bhermann

Lower Shrouds Main Mast…

Shrouds over Main Mast…

Seize Shrouds with series of half hitch knots alternating outside and in. 

Six knots…

Slide up to proper height, repeat other side. 

Laser cut Deadeyes need grove filed for shroud to attach. 

Seize Shroud with waxed thread. Do not glue until length is adjusted. 

Home made wire jig adjusted to 15mm between deadeyes. 

Hate it when this happens. Let’s hope there are extras. 😬

Lower Shroud Upper Deadeyes Seized and glued in place. 

Thread lanyards through deadeys. Be sure to maintain proper tautness and centered mast. Easier said than done. 

Glue these Seized Shrouds so they do not come unraveled.

First two Lower Shrouds completed. 
 
Cheers 🍻 
 

Masts installed!  This marks completion of the build, with the exception of a few minor details still to be added.  

Getting a start on the rigging.   I started with the foremast shrouds, then stopped, when I was not happy with the results using the supplied rigging line.  I am OK with the supplied black line for the shrouds, but the tan just wasn't working for the deadeye lanyards.  The smallest diameter line was too small and the next size up fit, but did not look well defined, as the thread wind is pretty loose.  The line isn't pulled snug in the photo below, but the look didn't improve much even when it was.

I went to Syreneshipmodel.com and ordered two sizes of their tan rope, .012 and .018.  The .018 worked perfectly and what a difference in quality!  Syrene on the left and kit rope on the right.

I cut lengths of the .018 black line and seized the middle, where it wraps around the mast and the ends, where the deadeye are seized in.  Once the seizing thread is tied on, I put a little diluted white glue on the shroud line the length of the seized section.  This secures the thread and, as I am winding, the little dot of white helps to show the progress of the wrapping.  It can be hard to see with the back on black and I think it helps to avoid any gaps in the seizing.

Shrouds attached and lanyards threaded through the deadeyes and tied off.

I used the same carbon fiber rod for the sheer pole as on the upper shrouds.  Started on the ratlines.  

Tim

I thought I posted more pictures… I hope I didn’t put them on someone else’s build log 😳.
 
Decking and decking and more decking.
 

 

Well, a final entry from me in this log. Here she is in her new home:
 

 

 
Regards,
George

Bought some 2.5mm & 3.5mm deadeyes from Forum sponsor Crafty Sailor which were close to the size of the iron straps I made, but did have to file the edges so that they were more round.
Once that was done I stained them black with India ink.

To connect to the chain plates I used .035" bolt head and .035" nuts, these I filed down the head of bolt and nut thickness to that the size looked better.

The one on the right has been filed, then made a quick jig so that I could install nuts onto bolts, now the chain plates are all installed into the slots but still need to pin chain plates to hull, these chain plates will now only stick out .005" 

Next up was to install the two pumps, put the three parts together with .016" brass rod and then mounted to the bases with small bolts, then mount both onto deck.
 

Started to paint the Companionway, skylight, deck-house and steering box, it says to use burnt umber and white, so have used this paint True Earth for the burnt umber and it goes on brilliantly with a brush, masked off where white will go.
 

Once dry I masked off the burnt umber then sprayed white. Also sprayed up the small parts which go along with these items.
 

This is how it turned out.
 

Had the Quarter bitts the wrong way round opps, now corrected, at the same time glue the grate down.
Did glue the steering wheel to shaft, installed a bolt at front of wheel and painted brass on the ends of each wooden handle, I read somewhere they had brass inlays.

Mounted the painted scroll to see how it will look but have not glued on yet, did get the scroll thickness down to .012" from .018" before painting.
 

Couple of pic's in black and white.

 
Until next time.
 
Regards
Richard
 
 

Main Top Mast Futtock Shrouds…

Main Upper Shrouds…

 
Lanyards…

Main Upper Shroud Rat Lines…

Oops 😬 This is what happens when your vice is not mounted. Reached for my coffee and found my Main Mast on the floor. 

Certainly a panic moment, but a little CA glue and it’s like it never happened….

Adding ties to the Mast Hoops to tie down the sails latter. 

Links for hanging Blocks…

Stroping Peak Halliard Blocks…

Onwards…
 
Cheers 🍻
 

I guess that’s why they look like that’s what it needs to lay down. 
I see the note now on sheet 6. I was going to leave them on the outside. 
 
