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About cdrusn89

  • Birthday 10/21/1947

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Rockledge, FL
  • Interests
    Current Build: US Brig Niagara; https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/profile/462-cdrusn89/
    Previous Builds: Bluenose II (Model Shipways 1/64)
    Benjamin W. Latham (Model Shipways (1/48)
    Pride of Baltimore II (Model Shipways 1/64)
    Smuggler (Bluejackets 1/48)

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  1. Back from cruise the highlight (at least for me was visiting the former Royal Navy Dockyard on Antigua. Many of the original buildings are still standing although most have been converted to support the tourists which are "thick as thieves" since there were four cruise ships in on the day we were there. Imagine 8000+ "tourists" descending on your local marina. Anyway I have all three lower sails completed, attached to the masts/gaff/boom and the peak and throat halyards (without the tackles) rigged. I used .018 Syren line for the mizzen mast halyards and .012 on the main and fore masts. The tackles will all use .008 line. I thought the heavier line on the mizzen was required since the gaff and sail are considerably larger than on the main/fore. Here is what things look like at this point. Need to trim up the gaskets and a few Irish pennants but I think these will serve. I am going to have to redo many of the chainplates. I measured and drilled the plates for the attachment pins based on the drawings but some of the holes are going to hit the scuppers. Obviously I should have figured out where the holes NEEDED to be, not where the drawing showed them. I am considering redoing all of them and using a single thickness of annealed steel wire instead of the double pass of the thinner brass wire. I was getting pretty good at fabing them so what course I take will probably depend on if I have enough brass stock.
  2. I got the mizzen sail lashed to the boom and gaff and the sail furled. It didn't look too bad so I decided to do a temporary install on the mast and the mast on the hull. To keep thing together I also rigged the peak and throat halyards. The clamp on the mast is to keep the sail assembly down on the boom rest. With the peak halyard rigged it wants to move up the mast. The weight on the end of the boom simulates the sheet tackle which (hopefully) will oppose the peak halyard and keep those lines taught. I set the wheel box and aft deck house on as well to check the lead for the sheet tackle. Not perfect but pretty close. I should mark the location of the boom traveler now so I can get it installed without the wheel box in place. I have to tighten up the gaskets and trim some loose ends but I think this looked pretty good and intend to do the main and foremasts in a similar fashion before they are installed. I will install the topmast and those shrouds after I get the lower part done. In fact I may wait until the masts are installed a nd the lower shrouds rigged before adding the top masts.
  3. Still "fiddling around". Installed rudder (it was already primed)n and used the Syren provided wire to simulate the bolts holding the pintles and gudgeons onto the hull and rudder. These will all be painted to match the hull (gray and anti-fouling red). I also added the "fashion pieces" at the transom. The drawings show what appears to be a trim piece running the entire length of the hull at the same level as the deck but I see no mention of it in the instructions. Installation would have to wait until the chain plates are installed as the trim would have to be cut or notched to go around these.
  4. While waiting for the channels to dry I added the grommets (actually dark brown paint to simulate grommets) to the sails. I also added the bails/parrels to all the booms/gaffs. I thinned down the mast hoops again and settled on nine per mast. I measured the re-thinned and previous versions of the mast hoops. A stack of nine now measures 5/16" down from 7/16 for a stack of nine before the re-thinning. Only time will tell as I have to add the hoops and attach the sails to the yards before we see what the new version looks like.
  5. Decided to work the rudder which has already been primed. Added the wooden blocks for the pintles & gudgeons previously. Now adding the laser board strips that simulate the mountings to the rudder (and later to the hull). The thin laser board is more in scale than the Britannia metal provided in the kit and no need to make grooves in the rudder. Also mounted the Fore channels. Black wire used for location and additional strength. Would not be good to have a channel come loose during rigging.
  6. Continuing with the chain plates I tried one with the annealed steel wire (.023" - 24 gauge) and it works. Not enough better for me to redo the 26 I already have done in brass. I also did one in 24 gauge brass wire just to see if it is any different. Not much as far as I can tell. I drilled holes for the mountings (not sure what I will use, probably steel annealed wire) and messed up a couple with the hole far off center so I remade them with the thicker brass wire. Here are the 26 deadeyes and chain plates waiting for the channels to be finished. There are four distinct "flavors" - Fore lower, Fore backstays, Main/Mizzen lower and ,Main/Mizzen backstays.
