
paul ron
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Jack12477 reacted to a post in a topic: Did I ruin my brush?
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Did I ruin my brush?
paul ron replied to MBerg's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
ive never heard natural vs synthetic for certain paints. but capilary action will draw the paint up regardless of the fiber material. just be sure to clean your brushes well. i get nice Camel hair and synthetic brushes at michaels. they have sets in both fibers for about $12. https://www.michaels.com/shop/crafts-hobbies/craft-paint/brushes-accessories/craft-brush-sets https://www.amazon.com/s?k=michaels+paint+brushes&adgrpid=1339205740483960&hvadid=83700572733567&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=97622&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83700728525048%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=11120_13459965&mcid=4ad25eefbc323c52a5db562e9ed82ba3&msclkid=1e29a7fe935a10239ee6c0026f484d0a&tag=hydusmmsn-20&ref=pd_sl_17g2089ecz_e -
robert952 reacted to a post in a topic: Did I ruin my brush?
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paul ron started following interesting video on the cutty sark , Did I ruin my brush? , Anybody know how to attach this block to the gaff boom? (HM Sherbourne Vanguard) and 6 others
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Did I ruin my brush?
paul ron replied to MBerg's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
when using camel hair brushes, never let the paint dry on it, the brush should be rinsed in the solvent of the paint till needed again during that session. once the job is done, the brush gets thoroughly cleaned with the proper paint solvent, then wash the brushes with soap n hot water. the trick is not to allow the paint to accumulate in the ferrel to begin with. the build up is because the brush wasn't cleaned between uses over time. to salvage the brush at this point, use the paint stripper for that paint. wash and store. as noted before, leaving the dried paint in the ferrel in its current condition will not effect anything as long as the remaining portion of the hair is still pliable and clean, the ferrel is now sealed. -
paul ron reacted to a post in a topic: Did I ruin my brush?
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paul ron reacted to a post in a topic: Ancient Mediterranean Ships, Il Trabaccolo
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Vallejo plastic putty for wood models
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: False keel: Admiralty orders concerning coppering
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: False keel: Admiralty orders concerning coppering
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: False keel: Admiralty orders concerning coppering
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Hammock Storage
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Stuka reacted to a post in a topic: Anybody know how to attach this block to the gaff boom? (HM Sherbourne Vanguard)
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paul ron reacted to a post in a topic: workplace pics
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that $169 set https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/miniature-tools/101508-veritas-miniature-tool-sets is very nice. these tools seem to be of good quality according to the descriptions. A2 and PM V11 are common tool steels with a good track record. the tools look nicely finished too. another source... cruise their catalog for other supplies... stewmac luthier planes and fine mini tools https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/ibex-archtop-carving-planes?queryid=8ecf07bdbbe3df10cf4c044e7ff905ec
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im not doubting the information. i just feel summeries are someone's interpretation and condensed versions of whatever the subject, especially when the language is not contemporary. many terms and wordings have evolved and meanings have changed... eg the Bible, Shakespeare... im sure you get my drift. as for coopering keels n other details of construction, i have no problem accepting the information bona facia... you guys are the experts. but it would be interesting to see it in first hand. i dont think i have enough experiance to doubt anything, but exposure to this sort of documentation does build insight as one gets familiar with the terms of the day... and thus my reason for seeing the documents, not scepticism, curiosity. i close my eyes and imagin what those times may have been like... an outter body experiance in a sense. thanks for all the research you guys do... ive learned alot from following these discussions.
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paul ron reacted to a post in a topic: Where was the white stuff painted?
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paul ron reacted to a post in a topic: False keel: Admiralty orders concerning coppering
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paul ron reacted to a post in a topic: Vanda-Lay Micro Lathe
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aww its a shame they arent digitzed. id really love to see the originals of all of them. sometimes things get lost when translated or pulled out of context... someone's summery is as good as an opinion, not as a matter of fact. plus to see the manuscrips in the original hand is a real treat in itself. this is what i enjoy more than the models... it gives this hobby purpose n makes our models that much more special as i explain to my viewers what it represents instead of just "a nice ship Paul" n a pat on the back.
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paul ron reacted to a post in a topic: False keel: Admiralty orders concerning coppering
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paul ron reacted to a post in a topic: Hammock Storage
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my carpentry experiance, ive always used elmers wood putty. it doesnt shrink, its very easily sanded and holds to wood very well. as mentioned above, wide gaps should be fitted with wood as best as you can, then use the putty as a finish coat to seal smaller gaps. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Elmer-s-4-oz-Carpenter-s-Wood-Filler-155876/311643947
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did anyone think of asking the navy for the information since the Constitution is still a commisioned ship in service? its been restored and in their care so actual documentation and references would be best stored with them. the last time i walked the decks was the year prior to the most recent restoration. the tour guides were very well versed in her history. edit: i just sent a contact form to the navy and referenced this discussion. lets see if i get a reply anytime soon? contact form here... https://www.navy.mil/Resources/Contact-Us/ april edit... no reply from the navy.
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Fractal vise on kickstarter
paul ron replied to DavidG's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
pretty cool vise. but with so many available, its just making the wheel a bit rounder. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=micro+drill+press+vise&adgrpid=1332610568930946&hvadid=83288435234468&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=98071&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83289281303982%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=28529_14565773&mcid=0ddd5da5a26330c198dfc765e47d96a8&msclkid=81b0d0d827ca12a32b8db73d9f6cf554&tag=hydusmmsn-20&ref=pd_sl_1l5ih8o93t_e -
yes wet dry sand paper.... it comes in grits as fine as 5000 silicon carbide. you can also get fine papers at auto stores. https://www.amazon.com/LotFancy-Sandpaper-Assortment-Automotive-Polishing/dp/B08J46MW33/ref=asc_df_B08J46MW33?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80814196410705&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584413763136221&psc=1
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i use to oil paint and learned white comes in many different formulas. eg; zink white eventually takes on a bone color as it oxidizes. where titanium white will not change color over time. another factor is what you are painting over. if your primer changes tint over time, the color coat will change as the base color bleeds through. so paint selection for each coat is very important. also note the varnish over coat may be changing to a darker color as it ages, not the white changing at all. my suspicion says its your varnish overcoat. why do you need to varnish over the enamel? its not a weathering situation or protective coating... the enamel should be sufficient. as for primers... the reason for a primer on wood is to seal it from absorbing the paint so you can get an even color coat and help from raising the grain. just use thinned paint we call a **** coat. that hardens in the surface wood and allows you to sand off the fuzz. now the finish color coat will go on evenly. sometimes you may need extra prime coat and or color coats depending how porous the wood is.
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i really love clippers and that era of sailing is facinating. glad you enjoyed the video as much as i do.
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