Elia

Hi everyone
 
Thanks for all your Likes and comments!! Greatly appreciated.
 
Well, Symphony's progress has been slow, but I have managed to cut the frames out of cardboard and glue them to the baseboard. I then cut the keel and dry-fitted it to the frames just to see how it all went together. Luckily, it all went pretty smoothly and minimal adjustments were required.
 
There's still heaps of work to go, but, hey, that's part of the fun of it, isn't it?
 
Here are the photos so far.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Hi everyone
 
Many thanks for all your comments and likes!
 
I've made some progress over the weekend. This includes cutting the half hull into sections so that I can get the frame templates. I've also cut the keel as well as a template of the side profile of the whole hull. This week I'll cut out the frames and glue them to the building board.
 
Slow work, but fun!
 
I hope you enjoy the photos.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Hi everyone
 
Many thanks for all your comments and support!
 
Well, my initial intention of using Ticonderoga's hull and adapting it to 'fit' the original boat just didn't work. So, instead, I decided to bite the bullet and carve a half model of the proper hull. The reason why I did this was so that I can get proper frame templates. The half hull consists of slices of wood, lightly glued together and then sanded to shape. Once I'm happy that I've got a nice and shapely hull, I'll then separate the slices to get the exact frame shapes.
 
After that, I'll use those half frames to make full frames for a plank on frame hull. The photos below show the progress so far.
 
I hope this makes sense!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Hi Igor, Dennis and Nils
 
Many thanks for your comments.
 
Igor- I know it sounds confusing, but I originally wanted to build an accurate model of Signe, but I wasn't able to obtain the hull's frames plans. As a consequence, it'll be a bashed combination of Ticonderoga's hull, with Signe's accommodation and sail plan. A bit of a hybrid, I guess. For that reason, I decided to rename the model to Symphony. I hope this makes sense!
 
Dennis - I had started this ship originally, but I put it to one side whilst I concentrated on Rainbow.
 
Nils - thanks for your encouragement. I reckon she'll turn into a really nice model, as well.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

One challenge that I have been working on is the mast hoops for this model. At 1/48 scale, I have been trying to come up with a way to make them small enough to blend into the scale of the model. I need 22 hoops, 11 for both mainsail and foresail.
 
Here is what I came up with. Brass wire is soldered into a loop and the piece cut off with a tail. The piece is then fitted over a dowel that acts as a jig to make sure that the hoop is circular and that it can be filed up with no problem. Once the tail is cut off, the hoop is filed to remove the evidence of the joint and then it is filed all around the outside to make that side somewhat more flat.
 
The last thing will be to chemically tone them with Bluejacket's Brass Brown. Once sewed to the boltrope and in place on the mast, they should look enough like wood at this scale.
 
Russ

I have been working on some metal pieces as well. Here is a shot of the band at the top of the topmast. The entire topmast will be painted white, as will this band.
 
Russ

It has been a while since I had a real update, but it has been busy, both in the shop and out. Work gets in the way, but I have also had several commissions of late, some of which I will bring to your attention in time.
 
Here is a look at the wheel. The close up looks rather nasty, but once it is on the deck it blends in quite well.
 
Russ
 
 

Finally, a long overdue update! I started out well with photos of each step and then as life got busy the photos fell by the way. The last few pictures are of each completed piece without process pictures. 
 
I experimented with a few different materials for the stern lanterns, but finally settled on card. The lanterns could not be solid because of the fiber-optics that I had to feed up through the tiny brass tubing and into the lanterns. This was a very tricky process due to the tight fit and bends. I'll try to add some pictures in the next day or so with the lanterns "lit".
 

 

 

 

 
Some more items completed.
 

 

 

 
And placed on deck. I also completed the first of three sets of spiral staircases.
 

 
I also managed to make and place some of the decorative pieces and dolphins.
 

 
Last, but not least, a shot of the stern so far and profile. 
 

Thank you all for the comments and likes.  Let me try to address the points raised.
 
First, the method was developed to provide a learning experience erecting hull frames as is done on  upright full framed models - like Naiad, Young America and others - but with simpler bulkhead construction. I view this as an early step on the full framed learning curve for beginning scratchbuilders that want to try those more advanced models at some point - but want to work up to it.  Frame alignment - in my experience - is one of the main challenges in full framed upright modeling.  For this reason these methods and this model will be included in the forthcoming Young America book.  Having said that, I believe this is, on its own merits, a very good way to construct a very accurate, strong (very strong) POB hull.
 
