AnobiumPunctatum

Really wonderful build.

Really wonderful build.

I have both woods in my stash. Boxwood is harder than yellow cedar. Bother timber you can combine with holy and a light colord pear.
I think it is a personal decision which timber you use. As Chuck has to have a look at the costs of the parts/model he offers, his choice is excellent.
I like to work with both timbers.

Really wonderful build.

Really wonderful build.

I have both woods in my stash. Boxwood is harder than yellow cedar. Bother timber you can combine with holy and a light colord pear.
I think it is a personal decision which timber you use. As Chuck has to have a look at the costs of the parts/model he offers, his choice is excellent.
I like to work with both timbers.

I have both woods in my stash. Boxwood is harder than yellow cedar. Bother timber you can combine with holy and a light colord pear.
I think it is a personal decision which timber you use. As Chuck has to have a look at the costs of the parts/model he offers, his choice is excellent.
I like to work with both timbers.

Really wonderful build.

Good day,
 
Thanks for the helpful comments and all the likes. The drop planks have been extended which may look a bit better. Now it’s back to interior work.

Until next time.
Ian

Part 6  The Figurehead.
 
Pictures say more than words on this phase of "Victory". The material I used to carve this is called prototyping foam, also known as butterboard. It is a urethane fine cell structure that can be carved, milled, and sanded. It's available through McMaster-Carr. The huge advantage is there is no grain to contend with. That said, lets get down to the carving and painting of Victory's original figurehead.
 
For the tools I used a Dremel with a small ball cutter for removing large areas of material. Since I'm an Engraver I modified a few cutters into miniature chisels. Finally riffler files to smooth things out.
 
Side note: I repositioned what I call the "Rose Parade" waving of arms and hands. 
 
From NMM the 1/2 scale sculpture of the figurehead which I scaled to 1:64.
 
Next Part 7 The stern galleries and start of the upper deck long 12 pounders.

Not to worry, Chuck. After more than 4 1/2 years, I'm not about to rush the Winnie to completion. At the moment, I'm half way through my cataract surgery and get this. . For the past 3 years I thought that the background color of the frieze was predominately green. I was shocked to see otherwise. That's how much my eye lens had turned yellowish over the years. CRAZY! I will start again on the Winnie in a few weeks after the second eye is done.
 
I am very excited about being able to collaborate with you on the project. There will be so much to learn and that's half the fun.
 
Looking forward to seeing you and the guys after TG.
 
 

Chuck,
 
as I wrote earlier I wish you a lot of fun and success with the project. I took directly an abo to your build log. 
I found inyour first post a very good idea, which helps me a lot by the design of a really old project of mine.
Thanks for sharing your idea and drawing.

Moving along to finish the boxing joint.  The first segment of the keel is also laser cut in two layers.   There are laser etched numbers on them.   Glue these two layers together with the numbers facing each other on the INSIDE of the joint.   
 

This does a respectable job of simulating the box joint.

Then tweak as needed to get a tight fit with the stem assembly.  The seams will darken of course when I apply a finish.   But it has all been sanded.   After tweaking the ends of the box joint just a bit to get really tight seams I went over them in pencil again to make sure they would be visible once I apply some wipe on Poly.
 
You will also note how the remaining two segments of the keel are also done in two layers.   It will be impossible to tell that these are done in layers once the rabbet strip and the false keel are added.   It was a good solution to making what could have been a very complex and challenging box joint.   Bolts will be added later. 
 

 
 

Speedwell will be a wonderful follow up project for those building Winchelsea. I'm about 2/3 finished rigging her and it's also a lot of fun, without all the repetition of a ship rigged three master. Chuck has chosen well - she is a beautiful little ship. For those not familiar with her there is a particularly fine model in the NMM on which our model was based. Here is a link to the photo. There is also are also superb McNarry and Reed models as well as a lovely bone model if you do an internet search.
https://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_07_2016/post-505-0-31402400-1468369675.jpg
 

Chuck,
 
as I wrote earlier I wish you a lot of fun and success with the project. I took directly an abo to your build log. 
I found inyour first post a very good idea, which helps me a lot by the design of a really old project of mine.
Thanks for sharing your idea and drawing.

