Craigie65

Build Log Index
Date: 24/07/2024
Time worked today: 2 hours.
Total time spent on build: 19 hours.
 
Sanding the Hull After 1st Planking
I started using a mouse sander with 80 grit sandpaper. I then switched to using 120 grit sandpaper (by hand) and 600 grit sanding sticks. During the sanding process there were a few areas where I needed to add some filler. The method I used to fill the depressions is as follows.
 
Add a lump of wood filler to the centre of the area to be filled.

Use a wooden tooth pick (or similar) to spread the wood filler by rolling it back and forth.

 After a few rolls back and forth the depressions was filled and the excess wood filler is on the tooth pick..

 Once the filler had cured it can sanded smooth. The end result is there is no longer any sign of the depression.

I then checked how the second planking would look at the stern area. I started with fitting the main keel (aft) along with some 1mm planks to simulate the outer keel patterns. A small piece of the second plank material was then test fitted. As can be seen the second plank looks to be reasonably flush with the keel. There is a bit of wood filler that still required to be sanded.

 I then repeated the process with the stern post fitted.

 Next I test fitted the rear stern counter patterns. I was really pleased with how these look.

 After these are fitted I noted that there will be a bit of sanding required to ensure the stern post fits flush.

 The hull now looks and feels nice and smooth and is now ready for the next stage of the build upon my return from holiday.

Apologies that this build log didn't get completed properly. However I've completed (for me) Trial today. Compared to many of you it's amateurish but I've enjoyed what I've done and I'm pleased with my improvement over the last kit. Summer brings more swimming, snorkelling and horse riding but Nisha should be along shortly and I'm sure another log of one length or another. Thanks for all your comments along the way, always appreciated.
 

 

 

 

 

 

Good job, I think serving makes a very noticeable difference.

Thanks everyone for the likes and comments.
 
As something of a partial diversion I have assembled and started to experiment with Chuck's Servo-o-matic that I got months ago.  Just used up some old threads for practice first, then served some line for block strops and did a few for the bowsprit.  For the bowsprit I have not used the PE spider plate, but gone more with, as I have mentioned before, the Cutter chapter in Lennarth Petersson's Rigging Period Fore & Aft Craft, and as such have added blocks for the Topsail and main yard braces and Topsail yard bowline thimble blocks.  Eyelets at the tip are set into a white metal ring, I also replaced the thin PE bowsprit securing iron with copper wire flattened and shaped to suit.
 
The last picture shows the main mast and boom just dry fit for a quick preview at how she will look later, all for now.
 

Me too! Great enhancement

Last one for today.
 
Bitts
These need no explanation. They'll also be painted red before fitting to the hull.


 
 
Grates
I'm only showing one unit being built here as they all follow the same pattern, including the coaming that accepts the ladder to access the lower deck. These coamings have curved tops, and are identical in shape to those on the shipyard plans. First, we have to glue the curved top parts into place on the body.


 
I now soak all the tops and wrap around a tin until thoroughly dry. The centres are also temporarily left in place to add strength and make it easier to neatly and evenly sand the tops of the assemblies.


 
 
After sanding the units so they are smooth, the coamings can be painted black. Note that this unit has another curved part. This is where the stove chimney will protrude.




 
Until next time...
 

Great details, really like the new curved gratings. 

Gallows
There are two of these, slightly different. The head bar is composed of three parts which build up to make a unit which is recessed centrally to accept the vertical posts. 



 
 
Skylight
This is very similar to skylights on some other VM kits. The photos are self-explanatory.



 
Wheel
And again, the construction of the wheel unit is identical to some other VM kits. This is centred on a drum unit which is sandwiched between the main posts, along with a photo etch wheel which is built from six parts before priming and painting in a brown colour.



 
Winch
As with the bitts and gallows, this is painted red before assembly, and the 3D printed drums are painted brown. The side parts need to sit in the deck slots so the unit is properly spaced when assembled. 



 
More in a very short while. 

Build Log Index
Date: 20/07/2024
Time worked today: 1 hour.
Total time spent on build: 11 hours.
 
How Not To Fit A Stealer
I was planning to detail how I fitted a stealer. Halfway through the process I had a brain fart and made a schoolboy error.
 
As I ran the next plank lower plank I felt the natural flow of the plank is as shown in the photo below and will require a stealer to fill the gap. The plan was to make a stealer as shown by the red outline. The yellow left-hand arrow shows where the stealer will sit over a bulkhead and will be 2.5mm wide (half a plank width). The yellow right-hand arrow shows the stern post area where the gap is a full plank width gap (5mm).
 I carefully marked the plank and the stealer. So far so good.

 After making the stealer I was happy with how it interlocked with the plank, before fitting. I did not notice my error.

 I was really pleased with how it looked once the plank and stealer were glued in place. The more eagle eyed of you will notice my brain fart.

 I was also not very happy with how the lower bow planking looked, as left and right lower planks are not nicely aligned.

 Thankfully the stealer brain fart and misaligned bow planking is not an issue with the build once the 2nd planking and hull planking is completed. 

Build Log Index
 
Date: 19/07/2024 to 20/07/2024
Time worked: 2 hours.
Total time spent on build: 10 hours.
 
Start of First Planking
I took some measurements between bulwark and master plank which are listed in the table below.
 
Location
Length
Plank Width
Bow
30mm
2.5mm
Bulkhead 1
48mm
4.0mm
Bulkhead 2
52mm
4.3mm
Bulkhead 3
55mm
4.5mm
Bulkhead 4
57mm
4.7mm
Bulkhead 5
57mm
4.7mm
Bulkhead 6
58mm
4.8mm
Bulkhead 7
58mm
4.8mm
Bulkhead 8
58mm
4.8mm
Bulkhead 9
58mm
4.8mm
Bulkhead 10
58mm
4.8mm
Bulkhead 11
56mm
4.7mm
Bulkhead 12
55mm
4.5mm
Bulkhead 13
52mm
4.3mm
Bulkhead 14
54mm
4.5mm
Bulkhead 15
55mm
4.5mm
Stern
60mm
5.0mm
 
Based on the above information then, at the midship area, 11 x 5mm planks required to fill the gap, together with a final 3mm plank to close the gap. The planks will require a taper toward the bow down to 2.5mm.
 
Although the planks may require some tapering toward the stern I will let the planks run as natural as possible and will then trim / fit steelers as necessary.
 
I started by making a test plank for the bow area. This was done to check the plank taper and hull fairing. I followed the advice in the build manual and soaked the plank in warm water for a few minutes before cutting the taper into the plank.

 The tapered test plank is a good fit around the bow. I am happy that the hull fairing is correct and that the taper is also correct.

I then used a paper template to show the bulkhead positions and required width on the planks for the required taper. Using my digital vernier calipers I transferred the taper measurements to the planks. I then used a ruler and sharp pencil to draw the required cut line on both planks.

I am tapering and fitting the planks in pairs (left and right) so both sides should look the same. This should also prevent any possible twisting/warping of the frames and keel as the glue cures.

In the two photos below the top plank has been glued and pinned to the hull. The second plank has been shaped and they are test fitted / clamped to the hull and will now be left for a while to allow the planks to dry out and retain the shape around the bow before they are glued in place.

Build Log Index
Date: 18/07/2024
Time worked today: 0.5 hour.
Total time spent on build: 8 hours.
 
24-Pound Cannons
There are 2 off 24-pound cannons to assemble. After I had removed the laser char from all the wooden parts I glued both left-hand carriage sides to their respective carriage front and rear axles.

 I then applied a coat of varnish to all the wooden parts and once the varnish had dried two coats of red and black paint were brushed on to all the carriage parts, excluding all the wheels.

 Once the paint had dried the right-hand carriage sides were glued in place, noting the 24-pound cannon also had to be fitted at this stage.

It was then a case off adding the wheels. With a length of copper bar temporarily inserted the carriage stool bed and quoin were also added. The various eyebolts and copper bar will be added later on, when I am ready to chemically blacken them along with other PE parts.

 To complete this post the 24-pound cannons were placed on the sub-deck for a photo opportunity.

Glenn you haven't wasted any time getting rolling on this one.

Build Log Index
 
First Planking – Fitting The Master Plank
Date: 18/07/2024
Time worked today: 1.5 hour.
Total time spent on build: 7.5 hours.
 
Master Plank
I am following the recommendation in the build manual to fit the lowest (master) plank first.
 
I started by shaping the bow end of each plank. The aim, when fitted, is that these planks will follow the curve of the bow. In the photo below I have prepared the initial shaping of the master planks. They will now be soaked in some hot water before using my heated plank bended. I did mark the start point for the bend on these planks, as indicated by the yellow arrow.

 While the master planks were soaking in the hot water for a few minutes I did a test fit of the main keel and main keel (aft) parts.

 After the initial bending of the bow end of the master plank they was test fitted. As can be seen in the following photo, they were both a reasonable fit, however I will need to sand a small area, as indicated by the arrow.

 Using some Amati clips the master plank was test fitted along the entire length of the hull with the main keel and main keel (aft) dry fitted. This is to make sure there were no areas on the hull which would require more fairing.

 Using a spare piece of planking material the outer main keel pattern was simulated. As can be seen the master plank fits perfectly with the outer pattern. This means that the first planking will require some sanding to reduce the thickness so that the second planking will sit flush with the outer keel pattern.

 After sanding the master plank bow shape a little bit more I was much happier with the fit. Both master planks were then glued in place. For the most part I used Amati clamps to hold the planks in place but used a few pins where necessary.

 After the glue had had time to cure the Amati clamps were removed. I was happy with the bow area.

 The main keel and main keel (aft) were once again dry fitted and I was happy with how the master planks look.

 To complete this post I have added a photo showing how the bulwarks are nicely aligned with the sub deck.

I know that painting, it was that what inspired me to do Harpy plus I love the name, from this book (Highly recommended):
 

 
Regarding the paint scheme, I will suggest the usual red for inner bulwarks and cannon carriages, black for main wale (of course) and gunwale. Sides can be painted yellow ochre or, as I want for the prototype model, varnished, purely for aesthetic reasons.
 
Like Speedy, I have little doubt she was daubed in all kinds of colours during her long career, so it is entirely up to the modeller what they want to do with the colour scheme.
 
I did try to join that Kent History site, but I was presented with a lot of crazy questions about Kent in order to join, which I hadn’t the foggiest clue how to answer…..
 

Looking very good as expected Jim and Chris!  
 
There is a good reference for Harpy on the Kent History forum, with a contemporary painting of her and Fairy engaging Pallas in 1800.  Depending on how much accuracy you can attach to this painting, Fairy and Harpy look quite dark, perhaps unpainted except the standard black wale and below, compared to Pallas. Given Harpy had such a long career, she no doubt sported many colour schemes during her time.
 
https://kenthistoryforum.com/index.php?topic=120.0

The same site has good background information on most of the Acute class gun brigs (Adder) if interested. 
 
Looking forward to the next instalment! 😁

Building these models rarely means that anything is built in chronological order. I need to best use my time to do other tasks while I'm doing some of the much earlier work. This has been the case for Harpy. Since the last work, I was unable to do anything with any significant sanding work due to HMS Indefatigable still occupying most of my workspace. Thankfully, this weekend, Indy has been moved to her shipping crate, pending her journey to her new home in Scotland. 
 

 
 
So while Indy was still outstaying her welcome in my workshop, I've started to build a multitude of other things. Here are just three of the items I've been working on in that time.....the carronades, cannon, and companionway. These guns build in exactly the same way as those on previous models. The companionway is a little different and looks very nice with her inlaid panels. The lid is just tacked on while the PE is primed and painted. Not sure if I should paint the companionway yet, or leave in varnish. 
 















 
Ok, time for TV...

Well hull basically done. Hammock netting will go in at the very end as I always bend/break them while I am doing the rigging.
 I also put some tackle on the carronades and fully rigged the 24 pounders (a real pain , fortunately only 2. Use 2.5 mm double and 2 mm single blocks).
 

 
 
 
Here is Adder's smasher next to the maindeck ones on Indy

 
And 24 pounder here compared to Sherbournes's main guns
 
 

Build Log Index
 
Fairing The Hull
Date: 14/07/2024
Time worked today: 2 hours 10 minutes.
Total time spent on build: 5 hour.
 
There are quite a few photos attached to this post and in addition to fairing the hull this post will also cover work related to the catheads, ladders, rudder stern post and prow.
 
I decided I would make a start on some of the deck items and assembled both the catheads and ladders. I also assembled the rudder / stern post and rudder. There is a locating peg to ensure the outer patterns for the rudder / stern are properly aligned. I used some brass pins in the hinge holes to ensure the outer patterns for the rudder were correctly aligned. I did make sure t remove the laser char, where appropriate from these assembled items.
 

 
The tabs on the keel support jig were then cut and the excess tab material removed from the hull.
 

 
In preparation for the fairing I took the advice in the build manual and wrapped some sandpaper (120 grit) around a length of scrap 0.8mm material
 

 
I took my time and faired one side of the hull.
 

 
Using some spare 0.8mm material to represent the bulwark a check was made on how the fairing looked. I was really pleased with the flow of the test material and there is good full contact on all the bulkheads and bow frames.
 

 
I used a thin sanding stick to check the flow of the stern section which also looked good.
 

 
It was then a case of repeating the process on the other side of the hull.
 

 
Next the prow assembly was test fitted and there was allround good contact with the keel.
 

 
After the leading edges of the prow bolsters were chamfered the prow assembly was glued in place.
 

 
The final task of the day was to test fit both the port and starboard bulwarks. I started with positioning the bulwarks at the stern end and using the guide lines provided started to clamp them in position. Everything was lining up perfectly.

 
As I started to bend the bulwarks around the bow area I felt there was too much resistance and feared they may snap in two. I think it will be better to soak them in some hot water for 30 minutes and them to clamp them in place, leaving the bulwarks to fully dry out. As indicated in the build manual this may take several dry fits before they are ready to be glued in place.

 

Hi Glenn, I glad my log is of some use! I’m really enjoying building this one although I’ve slowed down as I’m rigging and making yards and spars, which for me is slow going. Adder should be an easy build for you after Indy, Eck’s racing through his build. Yours looks great, I look forward to following along. Best wishes Dan 

Build Log Index
 
Hull Construction Part 2
Date: 12/07/2024
Time worked today: 30 minutes.
Total time spent on build: 1 hour 20 minutes.
 
I was able to be spend 30 mins in the shipyard this morning before the arrival of one of our young grandsons and was pleased with the progress I was able to make.
 
I started by locating and installing the capstan support board and 4 off deck camber beams (aft). After an initial trial fit they were glued in place.

 
Next the 2 off deck camber beams (mid) were dry fitted and then glued in place.

 
The 2 off foremast support checks were the next parts that were dry fitted and then glued in place.

 
Next the 2 off bow frames (lower horizontal) and the 2 off bow frames (upper horizontal) bow frames were dry fitted. My initial impression was they were a good fit.

On a closer examination of the dry fit there is still a little bit of adjustment work required as the parts do not fully engage. I need to adjust all the longer tabs, which butt up against bulkhead 2. I could accept the fit knowing this will not be an issue once the bow area has been properly faired but I will ensure I have a better fit before gluing these parts in place. I have also dry fitted the various bow ‘cant’ frames (vertical) and they all seem to be a good fit.

 
Finally, I did a test fit of the sub deck and, as @DB789 (Dan) noted in his build log, there is a small overhang of the sub deck which needs trimming, as can be seen in the next photo. It will be easier to trim the sub deck before installation.

I’m in.  This one is in my stash.

I’m in.  This one is in my stash.

Many thanks to everyone who has followed, commented and liked my posts for this build log. I have really enjoyed building the Indy. It is an awesome kit.

My next project will be the HM Brig Adder which I am really looking forward to start building once the kit arrives, hopefully later this week!
 
I have taken a selection of some good photo's and some not so good photo's of my completed model.

Lovely build, congratulations!

Lovely build, congratulations!