To answer your concern, Mike.  Shrinkage is not an issue if seasoned wood - ideally sugar pine - is used for the spacers.  First, the aircraft grade plywood bulkheads are very stable.  The large glue surface between the pacers and the plywood very effectively resists shear stresses that might lead to twisting.  Differential shrinkage over the length of the hull since last summer has opened just two small gaps of less than 1/32" between plywood and spacers.   So the hull has gone through a full cycle of high to low to high humidity.  Delaware Valley summer humidity is very high and last winter was very cold and dry.  No deformation of the hull has occurred over this period.  When added, planking should constrain any further movement.
 
I was concerned about the effects of clamping when gluing - resulting in tighter joints at the top where normal clamps can be used.  The location of the holes for the threaded rod were placed to maximize uniformity of pressure on the joints.  The bulkheads are very parallel to each other.
 
With the glue joints on the flats of the spacers, they are very much stronger than the end glued pieces fitted between bulkheads on many POB models.  
 
The biggest risk to hull twisting is mis-alignment when setting frames - just like on full framing.  The key is to align every frame as it is installed and to keep the hull plumbed throughout the process.
 
Clare, you might say this is similar to lift construction but with vertical lifts.  In a sense this is true,  But the large number of very accurately formed plywood bulkheads makes final shaping and fairing of the hull easy and extremely accurate as will be seen in later posts.  It is true that there are similarities - as will be seen when the bow and stern are shaped.
 
Any new approach carries risks.  I love these questions, because they help  - even if after the fact - test the validity of the process.  Keep them coming.
 
Ed

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 4 – Hold down bolts
 
Some additional structural work needs to be done as the bulkhead erection proceeds.  Nuts for hold down bolts need to be permanently embedded in the structure at three locations.  These were set out on the drawings on odd-numbered frame lines so they would fall midway between plywood bulkheads which are set only at the stations – the even numbered frame lines.  The spine and shipway were drilled at these locations earlier and threaded rods installed as shown below.
 

 
The bolt in this picture is on frame line 9.  The picture was taken before bulkhead 8 was installed (and before the numbers on the patterns were moved toward the center).  The next picture shows this nut encased.
 

 
The nut is encased in the lower of the two hardwood strips glued to the top of the horizontal spacers.  The lower strip is shown in the next picture, before the hole was filed to fit the nut.
 

 
The next picture shows the forward bolt at frame T being encased.
 

 
In this case tow triangular blocks were glued to the spine and the strip encasing the nut is glued to it.  In the next picture the assembly is capped with another fitted block.
 

 
Although each of the three installations of these is slightly different, in every case there is a cap to hold in the nut and to act as a stop when the stud bolt is threaded in.   All the parts are glued to the plywood as well as the side spacers, the assemblies are very strong.
 
Next the mast steps.
 
Ed

Thank you for all the likes, and thank you, Frank, for the question.
 
Once the threaded stud bolts are screwed into the hull - into the spine in this case because the keel assembly has not yet been installed on this model - the model is secured from under the base with nuts.  Without lateral support the hull is vulnerable to damage from side thrusts - especially after the keel is installed.  During hull construction, I normally support the sides with the squares clamped on either side of the shipway to prevent the hull rocking side-to-side.  Later, when permanently mounting the model some other form of permanent lateral support will be built into the base.  These will be lower on the hull but also designed to prevent rocking.  Supports may also be fitted before rigging.
 
Below is a picture of Naiad on her permanent base showing the supports used in this case.  the support is very solid.
 
Ed
 
 

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 5 – Mast Steps
 
As bulkheads and spacers are added, it is necessary to make provision for supporting the lower ends of the masts.  On the framed model these steps are fully detailed and visible through the view ports, but on this version they need only be simple, functional and strong.  The first picture shows the step of the main mast just aft of bulkhead 12 – looking forward.
 

 
The brass pin will fit a hole in the bottom of the mast.  The bulkhead has been cut out to provide clearance for the mast.  A reinforcing spacer can just be seen through the opening.  For strength, the plywood bulkheads on either side of each mast are  sandwiched between such reinforcements.  The next picture shows the reinforcing spacer glued to the plywood bulkhead aft of the foremast.
 

