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Everything posted by J Snyder
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FYI I just picked up a good selection of basswood at a fair discount at Joann Fabrics as they are going out of business.
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My dad had a steel 40 footer built by a friend that we used for salmon and albacore fishing up and down the coast. One of those not so pacific days near Point Arena I began to worry that the windows would not hold as we had green water covering them much of the time. Every point and cape was always a tough slog going north.
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I agree completely! Question: did the blocks come with the kit or did you buy them separately?
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Question re "Line Off"
J Snyder replied to JohnWW's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Please take this advice with the proper amount of skepticism as I have not built a double planked hull. I think it would be a good idea to practice lining out on the first layer. The concern I would have is that the seams on the second layer will be very close to the seams on the first and could cause problems. Perhaps start the first layer with a garboard plank at a slight angle making it twice as wide at the stern then the bow then do the lining out from there. On the 25ft. sloop I helped build the garboard was at least twice the width of the rest of the planks and we did the lining off from there. That helped get the rest of the planks to a reasonable shape. If that would be too confusing at least make sure you prebend the second layer planks to fit without any pressure before fastening. Again I want to repeat that I have not built a double plank model before! -
Thanks again to all for the kind comments. One thing that would help with the directions would be to change some of the photos from the prototype (of the model not the full size) to using photos from the kit supplies.
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I hadn't thought about a case. Maybe I'll build something.
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Thank You all. This forum is a great resource for not only information but for encouragement to continue and I will continue. I have already started disassembling the belt sander for the conversion to a thickness sander.
- 76 replies
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Pram is FINISHED! I got the outhaul lashings, halyard, and the mail sheet installed. For anyone that may use this I had scaled up the sail to 115% that was a mistake 105% to 110% would have been better. I should have ironed the sail cloth before painting on the thinned glue mixture as to of the creases didn't come out. I learned a lot, not on the construction or rigging of the boat but on working at a small scale, even though this was only 1:12. I have never used tweezers so much in my life. I kept trying to grab things with my fingers only to be frustrated and have to grab the tweezers. I'm not sure if I should post the picture here or some where else. It will be awhile before the next build as I need to work on the car I am building (Locost 7). I am also looking at converting an old belt sander into a thickness sander. I will try to post some photos of the conversion if it works. Still not sure if I will build the Lobster Smack or scratch build the Gary Thomas.
- 76 replies
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I laced the sail to the gaff and started on the boom and found I had forgotten to put the cleat on the boom. I had hoped to have the pram finished by now but now I need to let the cleat dry. I also found I installed the eyes on the boom on the wrong side. It will still work but the gooseneck will be on the other side then the plans show.
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I forgot to mark out some seam lines before I put on the reinforcements on the first side. I turned over the sail and marked them out and installed the corner reinforcements and the other side batten pockets. Just waiting for it to dry.
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Working on the sail. The layout in the instructions like all of the drawings is under size so I copied at 115% which fits the boom and gaff better. I am using the supplied sail cloth on this model to get it done. We will see how it looks, I'm not a big fan of real cloth on models as it looks out of scale usually. Instead of gluing the wood strips on for battens I am just gluing a fabric strip on each side as batten pockets (I hope that it will be stiff enough).
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Thanks, yes the line seems really nice. There is a interesting assortment in the box, a few small boats, some blocks, deadeyes, belaying pins, and more.
- 76 replies
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I got the eyes in the boom and gaff. I worked on the oars (just two) sanded and sealed then put on the leathering. I am not a fan of the cloth for the sail. I think I will try using silk span if it doesn't work I try to find something with a tighter weave. The line that came with the kit looks kind of shiny and as I had an old cigar box from my great uncle with a few things from his model building days including some old line I am using that.
- 76 replies
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I got the spars sanded and I put a wipe on layer of poly. For the mast chafing pad Rather than the paper painted to look like copper I thinned out a piece of copper and used it as per the actual pram. After the poly dries I will finish the fittings. The mast step hole is larger then the end of the mast so I think I will make a copper band to fill the space. To block the clutter in the back I set a picture of one of the boats I helped build at the school near Fort Bragg.
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The top of the stand and the mast that I thought my be cherry was of course poplar. As it was obvious as soon as I started working with it. Anyway for the mast, I drilled the needed holes, tapered the ends, planed it to eight sided, then sanded it round. One picture is reversed.
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I went brain dead cutting the brass rod. Instead of two pieces 3" long I cut two over 6" long. At least I have plenty. I'm going to have a hard time gluing the boat to the stand. Here it is setting on the stand. I'm glad I cut the mast blank from 1/4" stock as it warped some but after planing to size it is nice and straight. I have it marked out for the tapers.
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I started on the stand but couldn't bring myself to use the supplied parts. I found a piece of birch from an old cabinet and a section of brass welding rod that I will use. For the cradle I copied the supplied pieces to 1/4" cherry (I think) as I needed something thicker. Sealed in wipe on poly. Gluing up he mast halves I messed up with the alinement and cant use the dowels as they are bent so I cut a piece of the cherry and will use it.
- 76 replies
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I've looked through your build and used it for help with mine. Thank you for a great build.
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I put some tape down and stuck the floor boards to it lining them up. Then I taped the top side and after cleaning of some of the paint under where the boards would set, applied glue and moved the whole bunch into position. After the glue sets I will remove the tape.
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It's has a little more green tint them my computer screen shows but ether way it's done. I am going to let It dry some and install the floor boards.
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Thanks I couldn't decide on Blue or Green so I just mixed them together.
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I don't know if I like the bow. The stern looks ok but I think there is to much color on the bow.
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I decided on the paint colors. I am using Magic Fly acrylics (something my wife picked up for some signs)? for the outside I added a drop of Burnt Umber to the White to tone it down. On the inside, dagger board, and rudder I mixed Sky Blue, Emerald Green, And White to get a Aqua Marine color. I wanted the rub rail the interior color and I continued it around the bow and stern. Looks like I will have to do some wet sanding of those.
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