Absolut fantastic. Hoy do you paint the friezes? They look really realistic especially in the small scale

Part 5 The Stern Galleries
 
Once more thanks to for interest and encouraging comments.
 
First off, I'd like introduce the ship's cat "Pogo". Project manager, little best friend, and lays on the exact tool I'm looking for. Been on job just about 15 years.
 
(Bottom photo) This is what Victory looked like for years, so after finishing the middle deck with the 24 pounders, it was time for a sanity break to start closing in the back of the ship. 
 
Each of the middle deck windows consists of 32 individual pieces of wood. I made templates for all of them.
 
The upper deck balcony was especially fun to build.
 
"Victory" was painted by cutting a mask and then sprayed with my airbrush in gold leaf lacquer. The ladies are hand painted with a brush in oils. I had to chuckle at the drawn stage curtains revealing the gun ports. 
 
This is the pattern I made in Photoshop for the balcony balustrade using the 1765 model for reference.
 
Next, in Part 6, the magnificent figurehead that was removed in the 1800-03 rebuild.
 
 

Thanks, Starlight. You are correct. The modeling techniques of the '90's are closer to the 18th Century than now, with exception of electric power tools.

Part 3

One thing about building a ship model is, that no matter what stage it's in, it's cool to look at. In 2002 my father-in-law built an oak and lexan case for the ship which fit over the building cradle to protect it from dust. The addition of the removable case made the ship construction look more museum like. It was the catalyst that got me motivated again to work on the project.
 

Below are the rigging stations for each port and starboard gun sets. These are the middle deck 24 pounders. The lower gun 32's were done by the same method. I cut and installed the hanging knees, inner planking, and ring bolts. The beams were fitted but removed for installation of the guns in sets of four. After installation the middle deck area beams for that section and lodging knees were installed. And finally the gun port doors with hand fabricated brass hinges. Then on to the next set. By switching tasks I was able to keep my sanity and the progress was more rewarding. During this period of time the rudder, tiller with ropes for the helm were installed, and the chain pumps on the lower deck. The Galley stove and pantry were fabricated and installed too.

As a working artist most of my weekday times, with some exceptions, are spent painting aviation art. (I specialize in the First Air War of 1914-18.) So construction on Victory has been confined to weekends if I'm not building something else. After the finish of the middle deck framing and planking it was back to guns again. This time the 24 pounders.

Again I divided up the tasks and started on closing up the bow. The forward forecastle bulkhead and the top head rails set the tone. The head timbers and rails are probably the most complicated structure on the ship. You can just visualize them cutting through the enemy's line of battle.
 
The finished head rails and timbers really stoked the fires of my building frenzy.

As C. Nepean Longridge writes in his book, The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships, "One can light one's pipe at the end of the day and rest assured that the job was done properly." So British! Still cracks me up.

Next: Part 4
The ship project gains momentum.
 

Part 2

Thanks to all that have started following my attempt at a build log and for your likes and comments.

Although most contemporary Admiralty models had no guns, I decided early on to add this level. If I didn't I might regret it later on. My early visions included the possibility of a fully rigged ship and so it would have to have sea going artillery. I seriously underestimated the scope of building a 100 gun ship of the line. The guns and tackle added a tremendous amount of hours and really tested my patience. I often tell my friends that in the time it has taken so far I could've built three frigates. But the other side of the coin would mean I wouldn't have a three decker, the most awesome war machine of its time.

From early 1993 to mid 1995 I had made the master 32 pound barrel on my lathe, made the RTV rubber molds, and started casting 30+barrels. Carriages were constructed with the cross pieces and trucks. The cheeks I scaled on my computer, saved to a floppy disk, and I had them laser cut out of 1/8" white Lexan. The completed assemblies can be viewed in the above photos. Starting amidships in 1995 six cannons have been rigged, have gunport doors, and the middle deck framing has been started. I had also decided to have the guns run out to starboard and the portside guns run in with ports closed or open for viewing, to show the lines of the ship better.

