gieb8688

Наконец, законченная работа на модели корабля. К сожалению (есть причина), я был не в состоянии показать процесс строительства. От меня это мало влияет. Тем не менее, подлежат рассмотрению в силе, я постараюсь, чтобы сделать хорошее фото студию и добавить к этой теме.

Moving forward as time allows.
 
Buttoned up the lower hold inner planking:
 

 
Big item for me is a self imposed milestone, with the addition of the keel, false keel (purpleheart of course) and garboard strake I have now surpassed the initial build in completeness.  
 

 
It wasn't a quick redo by any stretch but one I have no regrets for.
 
I now need to add the 3/32" planks next to the wales and think about painting them black while it is still easy.  I also want to get some deck beams in and maybe start getting a main mast prototyped out.  Oh, a stand.  Alright, a long list of things.
 
Always a next step....
Mark

As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words...
 

 
Finished the 'stuff next to the thickstuff' and added the proposed filler pieces on one half of the ship (between the limber strake and keelson).  These pieces are not glued.  The one piece missing is where the pump is located.
 
Next up is the regular planks in the tween spaces and ponder the filling pieces in the meanwhile.
 
Mark
 

Thanks for all the likes and words of confidence.  This is just something I have to learn to live with, probably won't be my last!
 
Focused on getting the thickstuff in the hold.  With all the work to define where the futtock joins are (and thus the thickstuff placement) I am a lot happier with the result than the first go round.
 


 
Next up is to use add the adjoining layer (3/32" basswood) next to the thick stuff (1/8" basswood).  Regular planks will be with 1/16" basswood.  I should have the lower hold buttoned up within two weeks.  The exterior hull will also be totally planked.
 
Sure feels good when you cut something for one side of the build and it also fits perfectly on the opposite side.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Hey, look at me, I can glue a deck clamp!
 

 
A long story (with a pretty happy ending so far...):  I turned 50 in April and always knew this was going to be a breakout year.  Not to linger on the point but after a series of events I was diagnosed with a rare disease (Mommy always said I was special).  A few specialists and then a 3 week hospital stay I was back dealing with all the yard and house work that backed up.
 
But tonight, tonight I returned to the yard and cut and glued a deck clamp.
 

 
Well, that went so well I completed the keelson:
 

 
Not too much, I know, but a sign of things returning to normal.  Now I have to look at a sprint Triathlon in less than 60 days and a lot of training I am behind on so who knows when the next update will be posted, but make no doubt there will be more.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Thanks Eamonn and all the likes,
 
Still slogging ahead as time allows.  I have attached all three strakes of the wales both port and starboard.
 

 
I am still using the extra deep slotted keel jig for holding everything together.  I have also opted to skip the frame spacers.  Using another deep slotted keel jig I insured correct spacing and glued the wales (freezing the frame spacing) then removed the slotted jig.  Fairing has occurred only over the wales area - which was pretty easy.  Now that the frame has been stiffened I can easily fair the rest (externally).
 

 
Next up will be removing the frame spreaders and then work on the internal fairing.
 

 
As is evident in the pics this will not take too much time.  Very soon start affixing the thick stuff in the hold.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

To use a phrase from Monty Python:  'Not dead yet.'  Slow but sure the new frames have been generated.  Everything triple checked and locked in.  This morning I glued the framework to the base jig (excepting first and last frames) and everything is in its proper place:
 

 
I need to add the walnut chocks to the 18th and 27th frames prior to gluing those in and then fair the hull.  The hull is already so close to being smooth, which is how it should be.  Shouldn't take too much effort.
 
I did add removable spacer blocks (in the pics) at the mid-points either side and will probably not add spacer blocks.  Once the mid-section is good to go I will add the wales for strength.
 
One other difference from previous attempts was to get all the frames in place insuring everything measured out correctly before gluing anything.  I only added glue once in place and pushed it around where the frame and the bottom jig intersected.  No chance of it grabbing prior to being in its final place.
 
Mark

Final push to get the lower hold planks in place - the 1/16" basswood ones.  I couldn't leave it so close to getting buttoned up so I spent most of the day going back and forth.  The old:  cut, glue and clamp two planks (one each side), wait to dry, remove and do the next two.  Pretty straight forward stuff.  I opted to only use planks that traversed the whole cross section.  There will be so much stuff down here (eventually) I didn't think anyone would be able to notice any different later.
 
