The Bitter End
-
Posts
234 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by The Bitter End
-
Hi Jaager This is actually a very valid point. I do a fair amount of carpentry and the moment you cut anything other than a dead straight plank the wastage is remarkable. I can only imagine what that must be like when you a cutting hundreds of curves that must all be perfect.(Im guessing a fair amount of the wood winds up in the bin too when mistakes are made). Luckily for old Jolly I hope to farm here for a long time and there is a almost limitless amount of wood here for him whenever he would like it.- 14 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- south africa
- wood
- (and 1 more)
-
Good evening sir! Thank you so much for your kind offer. I would love to give the drill press a good home. If you would like to come out to the farm and choose your trees and wood you are most welcome to. This is a guest farm so there is plenty of room if you would like to stay the night. Alternately I can just pick and choose a load of good stuff and meet up with you next time I'm in Cape Town, which should be fairly soon. I am still working my way through your build log. A really great experience so far. I am highly impressed by your work.
- 14 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- south africa
- wood
- (and 1 more)
-
Hi again Spy I took you advice and did quite a bit more fairing, particularly on bulkheads 1, 2 and 3 using the negative of the deck sheet to guide me. That was a great suggestion. I took a look at what you said and you are entirely correct. BHS No. 9 is about 1mm higher than the rest. I will be attending to this tomorrow morning once the evenings glue has dried. I also shaped the blocked now as suggested...a pretty challenging task. I think I will need to make further changes to their profile as I begin planking. I am having a really hard time visualizing exactly how planking will lie so I dont want to make any changes I cat fix just yet. Is there somewhere specific that I can look at mounting methods? I didn't consider it AT ALL. Thank you for your encouragement and patience. It is hugely appreciated.
-
Hi Vane Thank you for taking the time to give me this advice. I will follow it as far as humanely possible. I have a pile of 600,1000 and 1200 grit paper that I will put to good use. Keep an eye on this build and hopefully you will see improved surface condition from now on.
-
Day 3 (Evening) At this point I faired the bulkheads. Predominantly bulkheads 1 to 4 and 10-13. I did this by dry fitting all bulkheads and then removing and shaping one at a time(repeatedly) until i got a reasonably tapered angle for the planking. I suspect there will be some modification as I go. In addition to this I also sanded all the laser cut surfaces a small amount to allow better glue adhesion. I then dry fitted the lower deck. My suggestion to a newbie like myself at this stage is to clean up and sand all mating surfaces as best as possible. I found it to be a hang of a tight fit. After cleaning it up a bit the deck went in somewhat more easily. However once I was satisfied with everything and I had glued the bulkheads in and started to fit the deck things got somewhat panicky because I was really struggling to get the lower deck in and the glue was starting to dry....SO...make sure that everything goes together without effort or you may regret it. Another minor observation is that I fitted and glued bulkheads 3-10 first, then seated and glued the lower deck. I found this to allow me just a little more space to work on the lower deck and then fitted the remaining bulkheads. The plan for this morning is to tidy up the work a bit and fit and shape the "plank termination" pieces as far as possible This is the progress so far, excuse the rather odd keel clamp. It looks strange but works a charm. PLEASE tell me if you see something wrong here, Even the smallest detail. I am here to learn. PS. I realise that my Rabbet lines need some correction But I have decided to attend to this as I begin planking. I suspect that the rabbet is a somewhat "fluid" structure which in some places was not needed at all(particularly on the keel in the bearding area(i think)), some places where it should remain cut at 90 degrees and some places where it should taper in at a currently unknown angle. ...
-
Good morning Mr. Glass! Perfect explanations again. I came close to doing all this correctly as you will see in my next post. I just need to modify my rabbet somewhat to take away the 90 degree corner. thanks, Haiko
-
Well Explained!
-
Day 3 (morning) I have now tried to take on as much advice as possible(bar the mistakes Ive already made...sorry Chris) I have sanded down from the bearding line to the stern. I am not entirely sure if this is a sufficient amount of sanding. I am erring on the side of caution at the moment and i just sanded down to the rabbet line that I cut at the stern which was 1.2mm deep on both sides. I also cut the groove suggested into the stem. Again I am not sure if this is correct. Please advise if you have any input.
