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AnobiumPunctatum

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About AnobiumPunctatum

  • Birthday 10/05/1964

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Duisburg, Germany
  • Interests
    English ship building during the War of American Revolution
    Klinker build ship of the medieval

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  1. The planks at the bottom of the hull are krawel planked. So I think it is a good idea, to add some real frames to your shell.
  2. With the plans from Werner Lahm, you have the best source you can find for the Bremer cog. I Will follow your build with great interest. The plans are also the basis for the replica's in Germany. I've published a pert of the foto's I did from the original ship at Modellmarine.de.
  3. Tom, For the fore and main mast you have to cut out the frames. Especially for the for mast is nothing more than necessary. For the main mast I will add an extra piece of wood. For the mizzenmast it's not necessary. It get the correct poistion form the main- and quarterdeck.
  4. Mike, that's the same technic I use. The black color is mostly the laser char. I only egalize the small edges where two parts fits together and a third part has to be glued. With this stick it is really easy to sand the outer edge, which is not visible in the foto.
  5. Hi Kris, I am a member of the AK. I think I can help you. Do you search the article of Otto Groning?
  6. I told that I like to have the option to rig my model. For this I measured carefully the positions of the masts and cut them out of the false keel (1). The second thing was to cut small cut outs for 2 nuts (2), because I like the small stands which allow to show the lines of the underwater hull without interrupting. For this kind of presentation it's a good idea to screw the model on the stand. The distance to the lower edge isn't equal, because the waterline isn't parallel to the keel. Further I glued the parts of the stem an the knee of the head together.
  7. If you build a third version with your own cut bulheads I wouldn't recommend a second planking. For this you have to divide the thicknes of your planks. The thicker planks are looking much better than veneer. I recommend filling the area between the bukheads with basswood, similar to the narrow strips for the piece ports. After sanding you can fill all smaller mistakes to get a nice hull shape.
  8. If you like to copper HMS Winchelsea, I am quite sure that you have to follow the appearence of the Minerva model, this means that you have to change the design from Chuck. Chucks design shows the ship before the large repair. During this repair from 03/1780 until 04/1782 the ship was coppered. I like to rig my model, because I love the appearance of a "fully" rigged frigate. But until I reach this stage I have a lot to do and much more to learn.
  9. Next step was to form the rabbet. I used therefor a scrap piece from the false keel. After drying, the spooning was glued to the false keel. During the drying process the paper clips proved their worth. I sanded the taper the stem with sandpaper. Finally, the stem and keel were glued to the ensemble. As you can see in the photos, the shape of the taper is not perfect, but the planking will cover that later.
  10. Ron, have you checked the width of the planks? I had by my Triton cross-section years ago a culmulative error and at the end one plank less installed. Perhaps are your planks to small. I would plank the upper part of the hull with the same technic Chuck describes for the lower part.
  11. In 2016 I bought Chuck's Starting set from a fellow modeler who became a father. I glued the false keel together and then packed everything in a big box. While preparing the Winchelsea build, the box fell into my hands and I decided to build both models more or less in parallel. I can practise all the building steps on the much smaller Cheerful model before I do them on the Winchelsea. Since the false keel I built at that time was no longer usable and I want to build the model from Yellow Cedar, I asked Chuck for spare parts. These arrived on Saturday morning with a small delivery
  12. No, I think that you haven't put enough material at the top away. Sorry, my English is ot so good. Perhaps the picture better illustrates what I am trying to describe.
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