Richard44

Forgot about the chimney, easily fixed though.

More deck fittings. The two pumps were the first to be done. Parts for the pumps are shown below. The body is hexagonal and made up of three pieces that need to be glued together. The manual says to use a length of dowel to keep the pieces correctly aligned, but also says don't glue these to the dowel, which is to be removed now and replaced later. After thinking about this and looking at the parts and the order in which they were to be assembled, I decided that gluing the three hexagonal pieces to the dowel at this stage was going to work just fine. The length of dowel required (it goes all the way down through the lower deck) was carefully checked first. The top to the body was glued in place and brass pins pushed into the provided holes, representing bolts that hold the body of the pump together. Three brass pieces were glued together with gel CA, with three brass pins providing alignment. The heads of the pins were ground off and the pins trimmed. This stanchion provides the pivot point for the handle, and a pin was pushed through it and the handle. A drop of gel CA was applied at each end of the pin to keep it in place, and it was later trimmed. The pump operating rod was loosely attached to the handle and it extends down into the pump body. As I had the dowel extending right to the top of the pump body, I had to drill a clearance hole to allow the rod to be insered. The pumps almost complete, and completed. Next the capstan. Parts are shown below. As with the pumps, some parts need to be assembled using a dowel to ensure alignment, with the manual saying do not glue the parts to the dowel. The capstan partly assembled. And completed. A piece of black card was used to represent the iron reinforcing ring on top of the drum. The wheel was next, nothing difficult to this. Parts are below and I forgot to take a photo of the assembled fitting. Next the difficult fitting. Not difficult to build, but positioning it is tricky. The binnacle. The parts are below and the finished binnacle below that. I glazed the opening through which the compass could be seen, with a piece of plastic. But where to put it. The manual has it jammed between the wheel and the skylight and facing forward, a position that means the helmsman cannot possibly see the compass. Blue Ensign in his build log has gone into some detail about this. I will probably position the binnacle off to one side and slightly forward of the wheel. Some photos of Harpy with most deck fittings now in place. Cheers

Thanks Andrew, much appreciated.

Work proceeds. The photo shows several items, some just from the fret, some partly completed, and others ready for installation. Pieces of the winch are in the top left corner, those for the skylight are in the bottom right corner, there are the two gallows (one complete), the fore bitt and the completed bowspit bitt. Paint has only been applied to the above deck portion of each part. The winch was built partly on the ship, partly off. There are two pices of brass wire required, one 19mm long and the other 32mm long. Both of these are slightly over-long, and if I had simply built the winch off ship, it would not have fitted into the pre-cut slots on the deck. The upper, shorter wire was emplaced in the two side pieces whilst these were fitted into the slots in the deck. These were kept vertical and a small drop of gel CA was applied to the ends of the wire to lock it in place and correctly spaced. This assembly was then removed and the remainder of the parts fitted. Dry fitting of the lower wire was done before final gluing. The ends of the wires were then trimmed. A little bit fiddly, but it turned out quite well. The skylight was done according to the instructions, with the PE window frames painted and backed by clear plastic. These were then pushed into place finishing flush with the outer surface of the skylight hatch. No glue was needed. The photo shows the skylight just before final assembly (the red colour in the photo is a bit off). Some touch up of the paint on the window frames was needed first. The two gallows and the two bitts were easily assembled. All parts now in place on the deck. I have just realised that I have forgotten to add the stove chimney - ah well, a job for tomorrow. Cheers

Thanks for all the likes, and to those who have just dropped by. The next job was to add the hatches along the centre of Harpy. The first photo is of the parts for all the hatches plus the completed ladder for the forehatch. The various parts were then painted and assembled. The actual gratings were firstly soaked for a while then bent around a suitably sized cup using masking tape to hold them in place, and left to thoroughly dry. Some of the gratings needed slight, gentle sanding to allow them to fit correctly into the coamings. No issues with that. When dry-fitting the completed hatches into their respective deck cutouts, some slight sanding was required to allow them to seat fully home (and this check should actually have been done before painting the coamings). Again no issue, but as always, dry-fitting before gluing was necessary to check the fitting. Lastly, the ladder for the forehatch was carefully glued in place. A little tricky, but yet again, a couple of dry runs before gluing, sorted out potential problems. The previously completed companionway was also added at this time. Cheers.

Thanks Maurice.

