allanyed
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Treenails
allanyed replied to wallyh's topic in Planking Techniques's Click Here for Topics dedicated to planking!!!!
Dave, YOURS IS A BETTER WAY Allan -
Treenails
allanyed replied to wallyh's topic in Planking Techniques's Click Here for Topics dedicated to planking!!!!
I've used, tape, black, blue, and red marker to mark the depth on the drill bit to avoid going too deep and passing through the deck beams and frames. Allan -
Treenails
allanyed replied to wallyh's topic in Planking Techniques's Click Here for Topics dedicated to planking!!!!
BRIAN C What is the smallest diameter you achieve with silver ash? I normally pull down to smallest hole on the Byrne's draw plate with bamboo but have never found another material that can be worked that small. Allan -
Ed, Every deck beam is the same length and then cut in length to fit. Is there a reason you do it this way rather than making each closer to the needed length then field fit? Regardless of why, the whole thing is just great! Allan
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HMS Leopard by gobi71 - 1/300 scale
allanyed replied to gobi71's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Gobi71 Thanks for posting your photos. I have always been a fan of micro scale models, but have not had the fortitude to actually try. I look forward to following your build, but would really like to hear about what techniques and tools you use as you post your photos. Maybe you can teach those of us that would like to try these small scales enough for us to take a chance. If you would be so kind, please let us know your name so we can address you properly rather than Gobi71, Thanks again Allan -
Larry, Look at the framing disposition drawing of the Alfred at the NMM collections site. http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/80355.html It is not the clearest resolution, but far forward it is evident the floors are on the forward side of the paired frames and on the aft side moving aft of the deadflat. You can enlarge it, save and download, and enlarge even more, but it does get fuzzy. Look at Gary Bishops Alfred build. I am not sure you can see this in his earliest photos, but I imagine he would be happy to answer your questions if you post or PM him. His framing is based on the actual framing disposition but is a wealth of information for anyone building the Alfred. Allan
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Danny, The served collars are superb. Your workmanship and attention to detail was evident at the beginning of the build. As good as it was, I think you have gotten even better! Allan
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Endeavour Longboat
allanyed replied to Rick01's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Rick, That is why many builders like to scratch build. The biggest problem with scratch building though is that there is no one to blame for mistakes! Allan -
Endeavour Longboat
allanyed replied to Rick01's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Attached are some photos of a long boat model from NMM that may be of help. Based on the locations of the tholes, it is probably a double banked boat. You may want to take a look at 18th century long boat build forum here at MSW for lots more details Allan
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Endeavour Longboat
allanyed replied to Rick01's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Rick, I apologize if this comes out badly, but there seems to be a couple mistakes in this kit designed boat from what I can see in the photo. There would not be belaying pins as shown, but rather thole pins to keep the oars from sliding forward or aft or space between splash boards' supports. Also, if the boat was single banked (one rower per thwart), the thole pins would not be directly across from each other port and starboard but would alternate for thwart to thwart. If it was double banked (two rowers sitting side by side on a single thwart) there would be thole pins on each side in line with each. Double banked boats were the largest and usually found on much larger ships than the Endeavor. My guess is that it was a single banked boat. Most long boats used one mast, although some did have more than one. I have some doubts that there would be two on a long boat for Endeavor but have no hard evidence to the contrary. There are no frames showing in the model. They would be pretty much exposed. The stem is much to high. The planking does not look at all right. The mast would taper as shown on the attached as well as towards the top. I suspect all the other spars/sprit, etc. would taper as well, but I may be wrong and some one else can confirm or correct. The attached are from Lavery's Arming and Fitting 1600-1815 Allan
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Tony, I spoke with Bob and he does not have any spare disks, they are all wrapped in the books so he agreed I should make a copy from the originals and send your way. I am traveling and out of reach of my files but will burn a copy of the frame drawings on a disk and send your way when I return next week. Please send me your address via PM. Hope this is at least a little good news. Allan
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Tony, I will ask Bob at Seawatch the status. Allan
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I think adding the bolt rope to the model sails should be done, if only to keep the sails from fraying, especially where the mast hoops are tied to the sail. Allan