 
The step of the mizzen mast is shown below before being installed.
 

 
The holes for the brass pins need to be precisely located, hence the dividers.  The drawings show these locations at the height of the spacer blocks.  The pins are slightly raked – roughly matching the mast rake.
 
The next picture shows the bulkhead forward of the one above, with the reinforcing spacer in place.
 

 
The next picture shows the hull framing well advanced.  The squares clamped to the shipway are important.  They keep the hull plumbed to prevent twisting as new bulkheads are added.
 

 
The last picture shows the hull framed back to bulkhead 42.  At the ends, the central spine needs to be built up with additional tiers to form the deadwood as the hull narrows.
 

 
Also, in this picture, additional spacers have been inserted inside the outer ones to maintain a solid hull surface where the lines converge sharply at the stern.
 
The complex rounded stern will be constructed in the next part.
 
Ed

Ron, Michael, Bob,
 
Thank you much for checking in on Arethusa.  When I get home from work today I'll continue the log rebuild process.  I have some true progress to add once the build log has been reconstructed.
 
In rebuilding the log I've decided to not show many of my questions and re-do's...and there were many...as the lost text and MSW post exchanges are lost and the images would require additional effort.  I am always happy and willing to recount some aspect of Arethusa's build if any questions arise.
 
Cheers,

Ed,
 
I too find that a very clever and controlled approach to aligning and assembling the hull.  Very very nice.
 
Elia

Foredeck planking completed! Onto the main deck planking....
 

Finally a long overdue update. My KF got little attention lately as work and other (fun) projects got in the way.
 
I cut all the mortices for the carlings in the upper deck beams and started to make the first of the knee's and hanging knees. These are not one of my favourite parts to make and unfortunately every beam has a hanging knee. This is due to the heavy load on the deck with all the canons. I'll stick to my mantra and go step by step or part by part in this case
 

 

 

 

 

 
Remco

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 3 – Erecting Bulkhead Assemblies
 
In the full-framed version of the model, frames were plumbed then clamped in place using small wood spacer blocks or later, using ribbands at the planksheer.  For this model the bulkheads are glued to their neighbors using wood spacers.  The method is basically the same but requires a different clamping method.  The first picture shows the device used to clamp the bulkheads for gluing.
 

 
The two plywood rectangles fit loosely over the central spine.  They are drilled at the same level as the holes shown earlier in each bulkhead.  A long, loose-fitting threaded rod is used to tighten the glue joints as each new bulkhead is added and aligned.  The next picture shows bulkhead 2 being glued.
 

 
The squares are used to align the frame to the maximum breadth line on the shipway plan.  The nut on the threaded rod is then tightened to secure the glued joint.  The next picture shows more bulkheads added - one at a time.
 

 
And so on.
 

 
In the above picture the fairness of the deck “beams” is being checked with the metal rule.  If the notches over the spine are cut carefully, the line should be precisely fair.
 
The next picture is a close up of some bulkheads showing the excess spacer material that will need to be removed later.
 

 
Note that the station lines on the shipway plan align with the plywood bulkhead at its maximum breadth.  When the hull is faired by removing the excess and smoothing the line to over the plywood sections, the hull shape will be precise.
The last picture shows the framing of the forebody almost complete.
 

 
Note in this picture that the midship frame and another forward of that are held in alignment throughout this process by squares clamped to the shipway.    This prevents the hull shape from twisting as frames are added.
 
While building up to this point, a number of special attachments were made on some of the bulkheads for mast steps, reinforcements and hold down bolts.  I will show some of these in the next part.
 
Ed
 

And on to the foremast . . 120 parts before I shove it down the hole in the deck and begin to step it . . .  ho hum !
 
Work in progress obviously 
 

Just a quick update . . . will hopefully have a few more pics later

I started this build a few months ago and having just joined this forum/site wondered if anyone would be interested in the progress so far.
 
I'm guessing that I'm around 2/3rds the way though it but I would be more than happy to post the progress history from buying the kit on a well known auction site, tracking it across the USA, the Atlantic and the UK and trying, with problem eyes and fingers, to build this beautiful fishing/racing schooner.
 
