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About cdrusn89

  • Birthday 10/21/1947

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Rockledge, FL
  • Interests
    Current Build: US Brig Niagara; https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/profile/462-cdrusn89/

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  1. I got tired of having to look around for the correct size/color of line (these are Syren tan and light brown) as I previously had a working "spool" (aka a short piece of toilet/wrapping paper tube) of each somewhere on my workbench. These tubes are of heavier gauge cardboard from where I can't remember - just glad I saved it. Now at least they are all in the same place. For the base I used a scrap of Hariplank trim that was left over from something. It is much heavier than conventional wood of this size (and in this case free to the shipbuilder) so it doesn't move when you pull on one of the "spools" of line. I added the last four eyebolts for the Topsail Halyard and the next step is to assemble the masts. But that will have to wait until next Friday as we leave for a four night cruise tomorrow and there is "stuff" that needs to be done before we can leave.
  2. Continuing to work off the to do list before starting assembly of the masts. Added eyebolts for the course yard lifts and Spring Stay and Top Mast Stay bullseyes. Installed the tackle for the Flying Jib and Top Gallant Stays to the eyebolts in the bow that I put in yesterday. These tackle call for fiddle blocks on the stay end. Not knowing of a source for fiddle blocks this small (the blocks on the other end are 3/32) I improvised by sanding one end of both a 3/32 S and an 1/8 S flat and glued the together. Making the flat square with the blocks on something at small was somewhat of a challenge (I think I went through 10 blocks before I got three satisfactory sets - you can sand too much). You can't see the fiddle blocks very well in teh picture, they are being held by the clamps. I installed the bullseyes I made over the past few days to the respective eyebolts on the bow and behind the Fore Mast. I am working on building the tackles for the Course Lifts and the Royal, Top Gallant and Top Sail halyards. Once that is done I think I have everything ready to start assembling the masts and yards.
  3. Finished rigging the bobstays to the hull. Used served .025 line instead of the .031 called for in the instructions. Not sure these lines were served but since they would see lots of wave action and they were vital to the structural integrity of the bowsprit I decided to use the served .025 as an approximation of the .031 shown in the plans. Utilized Syren 5.5mm closed hearts instead of the kit supplied items. Also installed the four eyebolts (on each side) that terminate the Inner Jib stay, Fore Mast Stay, Jib Boom Martingale back ropes and the Flying Jib Boom Martingale backropes.
  4. Tom/Christos, I am making some changes to my version - so far mostly adding additional "items" to the various lines so I can get an accurate count of how many of the various blocks I need to build. I some cases I only show, for instance one S 1/8 when there should be two (one port and one starboard for instance). I will post an updated version when I get closer (which should be soon) to starting to assemble the masts/yards. I would also add that the line/block/deadeye/bullseye sizes are what I intend to use, not necessarily what are called for in the plans. I typically only use Syren line so am limited to the .008. .012, .018, .025, .035, .045 sizes that are available there. Just trying for "full disclosure". My lawyer made me do it.
  5. Since there are twelve sets of bullseye required I decided to make a jig to build them (hopefully) consistently. I used 2.5mm walnut bullseyes from Model Shipways. The plans call for mostly 3/32 but some 1/16 bullseyes - My old hands can't deal with 1/16 bullseyes so I used all 2.5mm (which is pretty close to 3/32) I started with an old jig I built but now can't remember what I used it for - anyway I cut slots in both the end pieces and used .025 line and alligator clips to capture the bullseyes. The line leads through the slots where more clips maintain the spacing set by the wire spacer (.025 piano wire) that connects the bullseyes. I used .008" Syren brown (not light brown) line and made three passes through the bullseyes with the spacer in place. Using the thin wire makes getting the line through with the spacer in place not an issue (mostly). The spacer is removed and any slack taken out of the lines and one more pass made (total four) and remove the alligator clips to allow the bullseye to orient themselves in a common plane (the alligator clips can force them into different planes. I also move the end not being used through one of the slots so it will be captured in the next step. I make a half hitch around the lanyards with the hitch more or less centered between the bullseyes. Make three or four loops around the lanyards trying to make them lie next to each other. Grab the loops with a alligator clip then tie another half hitch. Coat with 50/50 white glue and water. Trim ends of line when glue is dry. Mount to eyebolts and when needed capture the outboard bullseye with the appropriate line/stay.
