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allanyed

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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. Well executed. The lesson should be useful to many a schooner builder here. Allan
  2. Ed, You continue to amaze. Treenailing is good to get one into a meditative state. Sort of like zoning out while driving and you have no recollection whatsoever of the previous 10 or 20 km. You look at the hull and think, when did I put in those last 100 treenails???? I WISH it was like that. Allan
  3. Sumpter 250 I see that was your first post. You posed some well thought out questions, but you may be better off starting a new subject here in the rigging forum. I am sure you will get answers to all your questions. Hint, Bosun's chair is part of the set of answers. Also, please be so kind as to post a little about yourself in the new members forum so everyone has a chance to meet you and get to know a little about you, including your name (if it is not Sumpter250.) Thanks Allan
  4. In addition to the fantastic build itself, your photos are showing some very nice detail on the jig set ups and much appreciated. Small, simple, and used to good effect. Allan
  5. Alan, Sorry, yes there are only two pages with information. Should have looked for blanks on the original Excel pages. Allan
  6. Alan, Maybe the following will help a bit. It has the scantlings from the Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture, SR and the Elephant contract. Allan 74 gun frames.pdf
  7. Alan, Gary beat me to the punch. I will dig out the scantlings on the framing from the Repository, Steel and the contract and try to put them side by side when I get home tonight. The contract for Bellerphon may be the most accurate for your project, but do not be surprised if the scantlings in the contract do not match the drawings. As built drawings are best if they exist. Allan
  8. I agree with Mark, the aft magazine was not a filling room, it is an area for racks for cartridges filled in the filling room forward. From there they can be more easily provided to the aft guns than bringing them from the forward magazine, especially in time of battle. Allan
  9. Dan, I do remember your jig and I have not doubt it works, but for me, it is easier and quicker to spile a plank. Again, to each his own, there are always multiple ways to skin the proverbial cat. wq, (I really wish you would share a name...if that is truly your name, how is it pronounced? ) No push back taken, no problem there, this has been a good discussion and hopefully has not caused too much confusion for those that have tried neither method up to now. In the end we will probably find a fifty/ fifty split for the newbies. Cheers Allan
  10. Hi wq3296 You described what I think are stealers that fill gaps, typically at the stern. Spiling is shaping every plank as there are no standard planks on a ship other than perhaps the straight pieces found in the quick work. If you take a look at a drawing of the planking expansion available for some of the old ships, every plank has some shape to it other than straight and each strake varies in width across its length. Some widen near the stern, most, if not all reduce near the bow. Granted, some of the pieces of a given strake near the dead flat will be so close to straight that slight bending can easily be done at the scales we use. All of this is explained in good detail in the tutorials in this forum. Allan
  11. Daniel, It appears that Rob is following the drawings closely. Attached are sections from the original plans for Blanche, Euryalus, et al. the aft magazine is indeed quite a small space. Allan
  12. Hi Augie, If you bend the wood first, as with your jig, is it difficult to mark and taper each piece? The taper is not a constant from widest portion to narrowest, and each plank ends at a different point along the length of the hull so each piece has to be shaped slightly differently. The jig would have to be modified quite a few times as the curve changes for every strake, especially at the bow. I would think it is much more difficult and time consuming to mark and shape the taper on a prebent plank even if you do not modify the shape of the jig more than a few times as the planking goes on. In the end, whatever works well is a good thing! Allan
  13. Alan, The frames were beveled inboard and outboard so there was a fair line running from stem to stern and to give a flat surface on which to fay the strakes of planking. Your picture on the right is the what you need to achieve. As you get nearer the bow and stern, the beveling was extreme before cant frames became the norm early in the 18th century. The green line on the stern looks odd to me. What does this represent? Thanks for sharing your work with us. Allan
  14. If the wood is soft and wet you can slightly bend (edge set) and it will stay in that shape when dry. Harder woods cannot be easily edge set and will lift. There are several write ups on this site on planking, including spiling. Why fight the wood when you can cut it to the shape that will allow it to lay without trying to fight the wood? Allan
  15. Egen, In the Arming and Fitting by Brian Lavery he goes into these pumps in some detail. Between several designs by Coles and Noble, there are at least two designs that could have been on Euryalus. The last design by Coles was in 1803, but it was not successful and they were removed. Look at the contract in Volume I and you will see confirmation of what Ed T mentions above. It specifically forbade inclusion of masts, pumps, and stove so without a bill of sale, bill of materials or some such paper work there is no telling what was installed. Allan
  16. Ciao Mauro, Your Lettie Howard is looking very nice. Do not forget to scrape a little of the paint on the bulkheads when you glue on the bulkhead stanchions so the glue gets into the wood. . Are you going to include the foretop mast or leave it off as she is rigged today? Thank you for posting the photos.
  17. Drake, Before using lip balm, take a look at the ingredient list and then make sure they are compatible with the rigging line material you are using. There a number of oils and fragrances. and other chemicals, some of which may be harmful to the rigging line over time. Bees wax by itself has no payoff on the lips, it is much too hard so softeners are added. Allan
  18. My oh my what a great mini project! Of course now I have to try this, and once again explain to the boss when she asks why I have patience to try these kinds of things, but little else. I will be blaming you of course, so you are forewarned. Allan
  19. Ed Your attention to the smallest detail is what puts you on a different level. Most builders are not even aware of the details to which you have paid attention, let alone incorporate them into the build. Allan
  20. Druxey, I thought the same thing about the lanterns being opened in the room if it was not the magazine. The drawing I posted earlier, and especially the one below gave me pause. Why are there bulkheads forming a little room to the back of the lantern rather than just opening the lantern inside the gunner's room. Would there be loose powder normally present in the gunner's room? Thanx Allan
  21. Remco, Your build is exceptional and a pleasure to follow. I do have a bit of confusion in my own mind on the bulkhead lanterns. This is not a criticism as the lanterns are VERY nice. They are showing exactly opposite each other. I always thought, (and very possibly incorrectly) that the access to the bulkhead lanterns was from the opposite side of the bulkhead much like the lanterns in the light room. The attached drawing seems to indicate access through the bulkhead, thus my comments. Of course they could have hinged doors inside the room and hang them as shown on Kingfisher, but it was a new one for me, or at least the first time I remember seeing this configuration. Thanks again for sharing your build. Allan
  22. Bob, The drawing of the Ernestina shows what appears to be a king plank on the raised portion, but none forward. Different vessel, different designer, so maybe one of those "either/or" situations. Photos of her deck indicate a king plank aft, as well. Allan
  23. Robert, The breech rope does appear that it will cause the rings to flip and jam the rope. It is also highly unlikely that the running tackle on cannon on a cutter, would have a double and single block on each side. Two singles on each side were the norm except on 32 pounders according to the History of British Sea Ordinance 1523 to 1875 Volume II, by Adriana Caruana. Allan
  24. Further to Gary's post, these were called half bucklers and blind bucklers, the latter of which fully closed off the hawse hole inboard on British ships, at least in the 18th century and into the 19th century. There may have been other methods, but this seems to have been at least one common method of keeping out the water. The manger was present as well to help contain water (and mud, when the hawsers were brought in when raising the anchor) There were relatively large scuppers in this area of the manger as well to let the water run off. Allan
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