Each gun has three single blocks and three double blocks with corresponding ring bolts and lines. (And like an idiot I made the blocks). There's the breaching rope, etc. Now multiply by 100 and you can see the enormity of the task. Not saying it wasn't fun but I had to take breaks and go back to ship construction.

One photo  shows the mainmast stepped. All three lower masts were made to line up through each deck.

In July of 1995 I was relocated to Orlando, Florida for my work for 3 1/2 years. My wife and I decided to take the train first class with a sleeper compartment from LA's Union Station to Florida. I built a carry case with a clear lexan top and Victory made the trip safely in our compartment with us. Victory was laid up in Ordinary for over 6 years, due to other projects, before I got motivated to work on her again. Let's see...more guns.

In Part 3 we will jump into the 21st Century.

Greetings to all.
 
This will be a "sort of build" log of my scratch-built model of the Victory starting in 1991 to present. In the pre-digital photography era the few photos I have were shot with a Nikon 35mm camera. I'm not the most disciplined when it comes to shooting progress pictures. I get so excited about the build that I think there's just a few more things to do before shooting the next pictures. So here's some shots and explanations of my process from the early '90's.

Part 1
 
After the usual research and gathering of plans and photos I decided to build in 1:64 scale, or 3/16th"=1'. A good average house scale. My base plans were taken from John McKay's book "The 100-gun Ship, Victory", and C. Nepean Longridge's "Anatomy of Nelson's Ships". McKay's plans are based on how she would've looked after her 1800-1803 large rebuild prior the Trafalgar. Longridge has more detailed  drawings along with structural details of general construction of the period. My original intention was to build this version. After prolonged study the drawings I noticed the original sheer line and rails, still visible today, before the build-up of the bulwarks along the quarterdeck. So back to research for drawings of how Victory looked from 1765-1799 with stern galleries and elaborate carvings. Meanwhile the build still went on for the hull structure.
 
The first step was to enlarge the drawings to 1:64 scale. I enlarged the outboard, inboard, framing, profiles and plan views of the ship then all the frame sections. The keel, stem and stern post drawings as well.

Framing and Shaping the Hull

I used what is probably a unconventional approach to construction of the hull. Since the "Man of War" has more frames than a merchant vessel, and they almost touch each other, I figured that 1/4' thick frames would be very close for an Admiralty style builders model. All the frame sections were laid out on 1/4" thick birch marine ply and cut on a band saw. I cut 1/4" spacer sections for between the actual frames. These were carefully aligned and screwed together in stacked sections until I had the complete hull. (No photos exist of this phase). I used a 1" Makita belt sander to knock down the stair step frame sides close enough to start block sanding by hand. I forgot to mention you must make sure your frame drawings, before cutting, start amidships facing towards the bow and aft towards the stern post. That way when the shaping starts you are sanding to the line of the drawings for the proper shape. It's like making a pattern or wood buck for a mold.

After the hull is shaped and sanded to a finer grit, the next step is to unscrew all the frames and take out the 1/4" spacers. Back to the band saw and cutout all the insides of the frames and notch for the keel indexing.

The Keel, Stem and Stern Post

Next was cutting out and assembly of the keel, etc. From here it conventional construction with the keel laid upright and plumb on the building board, and frames set in position. I cut frame shaped sections out of the spacers and placed these between the frames at the middle and lower gun deck levels for strength and rigidity. Once everything is glued in position with stringers holding the outside into place, I sanded and shaped the inside of the frames.


The Planking

All the planking is Basswood used for its very fine grain. For the bow and stern areas I used my wife's tea kettle to steam the planks for the tighter radius bends.
 