-
Hi Vane Thank you for your message. I cant really argue with you on this, you are totally right. I will however try and explain my somewhat poor logic....I want to try and really focus on very tiny detail on this build, even the things that dont really matter or wont be seen so that I can get maximum training value out of this for future builds that are more complex. I may well end up following your advice when I realise just what ive bitten off but for now im going to be as German as possible about this process.
-
Good Morning Spygalss!(it is 0504 here) This is all starting to make sense. And I am genuinely warmed by the willingness of this community to help me. The detail you have put into this respose makes all the difference. THANK YOU! I do still have a couple of questions, which I hope you font mind answering. I know exactly what you are saying about the fact that I should be too worried about the rabbet as I am going to be coppering the Hull anyway. However I really want to get every single step as perfect as possible so I can learn for future projects. I am in no rush to get finished. I am a very patient man and I live in a very remote place with not much to do after the sun goes down. 1. I think I understand what you mean about leaving the one edge untouched on the bulkhead but how do you determine how much to take off on the other edge?is this just something that you eyeball as you go along? 2. What do you mean by "sort your fixing points out? are you referring to the contact surface between the first layer of planking and the bulkhead section? 3. I notice that you cut the rabbet for the stem at slope and not at 90 degrees(i dont know if this makes sense?) By the time I read this post I had already cut a rabbet at 90 degrees on the false keel should I cut it back to a slope? I know that I was probably not meant to cut a Rabbet at all but I have sort of crossed that bridge already. 4. Thanks again for that tip on bringing the first planking up the the bearding line on the stern. Am I correct in saying that these planks just get sanded so that they taper smoothly to the false keel? Regards Haiko
-
Day 2 updates and questions. Progress is very slow but I am really enjoying finding my feet. I have cut the rabbet(1.5mm "high" and 1.2mm "deep", leaving a strip of untouched wood down the middle of the false keel 2.5mm wide) and marked the bearding lines(just a fraction below the bottom edge of the last 3 bulkheads) and Pre-fitted the bulkheads. this leads me to my questions for the day. Do the Rabbet lines in the photos below look correct? I cut the rabbet lines at a 90 degree angle but I see some examples(like in the example so kindly posted by Richard above) where they are cut away at a slope. I realise that I still need to taper the stern from the bearding line to the edge of the false keel(I hope that's correct) My second and third questions are as follows. Is the bearding line marked correctly? Do i need to cut back the lower edges of the bulkheads so that they follow the same contour as the bearding line?
-
Hi Chris Thanks for your input! I feel like you might be right about this. What does however confuse me is why the likes of SkipW, Blue Ensign and Landlubber Mike went for the rabbet line. I am totally new to this so I dont know if that is just a design choice or if there is a "correct" way. EDIT- I just found out that you designed this model. I find myself quite amused by what Just happened "you MIGHT be right Chris" 😂😂 😂😂 sorry about that. No further questions. Cheers, Haiko
-
Hi again! Customs duty ended up being zero Rand. I only had to pay 15% VAT, which seems fair seeing as I didn't pay tax in Europe Thanks for getting those links for me. I will be bookmarking both and going through them in fine detail immediately.
-
Sorry about the delayed response, I just got back in. That is perfect. That is sort of what I was hoping. thanks again!
-
It is a bummer indeed haha I will pay careful attention to the framing. That is going to be a whole other challenge. Yes, I do have to glue what they referto as a "true keel" onto the edge of the false keel
-
Hi Richard Thank you so much for your response. This now makes perfect sense. The only problem is that I have is that the plans fail to indicate either a bearding or rabbet line. Is it appropriate to just run the bearding line right below the lowest point of the frames?