I’m still working out how to build them lol.
 
Looks like my list of ‘I’ve no clue how to do that’ is getting bigger. 🤣. The Benjamin W. Latham might be ‘easy’ when I get this Bluenose done. 
 

 

Main rail wood work complete. Monkey rail done. Buffalo rail done. Chain plate slots made. Joints cleaned, light sanding to the main rail bits. 
 
Decking in progress. Deviation from the decking plans was taken, it would look nice tapered and with nibbing, another day I couldn’t ‘see’ how I would do it well. 
 
Extra effort early on to place the bulkheads height paid off during planking. It all laid down nice so far. 
 
I’ve got by some hard parts in my mind. I’ve worried over the deck furniture for 2 decades, that’s next after decking. Well maybe some of the main rail details before the deck gets cluttered.   
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continuation of parts already made, which had parts needing to be made and painted, starting with the boom buffer.
Made the two U-shape shackles from a piece of .010" brass using my turbo carver ground to shape then filed to finish shape then made ring next was to drill holes for .016" rod to go through. 
 
 

Painted boom buffer and installed onto model.
 

Next up was to finish the catheads, needed to make small chain link then attach it to the chain as per drawing then put into slot in cathead.
 

Last thing will add is the rope which goes on the end of chain as per drawing from The American Fishing Schooner, the information on this did not come on the drawings of the Bluenose, but I am sure they would have been the same.
 

 

 
Finished the hawse scroll work then painted them yellow, will add to model later.
 
 
 
Couple of pic's to show how they will look before painting.
 

 
Thanks for all the comments and all the likes do apricate it.
 
Until next time
Regards
Richard
 
 

Picture are loading up black, then might work after I edit them. Strange. 
 
Gluing monkey rail bits down and forming the rail to hold the shape. 
 
Work is so relentless, I got a few hours in tonight. 
 

ha! Straight pins in pre drilled holes. I got this part now. The best news is my hand doesn’t hurt nor going numb. 
 

Main Sheet Boom buffer work.
 
I’m getting ready to glue the main rail down and start working on the monkey rail and buffalo rail. 🤞🏻
 

 

 
 
A bit of delay for production in just about anything, carpel tunnel release surgery last Monday. My hand no longer goes numb like it did, test driving the hand today to see how it’s turned out. Hand and elbow release was performed. Painting the hull weeks ago was rough, my hand was going totally numb. 
 
While I was recovering I bough 2 more ships to build, MS Confederacy and the Occre Beagle. I commited myself to completing the 4 I have in work before I start yet another, at least this is the plan…. lol. I’ve got many many months of building if not years with the list of kits. 
 

Main Gaff…

Main Gaff completed…
 
Fore Boom…

I cut thin strips of brass, these Eye Bands are the smallest thus far. 

Fore Boom completed. 
 
Fore Gaff…

Fore Gaff Jaws

Peak Halliards Bands soldered

Bands blackened 

Fore Gaff completed
 
Jib Boom…

Jib Clew Band

Jib Sheet Band

Cleaning up solder

All bands blackened

Hardware complete on Jib Boom

Jib Boom completed 
 
All 5 Booms and Gaffs completed 

I think we are ready to start rigging and sails. Woo Hoo! 🍻

I have completed and installed the chainplates.  I cut the brass strip to the appropriate lengths and then drilled a 1/32 hole through one end of each strip.  I also marked the holes for nails at the other end, but decided to wait to drill them until the deadeyes were attached.

Using the kit supplied copper wire, I wrapped a piece around each deadeye and the fed the ends through the 1/32 hole until the deadeye was snugged up to the strip.  I then bent the wire out to the sides.  I thought this would made a reasonable facsimile of a bolt.

I folded over the short end of brass strip, crimped down with pliers and the soldered.


 I created a jig to drill the remaining holes in the chain plate.  As luck would have it, the blade currently on my saw is the same width as the brass strip.  A shallow pass through a scrap piece of wood provided a channel for the strip.  I drilled out one extra strip with holes per the plan and placed this on top of the chain plate in the slot.  I forgot to take a picture with the chainplate inserted, but below is the jig.

