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travis

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    Loomis, CA, USA

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  1. Couple updates. First wales bent, stained, and glued. Running parallel with doing other wales (extra time for bending), limber boards, waterways, and stations. Cut an scrap plywood for a bending template. Using a soldering iron (reduced accordingly!) And then clamp and time to get the bends.
  2. Took a long time but the hull is finally planted! Got a little left to do at the upper stern but I'm holding that until I get further along and ready to wire in the aft lantern. My first layer was treated like a single layer and came out pretty good for first time trying to have that layer at finish quality. Second layer came out even better. So glad I cut all the planks to actual scale plank size rather than. Trying to bend full length straps. Allowed for a lot of adjustment as I went, especially with the more intense curves at the bow. Time to figure out bending the strokes. Haven't decided if I will cur them into smaller sections or not. Going to make a bending jig similar to the one amati sells and see how that works.
  3. First attempt at a drop plank. This bow has a lot to curve so hoping this takes some of the stress off!
  4. Decided to set the keel before the final planking so I can get a clean finish (even kinda did a kerf in the bow to help hold the planks flush ). Planked part of the stern, set the garboard and first full plank at the Wales. A big change using contact cement but I see how it is beneficial for the final plank if you take your time. Nice to have the planks stay exactly where I put them. Now to plan, measure and cut all the tapers!
  5. Looks like you are just a little ahead of my on the apostol. I just finished first layer and am now working on second. I like bseing that you are running your second plank as individual planks rather than single planks the whole length. Are you doing the same below the wales too? I'm on my third build and for the first to, I used wood glue for second planks. Got real lucky and no glue bleed but what you are facing has been my fear with such thin planks. I'm trying contact cement this time but that comes with it's own challenges! I like the quality and detail you are putting in so I'll follow along.
  6. Hull is planked. Sanding and filling now. I tried planking like this was single layer. Came out pretty good for me but still need another round or two before I'm actually ready to do a single plank. But should be a nice underlayer for the second plank.
  7. Been a long while. Still working through planking the hull but work and other priorities have made this very slow. I'm also treating the first layer as a final layer as practice for one day doing a single layer scratch build. Isn't perfect but first layer is a lot cleaner and tight than prior builds. I'm also painting a thick layer of black acrylic on the back side after glue set on each plank (with a bent qtip). Testing as I go it's actually doing very well to eliminate bleed from the leds. Getting a lot of bend at the bow and trying to avoid steelers/drop planks as I go on this so we will see how it ends up. 20250318_072541.mp4
  8. Made 2 final updates for the lighting. Added 2 leds for the front potholes and added a pin header under the micro usb port to easily power from a battery pack. Going to finish the hull before adding a video so... Time to plank!!!
  9. No worries!! Criticism always appreciated if it makes the build better! I was thinking of trying a mixture or primer and elastomeric paint. the primary should improve adhesion and the elastomeric creates a thicker and more plasticised surface. If the second layer glue will stick well the the elastomeric that might be a good seal!
  10. Plenty of putty on 1st layer should block for the hull. If needed I can add paint to remaining bleed there before second plank. The cargo holds will bleed too. I can reduce the light level at each bulkhead to make it lest prominent. Migh also add some tinted plastic around those areas before planking if needed. We'll see how it goes!
  11. Pin headers arrived. Finished my lighting control board and set in place. Cut the wiring and using hot glue to keep wires from moving. As mentioned earlier, this board can control 16 independent leds so now i have to decide if I want any more! It's getting bright but the benefit of cutting in a micro usb is that I can update the code later to soften any or all of the leds once the hull is complete!
  12. I was tempted to try that but wasnt patient enough to wait! Would like to see how you handle it.
  13. For lighting control, I have an arduino nano and two shift registers daisy chained (74HC595N). Each shift register can be sent an 8 bit value that can control 8 outputs separately (8 Leds per chip) the daisy chain makes it 16 bit, so 16 individual flickering leds. (And you could keep adding!) Perf board is almost done, just waiting on pin headers to arrive that will be connecting the wires for the leds. Could hide wiring more if you just have the power supply outside the boat but I decided to cut an opening at back for the usb (could play with lighting and power by usb after this project is done). I'll try to upload schematic/diagram of the perf board later and could provide the arduino code if anyone is interested.
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