Gregory
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Gregory's post in A few random questions re: keel & stem construction (18th century) was marked as the answer
You might look at Thukydides log for Perseus. He is doing a lot of research regarding the stem.
(sorry I can’t post a link right now)
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Gregory's post in How is the Garboard size determined. was marked as the answer
The actual plotting for the garboard will best be done parallel to the keel.
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Gregory's post in Actual Ship's Keel Question was marked as the answer
There would have been any number of pieces. Mainly for strength, and also because it was not always desirable to obtain one dimensioned piece from a single piece of timber.
Here is a little snip from Chuck's cheerful. Note the two long pieces of the keel have an overlapping( there is a technical term for that, but escapes me at the moment) joint.
That joint ( scarf ) might have looked something like this on other ships/boats.
One way to add more detail to a kit, is by scribing lines on the pieces provided in the kit.
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Gregory's post in OcCre Bounty Launch – frames perpendicular to false keel & glue? was marked as the answer
A common tool for squaring bulkheads to false keel are small leggo blocks. Clamp them in place till the glue sets.
Here is an example from another members build. Your model might require a different arrangement, but the principle would be the same.
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Gregory's post in Strategy reducing plank width consistently was marked as the answer
This is something I put together quickly to demonstrate, so it could be refined somewhat.
I have this real hard melame/mdf stuff, but I'm thinking aluminum might be better.
I glued ( just tacked at each end with CA, so it could be easily removed later ) a strip the same thickness and length as my target, to the MDF. The little vertical piece acts as a stopper.
Note one end is 5mm from the edge of the MDF. The other end is 4mm. At this point you could probably just lay your strip to be tapered against the template above and trim with Xacto blade or scalpel and follow with a little sanding .
I took another option and clamped the smaller piece of MDF onto the template and trimmed from there. The target still has a tendency to move around, so you have to make sure it stays flat against the jig.
Make sure the business side of the two MDF pieces are flush.
I also thought I might screw the jig together for a tighter fit.
After the blade, I did a little sanding.
4mm On one end.
5 On the other.
Let me know if I can explain any better.
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Gregory's post in Ratlines was marked as the answer
Good point.
This can be distracting on an otherwise excellent model when the knots scale to something about tennis ball size or bigger.
Ratlines on Victory.
Lees says ratlines are 1.75" circumference. About .5" diameter.
This scales to .01" at 1:48. At 1:64 its close to .008"
The smallest rope at Ropes of Scale is .009, so this would be a good match at 1:48. Syren has .008 and .012. At smaller scales you are looking at single strand thread to get a reasonable scale match.
This is a good option. One might also consider just glueing the ratline to the shroud. A little blob of glue will look like a knot.
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Gregory's post in How to measure and line off at the bow was marked as the answer
Hopefully you will take the advice to look at the references given .
Here is another example from Chuck's Cheerful. The green line shows where the first two planks next to the keel are. The first plank next to the keel is the garboard, and you may want to look at Thukydides reference for establishing the garboard plank. I also discounted the next plank because it doesn't lend itself to measuring a width where it meets the stem. You will have to try to achieve the look you see on those two planks and taper them accordingly.
The red line is the distance you will measure to determine the width of the planks at the bow.
If you measure the red line to be 55mm, then would divide 55 by 18 to get 3.05 mm for the width of your planks at the red line.
Since your number may be something that is really hard to measure for cutting, such as 3.05 mm, then you may want to use just 3mm ( just an example as your actual number will probably be different ), and have one or two planks a little bigger.
You could just fit them in at the end.
Unless you follow the planking practices you have been given, you will not have an easy time achieving something like the picture above.
Look at the many build logs for Cheerful and Alert. The planking details may not be well documented in all of them, but it will be in a few like the one Thukydides pointed you to.
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Gregory's post in Using wood as decking for a plastic hull model? was marked as the answer
Check out HisModel and Amazon. I see they have wooden decks for Cutty Sark.
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Gregory's post in Adding new content & pictures to a new build log was marked as the answer
Yes
Yes
After you add the pictures, you can place the cursor to the right of a picture and press 'enter. You may then add text under the picture.
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Gregory's post in Blades for Artesania Latina Cutter was marked as the answer
They have these at Cornwall Model boats
You might be surprised how low the shipping can be. Very competitive with cost from someplace like Micromark or ModelExpo.
Ages of Sail has what looks like the same thing for a different tool. You would have to check the dimensions.
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Gregory's post in Gluing - a curiosity question was marked as the answer
For PVA or CA not to work suggests a problem with lack of porosity.. Sounds like the wood is sealed one way or another.
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Gregory's post in Deciphering AL plans! was marked as the answer
Do you have any other rigging references ( not necessarily the Bounty ) ?
The necessary rigging to control the yards and sails of any 16th -19th century sailing vessel would have been virtually
the same across many types of ships for the period in question..
If you plan on doing any future modeling, a couple of good books will help with either kits or scratch building.
Historic Ship Models – by Wolfram zu Mondfeld has all the basic rigging.
Rigging Period Ship Models by Lennarth Petersson is also very good, with every rope and line found on a 3 masted ship.
Note that Petersson documented the rigging of a contemporary model, and sometimes models had errors, but the general arrangement would be pretty consistent.
The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War by James Lees is also very good, but not as user friendly as the other two books. Also it can be a bit pricey, but gooddeals can be found.
You can rest assured, AL does not have a unique rigging plan for Bounty or any other ship.
They have drawn upon standard references, as have all kit manufacturers, and sometimes ( often? )with over-simplification and outright errors.
On the other hand, someone who has built the AL Bounty, might be able to share how they handled this particular problem.
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Gregory's post in Identification of this please (solved TY all) was marked as the answer
Your photo appears to be from the CAF kit of Granado
Creating such a jig for a particular build, that didn't include the plans for a jig, would be as much an endeavor as the model itself.
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Gregory's post in How to follow a forum? was marked as the answer
At the top of each forum is a follow button. Click on it to have the option to follow that forum.
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Gregory's post in Ramin wood vs. basswood was marked as the answer
Here is the bender I use for long planks.
The soaking is not to soften the wood, it's to better transfer the heat when applied.
In my method, after the plank is completely dried after heating, letting it sit in the jig till it cools, it will stay bent when you remove it.
In your example you can bend both ends... The jig doesn't have to match your bend perfectly. In fact, a little over bending will cause it to grip the bulkheads when you glue it up.
You can see how one could adapt the principle to different jigs with pegs and such. The key is to heat the wood while it is bent, and keep it bent while it cools.
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Gregory's post in Pictures in wrong order was marked as the answer
I don't know if this will help anyone, I have got in the habit of just opening a folder nearby where my pictures reside and just dragging and dropping my images to the current cursor position, rather than choosing and uploading pictures. Here is a little video that shows how I created the post that follows.
Posting images.mp4
Then I drag another after moving my cursor to a new line...
And another..
Now I continue typing my text and pictures are where I want them to be..
I can also go to the " Uploaded images " area and click on the trash can if I want to delete an image..
If I put an image in the wrong place, or want a different image, I just delete it with the trash can. Put my cursor where I want the new image, and drag the image to the cursor position.
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