dnputnam

Here are some notes from internet;
asphalt must be applied in thin layers .
It is not recommended in thick application (dry to hard).
Not recommended with linseed oil, the reaction with linseed oil induces at long term crack and separation.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 44 –Inboard members continued, Stern fairing and half-frame bolting.
 
Work continued on the iron strapping with some breaks to work on other things.  Other things included installing wood members over the strapped areas.  In the first picture a portion of the lower deck clamp is being glued to the frames.
 

 
The forward section of the upper deck clamp has been installed at the top of the strapped area.  As soon as the clamps are removed when the glue has dried, these members are immediately bolted through the frames with copper wire bolts epoxied all the way through the hole, making an extremely strong connection.
 
In the next picture a section of bilge ceiling is being installed.  These heavy members will fill the area up to the lower deck clamp.
 

 
There will also be a few strakes of bilge ceiling below the installed strakes.  The iron strapping will also be extended down to the floor heads.  The next picture shows one of these extensions.  The break in these straps will occur behind frames and will not be visible.
 
The next picture shows additional deck clamp sections installed, including forward sections of the middle deck clamp.
 

 
All these members are epoxy bolted as described above. 
 
Before progressing much further aft with the iron strapping, I wanted to get the aft half-frames bolted securely.  They have been held in place since installation only by the end-grain glue joints.  I did not want to risk breaking these with the hammering of the strap rivets.  Before installing bolts on these frames they needed to be faired.  This is easier before the copper bolts are in place.
 
In the next picture 80-grit sandpaper is being used on the feet of the cant frames to bring them flush with the deadwood.
 

 
In the next picture all of the cant and half frames have been faired at their feet. The cant frames, in their scores, end right at the bearding line line.  However, the half-frames are not installed in scores but bolted directly to the deadwood.  These were not faired to a feather edge at the line but were cut back to about a 3” thickness above the line.  The triangular gap was covered with planking.  It acted as a limber, or drainage channel, for water that would otherwise accumulate between frames and in the joints between the frames and the deadwood.  This feature was evidently not included at the feet of the cant frames. 
 
The next picture shows the feet of the half-frames being squared off above the bearding line.
 

 
There will be more to say later about the path of this water to the pumps.
 
With the model inverted it was a good time to fair the deadwood back to the rabbets in the keel and sternpost.  The next picture shows a shallow gouge being used to rough out the shape above the keel rabbet.
 

 
This can be risky if not done carefully.  In the picture the curl of shaving shows that the gouge is moving parallel to the keel using the pressure of my thumb.  I find that cuts go easier at an angle to the edge, slicing the wood -  and it is never a good idea to cut toward the rabbet.  The gouge is moving in the same direction in the next picture – held as in the last picture with the left hand, in this case pulled gently with the right – always with very light cuts.  Do not attempt this with a dull tool.
 

 
In the next picture a #0 cut riffler is being used to smooth out the gouge marks.  This was followed by 120 then 220-grit paper.
 

 
The last picture shows the feet of the half and cant frames after the sanding.
 
 
 
With the final lines of the frame bottoms established the bolt holes were laid out and drilled.  These are now ready for the bolts.
 
There is a lot more sanding to be done on the lower hull, but this much was sufficient to get the bolts in.  Now for the other side.
 
 Ed

Thanks guys. Druxey, actually the drawers are made with half blind dovetails
 
For the utensils I thought to just borrow the admiral's but somehow they don't fit.....
 

 
Well a scaled down version then.... I leave it up to you to guess how I made these...
 

 

 
Enough playing around let's get back to the serious stuff (but maybe next build a doll house?)
 
Remco

Build log part 13
 
 

plated right down to keel
 

welldeck bulwarks mounted and plated
 

highdeck wake protection spoilers
 

Looks quite OK so far
 

bow with fitted water stay fastening points
 

the original Laeisz paint scheme finds its Revival
 

here the anchor Points for shrouds and backstays are prolonged from welldeck upwards through the pinracks
 
 

portholes not fitted yet
 
 

have to get used to the new colours in my Hobby room
 

so far, so good...
 