All the chainplates have been installed.

On to the rigging!
 
Tim
 

After going through the deck plans again to make sure all of the various eyebolts, belaying pins, etc were in place, I realized that I had not made the jumbo jib boom stay.  Another opportunity for soldering practice! 

While the masts were still separate from the hull, I took the opportunity to add the spreader lifts/ratlines to the foremast and the topmast shrouds/ratlines to the main mast.  I seized the shrouds at the mid point then wrapped around the topmast and tied off.  I used tan thread run through the eyes on the spreader bars to create the lanyards and then fed the shroud lines through and tied off.  I used pieces of carbon fiber rod, lashed to the shrouds for the sheer poles. The ratlines were tied with a regular knot on the left side and then a clove hitch on the right.  Once all were tied and lined up, I added a bit of glue to each knot to hold everything in place.



All that remains to add is the chain plates.  The additional brass strips came in from Model Expo, so I have started to make those and should have them finish and installed today.
 
Tim
 

To continue on the update I spray painted the Jumbo boom crutch, Riding bitts, Engine box then hand painted the windlass chain/wood welps then proceeded to put it together with quadrants, quadrant links and Rocker, did make a rough little jig to hold parts while I installed shackles.
 



Then using the 1/12 motorbike chain I had mention back when I machined the gears I file the chain down so it looked like the size it should be, after that I sprayed it black.
 

 

Bought some 1/64 scale fishermen from Vanguard Models which are brilliant here's couple of pic's so that you can see how big these gears were.
 
 
Next was to install the steering linkage to the rudder, the steering box still needs to be painted.
 

last pic added the three circles between name on stern, still need to paint the cabin housing but did spray paint the Liverpool head and Dreadnaught head.
 


Until next time.
 
Regards
Richard

Been working on the Victory and kept looking over at the Bluenose and felt it was well due for an update, 1y 2m since last one 🤔
 
So thought I would start with getting the name and scroll work on a black board, used Clover House dry transfers, Railroad Roman Condensed Bold - yellow which I think was the closest to the drawing. Scroll work I hand painted, do think I should have left a bit more space between letters or letters could have been smaller. 
 
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/924/ICnGMg.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/922/wMW0Z2.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/923/H2xbwt.jpg
Now the stern name plate was white, did try dry transfers but failed miserably, so started to make a decal, used word to make this but had quite a few rejects.
 
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/923/sokCSb.jpg
 
Tried Inkjet printing first, printing was fine used Experts Choice white decal film for inkjet, then followed the instructions to cover the decal with Microscale Liquid Decal film then let it dry for a couple of days. 
 
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/924/1jPdRC.jpg
Then went to put decal on the model once I left in water for 45 seconds the ink just peel off the decal leaving more of a white space, so kept trying and could not get it to work (this was the first time making decals) so went on you-tube and one guy was saying you should use a Laser printer, so went and bought a laser printer then had to get white decal film for laser printer.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/924/9Z00Us.jpg
So for me this worked yeah 
 
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/924/8BQulk.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/924/B88lZV.jpg
The three white rings to be done later.
To be continued.
 
Regards
Richard
 

Booms and Gaffs…

Dowels cut to length…  Lots of sanding needed to shape the dowels. 
 
Note from instructions:
 
Spar tapers: Fishing schooners are a little different from other ships. Notice on the plans that the forward side of masts, lower side of gaffs and bowsprit, and top side of booms is a straight line. This is done to better match the sail or position mast hoops. All other faces are tapered.
To avoid confusion, identify the straight side on each spar with a pencil mark at both ends. Taper the dowel with a file. Or, lightly slice it with a hobby blade or small plane, then sand to its final shape. Using a lathe or electric drill to taper these dowels doesn’t work due to the straight edge.
 




Close enough… Rinse and repeat for the remaining Booms and Gaffs. 


Booms and Gaffs all shaped to specification and ready for Details. 
 
