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Maid of the Mist

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  1. You're using actual gold leaf? Do you have a meeting with the Admiralty coming up? 😉 I am even more impressed than I was before.
  2. Looks lovely and smooth. Looking forward to seeing the varnished version.
  3. I worked on the rubbing strakes today and decided to pick up some higher-quality masking tape in preparation for the upcoming painting. By happy coincidence, the tape is 6mm wide. Perfect for spacing the strakes: 6mm between the top and middle, and 12mm between the middle and bottom. Sadly I've run out of CA glue so the shipyard is now closed for the day with one and half sides done! One more thing I should mention is that the sloping triangular pieces were cut entirely with a sharp knife before being glued in place. The OcCre instructions, however, recommend gluing the pieces first and then shaping them with a file: I have to say, that’s really poor advice and they recommend something similar on Polaris. I know from experience that small pieces of wood like that can’t withstand something as abrasive as a file. They’ll just get ripped off the side of your ship.
  4. Thanks for your encouragement and support 🙂 The second layer of planking is now complete, and I'm quite pleased with how it has turned out after the challenges I ran into wit the first layer. I've done a bit of light sanding which is why it looks a bit dusty and since the hull wasn't shaped as well as I'd hoped the finish could be better. That said, I like the result and it's definitely a step up from my first build (Polaris). I trimmed one of the stern planks too zealously, so I've had to replace it, hence the masking tape. No bother, I'll trim it and sand it tomorrow. The top two inches of the hull will be painted soon and I'm very excited for that stage because it will totally transform the look of the ship. Before I get there I have to add the rubbing strakes. I'm trying the steam method this time around. Unlike the plank bending tool, this method requires no soaking the wood. Using pliars also makes getting the precise curve a bit easier and since there's little moisture involved the pieces dry and are ready to use in no time.
  5. Hi David, just admiring your work and I'm fascinated by the copper plating. How do you go about copper plating a model like that? Do you use special glue? And since real copper tends to tarnish, does it change colour over time even if it's not handled much? Is it real copper, for that matter? It looks very hard to work with.
  6. I really like the customised colours and the research you put into figuring out what the Duchess would have wanted her yacht to look like. It's a beautiful ship and a tempting option after I've finished my Beagle.
  7. Loving the blue. Just perfect for the baroque era of shipbuilding. Can't wait to see the gold detailing. If I can ever justify buying a big Vanguard model, I think it will have to be Sphinx!
  8. One side of the hull is now finished with the second layer of planking. I chose to work on a single side first so I could focus on getting it to look as good as possible, without being distracted by both sides at once. My thought was that if I managed to get one side right, it would serve as a guide when planking the other. I limited myself to four planks a day to make sure each was positioned carefully. I didn’t do any tapering, but instead followed OcCre’s instructions fairly closely. Overall, I’m pleased with the result. There are a few minor uneven spots and some glue marks, but I expect these will be hidden once the paint and/or matte varnish is applied. The second layer of planking goes on the stern after both sides are finished. I've test fitted the keel and stem to make sure it fits in this slot. Now for the other side 🙂
  9. Are your dock workers doing caulking, Greg? My workers have had mixed experiences with using pencil caulking, including one who foolishly used a 6B pencil and smudged the deck.
  10. That's funny 😁 I would have thought a professional kit maker like OcCre would redraw everything in CAD and test-build prototypes. Even a minor error would get ironed out in that process, never mind a massive bulge in the hull.
  11. Looking good. Nice and sleek. Why did the original bulkheads have a bulge midships?
  12. I’ve spent about 4–5 hours over the past couple of days sanding, filling, checking… then more sanding, more filling and finally a last round of sanding and checking. Ended up using quite a lot of filler, not just at the bow but across the whole hull to try and smooth everything out. I think it’s paid off – the overall shape looks pretty good now. I’ve checked that the keel and stem fit properly, which they do, and the curves at the bow and stern look gentle enough for the sapelli planks to sit flush against both the stern post and the stem. I’ll leave it for a bit before moving on, just in case anything else comes to mind. I was also worried that with so much filler on the hull, white glue might not hold as well. So I did a little test: sanded some filler smooth on a scrap piece and glued a spare sapelli strip to it. After an hour or two it was stuck firm, so that’s a relief! I’ll hold off on posting any photos until I’ve got the second layer of planking on. I’d rather share some pretty pictures instead of all the filler.
  13. Thanks Greg, this is quite depressing.... But you've given me hope. As I've found with model shipbuilding so far, when I make mistakes it's because I couldn't see how I could have avoided them. Those planks had to be close to the bulkheads to be glued, but that meant I ended up with steps and gaps... I need a teacher, really! I've got a long weekend this week so I'll spend some hours tomorrow evening and then Saturday/Sunday seeing if I can solve it with sanding and filler first.
  14. Thank you. When you say detach the planks, presumably you just mean back two or three bulkheads? Not entire strakes? I ask because the rest of the hull is quite good. Relatively smooth and nothing like the horrible gaps and steps I have at the bow.
  15. I’ve run into a bit of trouble with my Beagle build, the planking at the bow has ended up with some gaps and a bit of a stepping pattern. I’m new to tapering and this was my first attempt. You can see that to close up the hill I decided to change the way I was planking. Maybe I rushed this stage….but I didn’t really know what I was doing to be quite honest. I read a bit and watched some videos. Anyway….My plan is to tidy it up with sanding and filler. I’ve got two options on the bench: Occre’s own wood putty and a general DIY brand available here in the UK (Ronseal wood filler). I’ve watched a few videos on how to apply filler to planking, and I know it’s a common way for builders to cover all manner of sins but before I start slapping it on I thought I’d check in here first. Any tips on application or pitfalls to avoid would be much appreciated. My plan is to sand with 60 grit to get rid of the worst bumps in the planking , then fill, then sand with 100 grit. Rinse and repeat until I get a smooth hull that will take the thin veneer planking to go on top.
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