allanyed
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Everything posted by allanyed
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Sorry Druxey, my sketch leaves something to be desired. Those were supposed to be lashings, not chain links. Allan -
When searching for drawings of the Euryalus 1803, I found a drawing of an iron tiller that replaced her earlier tiller in 1821. It is secured to the rudder with a wedge and lashings to eye bolts in the rudder. I do not know if this method was used with wooden tillers, but suspect not. The iron tiller did not have a gooseneck that would have kept the tiller from unshipping from the rudder as Druxey mentions above so the wedge may have been only used with this later style tiller. Allan
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Spencer What plans and ship are you working with? The bit of plans that are glued to the frame look like you are cutting at the station lines. The body plan that shows the station lines is not a framing plan, although some frames do in fact fall on the station lines in most cases. If you really feel ambitious, study the lofting articles here at MSW to get any idea on how to draw the other frames. Allan.
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Ed You know that this build of yours will take hours away from the rest of our own builds as we keep checking your progress and studying the photos closely. And a big THANK YOU for doing so!!! Allan
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The deck beams are coming along. The pattern on the plans is odd in at least one place. The photo 9-13-13B of the deck beam locations has a black arrow showing what I mean. This may be a result of one of the refurbishments made since she was originally launched. There are also more typical uses of heavy beams, narrow beams, carlings and ledges, lodging knees and hanging knees. The mast partners are relatively simple designs. The hanging knees are in fact hanging standards as they fay to the bottom of the beams, not the sides of the beams. I added a few of the knees where I plan to leave a bit of the deck uncovered. I am also installing the after cabin bulkheads and deck as I may leave the sliding cover open. There will also be a ladder going from the weather deck down to the cabin deck. Allan
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HMS Naiad 1797 by albert - FINISHED - 1/48
allanyed replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Oh my, another build that I must now follow. Your work has sure started off beautifully! Allan -
Ben, John, Elia, Thank you. As soon as winter sets in and snow covers the golf courses, Effie should move along a bit more quickly. Going slow though does have the advantage of being more of a relaxing project for a change, easier to pay attention to the details and less rework. Allan
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The hull planking is on and first sanding complete. Hand sanding to a fine finish will be next. I left a section of planking off to expose the framing, but I have decided against installing most of the below deck items inside the hull. I left a little DNA on the keelson after a little slip of a chisel, so there is no denying who built this thing. I put in a few inside planks for strength and the two mast steps are in place. The deck frames are started. There are a few carlings where there are deck structures and to set up the masts' partners. Once the deck is framed the stanchions and bulwarks will follow. Allan
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Greg Finally tuned in to your current build. Every bit as precise and beautiful as Pegasus. Will she be fully rigged? Allan
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Dan, Fully rigged, oh my. I look forward to many months (years) of following your build. Maybe it will give me the spark I need to go back to rigging something more complex than a schooner. Keep up the great work. Allan
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Frame faces
allanyed replied to SaturnV's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Richard, Yes they should lie flat on the table unless the futtocks are stepped or tapered in width as they rise. Even so they would probably be "flat" on one side. Allan -
Druxey hit the nail on the head. Scratch or kit. If kits, far fewer tools are needed. They are all desirable but less of a necessity. If scratch, have you considered your library as well as your tool cabinet? Steel, Lavery, Lees and recent publications from Sea Watch books by members of this site that will help you in your endeavors. Allan
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Loblolly Couple points to consider: English walnut has been around for centuries as have ship models. I don't recall ever seeing or reading about walnut being used on the old models. Same for models in France or other parts of the old world. Walnut being rather large trees when mature certainly makes it easier to cut down to modeling size lumber than boxwood for example, yet boxwood is commonly found on contemporary ship models. I suspect it may partially be because walnut is not the greatest wood for ship modeling. My own experience with English walnut is not good but better using American (Black) walnut. It does not fray or splinter like English walnut and seems to be harder than English walnut in that it does hold a nice sharp edge. Walnut sawdust stinks and is a respiratory irritant as well as a skin toxin. I no longer use walnut for these reasons (but I do like to eat nuts from the English walnut better than from black walnut trees.) For me, it is better to use box, castello, some fruit woods such as apple and pear, or a host of other hardwoods. Allan
