Harvey Golden

Some progress, including blundering (as expected). I had to re-do the deadeye attachments on the shroud lines, because I got a little ahead of my skis when following the instructions in Peterson's "Rigging." The Gjöa's deadeyes are metal strapped to a solid thimble in the shroud-end instead of the usual way of running the shroud around the deadeye. So . . . a fix and then proceeding with the rigging... compare with the above photo showing the incorrectly-made shroud ends.

They do . . . will double check the pics. Thank you. -- They look about right, not knowing exactly how thick the original's are. They are rods and not strapping. They seem proportional to the shroud size I'm using.

After a five-month break, it's time to work on the Gjøa's rigging. First photo shows the current stage. She's 3/8"=1', so the mast is just over 36" high when on the stand. My work space is quite small, so I've moved the work to the dining rooms table. I've begun mounting the chain plates for the backstays and shrouds. Also, I've mounted the davits after modifying their ends to have double-blocks. The shrouds are coming together nicely-- just glued now, but will be tied as well.

Hello Jackson! I build models for all of the reasons! Everything from channeling fidgetiness, keeping the brain active, fighting depression, overcoming challenges, learning about history, finding technical solutions, improving skills, and that lovely final result of a hand-made trophy rewarding my ability to not mess up something too terribly. I also build full-size watercraft (I started out doing that), and was surprised that building model is every bit as satisfying as the 'real deal,' never mind the bonus of models being a bit more practical to store and maintain than full-size vessels. The full-size craft I build could be considered models, though I've been calling them "replicas" for years. While they replicate the form and joinery methods of the originals, there are enough material substitutions that "models" may be a better term. I study hunting kayaks from Northern Cultures-- the Koryak, Chukchi, Unangan, Yup'ik, Sugpiaq, Iñupiaq, Inuit, and Kalaallit. These models are built for the above reasons but with an emphasis on trying to learn the shaping methods and nuances of joinery used in the originals. Being full-sized, they are completely usable, and there is of course a lot more to learn in their use. I see a number of builders on this forum building for research purposes-- working out ancient technical methods, building conjectural interpretations of historic craft, and even just walking well-tread paths in smaller scale to better understand how things go together and reconciling it with period 2D documentation. Briefly, modeling is a great way to wrap your head around something. I look forward to reading your thesis! (Hope you've found James Roy King's "Remaking the World" . . . someone here mentioned it, and I snapped up a copy). Best, Harvey Some of my full-size "models"...:

Thank you Ras! I'd love to get down there someday and explore it by small boat someday. The history, landscape, and the odd design of the steamers really captured my imagination. All the best, Harvey

There's another on the West Coast-- the Red Oak Victory, a museum ship in Richmond, CA. https://redoakvictory.us I had though it was the last, so am glad to hear of one on the East Coast! -H

Would it be cheating to simply replace it with a paper or cloth flag? Suppose the pattern could even be printed first.

The diorama/display case is completed! I'm still not sure about the top yet-- I may use plexiglass in the end. Hard to shoot through glass, so apologies for glare and reflection. Thank you all!

Your discretion is fine with me. Not sure when I'll get around to finishing now that summer is here. The boat is finished; just not the display. I can still drop an image of the completed display into the thread after it is marked "finished," correct?

Thank you John-- that does seem to be the problem. I just used water, but will try what you suggested for next time.

I believe Oregon's state flag is the only state to have different images on each side; name/seal/date on one, and a beaver on a log on the other.

The work on the diorama/display case is going quite well! The frame is ash, while the base of the diorama is 3/4" plywood. I've used some extra scraps of 'grass' from a previous project and for water I used Woodland Scenics "Realistic Water." The coloring beneath the water is acrylic paint, made to look like the Silver Spring River (sourced from Google Earth). The background is adequate, and will be covered by a number of cypress and palmetto-- one of each shown in the photos (sorry for spotty glass-- will clean it up for final pics). I made the cypress from wire, lichens, and wool to simulate Spanish Moss; the palmettos are purchased and plastic. . . and needed many washes of many colors to get them looking more realistic. I fussed over how to barrier off a divot for the steamer's hull-- do I create a removable dam, or cut out the footprint later? Neither seemed practical for my patience or skill/knowledge level and I wasn't feeling particularly experimental. With the scale draft being slightly under 1/8 of an inch, I decided to simply set the boat on top of the water. (Sanding the hull up to the waterline was another option, but I didn't want to compromise the boat). Ripples and wake to be added will further conceal this.

Originally published 1857. Higher-res image here: https://www.eldreds.com/auction-lot/print-private-signals-of-the-whaling-vessels-c._EFE4B748D8 My wife's family's flag is on it-- one of the Howlands.

I can't tell if "Otto" is forwards or backwards.

There are drawings of a few of the boats in it, but you'll need to add a scale, baseline, etc. Definitely "buildable" drawings, though, and the author may have more available. Also, he may be the best person to ask regarding lines drawings of historic Japanese traditional vessels. H-