simple terms LBP is the “length that floats the boat,” although there are hull forms where this is not true. In making a lines drawing, the naval architect first draws a baseline, then the FP and AP. The space between is then divided into stations. These stations do not necessarily match frame locations as frame shapes were developed from the full sized lines layed out on the mold loft floor. Roger
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Roger Pellett reacted to a post in a topic:
Fifie by GBModeler - Scale 1:48 - Typical late 1800s Scottish Herring Drifter
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Hi Bill, My parents lived in the Vermilion Lagoons from 1979- 1986. Looking down the lagoon from their kitchen, the Inland Seas Museum was atop a small hill across theVermilion River. My father and I visited the museum when they still had the original ink on linen drawings. There was also an attempt in the 80’s to start a model ship club there, but I was living and working at the other end of the state in Marietta and only attended one meeting. Your plan catalog was quite a project. It’s a shame that it is not more widely distributed. While volunteering for the Wha
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Yeah, that would give you some abrasion resistance pulling it over a beach.
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Do you have to fiberglass the outside of the hull? It will add considerable weight. If you can avoid it several coats of good quality marine paint should be more than adequate. If you are concerned about leakage, put a light inside of the hull, turn off the lights inside the garage and mark any areas that need sealing up.
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Improving a Homemade Thickness Sander
Roger Pellett replied to Roger Pellett's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I spent the week making parts, now all finished except the 1/2 in steel shaft that has to be drilled to accept cotter pins. I splurged and bought the four 12mm Id flanged collars about $20 delivered from Amazon. I used two of them so have two left over for something else. The 12mm bore was easily bored out on my drill press to fit a 1/2in shaft. I should have it assembled in the next couple of days the disc disc in the foreground is a rachet, a precaution to prevent the machine from eject the sled into the operator. To back up the sled the pawl (not made ye
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