Jump to content

Randy Todd

Members
  • Posts

    44
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi Ed, What is a good source for high quality brass, copper bands, etc? I used to think all metals were the same until I got some blades from China that did nothing but fracture. If things go south as I start milling, I want to make sure it is the Indian and not the arrows.... Thanks in advance, Randy
  2. Hi Ed, Sorry to take up the space. Early on we discussed a builder's log and it's not something I'm inclined to sink any time into (best to keep the marriage healthy). I thought you mentioned some interest in seeing my progress. Sorry for the misinterpretation and I'll stop sending photos (hate taking them anyway). I'll confine my correspondence to questions about Volumes 2 and 3- never done any home milling before so I'm sure I'll have plenty. Randy
  3. Hi Ed, Here are some progress pictures that you requested. Sorry for the long delayIMG_2345.HEICIMG_2347.HEICIMG_2346.HEICIMG_2351.HEICIMG_2349.HEICIMG_2348.HEIC Let me know what you think, Randy
  4. Hi Ed, Just want to confirm something before I begin. Do you have a reference confirming Young America was sheathed in yellow metal and not copper. On Crowther's table on metal sheathing on era ships, Celestial (1850) and Gazelle (1851) were copper sheathed. Challenge (1851) was sheathed in yellow metal. Crowthers has no reference for either way for Comet (1851), Invincible (1851), Young America (1853) and Flyaway (1853). There is a Remark that Young America was sheathed in yellow metal in November 1879 but it us unclear if this represents a change from copper. Many other builders were using yellow metal, but I'm having difficulty identifying the sheathing material used in 1853. I have material for either approach. Do you remember how you decided which to use? Thanks again! Randy (I have not forgotten the progress pictures but things are a bit of a mess. I'm hoping to remount my hull back on the shipway soon, then I'll send some along for you)
  5. Hi Ed- Not to get too fixated on scuppers but looking at Crowthers book, there appear to be four on each side (at the [1] break of the Forecastle; [2] between 1 & 3; [3] low point in the waist; [4] break of the poop deck. He couches this generalization by saying this 'rule' varied by ship design. Do you remember if you found a reference of the number/location of the YA scuppers or made a (very) educated guess? Remembering my hull iron banding fiasco (Admiralty vs Lloyds), I thought I'd check in again before drilling. I know Mystic has a virtual warehouse of models and not all are on display. I trust your YA is viewable by the public-it might be worth the trip. I will definitely share some pix with you. You've been very generous with your time. Let me finish off a couple things before taking some progress photos. It is starting to look like a ship. Randy
  6. Hi Ed, Happy New Year! I am getting close to adding the scuppers. Page 186 mentions the scupper locations are on drawing 1 but I can't seem to find them. Am I missing something? Thanks in advance and hope all is well, Randy
  7. Thought I'd share something that has been working for me. To prevent debris and parts (and their retrieval), I made two deck-shaped drop clothes (out of a rag) and cut a slit up the middle (to allow placement of the pillars). It not only has saved me from having to fish fallen timbers from the hold, but the surface is easily vacuumed. Deck cover.HEIC
  8. I am having troubles getting to Ship Ahoy's website to get the Pre-ac motor replacement: I get an Asian, unsecure website instead. I have typed http://shipahoymodels.com. Do I have the wrong information?
  9. Grant (or Ed) I also purchased the Proxxon MicroMill Mf70 37110. I got both because they seemed to have a small footprint (I have little space), looked simple and adequate to complete the YA project. Should I try to return these? If so, what would you recommend I purchase? Thanks in advance for your help/advice, Randy
  10. Grant- Any ideas how I can set up my lathe to make these turned pillars? I have no experience here. I need some guidance. Randy
  11. Hi Ed, I am trying to get things set up to fabricate by turned pillars. I just purchased a Proxxon DB250 wood lathe and am very new to this equipment so please have patience with my questions. [1] In figure 9-48, you show a 5/32" diameter brass tube in the tailstock. This is to prevent splitting the wood. However, the tailstock to my lathe comes to a point. I do not believe Proxxon has a similar set up as you show. Is there an alternative way to protect the wood? [2] Is that a clamp on your tool rest that is holding your bit (Figs 9-48 and 53)? My lathe has a simple rest, but no clamp. Do you have any suggestions? [3] What is your bit made out of (Fig 9-50)? These are my questions for now. I'm sure there will be more. Hopefully, I'm being clear. Randy
  12. Hi Ed, Finished the Lower Deck. I learned a lot but am glad my mistakes will be largely buried from view. Middle deck should be better. I ordered my lathe for the pillars- should be an adventure. Your book and log complement each other well and have been a big help so far. Happy New Year, Randy Todd YA2.HEIC Todd YA1.HEIC
×
×
  • Create New...