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Nightdive

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Everything posted by Nightdive

  1. Nightdive
    Good to know, I'll need to check out that part of your build log again. I'll try adding two small extra bits of wood to mine first, the seam might not be too visible in a black part.
  2. Nightdive
    Happy new year to you too! Gunwales are now installed and gunports painted. I filed and re-painted them multiple times to make the laminated structure of the sides less obvious. No masking was needed when using a tiny brush and painting from the inside of the ship. I ran into some issues with the side timbers and transom rail, highlighted in red. There's probably something wrong with my counter installation, or it might just be that all the small deviations over the course of the build are catching up with me on these last few parts. I can probably sand the counter to fit the transom rail, but side timbers need to be modifed or new ones cut from scratch.
  3. Nightdive
    I've made some good progress since my last update. Before gluing the deck on I performed some experiments with LED lights, and light was shining through even when both decks were in place. A layer of black paint seems to block it. I also painted the visible parts of the interior black. Fitting the inner bulwarks and spirketting on was fairly straightforward, but I had to add a small extension piece to one of them. I built the hatch stays out of 0.5 mm aluminium sheet. I sanded it down to 0.3 mm after cutting the pieces. They were very tricky to install, but I think that the end result looks nice. I used brass pins for door handles and PE-21 hinges from the 0.2 mm PE sheet. There are only six of them and the manual says that they are "not in use", but I assume that they were originally intented for the port lids. I might try to fake those eight missing hinges with paint. The ladder was copied from the kit ladder and took me three tries to get right. I look forward to continuing this project next year. Many interesting phases of the build remain ahead. Merry Christmas everyone!
  4. Nightdive
    Looks great!
  5. Nightdive
    The companionway is almost ready for paint. I also found a better way to make its footprint slightly larger. I'd greatly appreciate any opinions on the hatch stay that Caldercraft's HMS Pickle has. I'm considering replicating it for the Sherbourne. Is it based on something real, or just model designer's imagination? The part circled in red is also a bit of a mystery to me. I think that the vertical iron has a tooth that catches on the horizontal piece when the hatch is open, but I'm not sure. I haven't been able to find any close-up photos in build logs.
  6. Nightdive
    Thanks for stopping by! Those round things are just thumb tacks with the white plastic bit removed.
  7. Nightdive
    Does anyone happen to have information about the hold-open device that the Pickle's companionway has? Is it based on a real 18th century example, and how is it supposed to work? I can't figure out the part circled in red, all of the images that I could find are too blurry. Maybe there's a tooth on the rod that catches on the horizontal bar? I'm currently thinking of replicating this for my Sherbourne.
  8. Nightdive
    Companionway progress. The laser-etched area is slightly larger than the companionway, so I'll have to add a small board to cover it.
  9. Nightdive
    I keep finding small errors in my photos that I hadn't noticed in real life! This time it was the port-side wale that was a little too low. I re-attached the entire thing and it's better now. Getting the wales on properly was a struggle for me, and I'd recommend shaping them with steam until they're a perfect fit. I only bent mine in one direction before putting the paint on. That's probably deep enough. I could have just drilled down, but I opened the front as well, so that some light from the LEDs might shine into the companionway. I'll paint the interior black, if building the open companionway works out.
  10. Nightdive
    Before I glue the deck on, I'd like to explore the possibility of opening the companionway, as it could be a fun little project. Maybe the doors only, or the roof as well. There seems to be a lot of wood underneath it, but maybe that could be removed with Dremel engraving bits to make room for a ladder.
  11. Nightdive
    Thank you Chris!
  12. Nightdive
    I'm finally back to modeling. The yellow ochre turned out to be a little darker than I'd expected, but I think that it still looks great. I deviated from the manual and attached the wales early, but then I realized that they make trimming excess wood from the stern and lower counter very difficult. Luckily I had only used CA, so the ends detached easily. I painted the prow by hand after this contemporary model. The other side is red, but I might change that before I put the bulwarks and spirketting on.
  13. Nightdive
    50th anniversary of the sinking.
  14. Nightdive
    It took me an embarrassingly long time to figure it out myself. I too scoured other build logs, but since there was no mention of it, I assumed my PE sheet had a printing error that others didn’t. Should have mentioned about it in my log though. This is how I did it, not sure if 100% correct: Sternpost: PE-26, PE-24, PE-22 Rudder: PE-25, PE-23, PE-21
  15. Nightdive
    Wow, it sometimes takes a while for parcels to arrive from the UK. In the meantime I started another side project, creating some lighting with an Arduino. I'm planning to place one or two leds below deck, plus one on the deck, but as the Sherbourne doesn't have any fixed lights, I decided to create a portable lantern. I used HMS Victory's lanterns as a model, with dimensions sourced from this website: https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/a-painted-tin-and-horn-lantern-from-the-gun-decks-c-ce640afa9a It's made of 3 mm acrylic rod, electrical tape, shrink tube for the horizontal bands, plus some paint and scrap brass. 2025-10-30.mp4 edit: After making my post, I realized that the top part looked a little off. So I went back and removed an extra piece of brass from underneath the loop.
