Richard44

Ok, so Pegasus has been sitting idle for some months now. I have finally decided that I am not going to go with the masting and rigging, so here are a few final photos, and I declare Pegasus to be finished. It’s been an enjoyable build but I don’t have the enthusiasm to take it further. So thanks to all those who added likes or offered comments and advice. Cheers

Can't help on the absence of the banner, but they still seem to be in business as I ordered some stuff from them the other day and it's on its way.

Hi Jerry, Yes, the frames have to go in face down. If you look at Olha's video, about 14:30 in, you can clearly see her putting frame 22 into the jig 105 face down. What initially confused me is that you can see a laser-etched line on the back of the frame sides. Olha must have a slightly different kit to me, and probably you, as mine does not have any etched lines on the back of sheet 1P (the sheet with all the frames etc). A close look at the diagram for frame 22 on page 12 does show the position of the etched line that we don't have. I glued up frame 22 this morning and two photos of it are attached. The third photo is of the frame loosely in position on the keel. Cheers

"Olha" is Ukrainian, "Olga" is English. Her English language website identifies her as Olga. Whatever 😊. Her modelling skills are far better than mine😁. I'm following your log with interest Jerry, as I have the model as well, though I haven't started it yet. Cheers

Hi Jerry, Have a look at Olga's video, about 14:50 along - she shows the frame you are having problems with. I hope the link works. If it doesn't find the video via James' post on the shallop. Cheers

This is really for the Aussies amongst us. I over ordered some Syren brown rigging cords and no longer want/need them. Free to locals but a donation to MSW would be appropriate. The cords are all brown, 0.008x3, 0.025x2, 0.035x4, 0.045x2, 0.054x1 and 0.12x4. PM me. Cheers

Hi John, I too am in Aus and I happen to have a 12 inch three-sided Imperial rule that includes 1:48. I no longer need this so if you pm me your address I'll send it to you. Cheers

Thanks for the comment Ken, and for all the likes. There were 35 parts for the 7 cylinder rotary engine, plus another 10 parts for the propeller. The blades of the propeller are stiffened with short lengths of 1mm brass rod (and I should add here that there are templates provided for all the wire/rod parts). An interesting exercise in assembling the engine, and the diagrams had to be studied carefully in order to do this correctly. The engine parts, the completed engine and the engine plus propeller. The tail skid is made up of a bracket and leg that support the card skid itself. The leg is 1mm rod, while the bracket has two parts of 0.5mm rod which I silver soldered together. This was my first attempt at silver soldering, and after attempts two, three…I finally managed to achieve an acceptable result. The undercarriage is typical, two V-shaped struts plus axle. There are an additional three V-shaped struts through which the cables that controlled the wing warping run. One goes from the undercarriage to the bottom of the fuselage, the second downwards from the bottom of the fuselage at a point level with the rear of the undercarriage, while the third is on top of the fuselage immediately in front of the cockpit. All of these struts have a rod core with a card skin. I need more practice in doing struts such as this as my attempts are not as neat as I'd have liked. There was a choice of how to build the wings. Either cut out 22 individual ribs, assemble with a “spar” then add the skin, or laminate a core then skin it. I went for the latter, easier method. The photo shows the four parts that are to be laminated plus the two 1mm diameter wire spars, one of which passes right through the fuselage. The tail surfaces are simple card cores that are skinned. The elevators have a rod joiner and there is a rod at the leading edge of the rudder (there is no tailplane or fin as such - the surfaces are all-moving). The main components of the aircraft ready for assembly. When the engine was slotted into the cowl, it was apparent that the propeller could not be attached to the engine without a spacer between the two being added. There was no way that the engine could be moved forward or the propeller moved back - the cowl was in the way. So a spacer was added. Attaching the wing to the fuselage was easy enough - the two wire spars ensured accurate location. The tail surfaces though were difficult. Both the elevators and the rudder need to be fixed to the very end of the fuselage, a gluing surface of about 10x2mm. There is also the problem of the horizontal rod of the elevators and the vertical rod of the rudder both being attached, to the fuselage and effectively to each other, by very small pieces of card representing the hinges. If I’d thought about it much earlier, I probably would have attempted to silver solder the rods together and then make the elevators and rudder, thus making the rear surfaces a single unit. I had to use epoxy and fake the hinges. The fuselage rear from underneath. The control horns were added. All rigging was done with heavy EZ-Line. It is noticeable in places that the line is twisted as it is not round in cross-section but rectangular. I saw this too late to fix while rigging and decided that trying to correct it later was likely to cause damage. The finished aircraft. Quite a nice little model. Not too difficult to build. My apologies for the brevity of the log. I sort of got tied up with the building and forgot to make notes or take photos. Cheers

Hi Edward, You've convinced me to actually do a build log of the WAK Morane-Saulnier G, a model I completed some weeks ago. The log is here. You're doing really well with your Sopwith. Cheers