Main Boom Details…
 
Main Boom Jaws



Boom Tackle Band


Rope Eye for Lazy Jack Line


Quarter Lift Band

Main Sheet Band

Sheaves for Topping Lift

Topping Lift Band

Clew Band

Main Boom Complete 

1 of 5 Booms and Gaffs done… 

Cheers 🍻 

Another update - I finished the catheads and anchors.  I didn't keep a whole lot of notes on this work during construction and install, so a pretty simple explanation.  First of all, I did not like the Britannia castings of the catheads in the kit.  So, like many others who have built this Bluenose, I scrapped the castings and created my own version.  Not sure if they are totally in scale, but pretty close.  For the pole portion of the catheads, I used a 1/32" brass rod and a small 1/8" square wood strip, sanded and tapered. At first, I bent the rods a bit too low (in that first pic), but before placing them on the ship, I adjusted their height.  I also made a small little "stand" for the rod to sit in on the deck, using a rounded-off dowel cut very short. 
 
      
 
I really had to study and refer to several resources, especially the Bluenose II - Saga of the Great Fishing Schooners by L.B. Jenson, which I have referred to quite often in this build for information.  This time it was to remind myself exactly how the catheads work in relation to the anchors and the windlass.  Very interesting and informative.  On page 55 of the book, Mr. Jenson has drawings of the working anchors and cables in various stages of operation, whether it was anchor positions during normal stowage, when the club anchor (port side) was ready to let go for normal anchoring in harbor, or when the fishing anchor (starboard side) was ready to let go.  From that discussion, it appears that there was actually just the one cathead (davit) on board, and they would shift it from one side to the other depending on need.  For this kit, though, we are putting two catheads in position.  As I said, very interesting.
 
With all that said, I placed the port side club anchor on the cathead and ran the anchor chain from the anchor, through the hawse pipe, looped it around the windlass a few times, laid a few flakes of chain on the deck (my flakes did not come out awesome), and the remaining chain in the wooden box.  I thought that all came out pretty well.
 
For the starboard side anchor, the cathead stands empty, with the anchor, wood stock and coiled hemp cable laid on the deck for display.  Under normal stowage, according to Mr. Jenson, this starboard-side fishing anchor would be stowed with the lower fluke lashed to a ringbolt inside the rail with the stock hund outside the rail, nearly vertical against the side (which is pretty much how the port side anchor is secured).
 
       
 
       
 
Dories are next.  And, from what I've read of others' build logs regarding the dories, this will no doubt be challenging.  And, with the Thanksgiving holiday approaching, I will be surprised if I get past these before then.  With that said, to my fellow USA modelers, have a safe and enjoyable Thanksgiving holiday weekend.  To all, fair winds and following seas!

A couple updates...  I needed to complete the work on the chain plates before I did too much more on other things.  I mentioned in my previous post that I figured to have some valid reason for not cutting the holes/slots for the chainplates while I was putting in the rails.  And I was kicking myself now for every one of the twenty (20) slots I had to cut into the rails after-the-fact.  Message to all future Bluenose builders... CUT THE CHAINPLATE SLOTS WHEN YOU INSTALL THE RAILS!
 
OK, enough self-criticism... here's what I was able to accomplish.  I marked the locations of the chainplates on the main rails and the monkey rails based on the plans.  In order to assure that I was drilling the holes on the correct side of the bulwarks and, when drilling the holes in the quarter deck rails, going thru both the monkey rail and main rail, I decided to drill from the underside, from the bottom up, to give myself a better visual of where I was going with the drill bit.  I also was reminded how crucial the placement of the main rails is on top of the bulwark and stanchions, in order to give you the spacing required for these chain plates. 
 
Anyways, I used a #61 micro drill bit to begin each hole/slot and then, using my 2 largest micro-size precision reamers, I enlarged each of the slots until a "test" brass strip could fit into the hole.  The kit-provided brass strips are 1/64" thick by 1/16" wide.  But, when the tops of the strips are folded over to secure the wire holding the deadeyes, that thickness doubles to 1/32" plus a bit more due to the twisted wire thickness.
 
      
 
As the chain plates were slid into each hole for testing, the paint job on the rails and the hull was taking a beating.  Definitely going to require a lot of touchup.  Again, another reason for doing this cutting sooner. <head slap>
 
Actually, preparing the chainplates and deadeyes was the smoothest part of this process.  I prepared a small jig, similar to what was done for the pintles and gudgeons, in order to drill the holes in the chainplates per the plans.  My new Proxxon drill press with the X/Y table came in handy once again!  Then, using a pair of hemostat forceps and a vise, I wrapped the thin brass wire provided in the kit around the deadeyes and twisted them. That is what, then, was secured into the tops of each chainplate.
 