Below is the completed planked hull, the cutting down of the bulwarks, The addition of the wales and moldings, upper rails. I made tooling jigs for shaping the moldings. Lower deck 32 pounders are sitting in place. Cannon construction is another project in itself. And of course one must take the motivational paint break to see how things will look.
 

A little over a year and I finally arrived at a HUGE (to me) milestone - all the frames are finished! I wrapped up the twelfth frame today (what a journey). I decided to walk through (most of) the steps I wen through constructing the frame. I first did a little editing of the frame layouts to provide myself with some more lines for aligning parts in my mill vise, then I cut the components out and rubber cemented them to the appropriate width lumber stock. 

After the cement dried I used a jeweler's saw and cut each part out for milling and sanding.

Next I went to work with my mill to try to fine tune the cutouts.

As discussed previously I had to cut some parts at an angle, I've tried doing this simply filing by hand and then attempted to do it on the mill as well. I have to say I don't have a good way to set the vises up precisely so filing by hand worked better for me.

Gluing everything up was rather straight forward. The only real trick was setting up the correct offsets for the top timbers which I cut with my Byrnes saw from some left over stock. Sadly, this went un-pictured but I was quite happy with the result.

Next up was drawing some bamboo for treenails, drilling the holes (still not great at doing this straight by hand - will have to continue practicing), and voila!

This has been quite the learning experience and I've got my fingers crossed that when I go to raise them I won't find out that they need to be re-done (😬). So I'm currently planning out how to raise these frames so they are level and parallel. I'm enjoying this project quite a bit; it has me really focusing on planning things out (of course not all my plans have played out, but c'est la vie). 

Sort of, it indicates that the chock has a beveled face so that when you fair the frame you you don't weaken it too much by making it too thin on that side at the chock. (Hope that makes sense).
 
 

There are three transom beams in the upper half, two mentioned above for the Roundhouse and Quarter Decks, and a third at about the height of the top of the rudder.  I managed to get these three temporarily installed but had to use PVA as the rubber cement would not hold up to what I did next.

I tried marking the positions for the lights (windows) but was having trouble envisioning it all.
To make it clear for me I tied some black waxed upholstery twine on the upper beam with a clove hitch and then to the wing transom with a simple bend as the wax seems to grip and hold it.  They were equally spaced at the top beam and then again at the lower beam (needs some minor adjustments again) and now I can see it developing. Once I have it in a final position I can mark these on the beams with a pencil and then pop off the beams to cut the notches in them.  Before I do that I think I will make a few cardboard templates for some of the pieces.
 
It is hard to see the fanning of the strings in the photo but the upper (1st or Roundhouse Deck Transom) beam they are spaced at about 1/2" and the lower (3rd) beam about 5/8".

Good day shipmates,
 
Thanks for the comments and likes, I really appreciate them. Since the last update I completed the windlass, capstan, hatch covers and bench.
 
I made the windlass almost exclusively on the mill. I wanted to see if I could use the mill for the ratchet gear and after several tries I think I was successful. One learning is that as the radius changes so does the calculation of the number of gears. For example while the guidance says to chisel two teeth per octagonal side, it does not mean that you can set the number of revolution steps to 16. In fact I had to modify it to 12 to achieve the 2 per side. Probably obvious to anybody else but just in case someone follows my example this is just a reminder. 🤓 The picture shows an earlier attempt.

 
 

 
The capstan was also mainly done on the mill and lathe. I learned from the last windlass I made how important it is to score the welps for the chocks in exactly the right place. The table saw and slitting blade came in handy for this. From there I chiseled the notches at 20 degrees to fit the chocks which had been carefully beveled at the same angle.




 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The bench build was unremarkable.


 
I cheated when it came to the main hatch covers. Instead of carefully arranging 40 hatch pieces on a backing I glued two pieces of pear to aircraft ply and used the slitting saw to cut the pattern. I actually did it both ways but was underwhelmed with the result so I put them aside (in case someone calls me out to say my alternative looks too perfect).


 
And a final photo:

 
See you next time.
Ian