Progress has been slow due to lack of spare time. Nevertheless there has been some. The guns are finished and in place on the ship. Only the breeching ropes were rigged and this was done off-ship. Cheers

Thanks for all the likes and comments, and to those who have just stopped by. Some more progress. The first thing to do was assemble the fore platform, only four parts. It was glued together, then dryfitted, gently sanded, dryfitted etc until it was a good fit into the bow. When I was satisfied it was glued in place. The two short steps to the platform were added at this point. A longer set of steps were assembled and glued in place. The companion way fits above these, and making this proved to be a little tricky in places. The parts for it are shown below, with some pieces already glued together. The more interesting facets of this build were the two doors at the front and the hatch on top. The instructions say that these can be left closed or open. I chose to have them open. The doors were no particular problem, except for adding the hinges, provided as PE. I glued the doors in the open position then added the hinges (the handles, ring bolts, had been fixed already), but ran into some problems with the PE hinges in trying to get them to fit correctly. I finally used some of the Syren hinges I'd used previously. The hatch however needed a little more attention. As Blue Ensign said in his log, the hatch needs support in the open position. For the two supports I used some leftover PE, bent into a curve, glued to the underside of the hatch with the lower ends held in place by small eyebolts fastened to the sides of the companion way. Syren hinges were again used. The guns were assembled over several days, usually while waiting for glue or paint to dry. Assembly line. Patience is required. I didn't add Part 227, described as the "quoin" in the instructions for the long guns. Instead I replaced it with a short piece of 0.6mm fret to represent the bed of the carriage and added two separately made quoins. (The left carriage needs a paint touch up.) Finally, a word of thanks to Blue Ensign (Maurice), who continues to suggest improvements that can be made to an already superb kit (thanks Chris), some of which are obvious in my build. Cheers.

Thanks David. I had one go at trial-and-error cutting of the card, but then it dawned on me that I could use the fret as a template. Easy as.

More progress, but not a lot to see. The eyepins/ringbolts were all added, with blocks seized to them where required, mostly those associated with the steering tackle. The instructions call for these latter blocks to be 3mm in size, but to me, these looked overscale and 2mm blocks were substituted. The ringbolts were made by adding a brass ring to the PE eyepins. All pin racks and cleats were glued in place. The tiller is in place but not glued. The rudder has been sitting out of harm's way, but was now fixed to the hull. Following Blue Ensign's example, a rudder coat was fashioned to fit around the rudder where it passed through the lower counter. I made one of these for my Pegasus build but couldn't remember how I'd done it so I referred to B.E's detailed description of his method in his Alert build log (here) and I more-or-less followed his method. Briefly, the coat consists of a canvas "bag" held against the rudder and the hull by a metal plate. I made the "metal" plate first, getting the inside shape by using a piece of the fret that had contained the lower counter, and then simply eyeballing the outer edge to give me a horseshoe shaped plate. Card was used. I had no fine material for the bag so used surgical tape instead. The plate and the tape were glued to the hull, leaving the tape baggy enough to stuff some cotton wool into it and then moulded it to suggest a bag. Once satisfied with this, I painted the coat with a mix of black water-based acrylic and PVA. Card and the piece of fret used to get the inner shape of the plate. The partly stuffed bag. Cheers

OK, time to 'fess up. I made a serious mistake that can't be corrected 🤒😬. If it had been two pieces of wood I could have de-glued them, but once two pieces of card are glued together, that's the way they will stay. I had however, photocopied the sheets from the kit when it arrived, and I have some 1mm material i can use for laminating, so all is not lost. There will however be a brief interval till I catch up with myself 🥴. Cheers

Thank you for the kind comment François. Yes it is a flower. Cheers

Some further progress. The hair brackets and the PE decoration that fits between the brackets were added to the prow. The upper and lower cheeks were added as was the hawse bolster. The brackets were very delicate and required careful handling, but fitted perfectly. The cheeks needed some sanding to get them to fit as they should. The bolsters needed quite a lot of sanding before they matched the existing hawse holes. The next bits to add were the prow knee and the "V" brackets that support the head rails. Chris very kindly included two sets of these (other than the knee) in case some of these rather delicate pieces were broken. Murphy's law was then triggered and the only piece I broke was the non-dupicated one. There was no chance of gluing the two pieces together, so each part was separately added to the prow along with its "V" bracket. There is a slight misalignment, but you need to know it's there to see it. The head rails were then added. And the davits have glued in place at the stern. Cheers

Found them.

Chris, You've not mentioned doors to the nose wheel well - are there any? One diagram does show a door but I can't find any other reference. Cheers, Richard

Thanks for all the likes, and to those who just stop by. A short update. The chesstrees, fenders and steps were added to the hull. The pieces are shown in the following photo, the chesstrees on the left, the fenders on the right and the two pieces (treads and risers) for the steps in the middle. To assemble the steps, the risers were laid out on a strip of masking tape, sticky side up, and the treads were then glued to them. There are four completed steps on the left. The chesstrees and the fenders were rounded slightly on their outside edges to improve their appearance, and needed a slight touch with a diamond file to let them fit close against the hull. The lowermost step will be painted to match the wale. Cheers

They're raised, they came as PE pieces.

