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paul ron

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  1. that'll work. in case you need to store overnight... at least you'll have a pair left. 🤭
  2. to store the pad while working, put some alcohol in an ash tray n sit the pad there between coats. to store the pad long term, a relish jar is the way to go.... short wide mouth easy to pick up the pad.
  3. find a door in the dumpster or get one at home depot for $60. you just need to build a base or just put it on a pair of horses. i like solid core doors over hollow ones, but either will do just fine.
  4. hopefully someone here has this saw and can measure the pullies for you? you can get them in hardware stores or machine shops. contact dremel. btw amazon is world wide too.
  5. i took a screenshot of the parts list i the manual... https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1003625/Dremel-580.html?page=15#google_vignette seems there are 2 pullies available. perhaps a call or email to dremel to get the part? https://www.dremel.com/us/en/service-and-support/customer-support-services another way to go is try to figure out the size of the pully by measuring the belt slack. you may also put a multi pully so you can slip the belt for a different speed. btw the blade speed in the specs is about 9000rpm. the motor runs at 10,000rpm.
  6. im not familiar with these small lathes. i do have experiance on metal lathes, comercial machines, and wood lathes. are you working metal? an oil drip pan under the lathe and an oil feeder may be worth looking into. do you intend to do threading? there are special toolings and accessories needed for that. perhaps asking others here for literature and check out you tube videos to see how to properly and safely use your tools. videos... https://duckduckgo.com/?q=taig+desktop+metal+lathe best thing to do is use it, follow instructions, get plenty of practice.
  7. its not unusual to diy mount a tool's motor using a hinge. the weight of the motor should be enough to tension the tool to the drive belt... if not, you can use bungies or other additional methods to tension the mount. there is no additional stresses to worry about as long as its all aligned properly.
  8. just stain whatever wood you are using to look like redish mahogony.
  9. i leave my strips in the toilet tank for a couple hours. they come out like wet noodles and bend very easily... in fact i can get smaller radiuses than pictured above. whatever floats ur boat...
  10. the rub ons are hard to find in typesets or sizes let alone color. ive had pretty good results with the water slide. the paper is semi transparent so i trace the lettering off the plans using pen n ink. it would be great to find the rub ons we need. im all for the easy way out whenever i can. i hope everyone posts their sources here?
  11. a pen torch would be more than adaquate for such a small piece. but it seems by the conversation here, color is more important than heat. yes, silver solder would be fine, but some of the color matching sugestions are like killing mosquetos with a hammer. at the scale and size of the piece, the weld would appear insignificant. an eopxy fix would be more than sufficient but it's just too simple a solution.
  12. you do realize there are brass low temp brazing rods available? https://www.amazon.com/GEOYLE-Brass-Brazing-Rods/dp/B0C7P15LC9?th=1
  13. do you have a link to where you got your rub on letters?
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