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Firs49

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Posts posted by Firs49

  1. On 6/21/2024 at 1:20 PM, LucienL said:

    Thank you for the comment. I’ve realised now that I didn’t actually include very many details of how I did the hammocks in this log.

     

    I used a thin piece of fabric similar in texture to the sails used in the kit. I’m not sure where I found the fabric. I would cut a 1 cm by 1 cm square and roll it as tightly as I could. I would then use a bit of CA glue to seal it and then fold the roll of fabric in half  (with the edge of the fabric facing inwards) with some CA glue again to hold it in place. Then I cut the roll with fabric scissors. The dimensions ended up at 0.3 cm width (the width of the space in the rail) and 0.38 cm long. There was some quality control where I would throw out the ones that didn’t look quite right. Then I would place them in the rails and check with a ruler to ensure that there were the same number of hammocks on each side of the ship, some squeezing or adjustment was necessary with tweezers. After the rails were full, I brushed some varnish over the hammocks to help keep them clean.

     

    I hope this helps, I tried a few different things including using wire to help with the rolling and holding them in shape but eventually found that it wasn’t really necessary.

    Brilliant. Thanks for sharing your approach. I am still quite a way off reaching the hammocks but will definitely give your method a go.

  2. 15 hours ago, Geordy Aidan said:

    Having put a a model of HMS Supply to one side because I was constantly being asked by the family how the Beagle was going.  I opened the packaging and I have to say that whilst my initial reaction was this looks OK BUT on closer inspection I have discovered my first major problem The False Keel has a twist to it!  That is not good especially as these models are not cheep.

     

    So I have soaked the false keel in boiling water then clamped it between two pieces of 20 mm  MDF and left it to dry for three days.  When I removed it it still has a warp towards the stem forward of frame 4 and a twist towards the stern aft of frame 10.

     

    I am attaching the frames and gluing them using Lego Blocks to hold them square  and then adding  stiffeners in at deck level.  I will add larger blocks to fill in the voids forward of frame 4 and aft of frame 10.Legosupport.thumb.jpg.41adfc4156aebe76bec49e1d6eee4521.jpgTwisttoKeel.thumb.jpg.99beb6369330d93a94c4ee6f847fe588.jpg

    If you are not happy with the part then I would go on the Occre website and request a replacement. I did this for a couple of parts in my Beagle kit and they replaced them free of charge and I received them within a week of requesting which considering they came from Spain I think is a great service.

  3. 13 hours ago, RossR said:

    This was my first model also.  I had not discovered this site yet when I did my planking.  I used the instructions and the Occre YouTube videos to instruct me.  
     

    This is not the historically accurate way to plank a hull.   If planking it in a historically accurate manor is important to you, there are many resources on the site and YouTube.   Look at TLevine’s half hull project on the sight and Chuck Passaro’s YouTube videos.  I will caution you that I am not convinced the very thin second layer material from Occre is suited to Chuck’s technique.  
     

    My goal on that model was just to build Occre’s version of the HMS Beagle.   I enjoyed myself enough to build a second ship and now I have a couple more on the shelf.  My future ships will be planked using more accurate techniques.  But I think I would have failed if I had attempted it on my first model.   
     

    My advice is to decide what is important to you on this build, look at the material available on the site and from Occre and decide how you want to proceed based on that research. 
     

    Good luck.  
     


     

     

    Thanks Ross. At this stage I'm not so worried about historical accuracy but something that turns out reasonably on a visual basis.

  4. So planking around the bulwarks is nearly complete now so I am reaching out for advice. I have studied various approaches to planking the hull which are quite varied so I could do with some pointers on would be the best approach for someone who has never planked a hull before. I know the first planking layer is not so critical but I would like it to act as a guide for the second layer. Any comments welcomed. Thanks

  5. 36 minutes ago, brunnels said:

    I found a little hobby saw blade attachment for my razor blade made tasks like cutting the cannon ports way easier.  They will need to be cut open a couple more times during the planking.

     

    This is what I use. 

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SQQHD9M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Thanks for the hint. I have got something similar but found it a bit harsh on the narrow strips. Hopefully it will better on the planking strips.

  6. 37 minutes ago, RossR said:

    I did the same thing on my Beagle.  Definitely a weak spot were the bulwark narrows.  Should be fixable, but if you want to wait a few weeks, Occre is happy to send a replacement part.  They are mailed from Spain, so depending were you live it can take a few weeks.  You can order the part on their website, but I would suggest fixing and not waiting.  

    Yep gone for the fix

  7. 1 hour ago, ccoyle said:

     

    Did you pre-soak the bulwarks? Best thing to do is to soak the plywood until it can easily be bent, then temporarily pin the piece to the hull (no glue) and allow it to dry. The shaped piece is then much easier to glue in place.

    Hi Chris. I did soak it but I don't think it was for long enough. Lessons you learn along the way!!

  8. 15 hours ago, brunnels said:

    Those look great, I like the simplicity of the right one personally.  I just took my doors off the model again this morning as I am not happy with them, I might have to steal your door idea. 

    Thanks for the feedback. That is the way I am going to go with one addition and that is thinning the doorframe down with a scalpel. If it helps I glued a 1/32" thick piece of basswood to the photoetch door - to get the same size and also gives a bit of thickness to glue the frame to. I used the sapelli stain on this basswood and the two inserts on the door were from planking lefts overs with edges sanded. The door knob was from a pin in the kit which was snipped and glued and the frame came from the small square pieces in the kit that are meant for something else later in the build which I hopefully won't run short of now.

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