  6. I am continuing to work off the items on the "to do" list. After working on the rigging spreadsheet I can now easily check off the blocks and rigging needed and decide what can/should be done now and what must wait until the masts/bowsprit are mounted. Among the items completed recently are the spanker vang blocks (and associated tackle line wrapped around the tube) and the halliard blocks for the Inner Jib , Outer Jib and Main Topmast Staysail (with assist from Popeye). The new blocks are the one (or two) closest to the mast.
  7. Tom, As I suspected I just found one addition to the spreadsheet (Spanker sheet). Updated version below. Niagara Rigging - for distribution ch 1.xlsx
  8. Tom, Here is the spreadsheet. I purposely did not include the square sail sheet lines, spanker brails or flag halliards - I am not planning on rigging them at this point. By my count there are over 100 running rigging lines without them. Standing rigging lines are in bold, running rigging not. Hope this helps when you get to that point. Niagara Rigging - for distribution.xlsx
  9. Tom, I found a few more lines I need to add. It will be a few m ore days before I am satisfied - and I am sure to have missed something(s).
  10. Tom, I have made a spreadsheet of all the standing and the running rigging that I am going to include (which is most of it even if the clews, bunt and leech lines are tired off at the blocks). If you are interested I will be glad to send you a copy. I am almost ready to start the mast assembly process, just need a few more lines served and some more blocks stroped.
  11. Here is the completed (I think) stern area. I added the tiller tackle (and boom guy blocks - although those are hard to see in these photos). The stern bitts The tiller running rigging The spanker sheet fairlead I took several more pictures but am having depth of field issues with my 100mm macro lens. I guess I need to get the manual out now that I have exhausted my very limited knowledge of the multitudinous setting on the camera and lens.
  12. Continuing to work off the to do list items at the stern. Got the stbd side capstan bars installed but need to get the line on that side rigged. Also installed the horse and ring for the spanker sheet, the tiller with the blocks for the tiller tackle installed. Am working on fabing the aft bitts and will install them before rigging the tiller tackle.
  13. I started working on the capstan bars. Not having a lathe, and not will to try to freehand turning 1/16 X 1/16" stock into 3/64 diameter I decided to use the poor mans lathe (aka drill press). I cut stock well over size, marked a spot sufficiently down the piece to allow for the possible manging of the piece by the drill chuck and used a 100 grit sanding stick (actually made from a tongue depressor) to take the square section down to a circle (more or less). I finished with a 220 sanding "stick then cut to length and rounded the end. It took several tries to get an acceptable bulkhead bracket but I finally succeeded. Here is a before and after in the drill press and the first side as installed. Looking at this area again and noting that two blocks (boom guy and tiller tackle need to attach approximately where the gun train tackle is and that the eyebolt that is there is too far aft to support these items I added and additional eyebolt just aft of the gun train one. Hopefully this will make getting the blocks for the tiller and boom guy easier to install. Not sure how I would have gotten three blocks one eyebolt without it looking very strange.
  14. Here are some better pictures of the Spanker Boom and the Bowsprit Bitts as they will be installed. I also completed the Spanker gaff, including the parrel beads but will have to "undo" them to get the gaff installed on the Spencer mast so I left plenty of wire so the beads don't fall off during install. The dreaded "To DO" list
  15. Continuing to work down the to do list. Fabricated the Main Preventer Stay connection to the bowsprit bitts. I used the Syren closed heart instead of the kit provided heart. The eyebolt goes through the stbd side bitt. I am going to put a bolt head (similar to what I used on the top of the capstan) on the other side of the bitt. There is enough strain on this eyebolt to justify bolting it completely through the bitt IMHO. I also completed the hardware on the Spanker boom. The two toilet paper tubes hold the running line for the boom sheet and the boom guys. The tan line on the left is the spanker outhaul which will be knotted off when the boom is installed. The black line with the Britannia bullseye (aka thimble) is one of the two spanker boom topping lift "trusses" (the other can be seen on top of the upper paper tube. Although not visible the foot ropes and the rest of the outhaul tackle are also installed. I will work on getting a better picture of the boom when I have to gaff done as well (hopefully tomorrow - but there is that "other" to do list...).

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