So yet another couple of shots showing the hold:
 

 
No smooth surface going up the walls here.  I realize it would be pretty easy to climb up the walls without any further assist.  Still some tidying up to do here and there.
 

 
Making that mast footing is going to take some time, but that is for another day.  Probably need to make some berth deck beams, if not orlop ones to start figuring out bulkheads and the well.  The cross section definitely feels pretty solid now!
 
Mark
 
 

Thanks for all the likes and looks.
 
While the wind howls outside and the temp reads below zero I set my sights on getting the middle stuff (my term) set in the lower hold.  This is 3/32" basswood strips primarily on either side of the thickstuff (1/8" basswood).  Finally I can call it good.
 

 
Next up is the regular planking (1/16" basswood).  It shouldn't take too long.
 
When I started this process of the internal planking I thought the big question was going to be whether to plank up from the keelson or down from the berth deck clamp.  The reality was a bunch of jumping around to set the thickstuff and now I am left with the filler.  A lot more respect for trying to accurately plank the internal hull of a complete hull, regardless of scale!
 
Mark

Another update in the evolution of the Druid-X, this time focusing on the garboard and limber strakes.  
 
For the limber strakes I am still using the thickstuff stock (1/8").  These require a slot to allow the limber boards to fit in between this and the keelson.  Using the Byrnes saw I quickly had my raw stock.
 

 
Using a spacer piece of wood to insure consistent separation from the keelson I glued in both limber strakes.
 

 
Everything ended up looking fit and proper.  A good result.
 
As a companion it was time to put on the first regular planks on the hull (1/16").  The natural choice was the garboard strake - and in fact I did one better, the garboard strake plus one each side.  These were again cut rectangular with no specific shaping.  The rest of the planking will be custom fit and cut.
 

 
The ends of the planks aren't perfectly flush with the aft and fore frames.  I am resisting the urge to sand them into all the outside and inside planks are attached to avoid screwing up the face of the frames - as much.
 
Next up is the middle stuff (my term - hah hah).  Some 3/32" stuff that abuts a lot of the thickstuff prior to the regular planking.  I also want to get the berth deck clamp in.  It wont be too long before the lower hold is sealed in.
 
Mark

The task for the day was a Keel Rabbet.  The difference for me is that this rabbet is more than for looks.  I actually need a garboard strake to fit into the rabbet and given the cross section you get to view the results on two ends.
 
So....off I went.  I did drill through the keel, the frames and partway through the keelson at each frame.  Four of these holes where then drilled through the false keel.  Adding trunnels through the whole assembly made it very stiff.
 

 

 

 
I am pretty happy with the results.  Now I get to start working on stuff that will for the most part be seen!
 
mark

It has been some banner time in the workshop the last couple of days.  I was boresighted on getting past the frames so this afternoon I was back at it, this time for the internal fairing.  To borrow a phrase "Say hello to my little friends"
 

 
Cabinet scrapers are very effective in removing wood on the internal hull.  Supplement that with some final sanding and you can do a lot without a lot of sawdust flying about.  More evidence of my activity is the current state of my rough worktable:
 

 
Definitely needs some cleanup tomorrow, but a tidy workshop does not show progress!  At the end of the day I can stand back and look at my hull with keel and keelson on (but not yet attached).  Still need another hour or so of refinement but I am happy with the progress and I can see the finish for this part of the project:
 

 
Tomorrow probably switch to the Lady Anne for awhile.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Thanks everyone for stopping by.
 
Tonight was another big night for Druid-X:  I affixed the first plank.  I am putting the wales on at this time to provide greater longitudinal strength.  I traced the wale pattern off of the plans and defined three plank widths.  The curvature of the wales was transferred to a piece of 1/8" thick basswood (double the 1/16" plank width) and this pattern cut / sanded out.  After I was satisfied with the curve I used dividers to define the width of one plank and also cut and sanded this out.  This continued for all three planks.
 
The middle plank was to span entirely across the cross section, the upper and lower ones being jointed three frames in (different sides).  I affixed the middle plank first given it was the easiest one.  The following pic shows the top one being put on:
 

 
I now laugh looking at this.  It was with the click of the shutter that I made a mental note to insure the joint in the lower was made on the opposite side.  The opposite side of.the.joint.that.I.had.forgot.to.put.in.  The glue sets fast but I was able to pry off the top plank without too much damage, cut the joint and re-attach.  Here is a shot of what it was supposed to look like originally:
 

 
I added the third plank then sanded the edges flush with the frames.  
 