-
Good Evening All This is not the most positive way to start a build log but I guess it was to be expected for a newbie like myself. So I have finally received my HMS Pegasus from Amati. The box is barely open and I already have problems. This would be a great point to recommend a build log or other resource for this build. I have found many but Im struggling on that covers the finer details that a rookie like myself needs. The instructions make no reference to a rabbet or bearding line, I have however come across reference to this in virtually every single build log that I have read on the vessel. My extreme lack of experience has lead me to several questions regarding these two subjects. 1. Rabbet line: - Am I correct in saying that they should be cut from the very bow to the very stern(excluding the vertical portion of the stern as indicated between the red arrows) -Should this line be cut 1.5mm "tall" and 1.25mm "deep" on either side of the false keel? -Do I need to sand the true keel down from 5mm to 2.5mm to match the width of the false keel after being cut down for the rabbet line?(this doesn's seem to make a hue amount of sense but it seems like this is what some people have done on some of the photos that I have seen. 2. Bearding line: - how do I determine where to draw the bearding line? - should the false keel be tapered evenly from the bearding line down to the rabbet line? - the instructions say "the stern area of the false keel to which the rudder post will be glued is to be sanded to roughly half the original width" does this essentially mean that I should sand from the bearding line to the vertical portion of the stern as well as the rabbet line(so that it tapers to the edge of the keel both vertically and horizontally?) Thanks a million in advance!
-
Good morning Jim As a matter of interest what is the process for importing foreign timber into OZ? Is it even theoretically possible? It is ultimately a good thing that you guys have these kinds of regulation. I could probably DHL a school of live piranhas into South Africa and nobody would bat an eye.
- 14 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- south africa
- wood
- (and 1 more)
-
Good Morning all I hope that I am not in contravention of the rules of MSW and if i am please let me know immediately and I will remove this post. (this is NOT about commercial gain, it is about limiting my waste and hopefully yours too) I am a fruit farmer in South Africa with access to an almost unlimited supply of fruit woods(Pear, apple, peach, apricot and plum). As it currently sits I use this wood for barbecuing, as there are mountains of it on the farm and on farms all around me and we are creating more ever day as we pull out old trees and plant new ones. This post consists of 2 parts, firstly, if there is anyone who would like some of this timber, either in block shape or a specific curve or curves please let me know and I will be happy to ship to you if you can cover shipping costs once the timber arrives at its destination. Secondly, I do not want any money for this wood BUT I am a new modeller and equipment can become very expensive very quickly, if anyone would like to trade old/used/damaged equipment/plans/parts for this wood I would really appreciate it. Please remember that the primary point of this is to not let tonnes of good pear wood go to waste so if you do need some and have nothing to trade for it please let me know and we can make a plan to get supplies to you. Kind Regards Haiko
- 14 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- south africa
- wood
- (and 1 more)
-
Another brave fool(from South Africa)
The Bitter End replied to The Bitter End's topic in New member Introductions
Hello and Thanks Matt! -
Another brave fool(from South Africa)
The Bitter End replied to The Bitter End's topic in New member Introductions
Good day to you kind sir! Thank you for your message. I will head over to the tools department shortly to start gathering all the advice I can(thanks for the link). As for the build log I think I will be making use of one to create a forum to help me through my challenges. I would like to say that I am remarkably impressed by this group of enthusiasts. I am yet to see a negative or unhelpful comment anywhere on here. even the most disastrous builds are revieved with kindness and helpfulness. It is an absolute pleasure to see in these times. -
Another brave fool(from South Africa)
The Bitter End replied to The Bitter End's topic in New member Introductions
Good morning Tiger, thanks for the input and support. I think that it is so critical that I dont force myself through a portion of the build when things stop being fun, I will be sure to walk away and revisit each step when it feels right. As for the build log i think i might just do a "questions log" basically post with photos and a background to the issue every time I have a question about a portion of my build(i expect this will turn into a fairly comprehensive build log regardless) -
Another brave fool(from South Africa)
The Bitter End replied to The Bitter End's topic in New member Introductions
Thanks Gramps! -
Another brave fool(from South Africa)
The Bitter End replied to The Bitter End's topic in New member Introductions
Thanks for getting back to me Chris. I will do a couple of trials with soak times and heat/no heat and do a mini post about a novices ability to use each method. -
Another brave fool(from South Africa)
The Bitter End replied to The Bitter End's topic in New member Introductions
Thanks Chris! I agree entirely that the hull planking looks like it might be the greatest challenge. Im hoping that I can learn the bulk of my lessons(without destroying the model) ont the first planking so that my second planking doesnt suffer too much. What is an appropriate soaking time for hull planking and should one then make further adjustments with the application of heat?
Our Emblem ®
