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paul ron

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  1. there are models that replicate the actual ships, where details matter to keep it authentic to its period and style. this takes alot of historic research. you wont see shiny brass cannons and beautiful woodwork, sheething plates are weathered and ropes are rigged for work instead of neat bundles. some go as far as making beautiful diaramas of battles or sails set to weather, even ships under construction. some show cutaways of lower decks and stowage areas with cargo n men at work all accurate to the mm. then there are models that are considered craftsmen's ships. it doesnt have to be authentic to its period, not an accurate rendition; the builder took artistic licence for a particular look, such to show off the wood or brass or sail configurations... a demonstration of his artistic skills. then we have artistic representations of what the builder imagins his ship should look like. maybe using plans as a starter but with frills n ornaments that didnt exist at the time but they look great. what it comes down to, its up to you! its your work of art and the only one to please is you. we are craftsmen, we are artists and recreators of time and imagination, dreams of the past. you have stepped into the twilite zone.
  2. the last chapters has some manuvering techniques with drawings https://archive.org/details/apdfYoungSeaOfficersSheetAnchorFileSizeReduced/page/n140/mode/1up
  3. take a gear from a clock, mount it on a stick... pounce wheel.
  4. that'll work. in case you need to store overnight... at least you'll have a pair left. 🤭
  5. to store the pad while working, put some alcohol in an ash tray n sit the pad there between coats. to store the pad long term, a relish jar is the way to go.... short wide mouth easy to pick up the pad.
  6. find a door in the dumpster or get one at home depot for $60. you just need to build a base or just put it on a pair of horses. i like solid core doors over hollow ones, but either will do just fine.
  7. hopefully someone here has this saw and can measure the pullies for you? you can get them in hardware stores or machine shops. contact dremel. btw amazon is world wide too.
  8. i took a screenshot of the parts list i the manual... https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1003625/Dremel-580.html?page=15#google_vignette seems there are 2 pullies available. perhaps a call or email to dremel to get the part? https://www.dremel.com/us/en/service-and-support/customer-support-services another way to go is try to figure out the size of the pully by measuring the belt slack. you may also put a multi pully so you can slip the belt for a different speed. btw the blade speed in the specs is about 9000rpm. the motor runs at 10,000rpm.
  9. im not familiar with these small lathes. i do have experiance on metal lathes, comercial machines, and wood lathes. are you working metal? an oil drip pan under the lathe and an oil feeder may be worth looking into. do you intend to do threading? there are special toolings and accessories needed for that. perhaps asking others here for literature and check out you tube videos to see how to properly and safely use your tools. videos... https://duckduckgo.com/?q=taig+desktop+metal+lathe best thing to do is use it, follow instructions, get plenty of practice.
  10. its not unusual to diy mount a tool's motor using a hinge. the weight of the motor should be enough to tension the tool to the drive belt... if not, you can use bungies or other additional methods to tension the mount. there is no additional stresses to worry about as long as its all aligned properly.
  11. just stain whatever wood you are using to look like redish mahogony.
  12. i leave my strips in the toilet tank for a couple hours. they come out like wet noodles and bend very easily... in fact i can get smaller radiuses than pictured above. whatever floats ur boat...
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