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J Snyder

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Everything posted by J Snyder

  1. J Snyder
    Jim, I think it will start to look like a boat soon. Keith, Yes but with only 15 planks per side I will need a few more boats and different shapes before I get good at it. I got two more from the garboard on and I am working on the sheer strake. I'm using 1/8" (3.2mm) stock for the sheer strake because there is a lot of curve at the stern for a nice width plank. The last two molds have a lot of curve at the top so I used a small gouge to cup the end of the planks and sanded the out side down to 3/32" (2.4mm) so the sheer will be a little thicker then the rest of the planking. I have been "steaming" or boiling the planks using a microwave. Then I dry them with a MonoKote heat sealing tool.
  2. J Snyder
    Slow start on the planking. I made a pattern for the garboard plank and to my surprise both sides are the same! Tomorrow put some twist and bend where needed and glue them down. The widest point on the garboard turned out to be 5-1/2 inch a far cry from the nearly 12 inch we used In the full size boat.
  3. J Snyder
    I got the plank layout finished. I started with laying a 1/2" wide batten to see how planks would lay naturally. But that would cause the planks to sweep up and end on the sheer so they will all have a curve to the keel at the bow and slightly at the stern. I know this is not unusual but I was surprised that much of the mid stations don't need any curves. When I start cutting the planks this will be seen.
  4. J Snyder
    I need to correct something the wood I am using now is Basswood not Boxwood. I pick up a quantity from JoAnns going out of business sale. But of course most of it is not thin enough for the planking so I need to order more.
  5. J Snyder
    Well, I got the low sections raised with some boxwood strips. and the fairing is good enough. Now comes the planking layout. On the full size boat we made the garboard from a full dimension 2" x 12" plank planed down and shaped to follow the curve of the molds. I will check and see if that makes sense in scale.
  6. J Snyder
    There's a lot of ship and weight under water for stability when loaded. "Don't worry crew the load is wood and wood floats!" As for the trip south. In good weather the swells usually are from the northwest by west the perfect conditions for long slow rolls. Are 40 footer would roll over 30° some times. In bad weather going around the points we had very confused seas coming from all directions.
  7. J Snyder
    I haven't got much done on the model after starting to fair the molds I am disappointed in the section lines accuracy that I used to cut out the molds. Now, I know that the lines should always be drawn full size using the table of offsets and I attempted that in a couple of different CAD programs and I found quite a few problems with the table which left me puzzled (one or two off by one foot but many off by unusual amounts) so I went with the sections as drawn for this model. I should clarify the years ago when I joined the boat building class almost all the lines had all ready been laid down and faired on the loft floor so I didn't get to experience the frustration of deciding which point to disregard or where to fit the line for a fair curve. I just spent some time using the free version of DELFTship. After transferring the lines using the table into the program I used them as a guide to see where to disregard areas for fair lines and still get the shape and dimensions of the boat. And as typical of me much time was spent trying to do simple things like changing layer names. I don't think you can with the free version? If it is posable I could not find a way to do so! I got the hull looking "fair" so next time I can use the CAD file for the molds. I will get back to work on the existing model and fix the problematic areas.
  8. J Snyder
    Paul, you do beautiful work. Even the unseen is well done. I look forward to the rest of the build. One question I have is as our building to the displacement water line are you planning on setting a load of lumber on deck? It would be a shame to cover that beautiful deck.
  9. J Snyder
    Because of not extending the stem I had to figure out a way of holding the top. So I cut a block and inserted a steel pin that fit into a hold drilled into the stem. Then I tapered the deadwood. Next up the transom.
  10. J Snyder
    Yes, I got the prototype build method in my head and a lot of kit build photos so trying to blend them is a challenge. Like the keel assembly I cut out all the pieces like the prototype when I could have made it in one piece.
  11. J Snyder
    I tried to get the molds to stand vertical but carefully making them but I had to resort to shimming with a piece of paper under the back half of the mountings. I cut some basswood strips and and soaked them in a glass of water that I boiled in a microwave. I am forming the boxwood on the edge of the molds for added support for the planking.
  12. J Snyder
    Well a lot of things to figure out. And I already regret using hardboard for the molds. That's what inexperience and a supply of hardboard gets you. I fastened the molds from the bottom of the building board so I can remove them individually. I'm thinking of adding frames to the edge of the molds to add to the gluing area.
  13. J Snyder
    Thanks for the comments guys. It is not the safest car for sure. At stop lights I can see under a lot of lifted pickups. That's one reason I painted it bright colors. Just one more comment, it is not a kit, I built it from plans in a book.
  14. J Snyder
    Yes Chris, You figured it out. Sorry for the confusion. Keith, I hope not! I hope to build a series of them getting more detailed as I go finishing with one with full interior in a larger scale maybe 1:12 or 1:10
  15. J Snyder
    I was one of two that worked on the full size one from lofting to sending it off. It was a wonderful experience to build the real boat and I look forward to building the model.
  16. J Snyder
    I am starting on my first scratch build of the boat I helped build as a student at a boat building school near Fort Bragg, California in the 70s. I have some mulberry wood that I am using for the stem, keel and deadwood. It has pronounced grain but is free and available. I haven't decided on the level of detail for this first scratch build. I built a thickness sander attachment for my drill press to get the lumber down to size and got started. Gary Thomas Sail plan.pdf
  17. J Snyder
    I took some time off from boat models to finish and license my roadster. I don't want to take up to much space here but I wanted to show off my car. The build log can be found at: https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6245 As Haynes V6 RX-7 build
  18. J Snyder
    Thank you
  19. J Snyder
    I finely got around to making a case for the Pram. The sides and top are 3/32" Lexan and the base is some Mulberry wood I had under one of my benches. It was checked so bad I had to cut it up and laminate to get the width I needed. It doesn't match the stand but It will have to work. First time working with Lexan definitely different way of working then I'm use to. Hope to do better next time.
  20. J Snyder
    FYI I just picked up a good selection of basswood at a fair discount at Joann Fabrics as they are going out of business.
  21. J Snyder
    My dad had a steel 40 footer built by a friend that we used for salmon and albacore fishing up and down the coast. One of those not so pacific days near Point Arena I began to worry that the windows would not hold as we had green water covering them much of the time. Every point and cape was always a tough slog going north.
  22. J Snyder
    My Craig, I am enjoying looking through your great work. I love the pacific coast trawlers since my fishing days out of Fort Bragg, and you have built a lovely one.
  23. J Snyder
    I will be following your build also. The work you did on the fishing gear for the Dory is fantastic.
  24. J Snyder
    I agree completely! Question: did the blocks come with the kit or did you buy them separately?
  25. J Snyder
    Please take this advice with the proper amount of skepticism as I have not built a double planked hull. I think it would be a good idea to practice lining out on the first layer. The concern I would have is that the seams on the second layer will be very close to the seams on the first and could cause problems. Perhaps start the first layer with a garboard plank at a slight angle making it twice as wide at the stern then the bow then do the lining out from there. On the 25ft. sloop I helped build the garboard was at least twice the width of the rest of the planks and we did the lining off from there. That helped get the rest of the planks to a reasonable shape. If that would be too confusing at least make sure you prebend the second layer planks to fit without any pressure before fastening. Again I want to repeat that I have not built a double plank model before!

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