 
In this pic you can see the face on view and also the chocks completed on the opposite side of the cross section.
 

 
Trying to accomplish a little bit with every hour - Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Slow but steady.  I worked the inlays into the front frame using walnut - that should make them pop with the finish.  After everything looked good I glued the frame to the jig.  I have begun work with the 27th frame (opposite) to do the same.  I waited until this time for these pieces so I could accurately account for the bevels.  This is targeted for eye candy so I wanted the join pieces to be placed consistently to look their best.
 

 
Lots of time spent on the frames.  If you have a solid base that is correct, the rest of the build is sooooo much easier. Bummer most of this will not be seen/
 
The outside of the hull is now faired (the inside is not as is pretty clear).  After doing the 27th frame my goal will be to get the wales on for maximum strength and then work the rabbet into the keel prior to attaching that.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Now to put the bevels in.
 
First step is to add spacers between the frames where the main wales will be.  So....I need to know the height for each frame.  I used a light box to copy the plans for the cross section to a blank piece of paper.  I then cut the plans so the floor was equivalent to the base jig.  This was then glued to a form that allows measurements to be taken off.
 
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I then was able to take measurements of the wale upper and lower limits and transfer to the model.  Then spacer pieces were added.  THEN the sanding starts.  I was just focusing on one of the external sides initially.  When the full outside is done I will attach the wales for complete stiffness before attempting the inside.
 
I did find the frames had some 'issues' conforming to a pre-bevel ready install.  I had flashbacks to the original Druid when I had problems in the same area.  I had though using the top spreaders would solve how this happened but I think there are a couple of issues with the drawn frames on the plans.  I actually cut one of the lower legs and re-glued in a slightly different orientation to make things match up better.  Some other frames had their slots enlarged to allow more movement prior to gluing.  You go slow and check your progress often and it was slowly brought into alignment.
 

 
I had a plank at the ready and checked how it laid on the hull often.  As a note the first and last frame are still not glued in.  I wanted to see exactly how the bevels affected them prior to adding the futtuck join pieces to insure they visually looked right.
 

 
For a current look and comparison, the following shot shows a beveled hull on the right and untouched on the left - big difference.
 

 
All this work will be hidden (except the keel) and it might thought to be overkill but I wanted this build to be equivalent to the original build.  
 
As an aside, I include a current view of my full HMS Druid at the Lowell Arts Building (pic from them).  Not looking too shabby.
 

 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks for all the likes.
 
Big day in the Krug household - time to glue the frames to the jig.  I did not glue the outermost frames, saving those for further refinements off board.  The keel is still removable.
 
I glued the outermost remaining ones to provide a firm grounding on opposite ends to keep everything in line (the keel riser notwithstanding).  I then worked inward gluing one at a time.  The frame was pushed below it's required level, the keel re-attached to the existing frames, then the new frame pulled up into position in its slot.  Wait a few minutes and on to the next one.
 

 
As can be seen, the keel was cut to the correct depth and the false keel also cut.  No longer any need for the keel risers.
 

 
Next is to add some frame spacers at the wale location to really lock everything in before sanding, and detail the outer frames.
 
Interesting to note with this building style the keel rabbet is not finished at this time.  In fact I used the frames as installed to determine exactly where the rabbet should be.
 
Mark

Just continuing to motor right along.
 
The sled on my Byrnes saw almost made this too easy (take'em when you can get'em).  I rubber cemented the required keel slot locations onto a piece of basswood (will cut to correct depth later on).
 

 
After it was dry I adjusted my Byrnes saw to the correct depth and using the sled cut all slots perfectly out in less than 5 minutes (test fitting a frame for each slot as I went).  
 

 
I also cut a slot on the keel height holders - which was a mistake, but no harm done.  The keel holder was the proper height of the keel BEFORE cutting.  With out the slots, the frames had actually been adjusted a tad too low in the previous pics taken.  Amazing how things like this pop up!  Glad I caught it now.
 
Then everything was put together with the frames into the slots (the picture has the incorrect slot in the keel holders).  Amazing how rigid and strong the structure became.
 

 
I now need to fix that keel holder and I will be good for starting to drill some trunnel holes as well as cut my purpleheart false keel.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

With some free time on this New Year's Day (everyone sleeping in) I dashed down to the shipyard.  Things seemed to go pretty fast at this stage.
 
I removed all paper from the frames and added the missing support wood.  I then methodically worked the positioning of the ten frames onto the jig.  Lots of back and forth to the scroll saw but well worth it.
 