 
 
 
Build log part 14 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 12
 
 
 

Bulwarks on the high deck mounted and also plated
 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Bow area plating
 

for plating keel and bottom Areas the ship is removed from the stand
 

and placed back on it again afterwards
 
 
 
Build log part 13 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 18
 
 
 

eletric Motor cooling ribs made from a small gear pinion
 

one can already imagine how "crowded" the deck became after the changes in 1951
 
 

 
 

 

set of winches (the three hoisting / lowering wormgear winches to verticaly move the Yards follow a bit later on)
 

 

here the tanks for cold fresh water and warm water with connected discharge pipes
 

poopdeck tanks painted
 
 

Forward welldeck Davit bearings, pantry`s watertank and compas platform mounted
 
 

Nav. light Towers that go to the forecastle deck
 
 
Build log part 19 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 17
 
 
 
time to do some winches in scale 1:96
 
 
 
 

some further painting work done
 

first prototype of the four electric Motor driven gear-winches (equipped since 1951)
 

These brass Frames shall be turned into the 3 Jarvis bracing 6-drum-winches
 

size of two fingers breadth
 

a few days later...
 

 
 

complete Manual operated bracing winch
 

checking space requirements for the winches
 

the poopdeck brace winch has to be shifted to the aft a bit, in order to place 2 watertanks in front of it. For doing so the two small vents also have to be moved a bit
 

This one fits well
 
 
Build log part 18 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 16
 
 
This is just a reminder :
In order to avoid anyone in thinking that this build is "online"...., as I already pointed out in my intoduction, the ship is already complete, and put into my Album in Topic "Gallery of completed scratch built models" (the actual building time was full 2 years).
I am gladly postsharing these documented build log sequences with all those mates who are interested in this Tallship and its build
 
Nils
 
 

set auf hatches with removeable covers
 

Hatchcover with hoisting-eyelets
 

some white paint put on
 
 

nearly time to start doing the boats
 

 
 

 

 

upper portions of bow- and highdeck bulwarks paited black
 

The electric powered winches for Position checking
 

 
 
Build log Part 17 to follow...
 
Nils

Build log part 15
 
 
 

portholes not inserted yet
 

portholes not inserted yet
 

 
 

portholes attached
 

working on the catwalks
 

here can be seen how the hight adjustable supports are fixed
 

ready for soldering
 

soldering started, hatch #2 rims (before the highdeck bulkhead)position check
 

the same with hatch #3 (after the highdeck bulkhead)
 

hatch rim
 
 
 
 
Build log part 16 to follow.....
 
Nils

Build log part 14
 
 
 
 

bow bulwark done before painting it
 

after paint touchups
 

Fitting supports for the aft boatracks
 

 
 

bow decor
 

aft decor
 

Bow views
 

 

replacing dummy catwalks with metal ones
 

aft welldeck deckhouse with supports
 
 
 
Build log part 15 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 22
 
 
 

I should have trimmed the topgallant platform a bit more neatly, or should not have brought this pic..
 

here the roller in the mast can be seen
 

the diate coke just came Handy...
 

I find working in metal Comes easier than with Wood for mast rigging
 

 

 

again one of those Little scetches of mine that accompany through the build, and where I bring my thoughts to paper before the semi metal is cut.., there remains enough for the bin anyhow
I think I should post a couple of samples for These scetches for those who are interested in these
 
 

Looks like I must have a brass-mine somewhere
 

raw Yard with its rack is attached to the mast, that Little string is only a preliminary hold
 
 
 
 
Build log part 23 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 21
 
 
 

most of the mainmast-work can be done tripple wise
 

 
 

 

 

 

These are the slide shoes for mounting the yardracks to (enabling 3D movement of the Yards)
 

all soldering is done with the gastourch here in order to have sufficient heat
 

These eyelets have to be soldered ver thorrowly, due to the tensile stresses of the stays
 

all elevations and distances in hight have to be crosschecked several times in order to get the sails later rigged in the appropriate hoisted and / lowered position
 

mars top
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 22 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 20
 
 
here starts some of the work on masts, Yards,bow sprit, bumpkins, made of brass, etc...
all These parts of the actual Pamir were hollow steel tubes made from round bent and riveted steel plates
 
