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Haze Gray

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    Washington State
  • Interests
    3D printing, CNC, and reading naval history

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  1. Hi Jean Pierre, welcome! I do quite a bit of CAD myself but I use Autodesk Fusion 360 - it's available for free for hobbyist but I don't think you can export to other formats like STL or IGES with the free version - to export to other formats you need to pay a subscription.
  2. Condocert is a good one, I think the French pre & semi dreadnaughts extremely visually interesting.
  3. thought I would share what's I'm attempting - I'm using fusion 360 to create the basic shape / profile and then port that into blender to shaping... I have no idea if this will actually work though!
  4. Hi Ron, Yes indeed the figurehead and the stern plaque were likely added in 1901 during a minor refit - Marine engineering from April 1902 reported on the changes of some of that refit included photos of the bow ornament, stern ornament, and a flat plate with a relief that commemorated the battle of manila bay.
  5. Hi Lou, I do have that one and a few others for the Olympia - I know of about 5 bow ornaments/figureheads that have known public locations but whereabouts of all the rest (including the Olympia's) are unknown to me. A 3D scan would make quick work of the modeling - I am kind of assuming that many have been preserved somewhere (hopefully not in private hands). Since I'm very new to 3d sculpting it might take a really long time to develop the skill to do these but eventually I'll get there if that's what it comes to! The bow ornament from the USS New York (ACR-2) was actually at
  6. Unfortunately the Olympia as preserved does not have the figurehead otherwise I’d be there in a heartbeat!
  7. So, I'm currently modeling the USS Olympia and for awhile I've been thinking about how to model the figure heads on some of these old ships - I have a resin printer that would use for the actual printing - but as far as creating a model I don't think what I usually use (Fusion 360) is really the best tool - maybe blender is the best option? (have never tried it). The figure head of the Olympia was some sort of forging - it's possible that's it's still around and ideally I'd like to 3d scan the entire thing but it might take a long time to track down! Anyone have any suggestions
  8. So lately i've been looking at large format resin printers - the Peopoly Phenom has a build volume of 276mm x 155mm x 400mm which is really big.... One could conceivably do a complete hull with a lot of detail and do it much faster compared to printer that uses filament. I've been thinking about doing ships that I design in 1/350 scale and that Phenom looks like it is basically what I had in mind... tempting....
  9. I don't think I'm at the right point to sell them but my typical process is to get the design done, then print out the first draft of the parts and see how things fit together and if I need to make adjustments or changes (sometimes I forget to add something, etc). So through that draft process I finalize the design as much as I can and re-print anything that changed. These things take up space so if you're interested in getting one of the finalized drafts I can probably make that happen provided you cover the shipping cost - bear in mind that these ships in 1/72 scale typically range between
  10. Well my only plan really to to grow the fleet! - I have about 700 ships of the period that I would like to model - however, based on my calculations I am unlikely to live long enough to complete more than 350. Granted I am much faster now than I was in the beginning and have about 25 designs that are pretty far along, but it would be hard to do more than 1 per month on average. 1/72 scale is kind of ideal for the typical ship of this period since it allows for a reasonable level of detail for the typical 3d printer that uses filament but the size of the printer needed typically is larger larg
  11. Sure here you go - 5 hulls but the one with the superstructure and funnels is the USS Main - that hull has been sanded and partially painted - I actually have a 6th hull printing that is not in the photo (for the USS Texas - the original one from the 1892)
  12. Thanks Gents, that's very kind of you to say! I really should provide an update - I've been sanding the hull and making the turrets, but I have 3 hulls in addition to the Charles Martel that I'm sanding and it's been kind of cold out in the garage so I've slowed down a bit. maybe In another week or two I'll post that update.
  13. Hi haven't tried this but thought I would share (as it might have uses outside of fine modeling). Truck Bed Liners Improve 3D Prints | Hackaday
  14. Ambient air temperature can make a bid difference with resin printers - you might want to try putting the resin printer in a closet with a small space heater on low, get the air temp in the 70's or low 80's and see if you get more successful prints.
  15. I think Bilge rat is probably right about the rabbit hole - but I'd say you're probably further down that hole than you think! This topic has a lot of great information: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/34-cad-and-3d-modellingdrafting-plans-with-software/ How things are done in fusion similar to how things are done in blender - basically tracing hull lines and then some lofting operations. I'd recommend just finding plans of a ship that you're passionate about and heading over to that "model drafting plans with software" topic and start posting your attempts, you'll get a lot o
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