JanV
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JanV reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
The main topsail was the last sail to mount. As most of the sails, I had inserted copper wires to give the sail curves, to simulate wind. Without the sheet lines to the yard below, the curvature is actually too much. Attaching to the yards results in a nice wind-like appearance. The sheet lines, from the topsail through the violin block to below had to have a lot of tension to bent the sails close to the yard.
With the topsail installed, I could also fixate the lower yard and then hoist the bunt lines and clue lines to have the main sail semi-folded. My attempt was to simulate the Vasa Museum 1:10 model, but my sails are of too thick and stiff fabric to have the sail hang like that. But I am happy with the result anyway.
Meanwhile also installed the bowlines of the main mast sails and also the sheet lines of the lower sails.
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JanV reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
I added lines/coils/ropes to the belaying pins, using the pin method. First the rope a few turns around the pins, under 90 degrees angle, and then made some turn-arounds to tye the rope together. I used a needle underneath to have some space under the ropes to pull the ropes underneath.
It makes the appearance of the belaying pins much better, but it is also a pity that this hides the 'real' belaying knots..
Also a picture of the deck, with the coiled ropes, from the sheet lines of the lower sails, on deck.
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JanV reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Made and installed the anchor buoys, from wood and rope.
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JanV reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
I have been attaching the sails to the yards, including most of the blocks. This so that it is easier once the yards&sails are attached to the masts.
The sequence of installing yards&sails is a matter of choice, but I decided to start with the mizzen mast, because it is more or less standing on its own.
I made the mizzensail to have eyelids from rope, to install the bunt lines, before adding the sail to the yard. The mizzensail is attached to the mast including the parrel, which is with a block leading to a ring at the base of the mast.
The spider part at the top of the mizzen yard was made from one continuous rope, because I milled some space beneath it, so that the tension is always divided among all lines.
The hailard, the parrel-rope (tye) and the line coming from the spider-part are all attached to (three) rings at the base of the mast.
The ropes at the belaying pins and on the deck still need to be wound up, but I save that until I have attached more sails.
At present, I have not fixed the knots with diluted glue, so that I can adjust tension later on.
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JanV got a reaction from FrankWouts in Royal Louis 1780 by Ulises Victoria - FINISHED - Mamoli - Scale 1/90 - French 126-gun ship
start is there Ulises, I think you have to move to an other room in your house.
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JanV reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
I have installed the first sail. Before installing on the ship itself, I had attached the sails to the yard and also some of the blocks.
I have started with the topsail of the bowsprit. This area includes a lot of lines and thus a lot of checking for the appropiate connections of ropes and blockes and belaying pins. I had made the parrel from wooden strips and some brown plastic beads.
The wires inside the seams of the sail make that it falls nicely and with some curve.
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JanV reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Next step in making the sails was attaching the bolt-ropes, including the eyes at the corners of the sails. The eyes at the top of the sails, made by sewing the 'left-over' part to the sail. Originally, this should be done by splicing, but this was too difficult for me.
A time-consuming part, because it was all handwork, whereas the previous step of the sails was with the sewing machine...
The lower sail of the main mast does not have the shaping wires in the seams, because I intend to have this one furled up, like the 1:10 model in the Vasa Museum.
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JanV reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
With the masts in place, I noticed that the stand that was provided with the kit is not very stable, because the center of gravity is now higher with the mass of the masts.
Therefore, I decided to make a new stand.
I had some old solid wood that I had kept which was dark with some wood stain, but with sanding it became light colored again. I had cut some paper to match approximately the shape of the hull at the places where I wanted to have the hull resting on the stand. I made the shapes in the wood using a band saw, followed by more detailed sanding to fit the shape.
In order to have the stand and the ship attached for the cases that I want to place it somewhere else, I have added some additional wood blocks in between and these wood blocks are equipped with two holes: one to fit a rod in to fix it to the hull/keel of the ship and the lower holes are prepared so that the stand can be fixated into a display cabinet, lateron. It was quite some effort to align the holes in the stand with matching holes in the keel...
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JanV reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
I am now busy with the futtock shrouds.
I have first attached a copper rod (1 mm diameter) beneath all platforms, such that the futtock shrouds are approximately vertical. I had first patinized the copper rods. I knotted each shroud to the rods, using a rolling hitch.
The futtock shrouds are then attached with a hook to the metal rods from the deadeyes connections beneath the platforms. I used a buntline hitch to attach the ropes to the hooks.
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JanV reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
I have now reached the maximum height of the model, because I have now also installed the two remaining top sections.
At the bowsprit section, I have now also made the stays from the bowsprit mast to the forestay. Before attached these 12 lines, I had first put some extra tension on the stay. With the stays higher on the foremast, there had been some loss of tension.
With the additional 12 lines, the stay does curl upwards. I think this is difficult to avoid. I assume that this can be prevented by putting even more tension on the stay from the foremast to the bowsprit, but I also do not want to risk putting too much tension on the bowsprit itself... Balance - Balance...
I have attached the 12 lines using the 'rolling hitch 2', Ashley knot number 1735.
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JanV reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
My photos from post #42 (in 2013), that are not visible anymore in the original post nr 42.
This was about that I had finally decided to add nails into the hull.
And the small side window, that I had added.
