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Lucius Molchany

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Everything posted by Lucius Molchany

  1. Yes it was effective and the cordless drill is variable speed so it is easy to check your progress as you go.
  2. I had to think of a way to taper down the bowsprit.So I put it in my cordless drill and held a chisel against the rotating bow sprit blank.Then I chucked a coarse sanding drum in my vise and again held it as it rotated. Then I used fine sand paper to smooth it out.
  3. I really like the red dragon head!Looks really fearsome! Is it true it spewed forth fire?
  4. Yes since this kit has rather poor instructions I kinda have to wing it as I go along.Causes me to make mistakes but is useful in teaching me the dos and donts of wooden ship modeling.
  5. Nope, the parts have a definite curve to them.Makes sense as it allowed thge water to roll off.
  6. I had to curve the main deck house's roof so I got creative with a coffee cup and quadruple clamps.
  7. Okay guys,,Before I glue this tiller bar to the rudder post..Should i machine it down thinner than shown.?
  8. Yes well there is a gap in the bulwarks at the front.I will leave it until the bowsprit is installed and then close the gap.Fortunately the 2 walnut pices for the hawespipes will fill the gap nicely..I soaked them for a few hours and clamped them to the edge of an old coffee cup to curve them to fit the bow.
  9. The thickness of the hull planking was uniform on my kit and the deck fit well I did not find it necessary to sand down the bulkheads.I agree that wooden ship building is a whole different world as compared to the plastic models I normally build.It requires a whole different skillset that I am trying to learn before I tackle the multi gun deck warship that I hope to build someday.I never realized how spoiled i was with the perfectly preformed plastic plastic parts in a quality kit that I took for granted.A real reality check for sure!
  10. Yeah be careful how you position the brass rudder mounts.I can also say that the openings for the brass pins are too large and should be carefully squeezed for a tight fit.Just be careful not to squeeze them so much that the pins don't fit.I found out the hard way!
  11. Put the brass hinges on the rudder and stern post.I had to cut the brass nails down and started them my gripping them with my needle nose pliers.Then I crushed them into the wood. I had to cut slots in the inward face of the rudder to accommodate the brass hinges.
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