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kimosubby

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About kimosubby

  • Birthday 04/12/1953

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    Isle of Man

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  1. Hello Pawel, are you still building? I am currently attempting a complete restore of this kit. The original builder was enthusiastic but seemed to be using his own plans, and lots of glue. I coppered the bottom which covered the planking nicely and am now re-building the deck furniture according to AoSP as far as possible. The transom plate and quarters were fixed in place using builders Stick's like, and two hidden small screws. It was quite a job getting the position correct and creating new wales etc. Aye, Kim
  2. #nzreg Thanks for that solution, I should have thought that one out for myself as I used the same method on the carronades. Now I'll tease the barrels off the two long guns and do as you suggest. I'll have a gander at your Winchelsea log while I'm here, might be some other useful tips lurking. Thanks to all, aye, Kim
  3. I'm adding the armament to HMS Cruiser [shortly to be Racehorse] and have placed 16 carronades 8 per side, port side run out and starboard run back as for loading. Securing these to the deck was no problem as I used the forward swivel pin as a fixture in the deck. My problem is with the two long guns [6lb] on gun carriages. Again I wish to copy the positions of the carronades, one run out the other in the run in loading position. Suggestions please on how to fix these two carriages to the deck without blobs of glue etc. The carriages do have eyebolts fore and aft on the carriage axles which could take a blackened pin down through and into the deck. That would stop the guns moving about. On my HMS Snake the deck layout of guns has movement, indeed, when the model is transported for displays some end up on their side. All the guns have run out tackles and breeching ropes. Thank you, I couldn't find any previous thread on this subject.
  4. Hello there. I was challenged once by a fellow modeller who stated that period ship models were only good for static show as their masts and rigging make them too big to transport easily. I set to and made a 1/48 HMAV Bounty (sourced from the monthly magazine offerings and adapted) as a pirate ship which has three removable masts as well as the bow sprit. The masts were set into tubes below deck in which there was a strong small spring. The shrouds were added, and rattled, then dosed with weak PVA solution. The lower deadeyes were attached to a brass rod with chain plate realism, the brass roc being held to the hull by two brass hooks. All the stays were made with a variety of quick release couplings (various jewellery connections). By pressing down on the mast, against the spring, the shrouds can be looped off complete, the masts stay as complete units for carriage. The masts are fully rigged with sails too, though these are loose fitted to lessen the effect of wind! The bow sprit merely slots home and the various fore stays secure it in place against the fore bitts. With practice we can now rig in about 3 minutes, that's three masts and bowsprit. Transport is one box for the hull and another carries all the masts and bowsprit upright in another box. The whole is motorised and a great favourite with the younger generation. Oh, I won my challenge.
  5. Thank you for the welcomes, appreciated. Robby, I've used several kit producers, Billings, OcCre, Panart, Artensena, Amati, Sergal etc and some that no longer exist that produced specialist smaller models like Cobles and Galway Hookers. I build what I like and also build commissions too. My last was HMS Terror [OcCre] which was a very good kit but some problem areas like the chain plates which I re-made entirely. The client also wanted sails rigged, so I made him a new set from lawn cloth [it can be printed on using an inkjet printer] and it's also very thin so more in keeping with the scale. I don't think I'll be the first Manxie here, we tend to keep under cover if possible. What I can claim is that Euterpe [now called Star of India] was built about 100 metres from where I live. One day I'll make her as I have access to her lines from the son of her saviour. Kimosubby came about from within my Club, the Manxmodelboatclub, with members deciding that Kim must be short for either Kimithy or Kimosubby - you can tell which won through, and no I don't wear a eye mask nor face mask, this Island has been without Covid for over 7 weeks now. Finally, yes I will start a build log for the armed pinnace, as soon as I can find my way around this site. I haven't found any instructions yet so it's trial and error for now. I did pop a picture into my account on sign on but it seems to be in the ether somewhere for now. If you spot it, it's a 4 inch Thames barge! Aye, Kim
  6. Hi Twintrow, I expect all the answers say the same, trial and error. I've been making model ropes for many years on what would be deemed an old fashioned mechanical walk, 3 metres long driven by motor. Over the years I've amassed many varieties, colours and thicknesses of "rope" which all depend upon two main things - starting material (number of strands) and tension. Just record all rope runs with number of yarns per strand, number of strands and weight tension used. For each new mix record the measured diameter. MOST important record the source of the material used. You will amass a lot of charted data, but at least you can track the setting and material that produced the rope required. PS I've also found spools of ready to use "rope" on the haberdashery racks, 3 ply, beige or darker and just waiting to be used for sheets, and lifts etc. Don't forget to record what was used, where found and the codes! Aye, Kim
  7. Hi nzreg, OK I'm at the other end of the world, but I make my own ropes and use cotton threads supplied via here https://www.empressmills.co.uk/sewing-threads/general-purpose-sewing-threads which seems to suit well. Other materials are Barbour linen threads via eBay, they can be thicker but I use them for all my tying and securing seizing. It comes in different grades, sorry but I still, after 15 years, do not understand their sizing numbers. I just ask for the blackest, thinest and get 800m spools! Aye, Kim
  8. Hello and greetings. I was just about to post here when I came upon a post of a very sorry looking old Galleon. So I posted there first, sorry. I'm living in the Isle of Man, which for those that don't know, is in the middle of the Irish Sea which forms the centre of the British Isles. I am originally from Sussex, but have been here so long I and others assume I'm a local. I have been building model boats ever since I stopped playing Club rugby some years back. I've been building for some 25+ years and a quick count back totals some 60 boats of all sorts, and mediums. I much prefer period ships, I'm referred to a a "twig and string" man in my Club. I'm just completing HMS Snake by Caldercraft and have done a first planking on Amati's armed Pinnace too. HMS Diana is still in the box but will be out soonest, this coming winter's build program. I also have a lovely French Napoleonic raider from Brest, scratch, started drawings only, that will take some time. I'm also RNLI crew and DLA, though retired a week ago after 40 years. Ok that's a start, will post again in reply, aye, Kim
  9. ChuckJ, Hi, My first post Thats an attempt at the Ark Royal, hopefully a picture of the plans attached below. I've restored three of these so far, but none that looked like that. I'll post pictures of them in another post, as I'm new I'm still finding out how to do things on this forum. Ah, that easy it was. I've added my version complete with sails. The owners of this Ark Royal thought it was the Marie Rose. If you want more info, ask away. Aye, Kim
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