 
 

starting with the fourth (mizzen) mast
 

the third main mast (tapering by shafting different diam. tubes), Topgallant platform
 

lower mars top platform
 

the oval breakthrough in the mast, below the topgallant platform takes the rollerwheel for the Yard hoist chain
 

the vertical moveable yardracks are later mounted to These slide shoe devices (movable Yards)
 

there are 3 vertical moveable Yards on each mainmast, the other three are only swivable, fixed to horizontal and tiltable movement
 
 

 

 

 

Basic fastening anchoring for the lower top shrouds. Started to attach the hundreds of eyelets by soldering to their required positions
 
 
 
 
Build log part 21 to follow
 
 
Nils

Build log part 19
 
 
 

time to think about the booat cradles
 

Navigation light Towers mounted
 

the rear Davits (front boat Davit) are mounted to the highdeck bulkhead and go through the welldeck pinrack
 

looking foreward from above view
 

here come the self braking wormgear winches for Yard hoisting and lowering
 

 
 

 
 

six of those wormgear required, here handwheels mounted, the wormshaft made from a screw with the same pitch as the toothwheel has. Gear reduction 40:1
 

again the three Jarvis winches
 

and the Motor winches
 
 
I shall probably post the work beginning with the masts and Yards next....
 
 
 
Build log part 20 to follow

Build log part 23
 
 
 

some more impressions on the mast work
 

 

 

 

soldering the jackstays to the jib boom
 

 
 

some paint to the masts and beginning with the upper shrouds
 

 
 

some of the Yards tackled with blocks
 

Yard rack and bearing device
 
 
 
Build log part 24 to follow.....
 
Nils

Here is how i am going about building frame 17 bulkhead... I traced out the contour from the plans with tracing paper, then taped the cut out to card stock paper... i can adjust the fit with the paper, then build up the bulkhead ...and if all goes will it will fit. 

Hello everybody....
Progress has been a bit slow from here. I have pretty much finished the ceiling in the forecastle (aka fo'c'sle) and the storage hold. next is the cabin, this morning installed the deck beam at # 17 frame. from here I will build the bulkhead for the cabin. I have decided to paint the ceiling and deck beams white.This seemed to be the common practice,plus it will brighten it up when you look inside.

Thank you Druxey, Alex, Max.
 
More doors, more bulkheads make up the carpenters store room and the carpenters cabin. 
 

 

 

 
There's also one between the bitts creating a small workspace for the cook. Let's see what I can do with that, I think a big cupboard makes sense.
 

 

 

 
Remco
 

Okay, after reworking the top of the deck slats they are now looking more like slightly weathered teak and as mentioned above, the Admiral likes it very much.  Soooohhhh, I continued cementing the rest of the slats to finish the aft deck.  There is still need for a few touch-ups here and there but overall it doesn't look half bad.
I invite all yuns to give me your thoughts on it, and don't be polite     I can always rip them off and go the boxwood route.
 
Here are the pics I took at 17:00 hours when I punched out of the dockyard for a much needed libation, a cool glass of belgian ale   
 

 

 
Cheers,

Vivian,
Skills only come with practice, but  I am telling you, Plans are the key to open this treasure.
If you want the most detailed plans available, Jean Boudriot is the man. Not only he will provide the good information, but he will do ALL the research for you.
If you want plans with methods on how to do it David Antscherl is the man.
With the coming of Internet, you have now Forums where many peoples to help you.
With organism as Nautical Research Guild you can now have your own private mentor.
For wood planking, Hobby millusa.com can provide all the precut wood you need, this means no big power tools to buy.
For the tools, the main reason I use a lot of tools is just to go faster. Many tools make the work easier to do, but they are not absolutely essentials. You cannot buy all the tools you could dream the first year you begin to make model ship. To get tools is a long process, before to buy a tool you have to need it and you have to know that it exists then you need the money to buy it.  
At the end, you chose the way you prefer kit or scratch, but kit or scratch need time to learn the way, the first scratch will always be difficult, but the learning curve will be much faster.
When you like to build with your hands, you find the time to do it and for a young person like you, there is still plenty of time in front of you.  

Vivian and David,
Kit is not an oblige way to begin in this hobby.
The first important points are the plans.
Kits are not so far from scratch.
Planking a kit or planking a scratch is the samething,
the difference is just that one has more details than the other.

