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bhermann

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About bhermann

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    I am only an egg

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    Connecticut, USA

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  1. I am just catching up on this build and enjoying very much. I will be following along. Thanks for the link to the Gene Bodnar practicum, I had seen it a few years ago, but lost track of it over time as I have been away from my Bluenose build for a few years. Great start and I am looking forward to following your progress! Bob
  2. That is a fine looking eagle, Ron! Very nicely done, with a deft touch. And nice shots of the hawk (red tail?). We have a few of them hanging around the neighborhood here durning the day, and owls at night! Bob
  3. Nice to see them all marching into place, Per. Now what spell did you use to get them to do that? The finish looks very good too! Bob
  4. Agreed on the lack of glass. On the Model Shipways plan they are listed as "Air ports", which indicate ventilation as the main purpose to my mind. Because I have no detail inside the cabin, I painted a block of wood flat black and glued it to the inside of the cabin wall to finish them off and prevent any view to the undetailed inside. Love these latest details you have added. The boom buffer is a major improvement on the cast kit parts! Bob
  5. Jim - I found Russ's tutorial in the Ship Modeling Materials and Tools section of the Articles database. It gave me a very good start on silver soldering. Take a look if you get the chance. Bob
  6. Welcome aboard, Jim (or should I say McDaddy?). I'm glad I could help out with your mystery. I learned my soldering from a tutorial Russ had posted on the MSW 1.0 site. I use a silver solder paste, which I can't read the label on any more, as it has faded a lot over the past 10 years or so. Since I only have the one tube, I can safely say all my soldering has been done at one temperature. I have been able to solder as many as four lugs on a single band on the bowsprit, so there has been no need for multiple temperatures. I use a Bernzomatic butane micro torch which I think I picked up at Home Depot. I tried several pencil grip torches before settling on the micro torch. I had a terrible time refilling them, this one has worked well for me. Here is a link to the torch (or a newer version of my torch) on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Bernz-Matic-ST2200T-Micro-Butane/dp/B000PS9TQI?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2 I will poke around and see if the Russ tutorial made it to MSW 2.0. One of the main things to remember is that the solder flows toward the heat, not away from it. Once I figured that out I got much better at getting good connections on the first try. Bob
  7. Thanks for the photos, Richard. Yes, I should have said I found pictures of the chainplates inlaid into the hull. I am building the Model Shipways kit and when I read the note about them being flush with the hull, I interpreted that as being the outside face of the chainplates being even with the planking. The photo I based my judgement on is here: https://novascotia.ca/archives/bluenose/archives.asp?ID=88 In any case I discovered the information after I had laid the chainplates proud of the hull and I'll live with it. Bob
  8. Hi Richard I have been using the Nova Scotia Archive site for a lot of what I have done so far. Most of the detail photos there are from later in Bluenose history, and there are some taken from dockside earlier in her career. The site is here, if you don't have it. https://novascotia.ca/archives/bluenose/ I also have visited the L. A. Dunton at Mystic Seaport and have several photos of her. While she was built by Chapelle, she is contemporary with Bluenose and shares some detail. I know you aren't there yet, one of my main regrets thus far is not placing the chainplates flush with the hull. I didn't realize unto after I had installed mine that they should have been. Pictures of Bluenose and my visit to the Dunton confirm this was the case. Given the amount of work you have put in to accuracy of your model, I'm guessing you would want to do that. Bob
  9. Richard I have been away from the forum for a while and just discovered your Bluenose. The level of detail and authenticity you are putting into this is just amazing. I will be following along as you proceed with the build. Thanks for sharing all the great information on your sources and how you are approaching each of these "mini-builds", that will come together into one fantastic schooner by the time you are done with it. Bob
  10. Danny, I am so sorry to hear of your situation. My thoughts and prayers are with you, sir. I first became aware of your fine work and sage advice in the MSW 1.0 days and have appreciated the encouragement you gave to me and countless others over the years. Watching your builds in progress has been a source of inspiration to many of us, and your work supporting the site has been invaluable as well. May you find comfort and joy in the time to come. With utmost respect, Bob
  11. Late breaking news - I am now in the process of setting up for retirement (yay!) and expect to be back in the shipyard soon. It has been way too long since I have put any time in on Bluenose. I did blow some of the heavier dust off the other day. It'll be good to be back at it! Bob
  12. J - I took a look back at my restarted log. I detailed the scupper work here: As far as the colors go, my recollection is that the practicum had a lot of areas on the rail painted white where the plans called for them to be black, and vice-versa. I apologize but I haven't looked at the practicum, nor the plans for deck painting schemes for a few years. What I recall is that the practicum called for a number of rail tops to be black, and the outer side white, but the plans called for white tops and black outer sides. The plan information and scheme looked more real-world to me. Who knows, she may have been painted both ways at different points in her career! Bob
  13. Good to see you at it again, Per. You are coming along nicely. Bob
  14. Nice start on your Bluenose, J. You did a really nice job on the hull and deck planking. I also started with the Hunt Practicum, as Bluenose is my first wood build as well. Like DBorgens, I followed the Hunt practicum at the start, but stopped around the time of the deck furniture. I also thought some of his instruction on painting the upper hull and rails didn't match the plans well, so followed the plans instead. There was also the matter of the scuppers, which I did differently than he called for. In any case, it will be fun to watch your progress, things are looking fine thus far! Bob
  15. Hi BigJ and welcome to the Bluenose club. My recollection of those filler blocks is that I traced the cross sections from the plans onto the sides and end of the blocks and removed the excess material with a coping saw, then glued them in place and finished shaping them as part of the bulkhead fairing process. Of course this all happened 12 years ago, so there is no guarantee that is exactly how it went down. My advice is to take a deep breath, take your time and work the excess away slowly. And always remember - it is wood, if things get too bad, you can always remove what you've done and start over with new filler blocks Bob

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