  7. Given my lack of enthusiasm for Britannia metal fitting I decided to make my own chain plates. I looked through my brass "bucket" and found 4 each of 1/64" X 1/16" X 12" brass "bars". That and some 7/32" wooden deadeyes from Model Expo and the brass wire that came with the kit were the starting point. I cut the bar to 45mm lengths (size taken from drawings) and put a 2mm "hook" in one end. I built a jig to hold the deadeye and chain plate in close proximity. Three pins to hold the deadeye and two pieces of basswood to hold the chain plate. I made the pins for the deadeye three different lengths so I could get the deadeye on one pin at a time, twisting the deadeye to get the holes to align with the pins. Start the wire under the hook, wrap it around the deadeye, once, twice ending with two loops around the deadeye. I used a pair of pliers to hold each end and put as much pressure on the wire as I felt safe. I used the nose of one of the pliers to push the "hook" closed. Pull the assembly off the jig, trim the wire and use thick CA to sieze the wire and deadeye with the holes in the correct orientation (single hole down). Making all 20 required took about 20 minutes once I had the jig and process "perfected". Not perfect but serviceable. I will say the Model Expo deadeyes do not have the best hole arrangement. As you can see above the holes are not exactly centered on the wood. But, with the lanyards running across the face it would be hard to notice. I think if I had it to do over again I would use annealed steel wire instead of brass. Not because it is "better" just a different color. I am not sure what I will do about the brass color around the deadeyes (the chain plates will be painted to match the hull). Next step is to get the holes drilled in the chain plates and cut them to the final length.
  8. I have gotten to that point in the instructions where is recommends drilling the holes for the masts. I decided not to worry too much about the mast rake. at 1-3 degrees I am not sure i could tell. Hopefully I can adjust the rack with the rigging. I wanted to use a Forester bit to drill through the cherry decking material. I have had regular drill bits tear up planked areas. Since the smallest bit is 1/4" I used that to drill a few test holes in other material and the masts fit with no additional work and minimal "slop". I left the hull in the building jig and used a laser level on the keel to get the hull horizontal and a level across the hull in several places to get it vertical then drilled the holes in the pre-marked positions. I drilled the holes 1" deep and will cut the masts (they are 10" long overall now) to get the correct height above the deck.
  9. While the sails are drying I worked on the taffrails and cat heads. I glued the pillars to the top and bottom rails alternating (and paying attention to the pillars which are not symmetric vertically) between rails. Then it is relatively easy to assemble the top and bottom and get the pillars in the right spot. Have to pay particular attention tom getting the pillars glued on perpendicular to the rail. Here is the stbd rail before assembly and the port after priming and sanding. Here are both rails after priming. I kept the top rails long to allow some "slop" where they join the aft rail. I have to aft rail done and pinned it to the stern to get the bottom rails notched to meet the aft but for the top decided to leave that until the aft taffrail is actually glued in place. That would be a bad time to find out I mis-measured. After a couple of tries I got the cat heads in pretty good shape - now for the knees.
  10. I took the decision to redo all the sails, with a reduced area and fewer hoops. Here are the three sails after lining for the seams and adding the reinforcing strips on one side.
  11. After two false starts on the Bowsprit cap which ended when the material (basswood in one case, yellow cedar in the other) split or otherwise decided not to cooperate in a catastrophic manner I shifted to plywood. In this case I made my own from some 1/32" plywood sheet I had. Three pieces of 1/32 glued together (after I made a rough cut out of the bowsprit opening in each) and then enlarged the opening to fit the end of the bowsprit (octagonal). I then used a series of round files to add the opening at the top for the jib boom. Still needs some final sanding to get it more symmetric but I think this will do. Also needs paint (dark gray in my case as that is the hull color) and the hole for the dolphin striker.
  12. Mr. BlueJacket, Thanks for the picture - that really helps. 3/32" basswood (maybe I will use boxwood if I have a piece handy) it is.
  13. So here is the fore sail furled and on the fore mast. I used 12 hoops (in spite of the instructions advising to use a smaller number) and now think that was a mistake. I thinned the plastic hoops to 1/32" (3" at scale) so that pile would be more or less three feet tall. I am thinking about redoing the sail (no real hope of reducing the number of hoops without damage to sail) and going with eight or nine hoops. Also need to put the bails on the boom and gaff to keep them in place while attaching them to the sail. They want to wander down the sail - at least they way I was doing it. Should be easier to add the bails without the sails in the way.
  14. Mr. BlueJacket - yea I figured that. I do have a question though - I did not find either in the parts list or elsewhere a bowsprit cap. From that I assume I am supposed to make one but since the bowsprit cap is shown only in plan and elevation on sheets 1 and 2 and a little better in sketch 19 what do you suggest it be made of or from? I have brass and Britannia metal strips in a number of widths and thickness and could figure something out but thought I would ask. Same goes for the bowsprit band?

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