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AnobiumPunctatum

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About AnobiumPunctatum

  • Birthday 10/05/1964

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Duisburg, Germany
  • Interests
    English ship building during the War of American Revolution
    Klinker build ship of the medieval

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  1. Chris, I am not shure if I understand your problem right. I had saturday the opportunity to make a short trip with the replica "Kamper Kogge" and that is what the shrouds are looking on the real ship. So don't worry if they are not really parallel.😉
  2. This looks so beautyful, Kris. Please check the position of the frame. If it is the position of the middel frame near by the mast, it has a slightly different design. Before drawing the frames I would add the clamps on the planks to bind the frames. Than I woud add the mastspoor. The frames are not sitting perpendicular to the keel. I could not see, if you remember this small detail. I don't know if you answered the question: which software do you use for the drawings?
  3. @KrisWood Yes that's exactly what I mean. I've stopped my project, because the bulkheads didn't work for me.
  4. I would buil the jig much higher, that you can build the complete keel and stem for putting it on the jig. Perhaps a design as for a paper model with a horizontal board is a good idea. This is a picture of my jig I tried to build the Skuldelev ship III. My biggest mistake, was to use a stepped design for the jig. It's much easier to mark the position of every plank, than you dont't have truble with the small inaccuracies during the build.
  5. If I follow my research for HMS Triton, you're absolut right. After frame 7 you need two sizes, but the middle is much more complicated. For a simplification I should use 12'' for the floor timbers and first futtoks and 10.5'' for every other timbers.
  6. Hi Chuck, I couldn't find any example for the the frameing you show for the Winnie section for a ship of this size and period. I think it is better you use the classic English pattern with double and single frames. Perhaps you can make the lower and first futtoks a little bit thicker than the other futtocks and top timbers.
  7. Chris, congratulations for reaching this milestone. I started yesterday with page one of the instructionbook. This anchor is looking really modern. Did you some research? If I am back at home I can check if I find something in my books.
  8. Really nice progress Chris. What glue do you use ? In the instruction manual Shipyard shows a contact glue (Pattex) and I was really surprised to see this. I am thinking to use Titebond woodglue. If the the weather is so worse as expected, I will start the build of my model today.
  9. Gary, can you send me please a link to the figures? Do you know, if they have these also in other scales?
  10. I speak German, but I couldn't read the text. I think that this are an old dialect and letters.
  11. The stern castle of the "Kogge von Kampen" is based on a shipwreck which was found in Kamen Netherlands. It's showing an older type of a stern castle. I am quite shure, that the rest of the kit is based on "Kogge von Bremen" The cog "Wütender Hund" shows in my opinion the classic cog also with a stem castle. It's a generic cog model. Most historical pictures are showing the stem castle. There is always a discussion, of the Bremen cog was finished before they got lost, because she don't has this.

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