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TerryPat
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Everything posted by TerryPat
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Yup.. scrap is a good idea But impractical to buy a bunch to test. I've wasted money over the years buying something I found I didn't like. So fortunately there's likely a YouTube video demonstrating any kind of coating you can think of. Limit it to a couple and then make some test samples.. Good luck -
By biscuits, do you mean cookies? Or like biscuits and gravy? Lol. Grog is the same here. I'm in. 😃
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It's looking really nice!!
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Have a look at both of my builds. I finished each with Tru-oil wipe on. It's more of a rub in than a wipe on. Like you, i wanted light color basswood. I get a nice even wood tone finish. Tru-oil is mostly boiled linseed oil. I'm not sure it's a "poly" unless poly is a generic term. It gives a slight amber color to the wood. There are plenty of other similar products. That's just what I'm used to using and I've used for other projects. Like I mentioned.. Experiment on srap basswood.
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Thank you, David. I very much appreciate the nice comment.
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Thanks so much, Admiral. I have not seen anything from Ellie. I hope she's back to building soon. She has a great start going
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Thanks Ian! I appreciate that
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I started the deck planking by running a plank along the centerline from stern to bow. Instructions call for using two deck planks along the centerline. The picture of the model on the front of the kit box shows these planks as darker planks than the surrounding deck planks. But they didn't supply anything with the kit so I cut my own from my 1/32 inch walnut sheet. For the remaining deck planking, I cut the supplied planking strips into 4 inch pieces for the individual planks. I started the planking in the middle of the model and staggered the planks by 1 inch which results in the pattern repeating every 4th plank row. -Finished the deck planking. -Sanded smooth with 220, 320, and 400 grit papers. -Applied a few coats of Tru-Oil wipe on finish. -I wasn't thrilled with the kit supplied model stand so I built my own which was inspired by @eki0813 and @David Lester J class build stands. Both of my builds are at hull completion. Next will be deck fixtures for both. All for now.
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I'm at the same point with both my current builds. One deck is done in a linseed oil based wipe on. The other will be done in the same wipe on or shellac. If using yellow PVA wood glue, such as Titebond, the manufacturer states the varnish like coatings will prevent the glue from penatrating the wood fibers which is what give the glue it's strength. I used the Tightbond on a trim piece glued directly to a shellac surface with no problem. There is no tension with that trim piece. I also used CA super glue on a different trim piece directly to shellac without issue. Seems like the super glue works really well in that case. Most deck fixtures don't need much glue strength to hold them down. I'll probably use mostly super glue on my deck fixtures. Hope that helps. Hopefully some other builders with more experience will chime in. BTW.. You can test with wood scraps to see how well wood holds to the type of coating you want to use
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Right.. My dad was in process of planking a plank on frame kit and a water pipe above his workbench sprung a leak and ot soaked his model. It made a warped mess of it when it dried. He threw away in disgust. That is of course extreme
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Did this ease your mind a little? As in no worry regarding shrinkage? Or even expansion?
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I built wooden boat and ship models 30 plus years ago. They've gone through all kinds of temp and humidity variations. No problem. A couple I had built with hardware store super glue and they're still holding up well. Others I built with yellow wood glue are also fine. Since they are relatively small any movement to temp variations are minute is my guess
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Thanks, Rick. I appreciate that. I had originally planned to paint below the waterline. But since the walnut planking turned out better than I thought it might, I'm leaving it all natural.
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-The second planking is done. -The deck perimeter planking is done. I didn't like the laser cut stern perimeter piece so I cut a new one from a walnut 1/32 inch thick sheet. From the same sheet I cut deck perimeter planks. -Sanded the hull with 150, 220, 320, and 400 grit papers. -It all got a few coats of shellac Deck planking is next.
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That looks fantastic!: Great job! You made a LOT of progress. Glad that glue worked well for you. Safe travels and Merry Christmas!
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BTW. My planking technique for my Amati build and the Bluenose build I'm doing at the same time is glueing up a plank on the model and holding the plank in place for a minute ot two while the model is in my lap. That works for me. Alternating from bench to lap. A planking stand didn't work for me at all. I make sure I wear a crappy pair of jeans to wipe my gluey fingers on. That may or may not work for you.
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Regarding your question about the stern planking. The instructions have you do separate planking over the stern for both first and second planking in sort of a fan out type of arrangement. Why they do that and the advantage? I can only guess it's the easiest method in their view. Since the instructions suggest to paint the entire hull it doesn't really matter because you can use filler to get everything smooth. One could ask, why even bother with the second planking if you're going to fill and paint? Beats me.. lol I want to leave the second planking natural for my build so I did the stern section in a method I think looks better since the planking will be seen. I'll probably paint below the waterline and leave above natural walnut. I'm not interested in accuracy to the original. I simply love the lines of the ship. I know that was a long winded answer.. sorry. Hope it helps
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Heading down the home stretch. After all of the second planking is complete I'll sand it all smooth and coat it in my home mixed shellac to seal the wood. Then on to the deck planking.
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I use this on everything. I use super glue once in a while because it can be a lifesaver. I can't stand the smell of super glue. Makes me want to hurl! Lol This wood glue sets relatively fast. No.. I never let a plank dry overnight using this stuff. After about 2 or three minutes I'm ready to move to another plank. I rarely use clamps on a plank..I simply hold it down for a minute or two til the glue sets. Yes, it's that fast. I move on to another plank. I get a lot done in a session. Are you glueing the plank edges as well as the bulkhead points?
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It gets a little weird planking the keel. It kind of fattens up, maybe to simulate keel weights. You can see I haven't finished that are even though I'm doing second planking. Filler has been my friend there
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As far as the gaps at the bow.. You'll likely use the second planking so you can fix the gaps in the first planking with filler. Then be a little more precise with second planking which I find is a little easier than the first planking. And even 2nd planking you might use filler on if you're going to paint the entire hull. I overlapped the planks at the bow and sanded them to a point
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