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LJC
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LJC reacted to a post in a topic:
Chesapeake Bay Box Stern Workboat by LJC - Wye River Models
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LJC reacted to a post in a topic:
Chesapeake Bay Box Stern Workboat by LJC - Wye River Models
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LJC reacted to a post in a topic:
Chesapeake Bay Box Stern Workboat by LJC - Wye River Models
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LJC reacted to a post in a topic:
Chesapeake Bay Box Stern Workboat by LJC - Wye River Models
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LJC reacted to a post in a topic:
Chesapeake Bay Box Stern Workboat by LJC - Wye River Models
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Chesapeake Bay Box Stern Workboat by LJC - Wye River Models
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Chesapeake Bay Box Stern Workboat by LJC - Wye River Models
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Chesapeake Bay Box Stern Workboat by LJC - Wye River Models
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Chesapeake Bay Box Stern Workboat by LJC - Wye River Models
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Individually fit bottom planks. Fitting planks for the bow will require soaking and shaping. I did that with 2 planks and it seemed to work. I’m pleased with how the bottom looks, hope it won’t be too hard to trim all the overhang. I don’t think it will need much filler. I’ll work on the bow next. Build time ~2.5 hrs
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LJC reacted to a post in a topic:
Chesapeake Bay Box Stern Workboat by LJC - Wye River Models
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Chesapeake Bay Box Stern Workboat by LJC - Wye River Models
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Chesapeake Bay Box Stern Workboat by LJC - Wye River Models
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Chesapeake Bay Box Stern Workboat by LJC - Wye River Models
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Chesapeake Bay Box Stern Workboat by LJC - Wye River Models
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Chesapeake Bay Box Stern Workboat by LJC - Wye River Models
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Sanded the hull in preparation for model filler. Filled gaps in planking and sanded. Build time ~1 hr
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I finished installing hull planks using 1/8 inch strips cut down to fill the gaps. I’m not sure how much time to spend trying to cut strips to fill or should I just use model filler. Build time ~1 hour.
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I finished installing hull planks using 1/8 inch strips cut down to fill the gaps. I’m not sure how much time to spend trying to cut strips to fill or should I just use model filler. Build time ~1 hour.
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Continued installation of hull planks. Seams to be going ok. To finish planks will need to fill 1/2” at bow to <1\16” at stern which will take time to fit up. Some gaps will need to be filled. Build time ~2 hours
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Cut floor frames for the other 4 members which had to be individually fit to the chine on the port and starboard side. Positioned and glued remaining frames to the keelson and chines. Several of the floor frames were high so were plained down so the floor will lie flat. Next, the 2 pieces of the deck were joined with a cross brace at the bulkhead and at the transom. Positioned and glued the deck to the bow stem, bulkhead and transom. Shaped the keel to fit flush to the keelson and glued. Cut and glued individual deck supports at each floor frame. The angle and position of these braces relative to the edge of the deck needs to be consistent so that when all planks are attached, their position relative to the deck is consistent. Installed one 1/2” hull plank to each side. In review of material provided, determined that 1/8” wide strips were provided instead of 3/8” wide. I will need additional 24” strips of 1/2” or 3/8” wide to complete the hull planks. Time for this build ~4 hours.
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I built a table which allowed me to clamp the keelson for this part of the build. Installed the bow stem, bulkhead and the transom to the keelson. The plans called for floor frames number 1 and 4 to be installed first so that they align to the chine. I glued the chine to the bow stem, # 1 and 4 frames and the transom. Time for this build ~3 hours.
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Using the drawings provided I cut out patterns for the build and crafted the cabin parts, deck, flooring, cowling, bulkhead, and hull frames. I installed plexiglass for the cabin windows. This took me about 4 hours.
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I saw this model and wanted to put it on my build list since these boats frequented Hampton Roads where I grew up. I also spent time on one of these boats that the Virginia Institute Marine Science chartered while we studied the changes that hurricane supplied freshwater had on the local rivers and Bay. Having some unexpected time off from my part-time job, I decided to start this model for my second build. I was a little concerned because I only saw one build log for the box stern and the log only documented part of the build. The kit arrived with an instruction manual (just pictures with no detail building instructions) and drawings along with a material list and supplies. I spent time reviewing the material list and handwritten changes to the list that didn’t jive with the material supplied. The material question was 1/16 x 3/8 strips of Balsawood, which is readily available so I don’t expect to have a problem. Review time ~1.5 hours
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I’ve now finished the lobster smack and I’m pleased with my first build. Overall, my build time on this model was about 45 hours. I’m looking to order my next model and hopefully will do a better job of posting my build log as I go. Thanks to the many members who posted hints that help my build. Here are a couple of pictures of the final product.
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- muscongus bay lobster smack
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I tried several schemes to create coils for the jib line with little success. A search on model ship world got me to a jig that a member named Redshadowrider posted in message 326 on November 29, 2024. This worked well. Thanks.
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- muscongus bay lobster smack
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I cut out the sails and used Fray Check on the edges. Fray Check is a product that one uses on needle point projects to keep the edge of the material from fraying. This worked very well on the sail material. I used a spray spar varnish on the sail material which seemed to work well. From here it was rigging the main sail to the boom and installing the mass hoops. Next was rigged the main sail to the mast and setting the mask. I completed rigging the jib along with final touchups to the model.
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- muscongus bay lobster smack
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While cutting the mast slots and the bow block earlier in the building, I cut the slots too wide and all the way through the bow block. My repairs limited the mast insertion, resulting in a loose fit. I decided to craft a ring that would provide better support of the mask by gluing the ring to the deck. I decided to try to make wooden mast hoops instead of using the metal wire provided. I used a 1/2” dowel and board a 1/4 inch hole using a forester bit to create the hoops. The small pieces were hard to hold so I inserted a quarter inch dowel into the hole and then cut the hoops. The dowel provided for more support and stability during the cut.
- 18 replies
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- muscongus bay lobster smack
- Model Shipways
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So I’ve decided on paint scheme for the smack and have restarted the build. Have established the waterline sanded the gaff, bowsprit, and boom, and installed blocks. I’ve crafted the tiller and installed the tow rail and moldings on the deck. I spent time shaping the 1/32” molding which was not necessary as there was no problem bending these to shape. I’ve completed assembly of the cleats, seats, hatch door, centerboard rod, and oarlocks.
- 18 replies
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- muscongus bay lobster smack
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