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John Ruy

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About John Ruy

  • Birthday 03/11/1953

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Biddeford, Maine
  • Interests
    Retired visiting New England coastline and ports. Building historic models of great ships of the age of sail.

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  1. Seems like a long time since I have updated, but its only been about three weeks. Happy to report Standing Rigging is completed. The Fore Lower Yard is in place. Prepared with the associated Running Rigging Blocks and Sheet Chains. I have decided to build without sails. I would hate to cover up the details that are taking so long to complete. πŸ˜† Still need to complete Rat Lines and Battens. Very tedious.... Here is a closeup is the Main Shrouds at the Main Lower Doubling. Feels like she has a long way to go. However, looking back there are a lot of accomplishments. Hours spent now stand at 344. Began this Journey back on January 21st 2020. Seems like so long ago...😎 Onward 🍻
  2. Another interesting read on whaling. From the New Bedford Whaling Museum. https://www.whalingmuseum.org/learn/research-topics/overview-of-north-american-whaling/life-aboard
  3. Ron, It appears that the roof between the two deck houses covering the steering wheel provided shelter for the helmsmen. I believe this was a unique feature of the whaling bark. Although that also juju included shade from the tropical South Pacific sun, I am sure it sheltered the helmsman from the rough storms including hurricanes. My thoughts based on what I have read on the Whaling Industry. http://www.girlonawhaleship.org/jernapp/refCard.do?shortName=bark The two cabins were connected overhead to provide shelter for the helmsmen at the steering wheel, in the "hurricane house."
  4. Brad, I have found Loctite Super Glue to work well. It seems to be CA glue of medium gel as to not run all over the place but form very small drops and stay were you want it to when gluing the wood strips. Needs clamping, but sets in a minute or less. You can find it most anywhere. I like the long tip applicator. John
  5. Brad, I have found Loctite Super Glue to work well. It seems to be CA glue of medium gel as to not run all over the place but form very small drops and stay were you want it to when gluing the wood strips. Needs clamping, but sets in a minute or less. You can find it most anywhere. I like the long tip applicator. John
  6. Great job David. This is a stunningly beautiful model. I love the detail.
  7. Started working on more details for the tackle. Hooks I need hooks... I also decide to let my OCD have it’s way and re-did the sheet chains on the lower fore mast. Better to change it now. πŸ˜† I also wanted to redo the center block for those chains. Built one for the lower main mast as well. New chains a much improved look. πŸ‘ Also finished the lower shrouds for all three masts. Latter... 😎
  8. Lower Fore Yard rigging completed and ready mounting. A first for me, I have not built a yard arm from scratch. My Marine Model Company vintage kit did not included all running rigging in its drawings. Sheet Chains were completely left out. Perhaps for simplification, the reason is unknown. Fortunately I have a very good resources here on MSW. Thank you David Lester for your CWM build log. OK back to shrouds and standing rigging, this build getting more interesting everyday. And fun too. 😎
  9. Decided to develop my process for building yard arms. So I can switch up from the rigging process. Building jack stays from 1/32 stock. I laminated two pieces together then cutout the bottom spaces. Detail sanded under a magnifier. 🧐 And marked the spar to ready them for assembly. Using very small amounts of CA glue placed the jack stays on the spar. Using black construction paper created iron straps and glued them in place with fabric glue. Drilled out the spar for mounting of the Truss. Drilled pilot holes and mounted the eyelets. Checked the fit and eyelet placement prior to painting. Painted the completed yard arm white. Ready for foot ropes and blocks. Only 11 of these to go, now I can change up from tying all those rat lines to building yard arms and back. Onward 😎
  10. A few paint layers and some sanding she now has canvases roof tops. Decided to stay with yellow ochre vs white based on what I could see of the hurricane house roof in this photo taken in Boston Harbor. Bob, I did find an example of white oxide painting on this model in the Mystic Museum. This model looks to be depicting very early in her career. Besides, I didn’t want to repaint the bulwarks at this point. So that was a great detour and distraction from rigging, but now it’s time to get back to tying those tiny tiny rat lines. cheers 🍻
  11. This makes a lot of sense, however I think I’ll stay with what I have. I may go back and lighten up my roof tops with a few coats of lighter ochre to give it a sun faded look. This time I’ll let the scribing on the decking fill in a bit to look more canvas covered. Thanks Ron for asking the question, thanks Tom for adding to the discussion and thanks Bob for brining our modeling world to life. Ron, I am Looking forward to seeing what you do with this on your MS CWM. cheers 🍻
  12. Thank you Bob for your knowledge. Covering is what I suspected... That covering at my models scale would basically be the paint used. In this case would I be correct in assuming the covering would have been painted yellow ochre? 😎

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