1492
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Everything posted by 1492
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Thanks, but that's not the one. I have seen the tutorial you linked to, actually I have it printed out and refer to it sometimes. Oh well, I'll keep looking for it.
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.. that contained instructions on how to modify a sail to make them look more realistic, full or wind blown. The tutorial consisted of a modification that increased the original size of the sail by making them taller. It added length to the bottom of the sail. This provided more of a 'bubble' effect similar to the photo attached. I am interested in experimenting wish this method but can't seem to find the tutorial anywhere. If anyone can lead me in the right direction that would be appreciated?
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As modelmakers we're permitted to Simulate the real thing aren't we? So simulating a hole doesn't have to sink a model. RC Model ships have been sinking and rising for decades now in pond battles. aren't you don't know that- JEEEEZ!!!! -
There's a nice model of the USS Maine in the Naval Museum in Madrid with a nice write up of how the Maine is 'Remembered' in Spain. Naval Museum Madrid If you're not sure what I mean then read here. I wonder if you will show your model with the hole in its side demonstrating how the explosion was from the inside-out. Seems nothing has changed in 120 years.
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Hi Chuck, as a woodworker in another life my advise is to get your chisels 'scary' sharp and pare down on the work as you sneak up to the line you have marked by grasping the chisel very close to the tip (but keep a safe distance back)- this gives you the best control possible.. Don't hammer the work piece and just sneak up slowly rather than trying to remove large chunks quickly.
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Amalio Very nice work. You're not going to include cannons to lower deck? No vas a incluir cañones?
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Don't forget this detailed site dedicated to this kit alone: http://www.sanjuannepomuceno.co.uk/
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Why not paint your ship?
1492 replied to BassicBill's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
The model is pretty much complete, It's sitting in dry-dock (covered) waiting on a case to put it in. I just need to put the whole lot together (masts and sails are still not attached) but that won't take me too long at all. I used this 'fictional' boat as an experimental model more than anything else. I used severe rusting on the hand rails, Verdi Gris effect on the rudder hinges, built my own fittings and discarded the kit’s fittings, made nicer bowsprit and masts compared to the kit supplied ones, used the fine tile grout effect for the plank caulking, etc. I applied many thinned down coats of acrylic paint because I didn't want to lose the wood grain underneath that can otherwise make the painted areas look too 'plastic'. The model was finished with some weathering. Because it’s a test model I haven’t been in a big hurry to display it. Besides the admiral has not allocated me any extra space. -
Why not paint your ship?
1492 replied to BassicBill's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Why not use both? This is an old photo of my version of AL's Swift. I use paint for bulwarks, wales and masts (not shown). Then I tried to blend the finishes so it looks 'natural'.
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What do you use your mill for ?
1492 replied to captainbob's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thanks Janos, That's really good information, I appreciate your help because I've had these photos for a while and no other instructions to go by. -
What do you use your mill for ?
1492 replied to captainbob's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have been following this topic with interest and it reminded me of some old pictures I kept on my PC from the MSW 0.1. I know this is slightly off topic but thought it may be interesting for those interested in making cheapo profile mill bits. These were from the build log of the Panteleymon by Russian master builder Alex Baranov. It is a pictorial tutorial that may come in useful to some:
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Thanasis, Can you please provide more information on the circular saw you have in the picture? Is it home made? If it is can you let us know how you made it and how it works?
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Daniel. That seems more like extreme miniatures. The Models in Philip Reed's book has full exposed framing below the waterline. Allan, Thanks, I'll look into the books you have suggested, I was only curious if anyone here had followed Mr Reed's techniques.
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Has anyone ever built a ship following the techniques shown in this book? By that I mean building in the miniature scale and building the top and bottom of the hulls separately? Mr Reed has a very interesting way of building his highly detailed miniatures. I have an immense interest in this scale because of the limited space I have to work with. It's also fascinating and challenging to get that much accuracy at such small scales. This type of ship is also very aesthetically appealing. I know that I am moving in this direction with my current builds but I'd like to know from anyone here whether they've tried it and whether they've enjoyed it. The ship shown in the main part of the book may be beyond me right now but some of his other samples at the rear of the book look like they can be done.
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Does anyone have an opinion on this scroll saw?: http://www.micromark.com/microlux-mini-scroll-saw-for-hobby-use,7114.html It looks very similar to the Proxxon DS230: http://www.proxxonworld.com.au/product/scroll_saw_ds_230_e_220-240v
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Blue Ensign, Thanks for the information, I'm building AL Swift at the moment, I would like to use this on the rudder hinges and some other small pieces. Eventually I want to build a coppered hull and weather the entre ship including this effect below the waterline. Mike, That is really is a nice natural effect on your copper. When you say it's a slow process do you mean slow for the effect to appear or the amount of coats required to reach this stage?
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I was just wondering if anyone has techiques to weather copper to look like Blue Ensign's coppered hull? http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/67-so-where-do-you-do-yours-then-ship-building-that-is/#entry613 I think this liooks authentic and would like to try it out in some of the areas of my build.
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Hi Remco, Your Build log s definitely appreciated again. I am amazed at your perfect wood and metal craftsmanship. Is there any way you can perhaps post a tutorial on how you manufactured your metal hinges like the one in your image "IMG_7922.jpeg"?
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I thought I'd start this topic for places to get wood for our Australian members. The one I have used previously is Trend Timbers. They have a great selection of many different local, imported and exotic timbers. Their staff is very helpful even though I felt I may have been wasting their time with my minor needs.
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Thank you for this review Mike, it was very helpful. I was actually looking at Philip Reed's books with this one as the top of the list. Does anyone else have any feedback on Philip Reed's other books?: Waterline Warships: An Illustrated Masterclass Modelling Sailing Men-of-War: An Illustrated Step-by-Step Manual Building A Miniature Navy Board Model Any other books he may have written
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A small hand-held power sander
1492 replied to Modeler12's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hi Jay Does this machine give you a lot of vibrations that could damage the good work you have done to the model- say like when used in the second picture (planks)? I would like to use this tool however I would be afraid that it may work some pieces loose that I may find out about latter in the build when it could be too late to repair. -
Hi Ron, I really like your Lathe, it seems accessible to most of us. If you don't mind us copying your version I'd like to have a go at building one- besides I have an old drill that would fit perfectly in there . You wouldn't have a basic plan or even dimensions you would like to share with the group? Kindest regards
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