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TerryPat

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Everything posted by TerryPat

  1. And you probably have a nice collection of dental tools and space age epoxies that the rest of us can't get. I hate that hight speed drill sound btw.. They need to make some kind of muffler!! Lol
  2. Started on 2nd planking. I'm planning to use a natural finish on the walnut planking so I deviated from the instructions and did a more conventional planking over the stern section. The instructions suggest a "fan-out" planking arrangement over the stern block for both base and second planking. I had to finesse things a little and I'm happy with the results.
  3. I have no problems uploading photos. Cell phone is very easy. I do all my updates and uploads with my phone. My laptop also uploads photos just fine
  4. Thanks Gregg. I have already bought some 3M vinyl masking tape recommend by Dave (CPDDET). I now remember using it on a car I restored a few years ago. Good stuff. Thanks on the Tamiya tape recommendation. I'll keep it mind
  5. I indeed have been looking for a deep burgundy. I want to match my Midwest Lobster Smack. Not accurate for Bluenose but I really like the color. Unfortunately I used Floquil on the model when I built it 35 plus years ago. Floquil is long gone. I have no idea what the color is. In pics I saw, I thought Model Expo's Copper Red acrylic looked pretty close so I bought some. Not quite as deep as I had hoped but I suppose it will do. it's supposed to be an accurate color for the Bluenose so I'll probably use it. I'll have to thin it for my airbrush. If I hadn't already bought some I'd look into the one you used. Looks great. I still may search for deeper. Thanks
  6. That's fantastic Rick! I'll be pulling up a chair for that build. Congrats!! I hope you can find the steam engine kit to go with it. No problem with the money you just saved
  7. Excellent ! Good to know you have succes with spraying those acrylics. I'll look into Michael's online. Thanks!
  8. There's only a Hooby Lobby close to me. I bought water based acrylic pre thinned for airbrush there. The brand is CreateX. This will be my first time working with water based acrylics. Since this is my winter project it's essential that i use a paint that won't gas everyone out of the house. I have high hopes. I've done winter painting outside before but only when low wind and sunshine. But that's rare. I bought a small portable spray booth that I'll use to capture the spray mist. If there was a Michael's close I would have bought those paints.
  9. -Finished the deck planking -Added what they call the buffalo and monkey rails to the top of the mainrails. -I wasn't happy with brass strips supplied for the rudder gudgeons. And there was no brass rod for the pintles. Should have done a kit inventory? Nahhh! I used staples soldered to wire brads instead. Had that stuff in my shop. -I added the so called fashion pieces the stern sides. -Added the hawse hole trim rings. -I coated everything in home mixed shellac to seal the wood prior to paint, except for the deck. That I coated with Tru-oil for the final deck finish. The Tru-oil looked a bit better than the shellac on test scrap pieces. The deck will be carefully masked off for paint. So.. I believe that completes the hull! Woohoo!!! What a ride! Off to my little paint shop. That will take a while.
  10. It's available? Great! I'd like to see you build it. It's a very simple working steam engine. You solder some of the major parts together. The intake and exaust ports open and close as the cylinder rocks side to side. Very clever. You fill the boiler with water and put a few drops of oil in the water and light the sterno chunks that you put in a cup under the boiler. As i recall, the engine was a separate kit way back.
  11. Here's my Midwest steam launch. Long been discontinued I believe. Same type of wood boiler wrap as yours. Not as detailed though. This engine runs
  12. Yes! It's the same shade as the wood on the boiler of my steam launch. Looks great You say you restore british cars? I fully restored a 73 Triumph TR6 a few years ago. It was a fun project. Model ships take up far less space though.. lol
  13. Good luck with your build! It's a beautiful ship. Your finished model will make a fine display. I'm currently building the Bluenose kit by Model Shipways. I'm enjoying watching the beautiful lines take shape.
  14. Thank you!! I appreciate that And I agree,that ship has beautiful lines.
  15. It's a very nice little kit so far. The laser cut plywood bulkheads and keel are very cleanly cut. No burns!!! No char, and no soot on my fingers. The tradeoff might be that the plywood is so hard it sands like rocks. I used a file for much the fairing which was no big deal because the fairing consisted of mostly easy beveling of the bulkheads and keel. The bulkheads slid into their slots on the keel without any filing. The first layer of planking is going well. Haven't had to use any shims on the bulkheads so far. I threw out the plywood stern blocks and made my own from basswood scraps. Much easier to sand and shape. I also brought the block up level with the top of the first planking instead of to the bottom of the first planking. That way I eliminate their methed of covering the block with an alternate sort of fanned out short and bent planking. That's all for now
  16. Looking great! The detail of the metal engine looks like it could run. The box doesn't indicate that so I assume it's a nicely detailed non runner? I built a Midwest Models steam launch with an engine that runs. Cool little kit. *Following
  17. I'm looking forward to watching your build. I built the Midwest version of the kit years ago. It still looks beautiful! I was able to protect it from my wife's feather duster, unlike some other of my models .. lol
  18. Bluenose. 1921 preparing for a race. Thanks to Nova Scocia Archives for giving me permission to post. Nice people there. This is how I intended to display my Bluenose model, dry docked with the two sails furled. Should look very cool! Beautiful ship! Also, as in this old Bluenose photo, I plan to let my planking detail show under the paint. Once I get a coat of primer on I'll be able to see the effect. If it's too much, I may have to do some selective spot filling. I put a couple of coats of shellac on the planking to seal the wood prior to painting, and to see how the deck may look finished in shelac. Should look nice as long as I keep glue residue off the deck planks.
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