 

John,
 
I have used Liquitex soft body acrylics on Arethusa. My white mix consists of a white base and trace amounts of Burnt Umber and Thalo Blue. And when I say trace amounts, particularly the blue, I mean really tiny amounts. The blue can very easily overwhelm the white....making it a sky blue in no time. When I painted my deck and rails I had custom mixed each of my colors. I have since learned that is easier to mix a gray color, such as the deck color, and then use that to tint the other colors. This gives a consistence of tone across all of the colors on the ship. Liquitex soft body paints, I find, are still too thick to yield a thin smooth coat of paint. They also exhibit a slight sheen or glossiness. I 'cut' my acrylics with Liquitex's Matte Medium. This thins the paint while maintaining to some degree the pigment (versus thinning with water). It also has the benefit of giving the paint a matte finish. It isn't dead flat, but it is better, to my eye, than the glossier stock acrylic paint. If I recall correctly I applied two coats of paint on the white surfaces.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

John,
 
I have used Liquitex soft body acrylics on Arethusa. My white mix consists of a white base and trace amounts of Burnt Umber and Thalo Blue. And when I say trace amounts, particularly the blue, I mean really tiny amounts. The blue can very easily overwhelm the white....making it a sky blue in no time. When I painted my deck and rails I had custom mixed each of my colors. I have since learned that is easier to mix a gray color, such as the deck color, and then use that to tint the other colors. This gives a consistence of tone across all of the colors on the ship. Liquitex soft body paints, I find, are still too thick to yield a thin smooth coat of paint. They also exhibit a slight sheen or glossiness. I 'cut' my acrylics with Liquitex's Matte Medium. This thins the paint while maintaining to some degree the pigment (versus thinning with water). It also has the benefit of giving the paint a matte finish. It isn't dead flat, but it is better, to my eye, than the glossier stock acrylic paint. If I recall correctly I applied two coats of paint on the white surfaces.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

John,
 
I have used Liquitex soft body acrylics on Arethusa. My white mix consists of a white base and trace amounts of Burnt Umber and Thalo Blue. And when I say trace amounts, particularly the blue, I mean really tiny amounts. The blue can very easily overwhelm the white....making it a sky blue in no time. When I painted my deck and rails I had custom mixed each of my colors. I have since learned that is easier to mix a gray color, such as the deck color, and then use that to tint the other colors. This gives a consistence of tone across all of the colors on the ship. Liquitex soft body paints, I find, are still too thick to yield a thin smooth coat of paint. They also exhibit a slight sheen or glossiness. I 'cut' my acrylics with Liquitex's Matte Medium. This thins the paint while maintaining to some degree the pigment (versus thinning with water). It also has the benefit of giving the paint a matte finish. It isn't dead flat, but it is better, to my eye, than the glossier stock acrylic paint. If I recall correctly I applied two coats of paint on the white surfaces.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

John,
 
I have used Liquitex soft body acrylics on Arethusa. My white mix consists of a white base and trace amounts of Burnt Umber and Thalo Blue. And when I say trace amounts, particularly the blue, I mean really tiny amounts. The blue can very easily overwhelm the white....making it a sky blue in no time. When I painted my deck and rails I had custom mixed each of my colors. I have since learned that is easier to mix a gray color, such as the deck color, and then use that to tint the other colors. This gives a consistence of tone across all of the colors on the ship. Liquitex soft body paints, I find, are still too thick to yield a thin smooth coat of paint. They also exhibit a slight sheen or glossiness. I 'cut' my acrylics with Liquitex's Matte Medium. This thins the paint while maintaining to some degree the pigment (versus thinning with water). It also has the benefit of giving the paint a matte finish. It isn't dead flat, but it is better, to my eye, than the glossier stock acrylic paint. If I recall correctly I applied two coats of paint on the white surfaces.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Patrick, Jay, Lawrence,
 
Thanks for the dory comments. And thanks to all of those who've "liked" my posts. Tonight I spent some time with putty filling in the small open faps between the planks. I'm not sure how either the mold material nor tbe casting resin flows and what width gap won't or will show up, so a little filler I think will help in the process and aid a good flow of the resin from the planks adjacent on the sides and to the stem and trasom. We shall see. Something I'm not certain of, either, is how thin I can make some of the little frame details and get resin flowing into them. With a little time this weekend i'll work on the molds.
 
Lawrence,
 
You are a dory building machine! I find when I'm making multiples of some item I fine tune my process as I progress and usually my first efforts aren't up to the quality or consistency of my later efforts. I think all your dories look very good and any of them will complement your fibe schooner model.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia