travis
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Apostol Felipe by Slowhand - OcCre - 1:60 - Spanish Galleon
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Apostol Felipe by travis - OcCre - 1/60
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Apostol Felipe by travis - OcCre - 1/60
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Apostol Felipe by travis - OcCre - 1/60
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Apostol Felipe by travis - OcCre - 1/60
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First attempt at a drop plank. This bow has a lot to curve so hoping this takes some of the stress off!
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Decided to set the keel before the final planking so I can get a clean finish (even kinda did a kerf in the bow to help hold the planks flush ). Planked part of the stern, set the garboard and first full plank at the Wales. A big change using contact cement but I see how it is beneficial for the final plank if you take your time. Nice to have the planks stay exactly where I put them. Now to plan, measure and cut all the tapers!
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Looks like you are just a little ahead of my on the apostol. I just finished first layer and am now working on second. I like bseing that you are running your second plank as individual planks rather than single planks the whole length. Are you doing the same below the wales too? I'm on my third build and for the first to, I used wood glue for second planks. Got real lucky and no glue bleed but what you are facing has been my fear with such thin planks. I'm trying contact cement this time but that comes with it's own challenges! I like the quality and detail you are putting in so I'll follow along.
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Hull is planked. Sanding and filling now. I tried planking like this was single layer. Came out pretty good for me but still need another round or two before I'm actually ready to do a single plank. But should be a nice underlayer for the second plank.
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Been a long while. Still working through planking the hull but work and other priorities have made this very slow. I'm also treating the first layer as a final layer as practice for one day doing a single layer scratch build. Isn't perfect but first layer is a lot cleaner and tight than prior builds. I'm also painting a thick layer of black acrylic on the back side after glue set on each plank (with a bent qtip). Testing as I go it's actually doing very well to eliminate bleed from the leds. Getting a lot of bend at the bow and trying to avoid steelers/drop planks as I go on this so we will see how it ends up. 20250318_072541.mp4
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Made 2 final updates for the lighting. Added 2 leds for the front potholes and added a pin header under the micro usb port to easily power from a battery pack. Going to finish the hull before adding a video so... Time to plank!!!
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No worries!! Criticism always appreciated if it makes the build better! I was thinking of trying a mixture or primer and elastomeric paint. the primary should improve adhesion and the elastomeric creates a thicker and more plasticised surface. If the second layer glue will stick well the the elastomeric that might be a good seal!
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Plenty of putty on 1st layer should block for the hull. If needed I can add paint to remaining bleed there before second plank. The cargo holds will bleed too. I can reduce the light level at each bulkhead to make it lest prominent. Migh also add some tinted plastic around those areas before planking if needed. We'll see how it goes!
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Pin headers arrived. Finished my lighting control board and set in place. Cut the wiring and using hot glue to keep wires from moving. As mentioned earlier, this board can control 16 independent leds so now i have to decide if I want any more! It's getting bright but the benefit of cutting in a micro usb is that I can update the code later to soften any or all of the leds once the hull is complete!
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I was tempted to try that but wasnt patient enough to wait! Would like to see how you handle it.
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For lighting control, I have an arduino nano and two shift registers daisy chained (74HC595N). Each shift register can be sent an 8 bit value that can control 8 outputs separately (8 Leds per chip) the daisy chain makes it 16 bit, so 16 individual flickering leds. (And you could keep adding!) Perf board is almost done, just waiting on pin headers to arrive that will be connecting the wires for the leds. Could hide wiring more if you just have the power supply outside the boat but I decided to cut an opening at back for the usb (could play with lighting and power by usb after this project is done). I'll try to upload schematic/diagram of the perf board later and could provide the arduino code if anyone is interested.
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Been extra busy but have been continuing. A lot of work on the lighting. Basically. Every gun port below deck has a new led. In this kit, there's a false black painted backing on the back of the clgun port that a shortened Canon end would be glued to. I added some spacer so that those pieces had a gap all around the edges that light can come through. I'll have to seal well with putty along the first layer planking so light doesn't show through the planks but hope is that each gun port will "glow" a little around the Canon end (and the candle like flicker will make even better. Then i have an led under the walkway above deck, one in the pilot house/steerage, the stern lamp, and finally, some cut out holes where doors on the aft upper decks will be. The doors are solid metal with a grid where glazin in the doors would be. Drilled small holes throughout the grid tonget the effect of light shining through.
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Gun port / lower deck lights set and wiring is soldered. Working on some of the other lights planned now around the decks/doors. Tried scratch building new doors but didn't like how it was turning out. Curves are really tight for bending wood and plastic didn't look great either. Next steps is to try drilling out small holes in the grid/grill on the metal doors. We'll see how that looks.
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Also working on replacing the stern lantern with a scratch build version I can add an led to.
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I've got bulkhead set now (not fun to bend!). All the primary decking is down too. Fairing the bulkhead wasn't too much work on the kit. With the prior ones I did it took more work to also deal with correct a lot of little defects but occre seems to make good bulkhead so it went faster.
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