Ok, so Edward has caused me to get off my backside 😁, and add this build log of the Morane-Saulnier G monoplane that was built around 1912. A minor confession - I actually completed this model some weeks back, and the build was not as quick as this log might suggest. The plane is a free download from the WAK site. A Google search shows that the “G” model was actually a two seater, but this kit is for a single seater. So exactly which model the kit represents is a bit of a mystery. The kit depicts an aircraft in the service of the Russian Empire, and was probably used as a training aircraft as no armament was fitted. It would have been obsolete by the time WW1 broke out. Once printed, there are three sheets of parts and three sheets of diagrams, but the only instructions are those indicating which parts need to be laminated to thicker card.The contents of the kit. The basic parts of the fuselage that have been cut out after laminating onto 1mm thick card. The diagrams indicate that these should all be glued together as the next step. This would have made it difficult if not impossible to add the inner skins and details in the cockpit area. So the skins were added to the sides and floor, then the seat, joystick, rudder pedals etc. were added. The fuselage was then assembled. The outer skins on the fuselage. The cowling ring and cowl in place. Not as neat as I would have liked, and some damage is evident. Cheers

No idea, but perhaps the ropes were added at some much later date, and actually have nothing to do with the gun itself. Given that this is Gibraltar, maybe for the apes to swing on?? 😁😁 I'll retire quietly now.

Thanks Chris. I had assumed that this was what you did. Very neatly done.

Absolutely outstanding Chris. Are the control cables to the elevators and rudder made from EZ-Line? You mentioned in an earlier post that this stuff could be difficult to glue. Cheers.

Well done Andrew, it looks great.

Nicely done Andrew.

Keep at it Mike, you're nearly at the fun stuff. 😁

Yes, but this sort of madness keeps me sane! 😁 Looking good Andrew.

Thanks for all the comments and likes. One tool that I found to be very useful was a set of Micro Mark micro punches https://www.micromark.com/Micro-Punch-Set. (I bought mine from Hobby Tools Australia). These were good for punching small holes or for punching out discs instead of trying to cut them. The photo shows a couple of discs punched out of one of the printed sheets from Christiaan Brunings. I found that sometimes thin CA dripped onto the back of the proposed disc before punching out made for a cleaner cut. Cheers

Thanks for the praise B.E.. Funny you should ask about a waterline setting. World of Paperships actually has a free download of a jetty that CB could be moored to. I've got the file and will make it up in a day or so. I'm intermittently following your build of Sphinx and continue to admire your skills 🙂. Cheers

Thanks for the likes. There are four davits amidships and one at the bow. All are provided as prints or lasercut. The photo shows a midship davit, the image on the left being the lasercut version while the printed one is on the right. The lifting tackle is shown as lines on the latter, but as a solid “bar” on the lasercut one. The appearance of neither appealed to me, so I decided to rig some actual tackle on the lasercut davits. The “bar” between the tip of the actual davit and the hook at its end was removed and thin thread was used for the tackle. Not easy and the results were not quite as I had hoped. The following photos show one of the rigged davits and all four in place. The bow davit was left unadorned. Finally, the mast. This was fashioned from a length of strip wood, following the provided template. The base is made up of three printed parts, and would allow the mast, on the actual vessel, to be lowered before passing under a bridge (as was the funnel). The masthead light was made and rigging added. I found a photo on the net which showed the rigging more clearly than did the kit illustrations. So that’s the finish of this build. A little bit difficult in parts, the instructions are vague in places and the illustrations could definitely be improved. But I enjoyed it. Cheers

Thanks for the likes, and the comments Captain Slog, Chris and Ian. Not much to tell this time. The funnel is in place. This was a simple rolled tube with a joiner on the inside. The whistle that is alongside the funnel was made from a dowel as suggested in the instructions. A printed version came with the kit, but trying to roll a long, three mm diameter tube, proved to be beyond my skills. In particular the actual whistle at the top of the tube looked weird as it was an integral part of the print. The latter was therefore made from a short length of dowel. The completed whistle was attached to the funnel using small brass eye pins. The three guy ropes are elastic thread and the one running towards the stern is attached to a hand winch used when the funnel needed to be lowered. That winch is a card tube with the handle made from styrene rod. Also visible are two bench seats that were laser-cut. That’s it for now, not a lot more before it’s finished. Cheers

Ahhhh, I just realised after looking at that photo that I've left off the bits that represent the outer drums!!! I'll have to fix that tomorrow. Thanks for that photo Jan.

Thanks for all the likes. The next job was to make the cowl vents - three of them. The kit provides three choices for these - a simple folded version, a slightly more complicated version with a cylindrical body and a simple hood, or the complicated one with the hood made up of individual segments that have to be folded and glued together. Two of them as printed are shown here. I went for these. Bending and gluing the segments was an exercise in patience. To make it a little easier, the vent was held down on a steel rule with a small modified alligator clip (the teeth had been flattened). A finished vent, and the three of them in place. Next thing to be made was the bow winch. Again the kit provides options, simple and detailed. On the left is the detailed version with the simple version on the right, and again I’m doing the detailed one. The only guide to building this is contained within the red square (no actual instructions), and it hasn’t helped to find that some parts are mis-identified. Nevertheless, it was completed and glued in place. Cheers

Thanks for the likes. The wheel house, cabin and boiler room loosely in place. I forgot to take photos of the next stage, so skipping ahead a little…The parts for the searchlight and the completed unit. This photo shows the printed parts for the navigation lights. The boat with most of the deck fittings in place. Also visible are the navigation lights, the searchlight and roof vents. The nav lights are not quite as I would like, but as they are only 4mm high, they’ll pass. The kit provides duplicates for the windows, doors, hatches and gratings and these can be overlaid on the basic printed part to add some depth. Cheers

Thanks for that video Jan.