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Sad, of course it is. But think about it. In 100 years people will look at these phones and shake their heads in amazement at how people had to use a hard device to communicate rather than telepathy or whatever they will be using by then. It will be as interesting to them as ship models are to us. That said, ship models are by far more beautiful and the intricate details that we see were made lovingly by hand, not robotic arms. Allan
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Frame faces
allanyed replied to SaturnV's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Richard, Russ has given good advice. The cant frames indeed lie at an angle, and each cant frame lies at a different angle. They are beveled inboard and outboard to allow the planking to fay completely against the frames as it bends around. These are the most challenging frames to make and to set in place. I usually make a set of card stock templates, one for each angle, then use these to set the table of my sander before sanding the part of the frame that is secured to the deadwood. This assures that the angle on the frame is correct. To chisel or sand the angle by hand is not easy to be as accurate. In the photo it is marked 28 forward and aft which are the two frames at station 28 which was at the aft deadwood. Allan
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Richard, Yes Allan
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Bluto, You have asked for a whole lot of information that by rights takes pages to explain. There are thorough explanations in Ed Tosti's book on Naiad as well as Volume II of Euryalus (36) 1803. These are available from Seawatch Books. You can also get some insight from Ed's really fine build log on the Naiad here at MSWorld. Allan
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If you are painting, oak is probably OK. If it is to be left natural, it is quite grainy and does not look quite right. I am not a fan of walnut for anything except that I have used it for wales on occasion and that was American black walnut. My preference is boxwood, European or Castello, the latter being less expensive and easier to find. Box is strong, holds an edge, and with imperceptible grain in most cases. Allan
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THANKS GUYS. I am looking forward to how detailed I can get at this scale (1/4") compared to Michael's Bristol pilot cutter. That has sort of set the bar for me, particularly the iron work. Allan
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Thanks Druxey, The plans from the Library of Congress are pretty good so it has not been terribly difficult, but alas, there are errors that I have found in the drawings and these take time to solve. Without much in the way of other sources on the hull construction I am having to use common sense and techniques I have seen in books on older ships. I hope to be visiting Effie (now Ernestina) in late August/early September to hopefully find some answers to some of the questions that have arisen. Allan
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A bit of progress has taken place. Frames are made and partially faired. Couple strakes have gone on which has beefed up the rigidity of the framing a lot. I did not do much fairing inboard down low as the lower hold is filled with cement for a good portion of the hull. Still debating about putting in the lower deck and cabin details. If I decide to cut out sections of the framing to expose areas inboard, at least the area where the frames are removed will get some finishing work. With Effie having gone through several transitions, her inboard layout also change a lot. I am probably staying with how she orginally came off the ways, so her layout inboard was simpler and certainly more austere than in later modifications. Keel, stem, deadwood, keelson are Castello box, the frames are poplar. Poplar is normally a bit soft for my own taste, but as all the frames are doubled, and the grain is running opposite on each pair, I had no breakage and the fairing has shown them to be pretty nice to work with, so far. Allan
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Freezer Paper - an awesome tool
allanyed replied to Mahuna's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Certainly much cheaper than blank label paper which I have been using exclusively for a few years now. Will give the freezer paper a try. Thanks for the tip. Allan -
July 25, 1956, 57 years ago tonight, since Andrea Doria and Stockholm collided. Andrea Doria lost 52 souls as a result. Allan
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I have been following your build for a LONG time Gary (maybe back to Green Dolphin Street if I remember the name of that site correctly) and never tire of your postings. She is looking fantastic!\ Allan
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Door hinges
allanyed replied to src's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
The story I heard about the HL hinges was that it stood for Holy Lord and would keep witches out of the house. They must work because I have not seen any (more) witches in my house, since making these hinges for several models. Allan
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