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JanV reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
I have finalized the main mast itself, by making seizings around it. In most other builds, I see that brown/white rope is used for this. But I did so in black rope. This seems more logical to me, as this would probably be tarred rope. And in photos of the replica of the Batavia (in Lelystad, Netherlands), I also see black rope here.
Further near the top, I added a thin band of black foil (which I had made at work..) to simulate a metal coil around the main mast. I had seen this in the build-log of md1400s, and it seemed to me a nice addition.
Further, already attached the big block for the stay from the mizzen mast.
And then made and installed the tackles on the main mast. The two tackles are here not the same as on the foremast, because now only one is with violin block and the other with a double block and with two attachments on the whales. The four violin blocks for the foremast and now one violin, I had somewhere in a box. But the sixth, I made myself, from nutwood and it looks actually better than the others..
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JanV reacted to md1400cs in Santisima Trinidad by md1400cs – FINISHED - OcCre - 1/90 - cross-section - bashed
She is looking much more like a ship --
Attached the lower yard.
Need to connect the sling bits - I know that with the jeers, the parrels were not needed - and probably incorrect. As I was installing the
yard I almost removed the parrels - then though they were already mounted and it would be easier to attach the yard. Also they can hardly be seen from the front view - oh well.
I will follow the look of the official kit photo regarding the sails - though might completely furl the topgallant - still 🧐about that - Now onto prepping the upper yard
Here are a few updated images.
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JanV got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Hi Michael,
This is a very nice lantern. It will be a challenge to come close for all other Vasa (Corel) builders😀
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JanV got a reaction from EJ_L in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Hi Michael,
This is a very nice lantern. It will be a challenge to come close for all other Vasa (Corel) builders😀
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JanV got a reaction from md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Hi Michael,
This is a very nice lantern. It will be a challenge to come close for all other Vasa (Corel) builders😀
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JanV reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Thanks mates,
Here's one last image (promise) that allows for a better perspective view.
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JanV reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Hi Mates,
So at last I finished up the re-install for that lantern that has been sitting around for a while. Here are a few images to completely put this log to rest.
That Taffrail is really "sad" I was tempted to pull it off before re- installing the new lantern - but - "done here".
Need to finish my Trinidad current build - and then much looking forward to the Viking ship under my table.
That one will be something totally new for me to learn about. Will also keep areas unpanelled and open to show some hull and interior sub deck construction details the vikings used. Attempt to anyway -----
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JanV reacted to RickyGene in Santisima Trinidad by md1400cs – FINISHED - OcCre - 1/90 - cross-section - bashed
I need some pants hemmed!
Rick 😎
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JanV reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Installing the rowboat on deck.
Because the bottom of the boat is not flat, I had to make a small stand for it.
Then installing on deck with rope. First I had attached the block to the ring with rope (picture 3), but the rope was too long, so I decied to install the block with a hook (picture 4). When installing the anchors, I had made this block with hook, so I used this one, although it is larger than the other block. In principle, a block with hook seems more logical, because when the rowboat is used, the rope with hook-block can be easily removed.
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JanV reacted to md1400cs in Santisima Trinidad by md1400cs – FINISHED - OcCre - 1/90 - cross-section - bashed
Update:
Non-soldering solution to Stuns’l Boom Irons, and learning soldering dilemma (mine).
Found this very useful article. Sharing indeed worth a read.
Photos are self explanatory – with some added notes.
Making yard details.HOW TO,pdf copy.pdf
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JanV reacted to md1400cs in Santisima Trinidad by md1400cs – FINISHED - OcCre - 1/90 - cross-section - bashed
Hi Mates,
Done with this section - A few updated pics (apologies regarding photo 8 - but you get the idea -
PS: Not sure about Burton pendants for this ship. Too late in any case.
Cheers,
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JanV reacted to md1400cs in Santisima Trinidad by md1400cs – FINISHED - OcCre - 1/90 - cross-section - bashed
Minor update;
I discovered (previous build) that using black nylon fishing line is an acceptable way of adding “in scale” nails to some needed areas.
Finished up the platform still need to add the ten deadeyes. Now focusing on the lower main mast.
Used the kit provided dowel, but used the kit bibbs only as a template. Again went to the Boudroit’s book for a guide in adding some extra details. Bibbs should be made up of several pieces of lumber. My results are much simpler than what is in his book. (platform not attached - just for a look)
For the cheeks I used pre-scored deck plank sheets. Easier to bend when wet. Now need to see how to properly rope these three cheeks around the mast. Some references have two sets of mast bracing ropes, then cheeks are added above pre-installed ropes and then an outer layer of ropes is added. Hmmm? Need to work that out.
Then on to the mast cap, and other needed blocks.
Regards,
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JanV got a reaction from Bobby in Wasa by fmodajr - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
you are showing us here a high standard of ship modelisme
welcome again in the group of Wasa builders within MSW
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JanV reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
I made meanwhile the mast parts of the main mast.
I used another lathe for the woodturning now. Mostly, because the lower section of the main mast is too large to fit into the mini-lathe. But having used the bigger one, I now prefer this bigger one, because it is more stable. So, I also made the top section of the main mast using the big lathe, from wood that had diameter of 10 mm, whereas the diameter of the finished part is only 5 mm at its widest (the top).
As the main mast is at an angle of about 7%-8%, I made the supporting sections also at a same (counter) angle, so that the platforms will be approximately straight in level.
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