 
Still some cleanup to do on each frame, primarily around the keel slot before I glue them into the base slots.  Then it will be on to the real keel.
 
I know the hull is centered on the jig and correctly positioned.  Any measurement on either side will match.  The base is parallel to the keel.  This should limit the 'surprises' in the future.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

With the frames roughed out it was time to think about how to make the Hahn style jig.  I had success previously with the full hull but had lessons learned for my building style (read accuracy and capability).  So I came up with the following:
 

 
First off, I did copy the base pattern off of the plans but did not go and cut it all out at once.  Lots of small errors compound to very noticeable ones.  So after cutting out the center portion I picked the first frame, centered it over its location then cut out notches for it to fit snugly.  I also fit out pillars that insured the keel was at the exact height and centered over the jig.  So the frame is inserted into its groove, the pseudo keel is put into position and then the frame is pulled up into position perpendicular to the board. 
 
For the next frame I inserted a 1/8" board spacer to define the start point of the frame, then measured as above off of this starting position.  Very close to the plans but tweeked here and there.  So everything is based off of the first frame.
 
Nothing is glued yet (still have to scrape off the remaining templates).  After everything is verified, the frames will be glued and then the real keel will be fashioned.
 
Also need to detail out the face frames of the first and last exposed frames.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

With the holidays (and the family flu) in the rear view mirror I finally spent some time in the shipyard.  I finally got all ten frames rough cut out.  No bevels yet (after they are installed in the jig) and the face frame sides will have futtock join pieces with trunnels added.
 

 
You can see one of my Christmas gifts from the kids - 1:48 scale plastic figures.  They are Air Force ground crew figures, so some modifications will need to be made, however I really liked the look of them on the full Druid.  Nice to see the figures fit so well.  They will be all over the cross section: climbing, cleaning, firing - you name it.
 
Next up is to cut out the base jig to hold these frames inverted (the Hahn method).  Hope to pick up the wood tomorrow.  You can also see the other big gift from the family:  Volume IV of the Swan books - AWESOME!
 

 
BTW:  I picked up this sanding belt cleaner bar and it works fantastic.  I would highly recommend.  It basically brings the sandpaper back to like new.  The top of the spindle sander hasn't been treated, below it has.  Simply push it against the running drum whenever it is starting to gum up.
 

 
In other news:  The full Druid has been invited to another Art Showing for January in Lowell, Michigan.  This will be followed by a request for a business to host for another month.  Tremendous positive feedback.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

In the Army there is a saying that no plan survives first contact, and it looks like it applies to ship modeling also.  After butchering a frame and a half I took a step back and reevaluated how I was making the frames.  After punching out three successful frames I have found what works for me.
 
I still used the rough cut out futtock pieces (trying to get a 1/16" buffer around).  I then proceeded to exact cut the join edges without refining the other edges.
 

 
The layers were then independently glued together over an uncut picture of the frame.  I omitted the upper pieces on the top layer to allow both layers to be aligned.
 
Then using a faux keel for center alignment and matching the upper parts of the frames the frames were glued together.
 

 
For the final steps after drying I used the spindle sander to finalize the frame outline and removed the last of the paper templates.
 

 
This is what worked for me.  Now just to get the rest of these frames finished off (if I can keep the rest of the family from getting the flu).
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

A few more pictures. I still have not mastered my camera yet, but I hope I am gradually improving...

Finally I managed to start a building log. I have unfortunately already more than 2 years behind me, so it is too late for the early stages. I have not figured out how to make good pictures yet, so these pictures are kind of a test....

Greeting all
Well here we go with another build. There was quite a few ships that I would love to build but frightened me off including the SOS and the San Felipe. So hopefully I can cope with the DIana which should keep me happy for a couple of years. I like others will replace the tanganijka strip with maple when I find how many strips are needed, as the supplied looks horrid. I will also need to purchase some decent dowel, as some of the supplied would come back if you threw it away. There are also a few castings that are not useable, so I shall just order them when I purchase the maple strip. One thing that did surprise me was no cannon balls are supplied, which one would have thought would be needed on the ship, after all it has cannons. I have made a start on the build as you can see, and all the bulkheads have been faired, but will obviously need some attention during the planking. You can see the planking on deck (18) which is the supplied timber, and is gladly unseen. So wish me lots of luck chaps , and off I go with my build, and please post loads of photos, I will definitely need them. Here's a few of mine. DAVID

And finally me very proud on the beach