Thanks Gino for the explanation, sources and the link.  I also did some reading via the web, quite interesting stuff.
 
All y'all may have been wondering why no updates in a few days   Well, I had to do some yard work and spend only the mornings in the shipyard    I have been cementing those crappy deck slats to the boat.  I started with the aft end thinking it would be the easiest part with fewer hatches.  I can only cement a few per day so the progress is quite slow.  This is all very tedious work making sure each slat is parallel to the centerline and 1 mm apart.  Needless to say that I had to reposition a few after eyeballing it and using a straightedge but overall they run nice and straight..  As far as that's concerned I'm quite happy with it.
Also, the dye I'm using decides to stain the slats unevenly, even though the wood is from the same board, go figure.  I'll finish the aft end first and then see if I can sand the top of the slats and carefully apply another coat of dye to even it all out.  If not - - - then I'll have to remove all the slats and get a few boards of cherry from Jeff but that'll bring me into May to continue with this project.
Tomorrow morning I'll try the sanding and dye touch up thing first before continuing to see of I can match the lighter brown colors.  If that works then I may just proceed with the decking.  If not - - - rip it all off.
 
Bottom line is, I'm not happy with the way it looks, too blotchy.  Below is a picture I took late this afternoon today.  It's not quite done yet but at least you can see what I'm talking about.  Of course we can say that they have weathered with the salt spray and sun but this model is to represent the boat as she was in June of 1939 when my father sailed on her to the Dutch East Indies.  Not much time to weather the deck or the boat.
One consolation is that I can still do a lot of other detail work IF I have to go and buy some wood from Jef.
 

Aft of the to be painted emergency telephone is completed.  At first glance there are a few apparent bare spots but there are tracks for the dolly and a few hatches.  Space must be made for the hatch hinges, the tracks have a curve and the deck slats must run parallel with the centerline.  This will cause the slats to hit the tracks with an angle and cannot abut the tracks on the inside, there must be enough space for the dolly wheels.  This will become quite noticeable when it's all done.  
 
Cheers,  

Thank you Mark, John, Druxey and Pat. The puns are flying thick and fast today . Thanks also to all those who have been using the "Like" button.
 
Main Studding Sail Boom Irons
 
There are two pieces of ironwork attached to each main channel. One of these is an Eyestrap, into which a pin on the inboard end of the Main Studding Sail fits allowing it to swing out. The other (aft) one is a Gooseneck which holds the outboard end of the boom when it is stowed.
 
I made these from 1mm thick brass strip. Both pieces taper in width and thickness on the inboard ends. I drilled three holes in each piece for the "bolts", which are made from brass pins silver soldered to the straps and the heads filed square.
 

 

 
The gooseneck part was silver soldered to the arm, as it needed a very sharp bend which wasn't possible to do. I trimmed the brass nails to the thickness of the channel :
 

 

 
The pieces fitted after cleaning up and blackening :
 

 

 
  Danny

Fenders
 
The Fenders assist in loading the ship, especially from a boat. Barrels could be more easily loaded as the fenders make a smooth run over the rails below :
 

 

 
Unlike the Chesstrees I fitted earlier, the fenders don't play any part of the rigging so I'm only fitting them to the Port side.
 
  Danny

Build log part 11
 
 
 
 

fixed a spring loaded steering chord strummer, adjustable spanning device
 

the steering (tin galvanized steel chords) come down from aft the highdeck and are guided over the aft welldeck, through the first two Bulkheads of the poopdeck, to where the spring is attached
 

in the Center keel "spine" (in Picture starbord of the spring) the 8,5mm hole-notch for taking up the 3rd mast safely, can be seen
 

the steering device leads into the highdeck wheelhouse in covered square protections
 

and is guided on along the aft welldeck
 

These are the two Long vents, they are still removeable and swivilable like all vents
 

somehow the Pamir Needs to steer, so here Comes the Balance type rudderblade
 

a Little riveting to it.....
 

and here now starts the riveting and plating of the hull
more to that in the next log part
 

for those of you who had already watched the plating of my steamship "Heinrich Kayser" one would say.... as usual..
 
 
 
Build part 12 to follow....
 
Nils