  16. Nightdive
    While waiting for the paints, I started working on the display case. It's mainly alder, which I'll stain later (test piece in the lower right corner). The baseboard is a glued beech panel, and I'll probably paint it black. I've left room for a 2 mm ventilation gap around it. I plan to add some illumination to the case, so the small drawer is for batteries. I'll replace it with a solid panel, if I abandon my lighting plans.
  17. Nightdive
    That's awesome, welcome to the hobby! With my limited experience, I actually find scale modeling and scuba diving to share some similarities. Everything is about careful planning, calm execution, and if you're breaking a sweat, you're probably doing something wrong! I started diving at 16, but then forgot about it for well over a decade. For the past 10 years I've been mainly diving shipwrecks in the Gulf of Finland with my old high school buddy. The wrecks are fantastic, but the water is always freezing cold, and visibility is often poor. I wish there was a place with the visibility of the Great Lakes, combined with the variety of intact shipwrecks dating back hundreds of years that the Baltic Sea has. Most of my favorite wrecks are actually from the Sherbourne's era. It's crazy to go down the mast of a merchantman that sank sometime in the late 1700s, and see all of the items where the crewmen left them all those years ago. Sometimes even coils of rope survive.
  18. Nightdive
    Below-waterline painting completed, time to celebrate a little. After two layers of acrylic, I opted to touch up the seams with a brush. I lost count of how many airbrushed layers of paint I applied, but before the final two ones I attached the PE parts with CA. Too much CA in fact, some of the depth markings had to be removed, bathed in acetone, and re-primed. I think that there is a nice amount of woodwork still visible. I would have preferred more consistent lines of planking, but for a first model it's close enough to the real thing: I have to take a break from modeling now, as I'm waiting for Cornwall Model Boats to restock Admiralty Paints' yellow ochre and 5x5 mm walnut strips. The strips are for a little slipway that I'll try to build for the finished ship, inspired by these models: https://nauticalhistory.weebly.com/the-70-gun-third-rate-prince-frederick-of-1714.html
  19. Nightdive
    Thanks @palmerit, I used a tiny bit of filler at the bow, but think I'll leave the plank seams alone at this point. We'll see where it goes after a couple of coats of acrylic. I also decided to prime the PE parts separately and add them later, their details might become cluttered by paint if added at this point.
  20. Nightdive
    Thank you again! Your build logs and tips have helped me reach this point in the build. The hull is now primed, but some of the gaps seem a bit large. Do you think that I should use some watered-down filler, or will layers of top coat and sanding in between be enough? I'd prefer planking to be visible in the finished model, so I'm concerned that using filler might be too much.
  21. Nightdive
    Thank you for your likes and comments, everyone! The Sherbourne is now sanded, filled, and ready to be painted - if the weather permits - later this week. My plan is to seal the wood with Tamiya fine surface primer, sand if necessary, add the photo-etch parts, prime those parts, and then apply as many coats of AK off-white as needed.
  22. Nightdive
    As I got to this point in the planking, I noticed that there was a 2 mm difference in the remaining gaps. I could finish the port side with 15 planks, but the starboard would require 16. So initially I split my spreadsheet in two and had elaborate plans about heavily thinning and tapering all eight remaining planks. But after shaping the first one, I understood how laborious it would be and decided to just finish both sides identically with three planks each, then add a small filler piece to the starboard side. And with that, the second planking was done. While everything I learned during the first planking certainly helped a lot, I think the second layer was easier in general, as there was almost no need to twist planks over a kettle in multiple spots.
  23. Nightdive
    https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/shipwreck-uunihylky-varmbadan-kirkkonummi-9e3320db5a2c45faa24f414b68799421 Before its identification, the Falken was known as the 'Stove Wreck' due to a large brickwork stove found within it. It has been a well-known dive site since its discovery in 1974. The details of her loss remain unknown, but due to her shallow location (above 9 m/30 ft), it has been speculated that she was intentionally grounded to allow some salvage of her cargo. I planned to dive it and other wrecks in the area last summer, but the weather didn't permit on the days that we had set aside.
  24. Nightdive
    The visually closest one I could find is the SS Peruvian of the Allan Line. Could very well be some other migrant ship of that era.
  25. Nightdive
    I'm now past the halfway point on the second planking and have been able to get away with fairly little clinker. I've used @Jase's spreadsheet method and re-measured after every few planks. Only some small adjustments to the spreadsheet have been needed. I've primarily used PVA again, with some CA for the bow and stern.

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