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  1. I rediscovered why I need a finishing sander and Dremel. Now that I am confident about the template stations, it is time to shape the hull down using those templates. Per the guide, I decided to start right in the middle, station 3. I brought 3 templates - 3,5,7 - out with me, mounted up and got started, figuring it wouldn't take me too long to do those. I should have been more aware. I managed to get station 3 nicely shaped down on both sides, starboard and larboard (I am doing the ship from 1812 🙂 ), in around 30 minutes of tiring my hand. I will need to be careful -
  2. Thanks Bill! I have to keep reminding myself that this is a multi year project, so an extra few hours or day to try something, and dump it if it doesn’t work in favour of something else, is more than worth it.
  3. I had to go back to the drawing board. But I finally managed to get the templates marked. Hopefully this is useful for someone else. Here’s what I did. 1. the keel rabbet is ready and has all of the stations marked on it from the profile 2. I picked one station, 3, and drew the template marking at the top of the hull and slightly down. 3. I took a small level, stood it up such that its length goes from keel to top of hull. Use the bubble to ensure it is perfectly level. 4. close one eye and keep moving such that I just lose sight of the black line on the side of the leve
  4. I haven’t had much time to work on it, got some time today. I got my profile sanded down very well, I’m extremely pleased. Then I got the template markings clear on the keel rabbet. I then marked WL10/WL32 at the bow and stern, and the waterline at the bow and stern. Then it’s time to attach a pencil to a stack of books at the exact height and run it around. My smooth kitchen counter is perfect for this. then I realized that because my mounted block is mounted to the gundeck, so placing it on the counter means it’s tilted off to the side. Of course, I only realize
  5. I’m somewhat unsure about the stern, specifically with regards to the path from the keel to the counter. Some of the diagrams in the book show it as a narrow straight like all the way up, while others seem to show a flaring or widening as it goes up, from about halfway up. The flaring makes sense, but I’m unsure. If it is a flaring, I’ll have to use some putty. I cut a bit too much away on the starboard side. On the other hand, there don’t appear to be any templates for that, so I don’t know what “too much” would be.
  6. This turned out to be a good call, both redoing the profile on Bristol board, and shaping the profile before getting to the templates. It shows some nice shape, and I have a solid plan for going forward. hand sander and dremel with a small drum turned out to be invaluable. This would have taken many hours by hand, especially the stern. Flat file, rat tail file and half round were really helpful. Pics are attached.
  7. Thanks @KHauptfuehrer It’s actually kind of hard to get it right, and I’d love to get some good ideas. If there are referenced build logs that have solved this, please do link them. what I really would like, but have no idea how to do it, would be a frame that held all of the templates in place, so I could adjust each one. I imagine whatever frame they built the original ship in was like that, but this is small scale. I’ve sort of backed off of my above approach, and am going to switch a bit. I am going to shape the hull profile first, which will allow the templat
  8. Yeah, that is a pretty fair point @MrBlueJacket. 😃 What are your thoughts on the questions above? I ended up starting to do the first problem as follows: Put the template for C aligned (position fore vs aft) with the marking on the keel rabbet (I love saying that; it sounds like some fancy breed of animal) Use a small level aligned with the horizontal line marked "base line to top of keel rabbet" on the template to get the template horizontal to the model but also the floor take the same level and hold it vertically against the template to keep it stiffer and en
  9. Time for next challenge: marking the hull templates. The profile is done, and it is easy to see where all of the stations along the keel rabbet are (I was sure that auto-correct was going to switch "rabbet" to "rabbit", but it surprised me). You then need to extend the templates up the hull. Doing that in a consistent way with a consistent distance between them is proving to be challenging. I have them all cut out onto Bristol board, so there is some stiffness. Since all of the templates have the horizontal lines on them, I align it with the hull, use a small level against that lin
  10. Thanks @schooner that makes sense. I will leave the template at the red line and cut to that, and then do blue if that is what is needed.
  11. Another quandary, fairly early on. These two pictures show the scale profile used on cut out the board and use as a template to shape the hull, as well as the not-to-scale outline from the book. It looks from the plan like the proper place for profiling is the red line I added above, but I’m uncertain for several reasons: - the book outline shows more straight lines than curving, implying that the curvature I have under the counter is incorrect - the picture of the shaped hull by @jfinan here also looks like that, with the part coming up from the keel, just
  12. I also discovered that the block was about 4" height, but my longest nails (left over from a drywalling job a few years back) were 3.5". So I took a drill bit slightly wide than the screw head, drilled 1.5" into the block, then a pilot hole 0.5" below that, and was able to get the screw through the block, sticking out the bottom just enough to hold the hull solidly. You can see the wider holes in the upper picture above. As for the three holes? The screw went in on an angle in one of the holes, so I just did another, with a deeper pilot hole. No problem.
  13. My new workbench arrived, as did the dewalt hand sander. Finally found time to sand down the block of wood (it shouldn’t matter, as it’s only temporary, but a few splinters convinced me otherwise), then drill the screws in. Needless to say, we had to take a detour. The battery on my drill ran down, I put in the replacement, and it was dead. Charger didn’t light up. Turned out to be the charger, not the batteries, so I got that replaced and finished the job. Looks like I’m ready to start shaping and sanding the hull.
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