The stern cabins. These were a bit fiddly to do, needing dry-fitting, sanding and repeating until the fit was satisfactory Various rails were added - top and bottom of the inner bulwarks, the caprail and the one immediately under it and the decorative moulding that crosses the gunports. The catheads were added, as were the side counter timbers. Nothing really to say about these additions, all were easy enough. The gunport sills were painted red, but before doing so, wood filler was applied to them to hide the laminated appearance. Cheers

Some more work on the MiG. The next forward conic section was cut out, as was the piece for the front wheel well. Then I formed part of the air intake. This involved wrapping six strips around a mandrel, with each subsequent strip lying directly on top of the previous one. Except for the first strip. This was a colour printed strip that had to finish up completely circular with the ends butt joined. Whilst hunting around for a suitable mandrel, I finally realised that a 17mm socket spanner was exactly right. A few other pieces for the forward section and the air intake and all are shown below ready for assembly. That's all for now. Cheers

The next thing to do is assemble the parts for the second cockpit, these are shown in the photo. The rear bulkhead has had two holes punched in it (Chris' suggestion) to help with inserting this into the fuselage skin, as access is cut-off once the skin and forward bulkhead are glued together. Suitable pliers could then be used to grip the bulkhead. The forward bulkhead, rear tub, instrument panel and skin glued together. The rear bulkhead and joiner strip have yet to be added. The rear bulkhead took some effort to get in place. Dry fit, sand the rim gently, repeat. The two holes took a battering, but finally the bulkhead was seated and glued. The two completed (less seats) fuselage sections ready for joining. Could be interesting. It was a very pleasant surprise to find that there was no problem at all to join these two. I didn't need to use any of those magical words we sometimes have to rely on 😁. Cheers

A little more work done. Parts for the seats cut out and ready for assembly. Some parts need laminating, others doubling. The assembled seats. The only real problem I had was that the laser-cut Part 8 ( the cushion for the seat) was too wide to fit in and had to be trimmed. The printed part was fine. You can see the two parts on the top left and top right of the above photo. The pilot's tub has had the rudder bar and joystick glued in place. I didn't attempt to roll the printed part for the joystick into a 2mm or so tube, but used a piece of styrene rod instead. Thin paper was wrapped around the top to improve the appearance a bit. The tub was then glued into the fuselage. Cheers

Next was laminating the instrument panel to the laser-cut piece, then glueing it in place. The bulkhead has been coloured to more-or-less match the cockpit interior colour, and some scrap laser-cut fret has also been added to give a better glueing surface for the cockpit tub when this is installed. I then decided to tackle the rudder bar, even though this will not be visible when the fuselage is completed. The bar is wire, formed following the printed template, with card "pedals", simplified loops actually. The wire was easy enough, but then it became more difficult. I decided to wrap thin paper around each side of the bar to make it look a little more realistic. It is not possible to wrap normal paper around a 0.5mm wire (the size I used), so instead I used the very thin paper that forms the receipt from a supermarket cash register. I had several goes at doing this, finally settling on two wraps. The glue used was something called "Roket Card Glue", which gave just enough adhesion between the paper and the wire to allow a full wrap to be done. The following photos are actually from a failed attempt, but the technique was subsequently used successfully. The first photo shows the strip of paper being glued to the wire, in the second three full wraps have been done and the third shows the finished bar before the pedals were done. The pedals were attempted using this particular bar, but this was a failure, so I started again. Finally a successful rudder bar 😁. Cheers

Chris, to go back a few steps. Just how did you do the rudder bar? I've had one go with a poor result, and will try again tomorrow, but any hints would be appreciated. The wire is no problem but I have no idea how you managed to get the foot loops so even and glued to the wire. Thanks. Cheers

Good idea, I've done the same.

Thanks Chris. Had a chance to do a little on the SBLim-2A while waiting for glue to dry on Harpy. I got the first fuselage section joined after rolling it in my fingers to give it some shape. The joiner strip that goes on the forward edge of this was next, after trimming it to allow for the nose wheel. Then the lasercut former at the front of this section was readied by first laminating it with a print, then scraps of lasercut fret were glued on the cockpit side to give the pilot's seat a better gluing surface, and the area in between these strips was coloured to closely match the cockpit colour. Getting this to seat correctly in the fuselage section was a test of my patience, but finally it was done, though the canopy support at the rear of the fuselage section took a bit of collateral damage. 🫢. Anyway, all should be good. The two cockpit sections were cutout, folded and partly glued, following Chris' advice, to make it easier to install the interior parts of the cockpits. Cheers