Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About bhermann

  • Rank
    I am only an egg

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Connecticut, USA

Recent Profile Visitors

1,313 profile views
  1. John - like you, Bluenose was my first planking job and the filler was needed to hide my mess . About the walnut veneer - I found other uses for it, mostly in covering the roof of deck structures, and also as a filler for a couple of the bulkheads that were just a tad too thin on their own. Bob
  2. Very nice start, John. That will give you a great basis to work from. I used decals for the Bluenose name at the head, still haven't figured a way to do the stern lettering yet. I did the scrollwork by hand. You can find the details in the summary log I posted (link in my signature). Looking forward to watching your build develop. Bob
  3. Nice finish to a beautiful model, David. I like that you rigged the gaffs in the lowered position, consistent with no sails bent on them. Very nice details all around. Bob
  4. Per - do you really Moon us??? Nice image. On the bars, did you consider trying to file slots in the underside of the frame? I know they would be tiny, but if it could be done, that might provide a little more purchase to hold the bars in place. BTW, I am no expert on the skylight windows - all I did was paint some black squares on the solid white box to simulate windows, pretty cheesy. Bob
  5. Welcome to the Bluenose crew, Ed. It looks like you are off to a solid start and making sensible choices as you get into it. Ah, that aft end of the former - I snapped it off and repaired it at least twice. It is just a finicky thing to deal with. I am looking forward to watching your progress on a beautiful ship! Bob
  6. Per, if I may. I suspect John is referring to the tops of the bulkheads that become some of the deck stanchions. My recollection is that the kit-provided bulkheads were thicker than the stanchion dimension, and that is the reason for thinning the top of the bulkhead above where the decking is laid, to make those tops the same thickness as the stanchions. For my build (many years back) I simply cut off all the bulkhead extensions and installed new stanchions above the deck from end to end. If I'm wrong, John will post a reference to the post he is talking about, and we
  7. I am just catching up on this build and enjoying very much. I will be following along. Thanks for the link to the Gene Bodnar practicum, I had seen it a few years ago, but lost track of it over time as I have been away from my Bluenose build for a few years. Great start and I am looking forward to following your progress! Bob
  8. Chuck (and the rest of the staff) - thanks for working through this issue and for being willing to take on the task of sorting it all out once the decision is made. I voted for the Era designation, it seems to avoid more complications than the Country of Origin classification. Bob PS. I will have to wait on thanking the barmaid until the bars open - sometime soon around here.
  9. That is a fine looking eagle, Ron! Very nicely done, with a deft touch. And nice shots of the hawk (red tail?). We have a few of them hanging around the neighborhood here durning the day, and owls at night! Bob
  10. Nice to see them all marching into place, Per. Now what spell did you use to get them to do that? The finish looks very good too! Bob
  11. Agreed on the lack of glass. On the Model Shipways plan they are listed as "Air ports", which indicate ventilation as the main purpose to my mind. Because I have no detail inside the cabin, I painted a block of wood flat black and glued it to the inside of the cabin wall to finish them off and prevent any view to the undetailed inside. Love these latest details you have added. The boom buffer is a major improvement on the cast kit parts! Bob
  12. Jim - I found Russ's tutorial in the Ship Modeling Materials and Tools section of the Articles database. It gave me a very good start on silver soldering. Take a look if you get the chance. Bob
  13. Welcome aboard, Jim (or should I say McDaddy?). I'm glad I could help out with your mystery. I learned my soldering from a tutorial Russ had posted on the MSW 1.0 site. I use a silver solder paste, which I can't read the label on any more, as it has faded a lot over the past 10 years or so. Since I only have the one tube, I can safely say all my soldering has been done at one temperature. I have been able to solder as many as four lugs on a single band on the bowsprit, so there has been no need for multiple temperatures. I use a Bernzomatic butane micro torch which I think I p
  14. Thanks for the photos, Richard. Yes, I should have said I found pictures of the chainplates inlaid into the hull. I am building the Model Shipways kit and when I read the note about them being flush with the hull, I interpreted that as being the outside face of the chainplates being even with the planking. The photo I based my judgement on is here: https://novascotia.ca/archives/bluenose/archives.asp?ID=88 In any case I discovered the information after I had laid the chainplates proud of the hull and I'll live with it. Bob
  15. Hi Richard I have been using the Nova Scotia Archive site for a lot of what I have done so far. Most of the detail photos there are from later in Bluenose history, and there are some taken from dockside earlier in her career. The site is here, if you don't have it. https://novascotia.ca/archives/bluenose/ I also have visited the L. A. Dunton at Mystic Seaport and have several photos of her. While she was built by Chapelle, she is contemporary with Bluenose and shares some detail. I know you aren't there yet, one of my main regrets thus far is
  • Create New...