
Patrick B
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Question: Yesterday, I went to my local hardware store and bought the Watco Tung oil. I plan on using it over pretty much every wooden part of the build. Any suggestions on application and usage? I didn't want to use varnish because it would leave a film all over the nice woodgrain. I hesitated a bit over tung oil and boiled linseed oil, but the linseed oil bottle mentionned that it had a poor shelf life and could darken a lot porous wood, wich is most of the wood I received.
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Hi Capella, if you mesurer a plank 4 mm wide, you're correct! The 5 mm also are, just try another strip that looks a bit wider. Not all the strips are the same size (very small differences). Have a look from some of my remaining strips. By the way, for the wood species type, I asked the same question on my log and someone told me that there is indeed a typo. Go look there, he'll probably explain it better than me.
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You're right, it was tedious, but worth it in my opinion. One thing though, plank one side of the mast's hole and cut it before gluing the other one. Something else, don't press too hard with your mechanical pencil, because the lead may break. I happened to me (see photo) Overall, it makes an impressive work when finished and sanded. Don't go by the instructions. They tell you to glue the plank and then add the caulking from lead. I'll just make a mess and wont be neat. Afterall, do what you prefer. Patrick
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In my own opinion, you shouldn't glue the deck before planking it because the strips will be more difficult to cut at the exact lenght. You could still plank the deck, then glue it with the bulkheads. By the way, if you want to glue the bulkheads before and you are strugling to find something square, try the leftovers from the laser cut pieces. Patrick
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New update: I scratch built the doors because I didn't like the photo-edged ones from the kit. I took 2 pieces of sycamore and stained them with the sapelli stain from Occre (works well). I then added two strips of sycamore that I carved and rounded the side. I made a door frame, a door knob with a nail and finally, I enhanced the carving with a citadel wash.
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Hi, it took more time than said so. I live in Canada, so the supposed delivery time was 7 working days. However, it took 11 working days plus 5-6 days for them to make the package before even sending it. As I sais, it depends from where you live in the world. Hope this answers your question. Tell us when you will start your build log. I will follow along too.
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Hi, some minor improvement on the deck. I have cut each strips 60mm in lenght and ran a lead pencil against it to simulate caulking. I think I will try staining it in sapelli dye or meaby just put some flaxseed oil. My only concern is that I fear that the lead will smear... Has anyone ever tried this before, oiling up a deck?
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Little bit of an uptade here, I asembled the hull (squeleton) and started sanding it at the bow. I made some place in my cabinet. You can also see the plate they sent me with thr name of the ship. A nice touch to me. Everything seemed to be in the package. Keep in mind that this is my first (real) ship, as I already made a cheap knockoff of some boat bought on aliexpress. I know I shouldn't have but I didn't want to ruin a costly kit. I have learned of my mistakes from this little boat. One of them was to chose price over quality. Haha Many people seemed to agree that this ship (Beagle) from occre was a great beginner kit. I liked the amount of details for such a small price (≈180 cad)!
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Hi, may I ask you: what color fif you use for staining? Just bought the occre sapelli stain and was wondering if this is the color it makes.
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Thanks for the warm welcome everyone.
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I everyone, new to the hobby and happy to start. Built a kit from wish to make my teeths but will NEVER buy again anything else than real kit makers and vendors. Just bought the HMS Beagle from occre, should arrive tomorrow. Upcoming build log so stay tuned. Any tips and tricks for starting will be welcome. Patrick B
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