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Danny, You know the quality is top shelf when you can show those close ups and there are only flawless pieces of workmanship to be seen. Well done and thanks for being willing to show those close up shots. They are very helpful. Allan
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The devil is in the details. Your tank is a great project in itself, and those are the kinds of details that separate the best from the rest! Allan
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I had the privilege to preview this book and see the model while under construction and I can say that it is a must for any scratch builder or kit basher. There are a lot of new areas covered that are not to be found in the TFFM series such as an extremely detaled description on building the galleries, not to mention the design and construction of a ship with the specific purpose of being a fire ship. I was supposed to be proof reading for errors but I became totally engrossed in the text and illustrations and enjoyed the read as much as I found an appreciation for its usefulness to the model builder. Allan
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I have Petersson and TFFM and they are super, especially TFFM. My fall back is James Lees' Masting and Rigging as he addresses lines, line sizes, blocks, the works, for any size British Warship between 1625 and 1860. Allan
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Chris, For length of a hull plank, any length between 25 and 30 feet long would be realistic. The width will vary along the length of each strake. The deck planks will vary as well as in both cases, the ends must land on a frame or beam. In addition, the outer strakes of deck planks in naval vessels often were anchor stock or other variation rather than straight pieces for added strength. A hull will have a number of different thicknesses between the keel and rails. Each deck will have a different plank thickesses as well, plus different dimensions for binding strakes if used. What ship, size, year, etc. are you working on. Allan
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Keel taper
allanyed replied to Redshirt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Daniel, I don't know if they are appropriate to the Eagle, but the scantlings in the 1719 Establishment, the 1788 Shipbuilder's Respository and David Steeles Elements of Naval Architecture all include the sided dimensions of the keel afore, midship and aft. As Druxey mentions above, none of them indicate where the taper begins, and I agree with the assumption that it begins at the cant frames, but it is obvious from these dimensions, there definitely is a reduction in siding. Allan -
Jeff Are you sure the standing rigging for the Wasa was tarred? If it was, would it be more of a dark brown versus black? Maybe the kit is accurate historically in providing tan line. I don't know, just a thought. Allan
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Tim, What ship and year do you have in mind? Bulkheads were not always moveable or removeable. They are describe in a contract of 1666 with no suggestion that they should be removeable, (from Deanes Doctrine page 118 and quoted in Lavery's Arming and Fitting page 172.) Lavery also goes on to state that the bulkheads became lighter and more mobile during the 18th century but even so the captain's cabins on late eighteenth century frigates were permitted some semi permanent bulkheads. By an order of 1779, there were to have "one firm bulkhead at the fore part of the captain's apartments and fixed between two guns so as to admit of their being worked in case of a surprise in the night. The after bulkhead to be of canvas, and fixed as the captain shall desire." Allan
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Richard The index in volume two is several pages long so I will not detail it here, but basically Vol II continues the construction of the hull through completion. Volume III is basically a series of photos of Greg Herbert's build (Well worth having) and IV is masting and rigging. Allan
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Jeff, is the strop on the real block "buried" in the block or on the outside? I have built blocks for buried stropping in layers and if they are really tiny, I have drilled holes to bury the wire versus using a strap, leaving enough out to for an eye. These have been for schooners from 100 years ago. I do not know if this would be appropriate for the J boats, even the oldest ones. Is the following the type you need to make? Allan
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Al, If this was already mentioned above, my apologies, but I did not see it and was surprised it was not mentioned. Not for now, as it is too late unless you want to start over, but for your next challenge, the lower strakes of hull planking should not run so far forward. The planking tutorials as mentioned above are worth their weight in gold so definitely study them. Welcome to the world of ship model building, also known as the angst society. Allan
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Ciao Mauro I like your model very much. The rigging looks very good, including the beautiful knots for the ratlines on the shrouds. I have one question, I hope you don't mind. There is the main sheet block rigged to the horse on the transom, but there is also another block rigged to the same horse. What is the second line? Again, very well done model, thank you for sharing. Allan
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