      
 
Long story short (I know, too late for that), I was able to place each of the twenty (20) chainplates and deadeyes in their locations with some work.  Drilled holes in the hull at the chainplate hole locations and, using small brass nails with heads on them and a spot of CA glue, secured the nails to the chainplates to simulate bolts.  I then spot-retouched all of the paint job that I had damaged in the process.  I hope they will all look good once I get to the rigging.
 
        
 
Before I get to the anchors and cathead installation, I wanted to do some additional work on the deck.  I was wanting to place some barrels just ahead of the cabin, but wasn't totally sure how to place them.  I was then inspired by the work that John Ruy has done on his Bluenose, as well as looking at the pictures of the old Bluenose on the Nova Scotia Archives website. 
 
So, I constructed a little rack holding a half-dozen barrels along with a couple other barrels tied to the front of the cabin.  The barrels I used were from Model Shipways, 35/64" x 15/32" (14x12mm), and I think were sized about right.  I also had a slightly bigger alternative, but that sized barrel just looked too big for scale, even for the black ones that are tied to the cabin.  Not perfect, but I think they came out pretty well, and they add nicely to the deck furnishings, as depicted in those old pictures.  Thanks to John for the reminder and the inspiration! 
 
        
 
Now I think it's time for the catheads and anchors work.  Let's see how well this goes... 

Now I'm going to have to review my miscellaneous rigging hardware placement.  I am sure I missed the eyes between the shrouds, and some of the other details may be a bit week.  A great reminder to keep checking everything!
 
Bob

Missed Details…
 
Before moving on to Booms And Gaffs, I thought I would review some rigging detail on Sheet 6. I wanted to double check that I had placed “all” of the eyelets, etc… needed to tie off the rigging. My review paid off…
 

The Jumbo Jib Boom Traveler Block and the Jumbo Jib Stay Bail had not been placed. 

An eyelet for the Inhaul Tackle needed to be placed. 

I had forgotten that I intended to include the clutch levers for the Hoisting Engine Gear Assembly. 

Needed to place 4 eyelets on the rail between the 3rd and 4th Lower Shrouds. 

Also needed Eyelets for the Main Throat and Peak Halliards.

And the Halliards on the Fore Mast as well as the Jumbo Jib Sheet Traveler Horse. 

Also 2 eyelets and a staple on the Bowsprit for Halliards and Bob Stays. 

I hope I found all of the missing attachments. 😜 These would be rather difficult to place after the shrouds and standing rigging are completed. 
 
So many details…
 
Now, I think I can move on to Booms and Gaffs…
 
Cheers 🍻
 
 
 

Main Top Mast…


Main and Fore Top Masts are completed.
Cheers 🍻 
 

Research 🧐 into the ownership of the original Bluenose. 
 
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angus_Walters
 
Captain and part owner of the Bluenose, Angus James Walters. 

Interesting a Committee of Halifax Businessmen came together to build the Bluenose as Fishing Schooner that could win races internationally. 
 
Good stuff…  It really was built as a racing schooner. 
 
 
Bluenose was constructed by Smith and Rhuland in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia. The schooner's keel was laid in 1920. The Governor General the Duke of Devonshire drove a golden spike into the timber during the keel-laying ceremony.[8] She was launched on 26 March 1921, and christened by Audrey Smith, daughter of the shipbuilding Richard Smith.[9][10] She was built to be a racing ship and fishing vessel, in response to the defeat of the Nova Scotian fishing schooner Delawana by the Gloucester, Massachusetts, fishing schooner Esperanto in 1920, in a race sponsored by the Halifax Herald newspaper.[11]

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluenose#:~:text=Bluenose's captain and part,schooner reached the racing port.
 

Fore Topmast complete…

Replaced the CA glued Hilliard Shackles with the newly soldered one. Touched up the top tapper and placed the Gilt Ball. I cut off a white sewing pin 1/8” from the head a C A glued it in place. Trucks for the Flag Halliard Re so small at this scale, I will represent the truck with black thread. 
 
Now maybe I can move on to the Main Topmast. Cheers 🍻